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Ascents as Onsight by David Gibbs

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 308 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lone star
5.6 Easy Highball Trad 12m Don't Bother
Gear isn't the most confidence inspiring, but I don't think the climbing is harder than 5.5.

 
Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Calabogie
Wabun Lake Lake Cliff aka Ant Hill
5.9 Juicy Ass Trad 22m Good
Fun chimney climbing to a touch finish. Gear is generally good, though I had to do a bit of gardening for a placement at one point.

Might be 5.8+ if clean.

 
5.6 ~5.5 Detour Trad 22m Good
Dirty, like all almost all the trad routes.

Wasn't 5.6, though, but probably harder than 5.4, so likely 5.5.

 
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Calabogie
Lake Cliff Right Side
5.6 Marcus' Route Trad 20m Very Good
If not for the bird shit, would get an extra *.

 
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Manuels
German Face
5.5 (wandering trad line) Trad 30m Good
An enjoyable trad ramble.

 
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Manuels
Baby Face
5.7 Hard (left-leaning crack) Trad 10m Good
Takes decent gear. More engaging than I expected looking at it from the ground -- negotiating the way the right side of the crack leans out over the face makes it feel a lot steeper than it actually is.

 
Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Flatrock
Main Face
5.7 PG13 Arms Race Trad 20m
5.6 ~5.6 Noggin' Trad 25m
Solid gear and good stances all the time. No harder than 5.6, I'd say.

 
Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Swift Current
Tiger Slabs
5.6 ~5.5 Tiger Woods Trad 21m Very Good
Fun little trade route, with generally good gear. Was told 5.7 (and that local trad grades were stiff), so kept placing gear in case things got hard, but they never did. Probably 5.5, but I'll leave it with the 5.6 down-grade on here.

 
5.10c ~5.10b Served By Destiny Trad 18m Very Good
A lot of fun to TR. Looks like it probably takes good gear, too, but that might cost some holds, unclear. I haven't done a leaning crack like this, with toe-hooking, in ages.

5.10c seems very soft, I don't climb 5.10c anymore, and got this clean. Felt more like 10b.

 
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lone star
5.3 Mécanique non-autorisé Trad 12m Good
First protection is a touch high, but fall isn't too intimidating.

 
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Red Rock: Pet Wall
Main Wall The Laboratory
5.5 ~5.7 The Mute Mixed trad 20m, 3 Very Good
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Paroi Laurin - La Macaza
5.6 Hard Le Couloir Trad 18m Good
Quite dirty, which detracted from the experience, if cleaned up, I think would deserve a second star.

 
5.8 Easy Salut Québec Mixed trad 19m, 5 Good
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Lone star
5.6 Easy Pile poil Mixed trad 10m, 2 Don't Bother
5.5 Hard La vieille Mixed trad 10m, 1 Average
5.8 ~5.7 Métaphysique de Descartes Mixed trad 20m, 3 Average
5.6 No Pain, No Gain Trad 16m Very Good
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Mont Ste-Marie
Rock Area
5.7 Hard Parnoosh Paradox Mixed trad 12m, 1 Good
5.9 Easy Brown Bomber Trad 23m Classic
Others had trouble at different parts of this, but I found it easy going (for 5.9) the whole way.

I need to lead this on my next visit.

 
Sat 27th May 2023 - Lone star
5.9 ~5.8 4 à 6 Trad 20m Very Good
It might be size dependent, but I'm not sure this is 5.9, or if it is, it is only to pull onto the rock, and once you're established the rest isn't.

 
5.6 Easy Haute en couleur Trad 20m Very Good
Perhaps the best route at the crag - and an all-Tricam lead.

 
5.6 La voie normale Trad 24m Very Good
5.7 Rencontre au sommet Trad 28m Good
Thin/PG at the start.

 
5.5 Trois fois rien Trad 26m Very Good
5.5 La quatre voies Trad 20m Very Good
Also a bit PG/runout in places, but not at the grade.

