Routes as sport in Oceania

Start as for Requiem, then straight up to anchor.

Start as for Sack of Woe, then left to very steep prow. Joins the last moves of Up Jumped the Devil.

The original line of the crag. Same start as ITP then straight up into hard boulder and top of Xena,

Similar to Phantom Machismo, but upon reaching the 'one jug' feature above the pigeon perch on Hung Like Elvis, go up and left, then back right to the flat ledge at the 9th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that line.

The most mega of the mega Cave linkups. Start as for Super Glue, cross Rubble and Gorilla Grip, then drop down to the good jug on Troglodyte. Continue up and right as for Phantom to the sloper jug on Kaz's. Soldier on past nearly every route in the cave, angling up and right to finally finish at the top of Space Boy.

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Australia's first 35 (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Ascents

• Alex Megos - 18 August 2013
• Wiz Fineron - 14 May 2019
• Ben Cossey

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

No sure if it goes. Start The Seam and stay in the it all the way. Two more bolts allow to link directly to the upper wall of Spoonman.

Extension to Moses.

Start up Xerxes, then straight up to join Hey Zues.

Start up Rua Tahi but ever right through steep crux.

Pitch above Euphrates.

Climb Kaz's project to the rest at the 8th bolt, then traverse hard right to the flat ledge at the 9th bolt of Bogus. Finish as for that route.

Same as for Hydroplaning, but upon latching the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, follow the line of bolts angling up and right to finish as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser.

Similar to Phantom Menace, but traverses one level lower. After reaching the 3rd bolt of Gorilla Grip, head right but instead of going up to the good rest at the penultimate bolt of Kaz's, traverse straight right to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route.

The steep overhanging arete and prow. start up the hound boulder then continue up to a difficult boulder working from one arete to the other. will be the hardest climb in the N.I one day.

Bouldery start on tiny slopers and a shallow hueco. Once over the lip do Friction Addictions

Was Vince's project, eventually sent by Tom O'Halloran. Jump start off the boulder and then up up and away forever, topping the cliff to finish. Vince climbed it to the first anchors above the lip and called that Spacecake (30).

Rad rock, hard moves then the crux!! pull from a tiny crimp and its in the bag! Up Motor Pussy to 3rd bolt (??) then head right.

Climb Mr Squiggle, then just before the anchor head left into steepness to the top of the crag. Tom

Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right to vague prow and all the way up up up to the top roof. The boulder in the roof is a tricky one, finishing with an all points off dyno a loooong way above the ground. Finishes out on the highest, furthest out part of the cliff. All time!

Stopping at the hands free rest under the roof is an insanely good 33.

Climb Sitting Bull to the final break. Up a few moves then start heading right past bolt to come into Bandula crux. Finish as for Bandula. Lots of moves, no rest! Tom

Beta Vinyl into Tiger Cat. All the cruxes and no rest, outrageous! Grade unconfirmed.

Yet another impressive send by Alex, giving it hard 34. Shared start with Astral Traveller. Head up to small ledge and straight up with increasing difficulty.

Great fun. Climbs up to 1 move before Einfinger.... crux and busts out right to finish up old open projects.

The greatness of life is impossible to realise before you cast your eyes upon this, the route of all routes. At the time of completion it was the hardest route in the country and the hardest climbed by an Australian. Up Fantastic Mr Fox and without dangling about on the rest, bust up and into a thin crux until you reach Grey Area's rest, shake out here then finish up Grey Area and climb to the top of the cliff.

Boulderyness to top of cliff, anchors over lip up high and left past the "lonely virgin" finger lock.

Start: double dyno off cool slopes on boulder wall.

Variation to Mr Pink.

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece.

Daniel

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".

This route was previously known as The Sean Myles Project and bolted in around '92 by its English namesake. Like a woody problem on classic Arapilisian bums through a steep wall to finish up crimpy headwall. Start at base of roof left of Aristocrat (clip the 3 dynas with single biners for ease of climbing, and to keep rope away from holds). Slappy compression leads to base of seam. Clip bolt at lip and head straight up via pulls between edges and last bolt to easy finish and single bolt lower-off.

