Table Mountain Guide

Video of Landry Lushima's sick DWS send.

Sit start with BH on good edge. One big move up to shelf with bad feet. Climb straight up, just left of Legz Akimbo to TO.

Start as for R.V. move up and right, crossing over Legz Akimbo to TO.

Sit start with BH on jug under the roof. Move left using holds along the lip and then straight up to TO.

Landry Lushima

Stand start using pinch for LH and sidepull for RH. Straight up to TO.

Stand start using crimps on face, climb straight up to TO.

Stand start as for Babs Cabs, use sloper above obvious gaston.

Stand start as for Babs Cabs, then use obvious gaston.

Start on crimps, LH to diagonal crimp, match and move left under small roof to TO. Holds on right arete are off.

Start on crimps, LH to diagonal crimp, match and move left under small roof to TO.

Stand start , RH on small edge. Jump and LH to gaston of Curse of Karrit Poor. Straight up to TO.

Start on same crimps as for The Handbag but climb straight up to TO.

Beta Video

Video

Sit start on crimps, climb diagonally rightwards following crimps and then up to good edge to TO.

(Changing from 6B to 6C+) see 8a.nu

Beta Video

Start as for Herr Lipp, then move left to start of Papa Lazarou to TO.

Sitstart on the split crescent shaped boulder near the graffiti and do a tricky stand to the horizontal ledge. Traverse right all the way around the boulder, staying low and never using the top holds. Stay low on the slopey overhung finale using devious heel-hookery until the crux (last moves to pass the corner and exit on dark grey rock).

Start as for Done (or standstart) and traverse low, taking the first chance to escape and finding the easiest TO

Start as for Done (or standstart). Escape the traverse just before the roof and TO.

Start as for Done and climb straight through on the left of the roof after gaining the flat ledge standing up on the ramp

Sitstart and climb tending leftward to TO.

Sitstart and climb straight through

Route up and down.

Sitstart. Use low edges to start, gain slopers to TO.

Sitstart on edges and climb through the open book just before the big roof.

Sitstart using the undercling and bulge. Climb through and left of the flat roof just left of the grey pocket and TO.

Start as for Done and escape just before the heel-hook drama starts.

Sitstart below the final moves of Done. TO on Done.

stand start to right of grafiti

Sitstart on the mountain side, climb up the corner before moving right to the committing and exposed face.

Sitstart and climb the desperate zigzag seam with long reaches to awesome TO.

Sitstart, climbing up the seam until able to escape to the RH gaston jug and TO.

Matthew Hill

Sitstart on easy terrain low and to the left of the boulder. Follow the good seam and straight up to TO.

Sitstart on the good holds left of Schrodinger and traverse diagonally right, using the pocket over steep terrain. TO.

Landry Lushima

Landry Lushima

Sitstart on RH arête and climb through the big pocket. Tend left before the finishing straight up with a RF mantle.

Sitstart, climbing the left leaning arête to warmup.

Stand Start high left hand, low right hand and climb up the blunt arete.

Landry Lushima

Climb the technical slab left of the black streak.

SS under the overhang and move upwards using the finger slot to TO

SS under the overhang and move sideways to TO as for 3.

Stand start and climb up to TO.

Start as for The Prospector but traverse left and dyno to the lip from crimps just left of the arête.

Sit-start with arête and climb up.

Sit-start with LH on the arête and RH sidepulling the crack and slap up the arête and crack.

Sit-start with short rail and climb the crack feature.

sit start and move up on crimps to TO.

Sit-start on a ledge and climb the face / arête.

Stand start and climb the main face on small awkward holds (you probably won’t flash it).

Edit: Not sure about his one. It appears to be the stand start version of The Prospector which is 6c+.

Start as for The Executioner but continue traversing into the start of Huggy Bear.

Sit-start on a big ledge and climb straight up using a big ledge on the right.

Start as for The Berkolator and climb straight up the face to top-out up left without using a big ledge to right.

Sit-start on a ledge and climb the face / arête.