 
5.8 Sans mes varappes Trad 20m Good
Thin at the start and the gear is a bit PG.

 
5.4 Gourgandine Trad 20m Good
Nice warm-up.

 
Sat 20th May 2023 - Bolton
Upper West Upper Tier
5.8 Ledangier Trad 34m Classic
Sat 20th May 2023 - Bolton
Upper West Lower Tier
5.8 Erica's Ass Crack Trad 18m Very Good
5.8 The Bookend Trad 18m Very Good
Some technical climbing, at times above thin gear.

 
Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Mont Ste-Marie
Rock Area
Parnoosh Peach Trad 12m Very Good
Hand-jamming goodness; but steep.

 
Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Rocher du Capitaine
Les voies
5.9 Relampago Trad Very Good
5.9 DragonFly Mixed trad 2 Very Good
5.8 Zenith Trad Good
5.8 Variante Relampago Trad Very Good
Since I'd already climbed Relampago, instead of finishing up the crack, I finished directly up. Probably a 5.9 finish.

 
5.7 La Centrale Trad Good
5.5 Menhir’ai pas en Ukraine Trad Good
5.6 Petit Stuart Trad Very Good
Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Saint-Alph
Hestia
5.7 Hellboy Trad 20m Very Good
5.7 Mycologie Grecque Trad 15m Good
Sat 30th Jul 2022 - La montagne du Tranchant
Secteur du Centre
5.7 Météorites (Météorites P1)
1 5.7 25m
Trad 25m Very Good
The steep corner that is the second half of this pitch is excellent climbing, and takes good gear.

 
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Montagne d'Argent
La Vallée Perdue (center left)
5.6 5.6 G (zig-zag cracks) Trad 15m Good
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Montagne d'Argent
La Vallée Perdue (Farthest Left)
5.6 (groove and crack) Mixed trad 22m, 4 Good
Good climbing to the first anchor; slab would have been more interesting if left with just the first bolt for the transfer to the cracks.

 
Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Panorama - Bowman
Mur Cathédrale
5.7 Metal Cheetah strikes again Trad Very Good
Fun trad climb -- worth the couple minutes walk over. There was good gear everywhere I wanted it. Maybe a bit soft in the grade, too.

 
Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Panorama - Bowman
Mur de l'Université
5.9 Chasseur de primes Mixed trad 9 Good
Did it as pure sport -- just committed to the run-out at the finger-crack near the end. Would be far more comfortable with a piece in the crack.

 
Sun 8th May 2022 - Mont Ste-Marie
Rock Area
5.8 Furry Tractor Trad 10m Very Good
Good gear and good climbing.

 
5.8 5.8 PG Harvard Trad Good
Borrowed and place a #6 on this. But, probably ok with a #4, then smaller gear at the back of the ledge, rather than the #6 in the wide crack.

 
Mon 26th Jul 2021 - Calabogie
Calabogie Main Cliff North End
5.3 Crack and Jugs Trad 12m
In sandals

 
Sat 1st May 2021 - Lac Sam
Left Wing Main Cliff
5.6 You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover Trad 28m Good
It was an adventure.

Some of it was wet -- dunno if overnight rain, or still seeping from the winter melt. And, it felt like winter may have washed some more dirt and grit onto the climb, too. Gear was... interesting... but usually there when you wanted it. (Except, maybe, the crux.)

It didn't feel like 5.6 on lead... but I climbed it again on TR and... ok... stiff 5.6.

 
Tue 27th Apr 2021 - Calabogie
Calabogie Main Cliff North End
5.4 Nameless Trad 18m Average
This was a fun trad adventure, even anchored on a tree at the end!

Hard to judge quality... if cleaned up, would like rate good->very good, but currently really dirty, mossy, and with some loose blocks.

 
Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Calabogie
Calabogie Main Cliff North End
5.2 Another Stroll Trad 13m Very Good
Takes good gear.

 
5.6 (Another trad route) Trad 13m Good
Harder and with not as good gear compare to "Another Stroll".

 
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Lac Sam
Lower Cliff
5.7 Good Intentions Trad 22m Good
Was planning to re-climb Stairway to Hell, but after pulling the initial section, instead of heading right, I spotted a lovely hand-crack to the left, so I decided to head up to it and climb it. I had...