Start Attack mode but go direct.

The alternate unethical approach to https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/sutherland/route/13097509

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Liam Buckman

Extension to Hercules. Continue straight up through roof.

Extension of Hercules, left of Xena.

Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left all the way to the Bogus Machismo anchor. A massive linkup of the entire right side of the Cave!

Start as for Space Boy, but upon reaching the pod at the 5th bolt, instead of angling right continue straight up to the Underworld anchors.

Starts at the line of bolts just left of the start of Space Boy. Climb up and right into the pod at the 5th bolt on Space Boy and finish up this line.

Start as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser, but instead of trending left climb straight up through the hanging slab and the prominent undercling, to finish as for Kaiser Soze.

Starts immediately left of Bogus. Climb straight up to the first kneebar of Bogus at its 5th bolt, then finish as for Bogus.

Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch. From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left to a horizontal crack feature level with the 8th bolt of Kaz's. From here, traverse left to link into and finish as for Kaz's.

Start up Troglodyte. At its 3rd draw, traverse right all the way to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route.

Same as for the Phantom, but at the good rest near the top of Kaz's, continue right to the flat ledge at the penultimate bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route.

A striking line up the blank, overhanging shield. Easy climbing leads to a powerful crux with multiple options, all of which are hard. Followed by a few pump cruxes high above the hard moves.

Scartrek-Diplomacy link then Stugang Ext gaston crux into The Wormhole Search.

Climb 'Astrobatics', then keep girdling to the right across Mr Meeseeks until you end up at the end of Desperado. The longest and hardest route in the cave.

All the moves had been done but no one was able to take care of this one until a climber from Scotland, Robbie Phillips visited Queensland. He sent the route on his last day in the country thereby establishing Queensland's current hardest Sport route.

Bouldery start trending left on line of weakness, before joining into BTHTF at the bolt below the headwall (ignore bolts out right which need to be removed).

Robbie re-named "Taking Care of Business Project" to "Haggisaurus Rex" due to the Dinosaur skin-like nature of the rock and the fact that Robbie only ate Haggis the whole time he was in Australia to maintain his Scottish Highlander Powers! Rumour has it they shipped 70 whole Haggis' to Australia just for Robbie..."

Start off the pile of rocks above the ledge, 15m L of Chimp Chowder. Boulder problem start, to rightward traverse, then radical wall of exciting gymnastic moves lead to a feisty finish, classic!

As for Brain Haemorrhage for about 12m, then trend L up the biggest baddest steepest part of this sector, finishing a couple of metres R of Bloodline. Going left into Bloodline is not on route. Do not climb into Bloodline at all.

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33. A 6m direct variant of Tripe, squeezed in between Don't Believe and Tripe. Ben Tom Jake

The chalk at the start says 32, but the guidebook says 33. Batman start. Use rollers/extenders and skip the 5th or 6th bolt, so that rope drag doesn't make the crux easier!

Start: up levitation then move leftwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

The left hand line in this feisty little cave. Campus the start and thrutch up to the single U-bolt anchor. Good times.

Direct finish to Touch and Go - a total one move wonder. An old open project sent by Chris Webb. Anchor is one good ringbolt and one old dynabolt.

Pooferator into Truckstop into Horseshoe into Fabricator.

4m right of Up Jumped the Devil. Climbs straight up. Nowhere to hide on this. One of the best bouldery routes in the mountains. New sequence makes it a bit easier than the FA beta.

The right hand line in the 'second' cave. Awesome climbing thru a great roof to an extremely hard boulder at the lip. Good 27'ish to the lip, * . Bolted on lead by Macca and Dave. 2 metres leftt of Activation on buttress directly above where the track meets the crag Up wall to the roof, out roof, up headwall and right then thru top roof to point then jump. Excellent climbing through roof.

Steep, Hard, bloody awesome 4 metres right of Who'd be a cop project. Very hard climbing thru steep territory, many a strong lad had a crack before Chris got the tick.

