Ascents in Australia as trad by Vanessa Wills

Loose crunchy granite and one bolt, I value mylife. Interesting layaways in the middle, done in the rain

Really nice flake route, enjoyed it

Lovely technical stemming. I still think it looks dodgy to red point

A nice relaxing afternoon, without the need to place rps.

Definitely will come back for a lead. We were going to rap down and do top pitch of Fuhrer, but a commercial group had ropes down it, but this was a great alternative. Varied interesting climbing, great position, rather dirty, deserves more traffic.

Felt a bit intimidated rapping in, 100 m just makes it. Got a bonus dirt pitch to retrieve dave’s dropped crack glove. Led pitch 2 and most of 3. Did it in 3 pitches. Quite mossy at the crux and up the last bit of status quo. Waited to 3 pm to get on it to avoid the sun ( wise move). We were still parched at the top.

Spent an hour a decade ago trying to find this, another hour today and with darkness and a storm approaching we decided to just top rope it and get out.

Last pitch, our warm up. I went up slab to anchors to get into slabbing mode at about grade 20

Almost an offwidth for most of the way for me, but undervertical which made foot jams the way forward. Luxury with 4 #3s. A bit hot, an ice cream shop would be choice. One long pitch.

Hail Henry. I am not even close. I know I am going to have problems when Dave is stumped. Even the #9 didn’t save us, though it did help protect it.

Mostly positive holds

Felt easier than the corner due to nice size jambs

Felt quite thrutch, especially the exit

Not bad, airy exit

We neglected to cart our rack up the hill, but glad this remains a trad route

Tried the 26 and 24 pitches today. Seems possible but very technical. Right index finger hit by broken rock. Now I have 2 painful index fingers.

I am sure the crack is getting wider

Rpt, had to get out a stuck nut. Haven’t been on this for 4 years, dave probably hadn’t for a couple of decades, so he got to lead it all. Very humid day.

Climbed mostly with one hand. The swelling has gone down but I can’t afford to aggravate finger. Not quite the climbing holiday we planned, but spent a night on the porta ledge at lost world, which was cool, ran up this and on way to airport.

There are harder moves by a long way on Moss Ridge tree trunks. 3 day mission farm house creek return, summit in perfect weather from cutting camp and back there again on day 2. The scramble up is very easy but exposed once I stopped looking for climbing routes and started looking for cairns. Beautiful country with a light pack. Not sure I would lug a rack and rope in there. Will probably upgrade it to classic tomorrow with a good nights rest.

Not a bad route to start the year on. Crack gloves rule. It all felt quite crux to me with the odd calf pumping rest

Finally stopped falling off after the crux. Good conditions seeing it was 40 degrees at home. Notes to self- down climb after first 5 bits of gear, triple set C3s,, tape right hand, flag right foot at crux, right hand thumbs down at top of lower crack or won’t reach the next one. Team success!

Has some interest and variety of techniques, needs more brushing

Rpt ascents working out how to get the gear in when feeling maxed out. Beautiful Christmas Eve weather

Rpt, to change to camouflaged hangers ( left one original gold one on)

Rpt, changing bolt plates for hangers. Much nicer not leading when I can just enjoy the moves

Will be very good with a bit less dirt. Some tricky sections and wide stemming

A little easier than flake crack.

A bit surprised, now have to do it sticking in the gear. Nice conditions today.

The start of this is super hard. Didn’t have trad gear with us

Hard boulder start, stuffed it once, then did it without rack which I pulled up once in alcove. Nice and a bit easier from there

The crux is tough, at least as hard as the routes to the right. Couldn’t see the plant the climb is named after

Ok wide hands at top ( for me)

Some nice thoughtful moves and an easy roof to finish

Hard start if short, nice climbing after that

Hard rattle fingers. First attempt thwarted by pain/ ferns and ineptitude but got to top placing gear, a bit unclear how to get through the blank overlap in the middle. Did second go after taping index finger both hands and trying harder

She who hesitates.... oh well, clean second pitch 1,2 combined. Found the lower chimney more tricky. Got 5 good bits of gear on P 3 and then dithered thinking I should put in more when I had my feet in a good position to hit the victory finger lock. Then had 5 goes failing to get back to that position, dave went up and put in another cam, with a sit, then we both led it clean.Giles 25 to the left looks awesome.

Summer project I think. The bit between the 2 pockets is only 2 m long but may take a while, plus got to place gear....the rest of it is 21-24 so still interesting, 4 shots to top over last 2 days

I probably did get hauled up this in 2002, I certainly wouldn’t have jammed.

Only one move really, made insecure by the ferns

Quite liked the start

Finally got back to this. No trouble with my jam gloves on but the bolts for the belay up top are dodgy.

Rpt, impressed I insisted this, as the wide bit is tricky, rattly fists.

Rpt, nice crack, a bit troublesome to traverse to anchors, deserves its own and a bit of a hammer near top

Second P1,2 together with backpack to get out trying Johnny Dawes style ( no hands). Led P3. A single # 2 cam is all you need.

Just 45 m, last climb of the trip

These slabs all seem similar, but such beautiful rock

Obvious line that needed a little cleaning. Dave proposed 18 but it was quite steep. Big cams useful to half height. Climbs quite well.

Climbs ok, staying left is easier

Felt 19 to me, a bit daunting as couldn't reach above into crack to place gear to ease the crux nerves.

Nice water washed rock, yes start is run out though a grey C 3 fits right at the start

Now right under rap chains, climbs well and does have gear