And the road to hell is paved with...

 
Thu 3rd Sep 2020 - West Kootenays
Castlegar Kinnaird Bluffs Whirlwind Wall
5.7 Invisible Crack Trad 15m Very Good
The WKRG update describes this as a "gear-eating crack" -- but it isn't my idea of a such. To me, that means, anywhere you stop, you've got at least a couple good placements within easy reach. Not so on this. The gear isn't bad... but it isn't "gear-eating crack" quality of good.

 
Thu 3rd Sep 2020 - West Kootenays
Castlegar Kinnaird Bluffs Yellow Sling Wall
5.4 Exfoliation Trad 25m Very Good
Nice climbing up exfoliating flakes and slabs above the ledge.

 
5.5 Broken Corner Trad 27m Classic
Good gear and good climbing throughout.

 
5.9 5.8 Fine Line Mixed trad 27m, 2 Classic
Tue 1st Sep 2020 - West Kootenays
Castlegar Kinnaird Bluffs Polished Wall
5.6 5.7 Son of a Birch Trad 18m Good
Far easier than "Reluctant Gardner". I' not sure it is harder than 5.5 -- but I might call it 5.6 for one move.

 
5.7 Reluctant Gardner Trad 20m Very Good
This is NOT the same 5.7 trad climbing as "Son of a Birch".

 
Mon 31st Aug 2020 - West Kootenays
Slocan Valley Slocan Bluffs Roadside
5.7 Sahara Trad 30m Classic
Getting off the ledge and established in the corner crack was an interesting challenge. Takes good gear once at the crack.

 
5.6 Sunny Side Up Trad 20m Good
Early gear is a bit iffy, but otherwise pretty good.

 
Tue 4th Aug 2020 - La montagne du Tranchant
Secteur du Centre
5.5 Babylone/Bagdad Trad 15m Very Good
5.6 Requiem pour un Camionneur Mixed trad 31m, 1 Very Good
It was still a bit to quite wet in places from the rain -- so dirty, too. But quite climbable.

 
Sun 6th Oct 2019 - Weir
Adagio
5.8 (Crack in the Corner) Trad 40m Very Good
Lead P1, followed P2.

 
Thu 5th Sep 2019 - Banff
Tunnel Mountain
5.8 Gooseberry Trad 250m Very Good
Lead all the pitches -- lots of fun climbing.

 
Sun 21st Apr 2019 - Shawangunks
The Trapps The Uberfall
5.4 Short Job (Short Job P1)
1 5.4 130 ft
Trad 40m Good
5.3 5.3 PG 69 Trad 15m Good
Sat 18th Aug 2018 - Salt Lake City
Big Cottonwood Canyon Strone Crag
5.8 Starstruck Trad 67m Very Good
Gear wasn't as good as on "Outside Corner".

 
Sat 18th Aug 2018 - Salt Lake City
Big Cottonwood Canyon JHCOB wall
5.7 Outside Corner Trad 91m Classic
Tue 7th Aug 2018 - Laramie
Vedauwoo Nautilus Northwest End
5.5 Cornelius Trad 40m Good
Mon 6th Aug 2018 - Laramie
Vedauwoo West Central Walt's Wall Area
5.7 Edward's Crack Trad 60m Classic
Followed P1, lead P2.

 
5.4 Walt's Wall Route Mixed trad 76m, 2 Very Good
Lead P1 & P3, followed P2.

 
Tue 31st Jul 2018 - Devils Tower National Monument
South Face
5.8 5.7 Durrance Trad 200m Classic
Swung pitches, starting with p1. (Nobody lead meadows traverse.)

Lovely enjoyable -- but get on it early to avoid the crowds.

 
Thu 26th Jul 2018 - Needles
The Cathedral Spires
5.3 Spire Two, East Face
1 5.3
2
Trad Classic
Linked P1 and P2. Then had to retreat due to incoming thunderstorm -- pouring rain and hail by the time we'd finish rappelling.