Originally bolted by Rowan Druce and generously offered to the masses, Tom O'Halloran, seeing a classic on offer, was quick to pounce. Start as per Brummel Hook (also possible to start up 1st 2 bolts of Tiger Snatch), then head straight up the immaculate orange stone to finish on the high black head wall. Slightly easier than Tiger Cat (opinions are divided on this...) and originally given 32, but has now seen an upgrade. Andrea , Ryan

Tiger Snatch to the jump then head right into Kitten Mittens for the drive by move. Finish up Tiger Vinyl. A classic!

Starts 5m right of Tiger Cat and is feisty straight off the deck with some brilliant and brutal bouldering. Suck in some oxygen at halfway then head up to join Love Cats at its crux, following this to where LC and TS trend back left. Instead peel off rightward under roof to motor up the headwall. Hoik your rig left and right while trying not to feel like a flag in a stiff wind. Sitting Bull joins into the same headwall finish. Stu

Tiger Cat to the half way jugs then across right and finish as for Beta Vinyl. The Don't Believe the Hype of Elphinstone.

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker! Stu Monique Jorge flash

Start: As for 'Some Kind of Bliss', then traverse a loooooong way before weaving up the wall above. A mission.

"The Ticklish Dog". At times a link-up is better than both halves and this recent addition proves this. An absolute classic. Climb Dogbite to the bottom of the slab then go left via a fantastic boulder problem to the marginal rest on Mr Tickle, squeeze this for all it's worth then to the top of this route.

To avoid entirely stealing/climbing what was Ben's project (FMF), a variant was done in which all of the business of Ben's project is climbed. Hence the name.

Ever imagined what the best route in the cosmos would be like?...wonder no longer and get yourself down to DF today! The most technical, fingery, tensiony, positiony, brain flaking hard route around. There is no route better.

Was for four years the hardest route in the country. A classic Miller route, involving a fine balance of power and precision.

Tucker Time is sooooo rad. A technical boulder problem on the face down low leads to a massive rest you can bury bodies in, then truckin' on upward is another little punch followed by the crux of Super Duper Goo and finish with the best roof climbing known to man. Skip the last two bolts in the roof, get a little slack and take the cleanest 20m fall you've ever had.

Tucker Time.

No under dogs here. Shares a similar style to its neighbour Rhythm & Stealth. A lovely start up Impossible Princess leads directly into the wall above, past the Rhythm Method anchors and trending rightward and becoming rather tricky. Finishes on the same anchors as Rhythm & Stealth.

He says he cant but its the belief he can.

Start up Cheese Monster past the first crux. At the break climb right, past the crux of "Non-Dairy Cheese-Like Substitute". At the break under the roof, head straight out past slopes and edges (V9) and finish with a big move to the break. Awesomely sustained climb, vision and bolts by Robbie Le Breton, climbed by Vince Day.

Route renamed on request of Vince Day in 2020.

Lee Cossey

Tom O'Halloran

One of the hardest routes in 'Victoria'. A sustained full frontal assault on the highest part of the cave.

Start: Start just R of DF.

Just another incredible looking line on Taipan. It's the orange streak directly above Snake Flake's anchor, climbed in a single pitch from the ground.

An extension to Groovy, this was briefly the hardest route on the wall and may be the best. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted (despite a dubious retrobolt by Dave Graham ... which lasted about 5 seconds after he left) up the black streak to a lower off. Can seep. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was attempted by a who's who of Australian hard-men over 7 years before Ben's success.

Ben Cossey FA of Groove Train https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU

The visionary black streaks and water grooves about 5-8m R of Naja. The joke used to be that Steve Monks "marked his turf" at the top of Naja after every shot; it looks like perhaps Lee did too! Start as for Naja. Up Naja for 2 or 3 bolts then traverse right via an obvious undercling flake a few metres above the low roof. Use long (2m) extenders for this section. Now follow the incredible grooves, ignore the half-height anchor, and continue up via amazing sustained climbing on slopey edges to the top of the wall in one single mega pitch. Rap anchor (55m).

Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid

Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. At least two repeats, Chris Lindner in 2009 and Byam Keil in 2023.

Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym.