Routes in Central Coast

Climb Academic revision to the slopey jug on the lip. Then reverse room with a view back to the sloths crux, finishes as sloths in the attic. Fight the pump!

Starts the same as Academic Revision but after the hard pinch move you go across via some techy moves into the start of Sinusoidal and finish this topping out the cliff. A PE feat.

Climb "Academic Revision" through to the finish of "Room with a view" traverse right through some crimps to the obvious flat ledge of "Sinusoidal" and head directly up the slab, with some spooky feet to top out.

Links Academic Revision into Dr Bob top out.

Start about 3m to the right of "Room with a View" matched on jug at back of cave and climb virtually directly out of the roof, towards the same finish jug as "Room with a view" continue left topping out as for "Room with a better view"

The contender for best in the cave? Climb as for 'Sloths in the attic' to the the big jug rail, from here traverse the lip back-towards 'Room with a better view" through some small edges and a tough cut. Top out as for "Room with a better view'

Starting as for Braveheart, make some tricky moves from the sit start to join into Chicken Run. Finishing for that problem. Could be 12

Start as for Braveheart Direct. After gaining the jug, before Braveheart crux, bust out left to an edge. Right hand to a nothing hold then making a crux move to the slopey lip. Traverse right to finish as per other problems.

The most direct line for Braveheart. Start on slotted jug as per Mad Max, and head straight out the roof as for Braveheart.

Usual cave start. Traverse out left to the slotted jug (effectively reversing Mad Max) then straight through the roof on two poor left hands. Huck for glory!

Start on the two slotted edges and do a tricky 1-2 dyno to the lip. Easy mantle into the dish. Tom Hodgson (FA)

Starts matched on the lowest flat edge with a bad right smear foot and heads straight up, using edges and underclings

Start as for room with a view but halfway out exit straight left through some tough moves to reach the jugs. The a large throw to lip before heading straight up the headwall to walk off.

Jenny Lin

Start on the big pockets on the pillar on the right of cave. Move out and left to join the lip and finish as for Goldie Horn.

6ft deep into Rats cause broken brains

Link the start of 'Top Shelf' into 'Bullet and a Target' into and topping out with 'High Calibre'.

Link Firing squad into broken boy solider exit. Once in double underclings of firing squad, make a hard move right to join the sloper rail of broken boy soldier and finish as per this problem. The whole Top Shelf (v3) ledge is off as are the Interloper (V4) slots/jugs under the roof.

Start: Sit as for Firing Squad.

Just as you walk into the cave, start on two obvious juggy pockets just under the roof. Make a tough move out to a small crimp rail then a tricky jump to a flat ledge. Continue straight up the slab to top out.

Starting 1-2m to the right of "Sinusoidal" on two edges in the roof. Move right to a pocket, and make a big move to the lip. Make your way up using crimps and slopers on the face ultimately joining "Sinusoidal" to finish

Start as for extended line but finish as for batter up

Start: As for Extened Line and link into all of fast ball or fast ball variant from the back ledge. Does not use any of the finish holds of 'Extended line' The big lip jug is off!

Start as for 'Curve Ball' and finish as for 'Fast Ball' or 'Fast Ball Variant'. Harder than 'Bases Loaded' but not enough for an upgrade.

Start: Sit start as for 'Whats golden' but from the juggy underclings climb the short slick prow up and left on horrible slopes and pinches to finish on the high slot. Avoids the hand holds on the right wall and the left arete of 'Happy Pyramid'

Start: Sit start as for 'Yummy Noodle' Gain the tufa and move right under the capped roof on under clings as for 'Magic Beans' continue right across the little buldge, through the next little cave to finish as for Hydraulic

Starts matched on obvious jug on the right side of the left arête. Head straight up using poor slopers and side pulls to mantle straight over the top. An awesome line.

Sit start at the bottom right hand corner of the arete then move up and left on horrible slopes to a hard top out. NOTE: The far undercling holds on Micks arete are off.

Start as for A Lesson In Core Movements and head up and right. Once at the lip, keep traversing right to top out as for Mick's Arete Left.

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Direct top out of Eli's Closed Proj.

A Lesson in Core Movement direct. After the crux of core movement, head straight up to a slopey edge and delicately mantle your way out using various slopers and blind feet.

