Routes in Europe for selected grade

Comparte gran parte del recorrido con su vecino "Gran Guggenheim".

Shares a large part of the route with its neighbor "Gran Guggenheim".

#SD Video.

Hardest boulder of Tenerife! Video first ascent. Video first ascent 0:50.

A roof full of small crimps.

The "inverse" line of "Parálisis Espástica".

A combination of 'Seta ibérica' and 'Circo ibérico'.

Same finish as Entropía.

A "hard and beautiful" king line test piece put up by Chris Sharma. Originally graded 9b+, J. Schubert has suggested it could be a hard 9a+. Felipe seemed to confirm the 9b grade.

Ascents:

• Chris Sharma - 7 March 2015
• Jakob Schubert - 2 December 2018
• Felipe Camargo - 18 April 2019

FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

Direct start of Estado Critico.

Repeats by Stefano Ghisolfi (13/01/2018) and Daniel Woods (25/02/2018).

Repeats by Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi.

As Iker Pou describes it: "a perfect roof, well not quite perfect, because it even descends, about 20 meters long across a series of pockets. A authentic ‘fiesta’ of monodoits and two-finger pockets across a roof that is scary just to look at." The climbing is obviously ferocious and extremely physical: "Very few footholds, and those that exist are very bad so you have to constantly dyno them from one pocket to the next."

To the second anchor of "The Journey".

A combination of "The Journey" and "Café Colombia".

A left finish to "Café Colombia".

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
• Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

• Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
• Adam Ondra
• Jakob Schubert
• Sachi Amma
• Piotr Schab

Same start and same end as "Mercenaris del Passat". There is also a variant with a different finish, equipped by Chris Sharma.

First repeat by Adam Ondra, Feb-2016

An alternative start to to La Fabela but with the same first anchor (where there is also a good rest). The second part is the same as "La Fabela pa la Enmienda", linked it is called Catxasa R2.

Rubén Díaz Torres vimeo.com

#sitstart

Kemena “es un bloque explosivo de fuerza de dedos, pasos físicos y tensión corporal; empieza con seis pasos 'fáciles' para cambiar el ritmo con cuatro pasos duros y terminar con un mantle 'fácil'”, describe Rubén Díaz.

Kemena significa "valor" o "valentía", en euskera

Rubén Díaz Torres vimeo.com

#sitstart

"El bloque en sí podemos desglosarlo como 3 movimientos de 8A o 8A+, seguidos de 3 movimientos de 8B, para luego hacer un 7C+ algo psicológico." (Alberto Rocasolano)

#sitstart

Alberto Rocasolano on vimeo.com

El bloque más duro de Galicia? Repeticiones?

#traverse

Initially graded as 9A but downgraded by Jorge Díaz-Rullo to 8C.

Beto Rocasolano youtube

The hardest known boulder problem in Zaralejo, Spain. The V15 Rating is only for the boulder when using the low start.

Airian begins in the Arroita block and ends at the top of "Hay que Masticar Antes de Tragar".

https://www.klatterforbundet.se/2022/03/29/kjugekull-carl-nilsask-satter-upp-sveriges-forsta-8c-boulder/?fbclid=IwAR24Rwr_REG_qHnkKz-qQ2V6RMEYwtixG0Fid_hDVoN_i71CfpC8OnehlHM

Video-Beta: https://youtu.be/00spoNb8c6U

A combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. Maybe one of the hardest slabs in the world.

Startet auf Medialomania, Ausstieg via Bloc à Robi.

#SD

#sd #rl

Extension to the left and top of "Never Ending Story". Also climbed on rope as 8c+.

#sd #rlr

#sd #rl

#sd #rl

#expo

#rl

#rlr

#sd start with 'In search of time lost' and end in 'From darkness to sunshine'

#sd

The line is right behind Dinos don't Dynos and near Rythmo. Initially graded 8C but downgraded to 8B+ by Tim Reuser in 2021.

A direct start to the Power of Now.

#sd, #lr; Along underclings to "Rythmo Brachial"

#sd #rlrl

The #sd of 'Muttertag'

#sd