Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

Start low on the arete and head up laybacking the arete and avoiding rocking over onto the easy slab.

Should be a king line.

Climb the flaring arete right of Bananagrams, okay holds, bad feet

Start low laybacking the arete with a good foot. magic your way up the arete and finish matching the small juggy ledge. FA up for grabs.

Stand start under roof on the right side with left hand in jam crack. Climb through the roof and up right side arrete

Stand start matched on the undercling in the back left side of the roof. pull through the roof to a good edge then finish up and right to top out.

Sit start on whatever holds are comfortable. huge through up to slopy crimp on the lip, match and head up through holds on the left.

Sit start the front of the left hand pinnacle is a very hard looking 30 degree overhanging finger crack. Hard to grade V6-V9?

Stand start project on the right of the boulder finishing as for Car Parks. Right hand on good hold, left hand on nothing good

Sit start with right hand on slopey arete, left hand low on bad crimps, harder than it looks

The right arete.

Sit start on good horn hold in the centre of the wall, make some big moves to mantle

unbolted face with DBB

Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris.

Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2.

Some tough moves between the breaks lead to a congealed conglomerate jug and from here it will scary to the top.

Climb Brandy but use the boulder on the left for feet

Low shouldery moves from the start holds of “fat Finger” into the start of “members only”. Continue up members only to the top.

start below "Overlooked" in the horizontal roof, then power into the cave through the roof, then finish up Filipenduluos

start below "Overlooked" in the horizontal roof, then power into the cave through the roof, then finish up Filipenduluos

"Either a two star v6 or a one star v7." Sit start, up the face on unlikely looking holds which all seem to face the wrong direction.

Right side of arete to DBB

Sit start at the left of the low face and finish at the top of arete.

To the left is a steeper harder feeling project. Getting off the ground might be the crux.

Start as for Reverse Mortgage but head right to finish on the bulgy arete, could be a scary finish above the slope.

Traverses the lip of The Great Roof for 40m. Why? Why not? Quite the adventure.

About as exposed as it gets, and blessed with stunning rock, and gymnastic moves. Hampered by an easy aid move at the start of each pitch, complex amounts of faff, and a somewhat sketchy second pitch.

Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, or climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).

1. 20m (26 M1) Traverse right to a bolt. Up arete and into corner until its possible to clip bolt on right side of corner. Aid off this to gain opposing holds on either side of blunt arete, and continue freeing for the rest of the pitch. Funky, exposed, gymnastic steep climbing, with as much down as up. Finish at Green Spandex belay.

2. 20m (27 M1 R) Climb the first 2 bolts of Green Spandex, then truck right following horizontal weakness. At 2nd new bolt (4th bolt total), clip and aid off bolt to gain reinforced jug further right. Then continue freeing along technical rising traverse until last bolt, then head directly up to gain 2 bolt belay.

NOTE: With Pitch 2, it's important to have a lot of slack in the system (aiming for 6-8m falls) in order to avoid both the roof below the headwall, and another series of roofs hidden below. Due to the fully hanging belay, its hard to effectively give slack, and throughout the crux the climber is hard to see. On the FA, the climber was fairly seriously injured hitting this low roof despite a seemingly clean fall.

To escape, rap using 2 x 60m ropes from the anchors at the end of P2. A pair of 60m dynamic ropes will just make it to the belay below P3 of Tomorrow's Dream with stretch. Be careful with rope length, and dont waste too much rope in the knot. From there, continue to rap down Tomorrow's Dream.

Line of bolts right of ITTL 18 draws with at least 10 60cm extenders recomended

The steep bolted line on the north face of the boulder. Good climbing with a thin technical and powerful crux

Undercling to offwidth. Originally given 27. Second ascent 15 years later downgraded to 25. Use the line of holds just right of bolts and preclip 2nd bolt. Start is now 22.

Stick clip high first bolt. A few thugy moves brings you to a sloppey ledge. Mantel then head left & up on good gear.

10 M left of BOOB is a broken slanting wide crack that leads to a short overhang. Turn this with difficulty to a vague rest on R and then climb the crystally seam that takes stonker gear. Step left at the top and grab the jug rail at the top of the cliff (crux). The big cracks take plenty of gear up to 4 and 5 camalots but surprisingly require no OW technique. The higher seam takes small cams and medium to small wires. DBB.

