Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs White Stack | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mithras | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. My wrist is getting worse rather than better, could barely undercling or jam and it hurt abseiling-off to the physio.
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Resurrection Shuffle | 30m | ★ Good | |||
The first half was fine, but a crack that stays wide blue for ever in the second half is my anti style and I’m not that interested in embracing the pain.
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Smokin' | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Saw the anchors on way down and did a quick TR lap. Would feel stout placing gear, quite bouldery.
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Low Starting Point) | ||||||
16 | ★★ Pneisses | 240m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Microtraxioned my way up as the third wheel. Nice enough day out.
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Harlequin | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rpt.
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22 | ★★★ Beaman's Route Direct | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.
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Fri 19th Jan 2024 - The You Yangs | ||||||
Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Blue Sky Thinking — 2 attempts | 25m, 4 | Average | |||
Ouch, rather sharp. These climbs were west facing but fortunately an overcast day. So nice not to be in a plus 20 dew point for a change!
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16 | ★ Blue Skies From Grey | 18m, 2 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Can't Buy a Thrill | 16m, 2 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Asylum for the Insane | 22m, 3 | Average | |||
A quick diversion while waiting for the ferry
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Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
15 | ★ Wide Horizon | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Original ascent solo, rpt today
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17 | ★ Cliff Limit | 11m | Average | |||
Rpt.
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Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Upper | ||||||
19 | ★★ Semi Retirement | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, exit.
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21 | ★★★ Fin Crack — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
My hand greased off one hold and unexpectedly slipped. Got back on and went through. The mantle up the top is seeming tougher than before.
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23 | ★★ Moby Dick | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to redeem myself for the slip on Fin crack
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Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Lower | ||||||
19 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★★ Cadbury Flake | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Houdini | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The good weather day between the rain. Suffering from post vax aches and pains, but better than laying on the couch.
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Tue 19th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
A couple more goes, feeling a lot better on the lower section and sorted the finish but still missing a solution to the crux as Daves bridge solution leaves me too low.
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Still baffled by a 2 m section. Getting some linkage. I think we need to work on presses.
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16 | ★★ Flake | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
finally back on this after a long time, not through want of trying. Quite greasy conditions today. Dave making much better progress
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Thu 14th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Snuggles and the Dragon | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
17 | ★ Little Frog | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Chapman's Hill | ||||||
The Towers | ||||||
10 | Orchid arete | 7m | ||||
Probably done off the top ropes a bit, it was fairly clean.
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
20 | ★ Opium | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
My left hand strayed towards the HS holds down low, as the right heel, lay off sloper to side pull felt more 25 for my height, and still tough up top. Not sure where the wires go, would be shallow placements in a flake I think- would be better with extra bolt and a second anchor bolt
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blackwall | ||||||
Red Head Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon | 10m | Average | |||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
20 | ★★ Colour Card | 16m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt.
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14 | ★★ I'd Rather be Canoeing | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, nice climbing, very spaced gear. I’ve done my due in past times
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17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, much nicer today after a bit of traffic. Probably should be 19
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10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Average | |||
Rpt
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10 | Marginal Existence | 7m | Average | |||
Done this a few times and the start is quite hard as is continuing up offwidth on lead. I will argue for upgrade. The start is at least a metre lower than the old days
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15 | Brand X | 13m | Don't Bother | |||
Some offwidth practice.
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Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
North Zenith Trade Wind Slabs | ||||||
17 | ★ Seam | 35m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
The seams not the hard bit
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16 | ★ Twin cracks | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Nice cracks
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17 | ★★ Huecos | 35m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
More nice slabbing
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Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
20 | Plum line | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 sits, better friction than last week. Worth it to get john Wilde back in the saddle
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13 | ★ Stopper (Direct) | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
21 | ★★ Profanity | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One slip in off fingers section
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19 | ★★ Bereska — 2 attempts | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt too tricky as the warm up, did it later in the day
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt to clean. 2 snakes visible but neither impacting the route. Required a few rests, was hot in the sun.
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
14 | ★ Hang in there Baby | 20m | Average | |||
Rpt, cleaning
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Space Ape Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Orangutang | 6m | Average | |||
Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
For a short climb this is full on. Gave it a good brush.
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10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Average | |||
10 | Marginal Existence | 7m | Average | |||
Chicken wings
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Fri 2nd Jun 2023 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Crater Bluff | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Cornerstone Rib | 190m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fond but sad memories from my previous ascent of this with Nick. Did it today from Blackmans camp with Dave and Jonty. The rocks average but the experience is great.
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Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Canyon Cliffs | ||||||
19 | ★★ Is This Love? | 35m | ★ Good | |||
There’s a big block to the left as you reach the ledge that looks like it’s ripe to plummet
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11 | ★ Prologue | 25m | ||||
Ushering up the grandson and then his first abseil
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
23 | ★★ Taipan Wall | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A couple of rests remembering the sequence post footer breakage
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21 | ★ Strapidbisectomy | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
15 | Adrenaline Wall | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★ Waynes Route | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
19 R | ★★ Garbage Blaster | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting out at least despite feeling poorly
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Thu 11th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Yep, shoulder unhappy laybacking.