Sloper start with massive heel hook into sloper

Start left on the face with the arrow on it. Sit/crouch start on black horizontal rail. Move up to the central top end of the boulder without using the arete.

Sit start on the arete right of the arrow. Left hand on undercling, right hand on lower layaway. Bump right hand to better layaway then left hand to the top. Top out.

Climb the slab at the back of the boulder

Stand start left of Coheed. RH in slopey two-finger pocket, climb the slab. Large ledge just above the right is off

Stand-start with LH on a good incut grip and climb straight up the slab and jugs.

Stand-start with RH up on a good edge and head straight up.

Sit-start with LH on a good pocket, RH to a layaway pocket above and climb up.

Crouch-start in the left end of the big undercling and climb the shattered crack.

Start as for Aikona but traverse right along the big undercling and then up to a rail and further on to good grips and top-out.

Sit-start to Aikona.

Start with a high LH sidepull and climb straight up the face.

Sit-start and move right along a diagonal rail onto the slab.

Climb I Am to the lip, then traverse right keeping below the pocket jug until matching on a large sloper close to the arête and top-out.

Climb as for Pet Virus but finish up Got Viagra, Need Woman.

Sit-start on slopers and traverse left below the pocket jug to finish as for I Am.

Climb Pet Virus this time making use of the pocket jug in the middle of the block.

Sit-start with left hand on I Am's good edge and RH on an undercling pocket and move up to the pocket jug.

Sit-start with left hand on an undercling / sidepull and right hand on a good edge, move up to the lip and top-out left via slopers.

Start as for I Am move straight up to the lip and then top-out right using a pocket jug to the right.

Crouch start on slopers and mantle.

Climb Echoes of Time this time using the pocket jug.

Stand-start and climb the slab on the right.

Follow a left tending line up the face, and near the top move left and up a hand crack.

Straight up the centre of the face.

Incredibly steep, exposed and satisfying. The route is located at the northern end of the grassy ledge running across the west face about 20m above the base of the buttress (with the long caves). Where this ledge narrows, the route starts on the right side of an overhang over a rocky platform (that makes a great lunch spot and has super views).

From a block, pull up near a thin, left arching crack. Move up to a finger rail, then left to a narrow shelf. Continue up and left, passing some good holds to a handrail. Pull through to the next rail and traverse left to about 1m past a projecting prong. Climb the short, steep face to the ledge using excellent pockets. Consensus grading needed.

SS on good holds and mantle to TO.

SS in the bucket near the arete and move up the face on crimps (problem is to the L of 1 around the corner).

Stand start using the two-finger pocket and move up and to the L (beware of the unstable block above).

Stand start and climb upwards to TO on small holds.

Stand start and climb the face using the good rail to TO.

SS on the corner near 1 and move diagonally R to TO using the crimps and slopers.

SS in the thin crack and move up to the jug to TO.

SS with RH on sloper and LH in pocket. Move up the arete to TO. Boulder on the R is off route.

Start standing on the far left hand side arete using the opposing side pulls. Move up the arete and top-out.

Note: A stronger climber (with chalk!) could probably do it as a sit-start which makes it a grade or two harder. I also have no idea on the grading and it could be completely off. Advice would be welcome.

Sit start beneath two obvious flakey holds above you. Step up and into the sharp and super funky undercling, then reach way up to an odd edge with an option for a kind of thumbercling move. Top out.

Not at all sure of the grade!

Sit start, stick to the left and use the small slopers.

Stand start with high foot and climb the middle streak of this 5m tall granite slab.

Sit start on crimp rail and mantle up

Starts up the left side of the sharp fin (directly under the steep prow above) to a narrow ledge. Pull through the roof and move slightly right to a steep layback and then continue directly up the steep arete to the top. At the crux keep an eye out for a key two-finger pocket that is not immediately obvious. Consensus grading needed - probably 24 with the crux beta.

Climbs the face to the right of 'The Reckoning'. Start easily up to a layback flake system and then take a central line up the face with a short, wide vertical crack just before the top.