Climb past three bolt runners to the break, then finish up Snake Charmer.

Roof climbing in a similar vein to its companions to the left and right.

Access is via the Main Face rappels. Alternatively you can rap the route, but you’ll need to bring plenty of spare biners, as the belays are all double FH.

Note that you can’t French free a lot of the hard pitches, and the escape from the base is not pleasant.

1. 50m (27) 'The Drowning Pitch'

2. 20m (21)

3. 45m (24) 'Crazy Sex Pitch'

4. 45m (26) 'Balls in a Juicer Pitch'

5. 35m (23)

6. 15m (24)

7. 50m (25) 'The Golden Corner'

8. 30m (20)

9. 20m (20)

Up the steep face just to the right of the arete.

Currently closed pending Aboriginal Heritage assessment.

A boulder problem on a rope, but if you're into that or want to crank hard it's pretty fun. Start 1m right of Lazy Lob and instead of trending left and then back right head straight up to join the original just below the arete. It's a bit contrived but to get full value don't use any of the original holds on Lazy Lob. Grade needs to be confirmed.

Shares start with Symptom of the universe then moves right at 5m follows the thin seam

The central seam line. 7FH's + 2FH DBB

The thin crack with face holds left of the overhanging offwidth. Nice moves on good holds (about 22) lead to a ridiculously thin boulder problem finish and DBB.

Steep far left climb slightly up the hill

Climbs the arete + face around the corner of Fighting The Authorities without using any of the face holds of FTA

Same start as Songs of Innocence, but continue right where SoI moves left and follow the steep wall to the top.

An extension to Gethsemene. After clipping the anchors, continue up the severely overhanging arete above.

Climb “Bible Black” to first small overlap, then trend R into the top of Resurrection Sunday.

Technical line up the middle of the wall.

The hardest route so far at the crag, following a fantastic line up the face and through the big roof. Start at thin layback seam up the wall, then very thin and technical face/slab moves lead to a stance below the big roof. Stem through this, then traverse spectacularly up and left to a good rest below the final bulge. A cruxy boulder problem guards the anchors.

Starts at low bolt in the middle of the slab. 2 bolts to jugs at the top of the slab. a hard sequence past 4th bolt to gain the main crack in the cliff. Up and right via 2 bolts above the crack and trend right over a DBB to mantle on RH side of the cliff. DBB set back from the edge of the cliff.

The giant fridge.

The best climb on the crag, up the challenging seam, With good but fiddly gear, don’t be tempted to head out to the bolts on the face to the left!

To the right of the big corner crack on the left side of the cliff is a line of bolts up a faint weakness, beginning in a short corner with a finger crack. Nice climbing up the finger crack and face to the small overlap where the hard climbing begins. A series of powerful, awesome moves up to the anchors

Right of Isaac's Route. An utterly desperate boulder-problem start to easier climbing above.

The route on the left of the face rising leftwards out to the arete above the big roof. Start 10m down left of Supernaut and belay on the abseil chains on the slab. Up 4 bolts via the steep face (25) to stance at the base of the right trending hanging corner. Go left across the overhanging face (crux) out to the arete. Continue up the arete (23) for 5 bolts to join Supernaut. Continue up Supernaut for the last 8 bolts.

Powerful moves following an incipient diagonal crack on the 20 degree overhanging headwall above The Great Roof. The Belay is a fully-hanging stance on the very lip of the roof.

Getting to the climb is a big undertaking. From the top of Bare Rock, locate the rap-access anchors for the Easter Rising Face (about 50m right (looking out) of the Supernaut top anchor, tucked away among some scraggly bushes near the cliff edge (ignore another set of anchors in the open between the Supernaut anchors and the Easter Rising anchors - these are the top-out anchors for Master of Puppets)).

Fix a 60m rope, rap down and redirect the rap-rope off a single bolt (on McDonagh face), then rap down and right (looking in) aiming for a double U-bolt belay about 10m right of the direct rap line. Redirect the rap-rope again off these anchors, and rap down the overhanging headwall (clip into bolts on the way down, as the line is very steep, and diagonal) to the belay on the lip of the Great Roof. A 60m rope JUST reaches (tie a knot in the end).