Sit start on heinous left hand pinch and right hand under cling or slopey side pull. Move up to slopey mono pocket intermediate before slapping to start of Pilum and finishing up the same way.

Sit start on left hand crimp and right hand undercling pinch. Head straight out the rooflet into gold member. The back step isnt in to start.

Start on the two slopers, a tricky sit move gains the right hand gaston finishing with a final jump to the lip. Not sure on the grade.

Low start sit/crouch R/H on slopey sidepull L/H on lowest sidepull flake, bump up right through sidepull to gain the flat edge/ bump left up through sidepull flakes then into the stand start

Crouch start on the small pockets under the roof, big move up to the crimps on the lip. Finish as for Goldie Horn.

start as for hot rats and climb all the way into broken brains

Link Indian Leg wrestling into causes broken brains.

Link 6ft deep into causes

Climb 6ft deep into hot rats topout

Link Mad Max into Lethal Weapon. (Main jug rail is out as per Lethal Weapon)

Stand start on two edges, Move up right hand to a slimpy edge and pop to a left hand slotted edge. move up to the lip and mantle out.

Start as for established line and head to right big dinner plate jug. Then head straight out through small crimps and an undercling near the lip in the middle of the lip.

Start on right most jug and dyno to the lip. Mantle straight over.

As for fast ball but move left through poor holds to slap out the blunt left hand little 'Arete' of the cave. Still avoids using any holds from the established line for your hands especially the huge jug on the lip.

Start: Sit start as for 'Back Burner'

This is the nastiest finish going. Frustration! and it's usually wet. Start on some deep breaks at the back r/h side of the cave. Climb out to the big obvious jug now try to climb directly out the very steep roof to the rounded top out 1m right of the other problems. Uses the bad bad pinch type hold that looks like it may have broken. Heart breaking last throw to the slopers

Start: Back r/h Side of cave

Climb the low rail out right but keep going, staying low under the little prow. Come up into the second scoop, press through and gain the lip on the R/H side. Mantle as for "Hydraulic"

Start: Sit start as for previous problems

Start: Sit start as for Yummy noodle. Then move right on underclings below the capped roof. Finish up 'Dead bolt direct' left of the block above.

Shared start with 'Fire In the Hole' but moving right and up along small slopey crimps, then jumping for the lip and mantling over.

Vision by Tom Hodgson climbed by William Frost-Foster.

Start 4m right of Womb Raider in the slopey 1 and 2 finger pockets and traverse up and left into Womb Raider top out.

Emmanuel Madayag

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Variant of Bec De Corbin exiting right into Pilum at the big lip flake.

Climb room with a view all the way to the slopey lip then bust up and left to good ledge before going straight up and up on some crimp rails before easy high terrain topping out. First done with a tied in spotter and it would be recommended.

Stand start on a right hand edge and left hand undercling around head height. Make a reachy move to some dimples with the right hand and make your way up on edges to top out.

Sit start on sidepull moving up and left through pocket. Top out.

Slow drying top section.

An epic line that follows The Red into Roast Lobster Mornay all the way to the top of the cave.

Hard campus through the slopers at the end.

Sit start and up the arete on hard pinches.

Start on the break on the right side of the Arête then climb the nose.

Start at hot rats. Big move to jug and finish as for Causes.

Low start into hot rats.

The same as love jugs, except keep going out on similar line and top out.

Normal cave start, bust out right heading towards the undercling jug using crafty toe hook and wraps. Take the cut on the undercling jug (Tuck tuck tuck!) and top out right. (Main jug rail is NOT in)

From the starting crimps, climb directly backwards. L/H to gaston, R/H to poor undercling, match, then a weird move gains the 'interloper' pocket on the inside of the lip. Finish up 'Interloper'. The entire top shelf ledge is off limits. A shoulder destroyer! I know

Start: Sit start in about the center of the right hand cave on two fairly incut crimps.

Sit start matched on poor side pull moving up left then pouncing up to incut crimps that start 'Angry Ant Farm'

The best of hard routes on this bloc. On the backside of the First World Problems Boulder. Sit start on obvious jug and make your way directly up via a micro edge and some tricky heel hooking. Unsure on the grade.

