Ascents as sport by Dave Burt

Dropped the onsight on the last move! Really cool crux.

Amazing! Misty morning could just make out the top of the pillar as we rapped in. 1st rap 60m rope, to 1st set of anchors, need to move slightly left as you rap or you could miss them. 2nd rap 70m. Both left as fixed lines. We trailed the 70m as we climbed.

Great climbing, especially P1 and P2, engaging and unique. A few foot holds pinged off and one hand hold at the start of p2 (Ethan said it still goes fine though). Pretty happy to insight p2, blew the onsight on the boulder problem but went fine once I worked at the beta.

We had planned on the Tyrolean traverse, but seems silly given it is a decently steep traverse + the rigging time? So we pulled the trailed rope as tight as possible through our grigris, and used the climbing rope to lower out to the main wall then jugged. Saw a few carrots and bolts on the jug out, there was a lot of space between them.

Could never claim the on-site because I had seen someone's beta for the third pitch in the comments section, nevertheless thrilled to get the 3rd pitch clean first go and my goodness it's a fantastic pitch of climbing! Worth the some what intimating abseil exposure.

Finally made my peace with pitch 6 from 10 years ago when I bailed on leading and had to get my buddy to do it. The top pitches are fun jugalugalugging.

Great jams down low, love plugging cams.

Got there in the end. Fantastic top section.

First 24 in a looong time. Cool crux moves.

So good!

It was a trek out! Wish we had bikes. Cool location. First pitch was wet so we dogged the first move. Pitch two was the money pitch and quiet good, but I punted the beta on my first go going round the arete. Top pitch is pretty average. Take bike. Well done equipping the route. Stars for location and the 2nd pitch.

I remember hearing my voice quiver with fear going over the roof as I told my belayer 'clipping', more from exposure I'm sure 😁 then the actual climbing.

Thanks dudes! Even on top rope the traverse was exhilarating. A great addition to the area.

Felt more like 19-20 then 21. No attempt to disguise the glue/epoxy. It's nice to have easier routes to climb, but the it's not great climbing.

Great to finally climb after years of longing. 3rd pitch was excellent.

Went third shot. Great climb!

Pumped out towards the top. Nice crimpy face climbing.

Great position, mostly face climbing on jugs a soft 20. Had to go out to the aretend, exciting!

Nice climbing with lots of bolts. Top pitch best of the three.

Cool features nice rooflet Good bolting thanks for clearing some of the sharp rock

Can run p1 and p2 together. P2 is great definitely not 21 is easier then purple pocket pincer puller, jugs. Cheers bolters. Did not do P3.

A nice easy addition to the area.

Nice climbing on interesting features. Could do with a few more bolts to encourage those whom grade 18 is their limit.

Just p1 maybe the best line at Fangatave great climb a must do. Cheers bolters.

P1 apart from the jumbly first few meters a great pitch of climbing, apparently I went the direct way instead of the blind faith way and almost fell but hard a fantastic time. P2 was f*@#%&+ hard but nice rock and moves. Cheers bolters.

I was fortunity enough to find and bolt this line + do the FA, its a bit slabby at the top which is a nice change in style for Fa wall. Thanks rock gods!

Cool final sequence!

Well bolted, pumpy pocket section.

Nice pulling through the roof.

Good route, holds a little dirty but will clean with traffic.

Nice climb good holds interesting moves, a bit more face climbly then some of the others.

Nice to have some cruzy routes.

Nice to have some cruzy routes.

Nice pumping class climbing on tufas.

First route we did. P2 has some nice sections, almost whipped and was very glad to get to the anchors. The rope drag on this can be horrendous you need to take at least 4 slings for p2. Also be very careful lowering of the p2 anchors, it is slightly overhung and you can easily end up hanging in space, prusiks are must.

Great start, fourth bolt move good rest is a bit average

fun

took a fall approaching the infamous 3rd clip and narrowly missed losing my head on the little rooflet. another time another time

Pretty great route. Cool first p1. Interesting hangers on p2...that chain was a bit scary... great slabbing though. Ashame about the moss worth receiving more traffic. Accessed via rapping down main face swinging left to anchors of slow twitch - re thread (massive rope drag needs two to haul).