Routes in Central Tablelands for selected grade

Start with the obvious right hand, with left hand on a chip under the roof, layback and make you’re way directly up to the blob.

Sit start as the arete, but move to the right across the face to top out the Italian stallion. Probably harder than the arete (I done did that) but likely to be soft at v5. This area has been climbed for a long time so not taking the fa. edit if you know the history.

A mostly trad route up a series of corners (some cracked, some fused). Bring your A Grade stemming ability for the crux pitch. Rack - wires, singles of #0.3-0.5 camalots & doubles of #0.75-#4. Rock quality on this route is big grain and sometimes dirty - take care. All belays are bolted. Approach - rap anchors are located halfway along the crawl section with the fixed rope. Either fix a 70m rope, and rap down to top of pitch 1 and then double rope 30m to ground - or fix a 100m rap line. The route starts left (looking out) of where the rap ropes touches down.

1. 30m (19) Short handcrack to grasstree, then step left into fused corner (bolt). Up corner (fiddly gear) to ledge. Finish up spooky but spectacular layback crack to novelty belay on "boot flake" ledge.

2. 25m (23 to 25) Left off ledge (medium cams in breaks) to bolted face & techy fused corner. Save a #1 & 2 Camalot for the top. Full hanging belay on bolts. Leave the rest of the rack for the second to lug up. The grade of the crux on this pitch is proving quite divisive (hence the route name).

3. 25m (21) 3 bolts up face to the right of corner (bird poo marks the way!) then swing right into blind trad protected corner that leads to tiny ledge belay.

4. 30m (21) Stem up a few moves to cam break - then traverse right onto orange face and up to small roof crack. Over this (burly!) then up long dirty wide crack to top. Don't place all your big gear down low - you will want it high up!

A good slightly runout adventure up a long wall that starts up Pure Spirit's corner then straight up bolted wall above. The print guidebook says this is a sport route - it is not. Bring a big cam for the start (#5 camalot - and a handful of finger/fist cams for wall section leading up to the very high first bolt). The grade 25 crux is at the 6th bolt - but can be easily avoided at grade 23 by climbing 1m right of the bolt.

Crouch start on right hand ledge and left hand bowl/sloper/thing. Hard move to small crimp then jump to top

Start 2 m right of Orange Crush, traverse left past a thin reachy move to finish up Thin Times.

DELETE THIS PLEASE

Do the majority of the traverse but got straight up the face to topout once you get to the arete, avoiding the moist topout.

Sit start on alcohine and traverse the seam to moist and topout.

Sit start on hole in middle of overhang. Big move up and left then up jugs. Avoid jugs on Ripple.

Start on steep left hand prow. Move right on edges and then up through jugs.

Start low below the big scoop, between 'sit goggins sit' and 'going goggins'. Move diagonally left to sloper topout. tricky and technical climbing.

Start match on obvious jug. Cross into left crimp then match. Head left and finish up Goggins Hips.

Sit Start on left start holds and move right and finish up Skuxx Life.

Sit start then straight up from good holds

Sit start then portal feature.

A fun little number up next to the big gum leaning against the boulder. Sit start.

Sit start. Use arete, make a long move, climb to the lip and mantle up to finish.

Start as for Wolfgang low and move up to the horizontal break and then big move out left to finish jug of ‘meat Bishop’.

Start on 2 crimps, pop up to line of rails and traverse out to jugs for top match.

To the left of screaming on mute, hang start off sloper rail, trend right through pockets and mantle up with slopers to finish.

Find the glued on hold next to campus top out and follow chalk to the top.

Block in creek. Obvious up stream from JC and ML. Doesn't top out as tree is in the way.

Cool high-ish problem up the rails on the left of the wall. Climb to top jug below big hanging tree fern. Down climb to get off. Careful with the mats if you fall, the ground is pretty scoochy Ben Cossey

Very low start on opposing good sidepulls with feet on back wall. Move up and right through the amazing pinch, then straight up and finish on ledge. Much easier for the tall.

Right to left staying below the choss ledge at the end. A good pumper - grade 25?

One for Mike. Off width corner crack. Full value. Grade estimates have ranged from V0 to V5!

