Ascents as sport by Sasha having Distinct route

Went up to try to link ground through crux. Did it and surprised myself by climbing to 5th bolt and taking before the big move before the sideways jugs rest, a really encouraging high point. 😃 connies were also 👌 today.

Forgot what I did on the first half and spent half the session re-learning it. Refined top half beta. Everything is static, guess I’m not a shortarse?

Still so good. Low crux felt easier. High crux felt harder. Start roof boulder felt the same (nails 😅)

Could not do start boulder 2 years ago. Could do it now 😀

Yay! Almost blew it by clipping the last bolt before anchor rather than skipping it: instant pump x1000.

Second shot. So cool and techy. Anchor clip beta: meatwrap hold on flake with RH, high left foot and flag right or find a far right footer. Super stable, no jug needed

Crux is big bump from pocket to jug between 1st and 2nd bolt. Then pumpy until the anchor. Easy to fall looking for anchor clipping jug (there isn’t one!) and peeling off greasy mossy slopers instead.

Like a reverse boulder problem: start with sketchy slabby mantle topout, then climb a steep one mover.

Easy until suddenly it isn’t.

This is indeed a cute slab.

With a name like this, it was fitting for me to eventually climb this route. Need good headgame for getting to the second bolt calmly. Then a nice techy crux higher up

Had definitely tried this years ago but day-flashed it (is day-flash still a thing or have the ethics police come for that term?). At the time I thought the crux was hard for the grade… it probably is.

Cruxy slab. Either crimp hard or find a way to stand up

I can’t heel hook for shit so had to do some alternate beta.

So stoked I can finally stop queuing up for this thing. Even more stoked that the shoulder isn’t complaining much (having an intact labrum is aid 😎)

Forearms in actual pain at the anchor.

Thought I’d struggle on opening boulder but that went pretty easily. Spent a long time on the big move between jugs straight off the ledge (god do I suck at roofs!) because I tried to use the chalked up non-hold instead of just throwing hard for the good stuff. Then a similar amount of time at the crux where you really do need to use some bad holds. Loved the easier section leading into the crux. Looking forward to getting back on.

Second shot after an exploratory lap. Thought I was too tired to link crux from ground but surprised myself.

Burly start, nice techy crimpy crux, big moves to good holds in between. Really enjoyable climbing!

No idea what to do above 1st bolt. There’s 3 sidepulls a meter apart all in the same direction. I would need beta spoonfeeding to have any chance 😋

Coming back for the send after messing up the onsight earlier this year. Pretty much all good holds all the way (rare for a mountains grade 20 or above to contain no crimps) but a tad brawny and very pumpy

First RP go after one exploratory lap to be sure of my beta. I definitely screamed through a couple of the crimps at the top anyway, because I could not find any rest after the crux. Cool climb, this wall has some really good rock!

Second shot. Found it impossible to get established on this without getting mud on my shoes. Had my belayer Gabriele G clean my toes with a t-shirt while I held the slot on the send go (aid?). Also now have to wash my rope and rope bag thanks to working this route. But the techy crux is cool.

2nd go, messed up beta and had to do a move harder than the crux right before the crux because I am an idiot

Got stuck with the wrong hand on the right ripple and couldn’t move on flash go. Second shot - nice flowy gently overhanging face climbing, all good holds no heinous crimping required.

Not sure if kosher, but claiming the flash even though I had climbed its right neighbours before with the shared start. Less sustained than either MP or RD but a bit of power needed at crux.

Second shot, fell at crux on flash attempt, which I guess is better than falling before the crux! This climbs like a human routesetter set it: a rest right before the crux, a big lock off move after just to screw with your nerves, and an actual giant victory bucket to clip the anchor from. I liked it, I guess, except for the two-finger crux crimp.

Harder today (more humid?) but got a pretty repeatable sequence leading into and including the last hard move off the white LH crimp. On the other hand the sequence before that on the sidepulls feels quite hard still.

I am quite confused from the pancake jug onwards. Have pulled into multiple random positions on the sidepulls but never figured out a way to get to the landing jug. Think if I knew the (a?) beta I could at least work on that, but as it stands it’s quite cryptic to me.

The boulder crux down low is cool (took me a while to get it - high RF to gain glass slimper is crucial, then keep raising feet until you can stand up into LH undercling). The headwall is also awesome - finally crimps, my comfort zone. But god what a pumpfest the stuff in the middle

Made it to what I assume is the crux (one bolt from top at the underclings, where orange rock ends and black rock begins). No idea what to do there but may have just been tired and hot. Will come back

Got it my first ever RP go. Guess I worked the shit out of the individual pieces and sequences on previous sessions. For me the hardest part of the crux is the early bit, moving into and then off the flake to get to the first crimp. Super stoked to tick this bad boy.

Really good climbing

Hard where it looks like it’ll be hard. Thinness to overcome bulge after break

If you have no skin left, this is the route for you. Zero friction on everything after the 3rd bolt. Embarassing how much I had to fight for this send 😅