Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Easy lines on the slanted left wall. Some choss still but most of the obvious lines have been done..

Well featured low wall with warm up options. Sit starts etc.

Well featured boulder with a lot of warm ups all over - various sitters etc probably ranging from VB-V2ish

Sit start with both hands and feet on the arete, lay back your way up to top corner of arete then trend left not using the top of the boulder until you pass the ‘disconnected’ bloc then top out to finish.

Climb up the crack

Climb up the jugs

Small line up obvious features on the left side of the downside of Crèche boulder.

How do I delete this route???

A fun 100m long traverse in an incredible location.

Start at the entry of the obvious deep ravine, climb 2m up the RHS arete and keep traversing right, keeping 1 to 2.5m high all the way to the manky end of the wall, going through some interesting overhanging moves.

The rock is crumbling in places on the surface so look for big holds.

The right hand side of the face with the sandy base. V0 for the sit start else VB.

A small wall with an easy warm up climb.

Easy stuff on the wall behind ‘Bites Back’.

Sit start with obvious horn jug that looks dodgy but somehow hasn't broken yet!

10m R of Arrow, there is a nice little line the follows a groove/crack up the rock. Up the crack and around a block and then up and R following the line. It would take some gear. Probably a scramble off R. Possibly hasn't been climbed before.

10m R of Beyond, there is a fairly obvious blocky weakness with grass growing out of it (looks like it would take gear). It is not marked with letters, but there is a very, very faint arrow pointing up. Looks like it would be okay if it wasn't vegetated. 25+m?

Grade: VM

Grade: VM

CCH15 VM

Quality alpine scramble doable in a day from Mt Cook Villiage. NZ mountaineering grade 3, approximately Ewbanks Grade 8. Competent parties may be able to solo but a rope and some trad gear should probably be carried. Start either:

• Scrambling up the scrub to the right of the buttress until gaining the ridge.
• Direct up the buttress (approx 18/19)
• following a stream on lookers left of the Buttress until it joins the route higher up.

See here for where the climb starts.

Aid crack to bolt, right to crack, aid again then to ledge. 2&3).Wall and scrub. This may have been freed!!!

Start: 25m right of IO.

Top rope only. A nice climb to show people what fun climbs is.

Climb the easy groove directly below the bomb launch spot, stepping right (crux) at the top.

Very easy good for a warm up to harder things. Get a feel for the rock an rope work

Quick scramble from the top of Corner cutter and Robbers nest.

Broken wall R of main cliff.

Easy climbing on great rock. Follow the crack line up starting on the platform just above sea level. Solo first ascent, but appears that there would be good gear for a trad lead.

This stinky corner is home to lots of live bugs, dead bugs. dead seagulls, live grandma's handbags, dead grandma's handbags and God knows what else. Climb it if you feel like punishing yourself.

Start: The obvious corner where the Red Face meets the overhanging Blue Face.

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

1. Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake to 2 bolt anchor.

2. Abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Squeeze through the slot to rubble ledge and big spike.

4. 55m The Stegosaurus Pitch! Great fun. Place minimal pro on this to avoid drag, your primarily protecting the second, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney.

Halfway between Just Right and Smooth Sailing is a thin crack. Up this and the proceeding juggy staircase above which ends on a small pillar. Step right above the void and belay/abseil from the anchor on smooth sailing. Quite a good ramble.

the obvious line to get out of the water, reach the top of the rocks and continue to the main area

The down climb access route. -S0

The first route you arrive at when walking in from the north. Chimney.

Very left hand climb on the crag. Up the obvious gully. Some loose rock.

The sister crack, 3m R of TW. 1) 43m Up slab on R to ledge above chockstone. Up and though 'overhang', following crack up to a small stance. 2) 40m Step R and up slab to ridge, following this up L to a small white corner. Up corner, then R to belay

Start at shattered groove, 2m R of prominent crack R of Genesis's slab. 1) 13m Groove to the junction with the crack at overhang. Traverse L to belay on bushy ledge. 2) 44m Slab above, moving L when the holds start to thin. Up groove on R, to easier ground below the obvious hanging block. Up corner-crack to the top

1. 12m As for Evolution.

2. 27m From R hand end of ledge, climb crack until it is possible to move into gully to the L. Grade unknown.

Obvious chimney splitting the centre of slab R of OS. 1) 12m Crack to ledge. 2) 26m Chimney to top.

A vegetated scramble through history - bring your whipper-snipper? Vegetated crack just R of gully R of Diakon. Up through tree to below second tree which avoided on its L. Return to crack and up to bush which is also avoided on its L. When the line breaks into two, follow the obvious corner to the top.

Chimney Boulder problem

Obvious laid back black wall with numerous horizontal breaks. Climb straight up just about anywhere, following lines of good holds and mega pro (small SLCDs). A “sustained grade 8”, good for beginners.

The pretty corner on the right of the recessed wall. Pity there isn’t a hundred metres of it!

Start a metre or so L of the obvious corner on the right of the recessed wall. Up and slightly L via the square-cut notch at the top.

Start up the left most wide crack before the Walk the plank ledge, Gain the arete and scramble up to the top.

Also starts as for Solo Orange but move up R to gain the obvious flake system.

Start as for Solo Orange, then the wall between Passiona and Solo Lemon. Move L around overhang, taking note that it consists of suspended avalanche debris.

Well, it had some beer cans in it at least. Up the squeeze chimney between the two rocks and out the back. FA was solo, it's quite hard to fall out, but would possibly take some very large cams (BD 5 or 6?). May be a bit harder and more interesting if the loose chock-stones were cleaned out of the chimney

Small jump to get to base of climb, move up left past flake and single carrot to top out. Use a sling on lower flake for additional protection.