On right side of the Hueco Cave. Sit start. This line climbs some delicate press moves, a punchy throw to a large dish with a twin beside it. Finished at lip of roof. Very slabby top out waiting to be done by the brave. A variant out left after the two scoops still be done, much harder.

Obvious line from center of cave tending left out through the roof. Plenty of heel and toe hooks.

Steep styling, high balling, full cream dairy funk trust fun! Bring your tissues, 'cos your gonna love it, or cry trying! Brilliant line spotted by Adrian Brogan while hunting for something else...freaking schweet.

Project highball. Start on through holds and up linking two flakes up to a high and committing top out.

Start on slope and undercling pinch. Climb up to various crimps then to slopers. Topout

Start in two finger pocket and far sidepull on the other face. Go up the arete and through the gap in the roof. estimated v4

Start on jugs to crimps

Start on jugs, big move up left and slopey topout. Uses a lot of skin on first move

Start in pockets

Starting in pockets on the far left hand side of the face that splits the two caves traverse left following the pockets and then slopey rails to finish up the prominent nose. No feet on the low, flat section of rock.

On the far right hand side of the bouldering cave in the small roof section. Start in the massive chalky hole and traverse right through the roof on chalky slopers to finish matched on the rail.

A tad scary

Sit start to mosquito clamps. Going up via the edges and pocket and out through MC.

Start on the big jug up to another jug pocket with glue on it then big moves up and right via crimps. Keep trucking right past another jug pocket to finish as teflon.

A fun campus problem, start with a small pocket and crimp, move right to finger jug, left hand to small crimp above then swing right to a good incut high edge, match.

Start at the back of the cave, follow the flake feature through the roof, then head right after turning the lip and finish matched on jug ledge same as 'Oxycel'.

Phillip Booth

Start from the big jug. Out and up. Committing.

Sit start, work your way up the diagonal crack and link to Wing It for the finish

Start 2 hands on cave arete and continue up and over. careful of the tail bone breaker rock (nice flexible crashpad for first timer)

start on sitting on table top and continue up the same side until you can press your poop-deck into opposing cave

start on the 2 hands on leg loss rock and top to finish (check for clearing)

straight up rightside arete. do a little switcharoo at the top when its too overhung

From the finger jug edge up to the scoop and up to the right. Feels tricky till you get comfortable

Chris Beers

As for kick it but up via a sloper

Stand start in corner balance and head up, theres a hold around the right side to help

Start up GG then go into RO

Beautiful highball, head up on good holds

Chris Beers

Sit start on third start position bottom shelf is off, go up and left via edges and jugs finish up Nice exit

As per choc ripple but skip the right sidepull undercling and go from the sit to the scoop for a nice tension move

Same as Milk Coffee but high jug traverse all the way to 4th top out spot

Sit start matched low down in the seam, big move to jugs.

start left of jump shot on two jugs near vertical seam, gain right side pulls, then up. Jaime Williams (FA)

start on two comfy jugs on bottom rail to the right of switch up, head to next horizontal break to get positioned for a dyno to the top. Jaime Williams (FA)

Really enjoyable moves, stand start right hand pinch left on slope scoop feature. Head out right and up via nice holds. Jaime Williams (FA)

Start on crimp rail and flat edge pinch, up to scoop via comfy pinch then straight up. * current topo is to highest slot due to fallen tree.

after a good clean and several attempts, the line isn't as hard as i thought but still awesome.

sit start in under cut cave climb up over lip then diagoaly left

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Squat start. Start left hand on obvious mono pocket, right hand on lowest side pull.

Needs more repeats. Could be a V3.

Eson Zhao

A proper highball boulder problem. I recommend top Roping from tree above to work the high crux because if you fall from there you better have a lot of mats. VERY good climb but potential for injury if you fall from the top crux. The topout and walk off is achievable now that the choss from the jug over the top has been cleared away.

Another old aid route through a big ceiling that has now been partially freed.

1. 25m (23) Chossy corner crack for 12m to large shale covered ledge and BR. Up short corner to roof, then traverse rightwards with difficulty (small cams) to lip of roof and easy crack finish and trad belay on shale ledge.