Hiking Approach:

Start from the Newlands Forestry Station by walking to the south to gain the steep jeep track only-just in Kirstenbosch Gardens. Hike up the track to gain the contour path at approximately 400m ASL. Turn right (to the north) on the contour path. Continue over a short section of wooden boardwalk. A short distance beyond, turn a left corner to encounter a jumbled scree slope of big boulders. The Fernwood Gully stream is a few metres further on. Hike up the streambed, including a section where the stream disappears underground, and go up leftwards to find the streambed again. Continue until the streambed ends in a dense jungle. Use a 15m tunnel up to the right to get through the jungle. Head up leftwards up steep slopes and then conglomerate boulders to then clear the forest. Traverse the steep slopes to the left to gain the streambed in the well-formed Fernwood Gully. Head up the gully and waterfalls, sometimes using the slopes to the right, for a long way until ending at the base of the enormous wall. Begin three pitches of gully climbing in the extreme left of the gorge by climbing through trees and then into the open gully. The third pitch finishes with a section of worrying looking decaying stone that can be climbed safely. Alternatively, it can be bypassed on the right by climbing up the gully. Traverse across to the big Graveyard Ledge on the left, 20m below the Long Thin Overhang.

Abseil Approach:

Take the cable car then hike to Maclear’s Beacon and then down Smuts’ Track towards Kirstenbosch. At the first big plateau 80m lower down one is level with the top of Wormhole Buttress and Fernwood Face. A 10m tall rocky outcrop is found to the left of the path. At this point leave the Smuts Track and follow vague paths towards the summit of Fernwood Buttress about 500m to the south-east. Immediately before heading uphill to the summit turn left into a shallow valley and walk down it into the pine forest. Bear left to arrive in a beautiful campsite under an overhanging rockface about 7m tall. In front of the campsite walk 15m downslope between the pines to arrive at the precipice. A metre or two above the lowest level is a little ledge on the left with a little rock promontory to its left. Hold on the good handholds to peer 30cm around the corner to encounter the top of the abseil route that goes all the way to the bottom of the cliff.

Abseil 1 50m:

The lead abseiler must descend with the rack and not much else. Abseil to the broken ledge 12m down. Keep to the north (Protea Buttress side) of the Rocky Tower and go over the edge of the grassy slope. Place a couple of directional pieces of gear to keep the line tending northwards to gain 3m in that direction on the descent, and to stay in on the mountain. Get to the lip of a huge roof underneath where a section of steel-grey rock meets white rock in a vertical line. Progressively place three directionals (small cams) below the roof to gain the big ledge four metres lower. Traverse easily to the next abseil point which is visible six metres along the ledge to the north. The lead abseiler must provide a ‘fireman’s belay’ to the second belayer who will remove the directionals and each time will ‘ping’ out into space. The second abseiler should use a locking abseil device like a Micro Jul or make use of a prussik. The second abseiler should have the haul-bag directly attached to the belay loop via a quickdraw.

Abseil 2 50m:

The lead abseiler must descend with the rack. This abseil does not do a diagonal, but as it is over-vertical, directionals are required. Abseil to the big ledge with the beautiful Rooi Els tree. The next abseil point is one metre from the tree. Most parties will spend a night on this very attractive ledge on the south (Muizenberg) side of the tree.

Abseil 3 60m:

The lead abseiler must place one or two directionals below the big roof halfway down so as to avoid being stranded a metre or two out in space at the next abseil point.

Abseil 4 50m:

The fourth abseil gets the team to the Graveyard Ledge. After passing the Long Thin Overhang either place directionals to the south to land on the Ledge (first abseiler to belay rope), alternatively, continue into the gully and then swing/scramble across the gap to get onto the Graveyard Ledge.

Start:

The route begins on the Graveyard Ledge approximately in the mid-point of the Long Thin Overhang at a small cairn. The route begins up a natural break approximately 15m from the Gully.

1. 25m 20:

   Climb the natural break and horizontal rails most of the way to the ledge, then rail out right for a few metres and then up to the ledge. Walk right to stance near the end of the ledge at a cairn.