 
Sat 21st Jul 2018 - Whitehorse Ledge
The Slabs
5.7 5.7 II Wedge Trad Good
Lead all pitches except 3, 6, 9.

 
Tue 26th Jun 2018 - Eagle's Nest
Main Cliff
5.5 5.9 Lichen It Mixed trad 55m, 4 Very Good
The opening slab, until just past the first bolt is nothing like 5.5 (at least 5.8, maybe 5.9). After that, everything was reasonable for a slightly-stiff 5.5.

 
5.6 Perspective Trad 40m Classic
Excellent climbing, though wide in places. I got to place a couple big tri-cams, a C4 #4, and a Camalot #5.

 
Sun 17th Jun 2018 - Calabogie
Calabogie Main Cliff The Far End
5.6 5.6 G Addition to Tradition ((unknown trad route)) Trad 20m
A lovely traverse with great gear the whole way.

 
Mon 21st May 2018 - Val-David
Mont Césaire Valse
5.6 La Valse Trad 40m Very Good
First pitch is 3***, second pitch is meh.

 
Mon 21st May 2018 - Val-David
Mont Césaire Chico
5.7 Muchacho Trad 23m Good
Mon 21st May 2018 - Val-David
Mont Césaire L'Arabesque
5.6 5.4 La Grande Envolée (La Grand Envolee) Trad 60m Very Good
Start was wet, so climbed right of it, making the start a bit harder.

 
5.5 Sortie Lavallée (Sortie Lavallee) Mixed trad 20m, 4 Good
Sun 20th May 2018 - La montagne du Tranchant
Secteur du Centre
5.6 Mésopotamie Mixed trad 18m, 3 Very Good
Mostly easy blocky climbing, but one thinner (5.6) section. Takes gear well.

 
Mon 26th Mar 2018 - Red Rock
Oak Creek Canyon Solar Slab Area
5.3 Solar Slab Gully Trad 150m Very Good
Fun at the grade.

 
Sun 1st Oct 2017 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan
Secteur les Escaliers
5.8 Le Diedre Trad 25m Classic
Just an absolutely excellent climb. Great gear throughout, many interesting problems, but, assuming you have the climbing vocabulary, never harder than 5.8.

 
Sat 16th Sep 2017 - Alice Roadside
5.6 Easy Way Up Trad 7m Good
Soaking wet slab at the start -- but ok once established on the climb.

 
Tue 5th Sep 2017 - Squamish
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall
5.7 Klahanie Crack Trad 30m Classic
Lovely easy crack up the slab.

 
5.10a Split Decision Mixed trad 30m, 4
Easier than I expected.

 
5.8 Skywalker Mixed trad 140m, 6 Classic
Mon 4th Sep 2017 - Squamish
Murrin Park Baldwin Crack Area
5.6 Beginner's Luck Trad 20m Good
Mon 4th Sep 2017 - Squamish
Murrin Park Bog Wall
5.8 5.9 Up From the Bog Trad 18m Good
Stiff for its grade, and getting polished.

 
Mon 4th Sep 2017 - Squamish
Murrin Park Lakeside-in-the-Woods & Commonwealth
5.8 Smells Like Fir Trad 15m Average
Felt harder than "Tastes Like Chicken", the 5.9 to the right of it.

 
5.8 Stihl Cleaning Trad Very Good
Mon 4th Sep 2017 - Squamish
Murrin Park Valley of the Lost Tribe
5.8 50 Lashes With a Wet Noodle Trad 15m Good
Mixed up the finish.

 
5.7 Top Ramen Trad 8m Average
5.6 All You Can Eat Pasta Buffet Trad 15m Average
Mixed up the finish.

 
Sat 2nd Sep 2017 - Squamish
Murrin Park Lakeside-in-the-Woods & Commonwealth
5.9 Ancient Squamish Secret Trad 25m Very Good
Thin crack in the upper face was easier than it looked from the ground -- bonus horizontals.

 
5.8 Partners in Grime Trad 22m Good
5.9 Tastes Like Chicken Trad 15m Good

Showing 1 - 100 out of 308 ascents.