2. 10m (10) Corner to ledge. Best linked into next pitch.

3. 13m (23/M2) Up corner then right to prow. Overhung short corner (piton scars) and out hanging wall to juggy black stuff and up to ledge. Is being attempted as a free route by Macca (2013).

4. 30m (15) Long easy black wall of horror jugs.

The top pitch might be the best on the crag, shame about what it takes to get there.

Start: Start at the corner about 8-10m L of 'Dr Freeze'.

1. 30m (17) Mild. Up the corner for about 12m then onto the slab and doddle up L for 15-20m to the belay ledge and DRB. Mostly trad plus maybe a carrot or two (stainless glue-in).

2. 18m (23 M1) Sport. Good 23 climbing up to a couple of stopper moves near the top of the pitch that will be 27+. Pull on a couple of bolts.

3. 22m (21) Sport. The awesome shallow groove, beautiful sustained moves the whole way on perfect Blueys stone.

Four varied pitches - and one stopper move on pitch three which has yet to be climbed free.

Start: Rap in from sling around bollard above 'End of Days'. All raps are diagonally rightwards (looking in), and will require some "redirection" to reach the start of the route. Best to fix 100m rope, and redirect it through several bolts to ensure you don't end up stranded in space, to the belay at the end of Pitch 1. From here, rap 30m on the lead rope to the left edge of the starting ledge (keep up a swing to ensure you land on the ledge!).

Alternatively use double ropes and rap down 35m, 15m, 40m, 30m.

It is highly recommended that you bring Cams #0.4 - #1 for the starting crack (and belay), as the first bolt is REALLY high.

1. 35m (23) Long and sustained face climbing. Easy sandy corner crack to roof, undercling left and across face which thins alarmingly near the end.

2. 45m (23) Long and exposed fused flake just right of arete to top of pillar. Up and left across short orange face to shale break. Past this on jugs to belay in slabby corner stance at triple bolt belay. Sustained!

3. 32m (23M1) Yet to be led clean. Pull on crux bolt (tricky to clip!) to knock this pitch down from grade 27 to grade 23. Left onto arete then left again to short juggy face. Thin moves to horizontal, left along this to reachy move over rooflet (glued-up hold). Up very exposed left facing corner to juggy finish and comfy bivi ledge under huge roof.

4. 13m (20) Short, steep and exposed. Up and left on ironstone jugs to hit roof at mossy crack. Jugs to top. Double ring belay.

Too blank to free - kind of stupid. Climb seam crack start of TSLA to slabby shelf ledge below bolted orange wall. Up orange wall (aid on old carrot bolts for a couple of moves) then up to join Quits traverse. Continue straight up (more old bolts and more aid moves because rock is blank). A couple of metres of free climbing to finish. This route is 90% bolted with bash-in carrots - only a couple of cams required.

The left route. One point of aid. Carrots and could be some trad? Currently has a 'biner on high bolt - no visible lower-off.

Superseded by the Spoilt Mercy Linkup but listed here for historical value (and maybe the aid move can go free for someone so inclined?) Gain the ledge a few metres left of Spoilt Brats' 1st belay, either from Spoilt Brats, or by unprotected bridging for 8m up between the blank wall and tree (!). Follow three old carrots up the blank face (aid on the 2nd one to bypass blankness) then join into ringbolts up face left of Spoilt Brats.

Somewhat of a construction exercise. Ahead of its time!

Mostly carrots (and a couple of fixed brackets) but bring a 0.5 to get to the first bolt.

1. 30m (23 M1) - Up weakness trending right past cam to carrot. Hard moves up steep corner (crux) with hard to clip bolts to ledge. Funky moves up "creative" features to brackets. Aid up (tricky reach) to gain leftmost bracket, then resume freeing to next carrot. From here, hard traverse left to gain 2 x carrot belay on arete.

2. 15m - Up the easing slab above.

since the crux hold further disintegrated pull on the draw......

Accessed by Abseil. Start 25m Right of top of John Arthur Ray (looking out). Rap 40m from BB and tree to chain and small gear belay. Up past bolt and gear to stance below arete. Thin moves to roof, then steep moves on good holds to bulge. Through bulge then up and left on slab to another bulge, then top past 11 bolts. Bring a mixed rack of cams.