Climb the Diagonal crack past 5 bolts to the anchors. Then Jumaar 40m back to the top.

1. 25, 30 m, bolted line 3 m right of Ride the Lightening original. Belay as for RTL original at chains.

2. 22, 15 m, step right and up from belay. Belay at chains on comfortable ledge.

3. 24, 30 m, thing slab up and right from belay, continuing up past dynamic harder section in the black steepening.

4. as for RTL.

5. as for RTL.

The line 5m right of Mornings Minion. Straight up the guts of the wall.

P1 - 30m (25/26) - Crimpy, technical and sustained face climbing up the black rock.

P2 - 15m (21) - Tricky and awkward. Caution getting to the 3rd bolt from the box groove. Tricky traverse right, then thin slabbing to the belay. Can be easily combined with the next pitch.

P3 - 35m (20) - Enjoyable slabbing with the moves getting more interesting in the latter half.

P4 - 20m (25) - The boulder problem pitch. Harder if you're short. Hard boulder between 2nd and 3rd bolt, then entertaining steep blocky climbing (gr22) to belay.

P5 - 30m (27) - Fingery, thin and hard to read. The thin orange streak leading into the black headwall.

P6 - 25m (4) - Junky, loose exit pitch... but only grade 4.

Descend by rapping the route as necessary, or walking down via the approach/descent gully on the righthand side (looking out) of the summit.

Alternate second pitch to Black Fire.

Climbs Amber Allure to the 6th bolt, then heads directly up the steep, thin face (where AA traverses left through the bulge) via punchy moves, the join Amber Allure just before it's top headwall.

Sustained excellent climbing.

Climb Vapour Trail then head far right via a steep boulder problem.

Harder than it looks.

Climbs the R-trending diagonal line on the orange shield. Crosses Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs then finishes at the same anchors.

Takes the wall between Redneck Love and Heaven Can Wait. The climb shares a few holds with Heaven Can Wait however the upper crux is completely independent. A midway rest (where a delicate no hander can be fashioned) keeps the grade sensible.

1. Sidle out right along ledge from start of Incipient and climb the flakes (natural gear) to double fixed hanger below.

2. Climb the flake feature and corner above, with crux moves pulling into the hanging corner four bolts from the top.

Starts 2m R of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route.

This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone L on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer.

The far LH side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish.

Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean.

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.

The awesome shallow corner to the right of the obvious choss ramp. Up this via. some very technical moves a bit uncharacteristic of the factory. Lower off the last bolt (with ring) in the corner for the 27. Exiting onto the slab is guarded by a hard boulder problem of around V8/V9 and is still a closed project. Finish up Balance of evil. A #2 camalot can be used before the first bolt but is not essential.

Writing up as is because the only other sport climb around this grade at the factory is Street Fighter so this is a welcome addition.

Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.

On the L side of the long wall L of Dumpster, climb via a desperate boulder problem start via 5 B to DBB.

Start as for 'Tribute', then swing left past a few more bolts up the face.

Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.

Obvious line through the small roof at 7m, pull around this on the left and trend diagonally leftwards to the base of the roof. Through this and mantle into the headwall above.

Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and following the break to finish up left hand side of the head wall. Classic power endurance route with a heart breaking last move.

An excellent climb starting in the steep alcove just right of Caligula. Up this to the ledge then blast up the steep face past some small holds to a pumpy traverse right on slopers. Finish up the last section of Hercules.

Start as for firewall but head left and up the sustained headwall.

Climb gambit but at second last bolt head left via. a big move for a slightly easier finish.

Where the track meets the cliff, up the left side of the overhang. Starting left of the first bolt, come back right and blast up the short, thin arete.

Start up Event Horizon but continue straight up through a very steep groove. From a cramped rest swing out madly over the hard final roof. 7 bolts to a lower off.

Start on the left side of the main face and climb a thin seam up, then right, to pass the small roof at the left end of the ledge that cuts across the cliff. Ascend a nice groove to increasingly desperate climbing on the lovely headwall, 17 U bolts.

Garry’s hard RHV to pitch 4 if TGB. All bolts (10-12 on the pitch). Amazing climbing on excellent golden dolerite with some fantastic tricky sequences in the last half.