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Thu 11th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bereska | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 in a parallel universe. Always requires thinking Mc the middle part has changed over the years
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Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Scout Wall | ||||||
15 | Dob Dob Dob | 11m | ||||
Did another couple of eliminates as well on this wall. Getting in before rain and iris moore way too spoogy
|
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16 | ★ Dib Dib Dib | 10m | Average | |||
15 | ★ Woggle | 10m | Average | |||
17 | ★★ V groove | 9m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Tea Bag | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Felt like it deserved a v grade. Steep for the short.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
21 | ★★ Wiggle It Just A Little Bit — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Really needs a bolt added, the cam placement can get quite sandy, hardest move of day at start
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rpt, always lovely
|
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18 | ★ Joslab | 23m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt, we thought we were about to get rained out. Tried the left variant finish as well.
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14 | ★★ Joseph | 46m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Transporter | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, enjoyable 3 d climbing, probably deserves anchors after all the trees burnt a few years back
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops North Face | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mis Led | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt on Clive’s rope.
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21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
I still can’t believe I led this 17 years ago. I must have been mad.
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14 | ★ Deep Water | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Soloed first time, led on gear this time, lots of small cams in horizontals
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9 | ★★ Short Shrift | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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10 | ★ Self-abuse | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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10 | ★★ Thanks for the Mammaries | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
18 | ★★ Juicy Rumours | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, another nice trad classic
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21 | ★★ Shades of Grey | 32m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Would need a bit of cleaning testing out the new anchors over burning spear.
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19 | ★★ Burning Spear | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, such a nice route
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Thu 6th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Don't Bother | |||
Rpt first pitch which is not too bad and worth doing but suggest abseil off tree. The loose blocks on P2 are still there and it was an unpleasant experience. P 3 ok. Going don’t bother because it’s a potentially dangerous route at present
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Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 | ★★ Dunes Direct | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I think Dave did variant on P2 left of the actual line at grade 16/17, it was cobwebbed and no chalk, but quite good.
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Thu 16th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
18 ~19 | ★ Interlude | 35m, 2 | ||||
The bottom crux felt 18. The top crux past the second bolt is scary for leader as invisible from ground above a ledge and at least a grade harder. Dave pointed to the good hold to top out. Definitely would not be physio approved…
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13 | ★★ Stalagmite | 36m | ★ Good | |||
Quite enjoyable
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11 | ★ Transylvania | 60m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Nice start and crux. Convenient anchors. Not sure the physio would approve, but she did say I could climb easy stuff…
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18 | ★ Subliminal Cut | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Apparently been on this before
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12 | ★ Josie's Climb | 50m | Average | |||
Lovely rock architecture, wasn’t really looking for pro but it appeared spaced.
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Wed 15th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 ~18 | ★★ Discord Direct | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty good varied climb but slippery in spots. Didn’t want to risk falling and reinjuring my back
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22 R | Friendless | 40m | Average | |||
Personal top rope grade 19, probably feels worse on lead. We did the start but finished through roof to right
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14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Nothing like some hot desert air and vertical quartzite to help the bad back and junky chest
|
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Fri 24th Feb 2023 - Mystery cliffs | ||||||
Zone 1 | ||||||
16 | Louisach | 25m | ||||
FFA
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Thu 23rd Feb 2023 - Sisters Beach | ||||||
Corruption Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Harzweg | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Felt sketchy in the spooge
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18 | ★ The Rapist — 2 attempts | 15m | Average | |||
If I knew this was my second last day climbing for 6 weeks I would have gone somewhere else. Awful spoogy conditions in the howling on shore
|
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Devils Gullet | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Salmonella Crack | 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Harder for me due to large hand size than DC. Spent the mid section with a hand in a cam hook configuration. The chimney felt like a relief!
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Fri 17th Feb 2023 - Devils Gullet | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Divine Comedy | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The pitch only. The hype is worth it, what a great crack. Nice size for girl hands, varied throughout, it just keeps going. Only downer was the increasing weight of the mega rack Dave used. Seems like it had been done yesterday, so maybe was cleaner than normal. Shame the top pitch isn’t clean, it actually looks like it would be good climbing. Comments from yesterdays ascent made me laugh. That may have been me before I learnt to hand jam…
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Mon 13th Feb 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Vamp Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★★ No Standing | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thanks to whomever put in the new anchors since I was last here. This I think is my favourite route in the gorge. Got here a bit late, and it was damn hot, so had a single go to reacquaint myself, with one slip on the lower part, then time to go packrafting the Gorge!
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19 | ★★ No Parking | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, excellent crack
|
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Shady Side Dammit Area | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Dammit — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well the start and end were good, suspect some rope assistance through the low crux and the upper one needed more work. Spent some time brushing someone else’s excessive chalk and tick marks- lest anyone think it was us, but it needs a good shower to clean it off. Will have to get fitter and return
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Tue 31st Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Icarus | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did the last 2 pitches in 3. Stopping at the notch seemed sensible. I led the last bit only which was not bad, but the crack below was good, though the chimney exit felt hard
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Mon 30th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Ultrasound | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I had to divert back into holiday after falling off the thin finger crux to make upward progress then moved right again. The stalactite feature was amazing but vibrates.
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Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Skidrow Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Skidrow | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Tricky crack size
|
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23 | ★ Short and Sweet | 8m | Average | |||
Painful and not appealing
|
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27 | Experimental Method — 2 attempts | 10m, 3 | ||||
Hadn’t really looked at guide. Great moves to a literal nails crux but I think I could do it, though I was doing a karate kick to the right after matching on the thin rail. Sticking the thin rail was the only move I didn’t do.
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17 | ★ Sitting Bull | 10m | ||||
Did the offwidth to left start because it looked cleaner. Thesarvo has it down as grade 11 which surely must be a typo
|