Same start as Hipshake Jerk. Batman start to jug above first bolt, then take the leftmost line through steep terrain. Start from ground with dyno still gets 26.

An excellent two-pitch bolted route that climbs a proud, clean arete. Both pitches can be combined for an excellent long pitch which eliminates the hanging belay.

Access by walking down the tunnel/stairs from The Block area, and turning left towards the Colosseum at the marked intersection, and walking approx 100m along the base of the cliff. Do not confuse this with the first bolted arete you come to! Coordinates at the base of the climb are S 33° 40.331', E 150° 16.499'.

1. 20m (23 M0) Stick clip and batman to the first bolt. If bringing a second up the pitch, hang a long sling from the first bolt so that they can use it for aid. Thin arete moves past three more bolts to a rest, then balancy moves lead to a tough mantle and another rest. Move right under the roof, then wild moves up and around the lip to the desperate anchor clip and semi-hanging belay. 9 Bolts.

2. 25m (21) Hard move off the belay, then classic arete slapping and laying away. Exposed and atmospheric. Finishes at a good stance. 11 RB to a DRB belay.

To escape, either rap the route to the ground and walk out, or CAREFULLY scramble 10m up the slope to the gravel ledge at the base of Gimme Shelter on the upper cliffline. Best to belay each other and sling a bushes on the way up. There are double rings at the base of GS to top belay the second person.

This pitch can be accessed from above by abseiling down from the double rings at the base of Gimme Shelter, and rapping the route to the ground. A 60m route reaches the ground.

Squeezed in hard climb with hard moves right through (and around the corner). Constant ground fall risk mitigated with bolt placement in good rock. Attentive belayer! Can stick clip anchors to work on top rope first.

Combines a hard start, nice rest, and one of the most delicate and holdless finishes at Tarana.

Start: North face of large square block with Spot the Brain Cell.

Scramble up ledges to large rock platform to access or abseil in. Start 3m right of the corner. Step off small boulder, up wall past 4BR and the large 'wombat hole' in the rock.

Start: 4m right of 'Jagusch Putsch', left of 1st BR. Up to dyke & ledge, over bulge, and up easy ground to shared 2FH anchor.

An interesting groove with an infuriating overhang. Andrew Penney returned to eliminate the single point of aid.

Start: 10m right of Goog 'Gully'. The left groove of two. Up short slab past BR into crack. Easily up crack, groove to bulge, hard move past BR to gain groove then up easy slab past two carrots to shared 2FH anchor.

Very pumpy for its length. An undercling going nowhere.

Start: Middle of the wall to the left of, and at right angle to PP. Stick clip 1st BR and a few hard moves gain flake. Undercling and jam to its end, and lower off the bolt..

Start: On same boulder as Reflections, down and round L from that climb. Step off boulder onto slab. Up diagonally left for pro (desperate nut placement), then up dyke diagonally right past 2 BR to poor BB belay at trees.

Sustained and delicate.

Start: 2m left of BD.

1. 35m Follow the blunt arete, moving L just before teh final steep section, then R again to the stance. 7 BR, some with FH plus a #2 Friend in crack low down.

2. 15m Slightly easier slab past BR leads to a very tricky finale over the bulge, protected by another BR. Easy walk up slab to stance & DBB

Classic!

Start: Marked. 10m left of 2001BB. Thin right leaning diagonal crack. Up crack to better crack and up to tree. Left to arete and up. Traverse down and left along ramp to belay. Right side of arete and up.

Please note that the climb has gone back to nature and is unclimbable. Pity

Start: On the terrace where DSE ends, directly above that climb. Can rap in from the top of SDotT. Straight up past 3 BR then run it out up the slab. Wander across to the DBB on top of SDotT

Sustained all the way to the summit.

Start: On West arete of a big boulder approx 120m W of the Deckout buttress. Bridge up desperately between tree and wall, then up past 6 BR.

Start: Marked. 7m down and left of DMB. Desperately smooth slab - up past 6 BR to DBB rap station.