2. 30m 22:

   Place important cams in the roof of the Long Thin Overhang before climbing around it to the right. Climb up to the next roof and then rail out left and around the corner for another six metres to an opportunity to stand. At this point one is back above the start of the route. Climb the crack for 10m and then do a slightly runout section to a small seated stance for one.

3. 15m 21:

   Climb up diagonally to the right to the obvious little three-finger pocket in the white wall. Step right and then go up to the ledge 4m above. Climb up diagonally to the right to regain a ledge at an abseil point.

4. 35m 22:

   Climb straight up to the rail and then go right for a couple of metres. Climb up the immaculate and sustained wall for 20m towards the big roofs, passing two ancient pitons while wending your way up. Climb diagonally up towards the left to intersect the band of highly-weathered rock. Continue diagonally up across the narrow, vegetated gully and continue in this direction for a few more metres to get to a comfortable little ledge with seating for one.

5. 35m 22:

   Climb the beautiful white and streaky wall diagonally up to the right for a few metres and then continue up black streaks on white rock until forced to step right across the void into a bottomless chimney. Continue up the chimney until able to regain the steep white wall on the left for the last six metres to the Rooi Els Ledge.

6. 30m 22:

   Climb up directly from the Rooi Els and continue straight up the break until forced to go out left for a couple of metres. Head up angling to the right and then traverse out right across a steep slab and then up to the right to gain a ledge.

7. 17m 21:

   Start a metre to the left of the arete and climb the bulging wall. Head up and then diagonally left to get to the ledge called Traverse of the Eagles (named by the 1966 party that opened Fernwood Precipice Direct) and a point on the abseil route.

8. 20m D:

   Traverse left under the huge roof until beyond it. Stance just before the start of the tan brown rock at the end.

9. 35m 23:

   Reverse a few metres along the Traverse of the Eagles and then climb the overhanging crack/knobbly break immediately adjacent to the huge roof. Do a tenuous traverse to the right across the steep and exposed slab for a metre-and-a-half (just above the lip of the huge roof) to gain a vertical break. Do very thin slab climbing for 5m to a rail. This section is protected by a Rock 1 or equivalent small wire. Do a footless fingertips rail to the right until able to stand around the corner. Climb up and leftwards for 3m to the small roof then move a metre left and climb the overhanging crack/knobbly break. Continue up for 6m to a roof and pull through it going slightly leftwards. Four metres higher traverse a metre or two to the right to gain a chimney. Climb the chimney to a grassy ledge. Scramble up to stance on top of the rocky tower on the left.

10. 15m 20:

    Move a couple of metres left, climb the corner and then the wall on the left and then finish up the bottomless chimney.

Climb up the right side of the arete to the crack for the finish

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this is a chipped route and will not be rebolted

No anchors

No anchors

Warnung Fels: No Anchors

Keep left of the arete on Poppies Route

Warnung Fels: No Anchors

Climbs the arete on the right end of the face

No lower-offs, rotten rock, top-out

Bolts have been removed, route is unmaintained

Bolts have been removed, route is unmaintained

Bolts have been removed, route is unmaintained

Start low and climb the arete

Goes strait up the arete then right

Starts on the small arete on the left of the boulder, begin with both hands on the hold. Once started continue to the small ledge and then to the top of the boulder. Mantle onto of the boulder to complete.

Start using both arete, TO.

Climb up the steps

Climb the face to the right of Unknown 2

Classic.

Starts right of 'Coin de Rocher' The start of the first pitch is a tad bold. Technically more like grade 22, but fairly intimidating. The second pitch also starts off in a fiesty manner.

1. Start from a block a few meters right of 'Coin de Rocher'. Pull onto the wall at a vague seam and up to a finger rail. Step left and then up via tricky moves to the roof. Traverse 2 to 3m right until able to pull through where the roof narrows. Step left and head up the steep face to the right slanted slots. Climb through these to the platform above.

2. From the stance head directly up a line of right side pulls until the angle eases. This is a few meters right of the 'Coin de Rocher' pitch. At the next ledge continue straight up the line of least resistance to the top of the crag.