Starting a few metres to the right of Analysis Paralysis. Sit start with hands on the lowest holds (A left hand rail and right hand crimp) Bust up to a block side pull and a slopey right hand crimp and make your way up and right to mantle and slab top out The 'stand start' from the block side pull and slopey crimp, probably goes at about 6

Start from the same start holds as Analysis Paralysis, Instead of heading out left go straight up the direct. Cross left hand to a crimp just before the lip, move right to a sloper and head straight up through a tricky mantle.

Link the tonic into Street legal

Traverse left using only the holds in the horizontal break. Follow the break to the very end as it gets progressively worse, to a slopey top out on the far left where the break rounds out.

Start: Sit start at the very R/H end of the little cave 'matched on the hole'

Start at 'back burner' and reverse the 'established line' and come back up via 'Curve Ball' and finish as for that problem.

Start as for curve ball and make moves to the big mushroom in the roof then big move left to the lip and continue a fridge hug/compression to top out as for backburner.

Esentially a more direct route to the extended line. Start as for that problem and gain the big mushroom type hold in the roof. From here fire a big move to a bad flat block in the roof and re-join the established line near the very end. All the Holds of the established are not used untill right near the end just before the big horn. Tricky, Tricky

Start: As for the Extended Line

Sit start as for happy pyramid then traverse right low to large span move, high jugs are out. finish as for golden pinch

Climb the rail right as for "Dead Bolt" but once you gain the pockets under the little roof traverse back left underclinging various little knobs, make a big move left to gain the perfect fat pinch then straight up to finish at the lip.

Start: Sit start "matched" at the farthest left hand end of the big low rail.

Sit/crouch start as for The Aquarius, but go straight up with hands using the two crimpers on the left only.

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2m right from Huck like Tom, Towards the lower end of the bloc. Sit start with left hand side pull and right hand crimp. Head directly up and mantle out.

Starts about 2m to the right of Han Solo. One move then a big throw/huck to the lip and mantle

As for ming the merciless but eliminate the big jug for your hands. There are some small crimps before it you can use.

Stand start and straight up to the press out mantle. A great technical line that gets progressively harder to an easyish mantle.

Start for 'Halberd' and continue up and left to the three rightward facing pinches. Without moving left to the slot at the mantle of 'Halberd', climb directly up using a rightward facing crimp. Top out to the right, as per 'Bec de Corbin'.

The first line developed here. Sit start matched on the block feature in the back of the cave reaching back into the loose looking flake moving up to gain a series of right facing side pulls then moving up and left topping out.

Agapanthus left exit, start as for Agapanthus sit,climb the first half of the problem then match the high left flake, then bust out to the left arete/lip, then up and over left of the nose

Located on your right as you're walking up the hill. An obvious overhanging prow bloc that looks like its leaning on a tree. Sit start at the back of the little cavelet on the obvious jug. Make some tension moves to head out left and around the lip on small edges to a tricky mantle.

Start matched on the side pulls. Move through underclings and a sloper trending left towards the jug and top out.

Sit start on the right hand side of the boulder with left hand on pocket under the arete and left hand on crimpy pinch. move up and left to top out as for Tàijí Quán.

Hard to grade, need a second opinion but somewhere between V6 and 8.

The line moving slightly right with big move to bird poo slopey ledge.

Short, powerful, technical! Bust through the crux of calamari then head left on bad holds. Wrestle the bulge and traverse to finish at the anchors of Spider Pig. Bonus points if you find the bat-hang rest.

CLOSED PROJECT

From ledge move left and up flared crack.

Out roast lobster roof then continue to top out!

Huge line of Permadraws heading out the roof.

Excellent. Starting from big ledge, move up the crack and through the roof with difficulty to some technical moves on the headwall, with a potentially heartbreaking finish

Start as Goldie Horn head left to finish up Gold Rush.

Goldie Horn without the crimps. Straight to the pocket/dish.

Sit start on the arete, traverse right down to the horn then climb Goldie Horn. Pumpy.

Sit start at the arete. Directly up the scoop. Hold has broken now, slightly harder.

Start at big break right of the arete, and head directly up. through a left hand mono, and a right hand small crimp, ultimately to a mega jug. Top out as per arete problems