Routes in Central Coast

Sit start trending right through pocket

Sit Start to Sagittarius, makes a good problem even better!

Tricky start from a bad left hand crimp and a right hand side pull.

Sit start in the obvious low undercling gaining the ledge, then move through the sloper to topout. All the pockets to the left and right of the climb are out. The high left sidepull is also out.

Sit start then swing out right over the void and up

Sit start around the corner from the big jug.Starts matched on a good flat edge. Climb left to gain the big jug. Punch up to the break then exit via the tricky mantle. The original line here.

Start matched on the low rail. Trend right to take a right crimp, then up to jugs and mantle.

Start in the low break. Big move to lip then up headwall to top out.

Sit start below the hollow bone feature just to the right of the access slope on the water side of the boulder. Up past a good flat hold to a big throw over the top.

Start matched on the small incut edge under the hueco. Move directly up via the small shallow pocket and small crimps, pulling through the big hold just below the lip. All jugs left and right are off for both hands and feet.

Sit start ledge pockets to trav R on break. Top out on slab

Start low on the triangular ironstone feature. Up using the arete and avoiding the wall behind

Sit start low moving directly up through large pockets and crimps to top out. All time!

Stand start on lowest shield jug following the obvious line of huge shield jugs to slopey top out. V1-2 to top out.

As for 'Frick Off' but stepping off left before the mantle. Less Scary than 'Frick Off' but not as cool.

Sit stand moving directly up the prow making sure not to step off to either side and topping out.

Sit start for 'Yum Cha' on obvious undercling and hidden pocket.

Start matched on large crimp on the left hand side moving straight out the knob feature mantling and topping out.

Stand start on incut side pull and slopey side pull moving directly up. top out slightly right of 'Red Chili'.

Sit start, left hand slopey crimp right hand matchbox. Trend right along lip, jug crimp, to mantle over the horn. Beware of the tree behind you.

Stand start directly above the engraving reading 'THE DAG' moving directly up and topping out.

Start around the corner from Falarica on carck and undercling, follow the crack up and around as it trends left ultimately joining the end of Pilum.

Far right of the slab face, just before the ground steps up. Standing start with left hand on edge where the horizontal and parallel crack seams meet, right hand in slopey 2 finger dimple. Move right to side pull before using a series of underclings on arete and crimps to gain the lip then mantle

Start low matched in the zig zag right side of the crack. Work the crack up to the roof, from there move out to the good edge on the lip. Using a tiny chip for a heel use the two small edges to gain the top and mantle right. Most direct line.

Sit start matched on lowest slopey edge, move up the slopey arete up past the jut out then big rock over mantle without using the good edge over the lip.

Sit start matched as for uncut gems, move out right into sharp flakey crimps all the way out to to top out through jaggered features

Stand start with L/H on low sidepull, R/H above on gaston edge, get a high left foot and work your way straight up using any holds

Start as for amphibian, traverse right all the way to the end then move up into the hueco and topout

Stand start R/H as for chrysanthemum on slopey sidepull, L/H under lip, move left hand up to crimp edge then bump R/H up a series of sidepulls and top out through feature

Start matched low in the cave on the big flat edge, bust out to the crimp on the face then out to the lip, use edges on the bulge to get up and mantle, tricky and nipple grazing

Sit start in the middle of the wall using a left hand side pull crimp and a right hand undercling. Hard first move to the sharp jug then move up left to top out.

Mauricio Chino

Classic bouldering on slopers and edges, top outs are sandy pre prepare!!!

Start sitting on jug rail and Traverse right with big move into half brain.

Sitstart.

Sit start with left hand out wide on pinch and right on thin undercling. Feet must be on the wall NOT on flat rock. Move up to right pinch then using the incut edges on lip to gain the flat lip. Traverse left on lip to the centre of the cave(crackline) then rock over mantle.

Stay very low heading around the arete. Not sure if this is bum dragging rubbish or not too bad?

Get established on the underclings then up past the mono and rails to the top

In the small overhang in front of "Slab of the week" sit start in the hole matched in the seam, make a move to the lip and traverse right a few moves. Then head up and mantle out.

Start as for SIMP, but head straight up

Standing start at the lowest jugs and power your way up to the crimp (or all the way to the top)

Take the direct line of 'Go North Young Thang' and avoid the left ledge above the slab by clipping the lower traverse bolt before heading up on the thin pockets and crimps. Looks like it will be a great line, but a bit contrived.

Start matched on the far most left juggy rail in the middle of the big cave. Traverse right before meeting up with "the only way out" and finish as this problem

As for Vitology but keep going left.

Thin crack up the short wall.

A mixed route that starts as for Feast For Fingers, moving up to the horizontal break at 7mts and traversing R across the wall into the cave. Mixed gear and a couple of rings

Starts directly below left end of cave 3. Up past a chipped undercling and a few more chipped holds to slopey mantle into cave. Straight up rim of cave and hard move past bolt to finish.

boulder prob starting behind a casuarina below Tiny Dancer. Begins just L of where you scramble up to the cave routes.

The line of clean rock directly below the DRB, 1.5m L of Centrepiece and 1m R of the crappy 23. Clean rock and good moves including multiple underclings.

Up 'Lobster', Diagonally right then through roof flake to lower off.

Up slopes to undercling, then hard move to gain upper section of cave. Move left on slopey ledge to exciting sitting finish.Starts just after the first pinch gap on the low bolt. Back jump to clean.

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.

Righthand route on the main wall. Unfortunately it is impossible to use the line of holds to the right of the bolts without putting one's back to the tree. A direct, tree-free ascent awaits.

Middle route on the wall. Stick Clip. Belayer should not stand below climber stepping out onto head wall.

Left hand route of the buttress. Clip-stick the first bolt.

Starts 8mts L of Techtonic. Crux start up the steep cavity to horizontal break at about 3.5 m. Upwards tending L around into the boxy corner. Enjoy some good old fashioned jamming (remember this is a sport climb) before leaving the crack and moving back onto the wall. Depending on the moisture continue straight up or trend a little right. Fun climb

Start as for Techtonic until third ring then branches off left to the lower offs on L side of upper wall. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015 with Gordon's blessing

starts on the left or right side of the undercut block at the right end of the large cave. 2 rings are placed to allow either start.Straight up to the steepening wall and the anchors directly above. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015. Much safer than the earlier version by Richard. (He gave his blessing to the rebolting)

3m left of JDI, straight up and over bulge. 4BR, DBB which is on top of large block in front of dead tree. Heading left to the ring bolts above the crack misses the crux.

Shared start with White Out in corner then head right under roof and up short headwall.

• Back-leading is recommended to clean the route. Too much rope drag exists in order to top-rope from the anchors.

Start in the corner on the right hand side of cave (shared start with Gonzo). Hard start to a pumpy traverse left. Shared anchors with Farout

Start on the featured bulge in in the top cave.

The ramp/arete rising up to the R. You can keep strictly to the ramp (#25) or climb to the left (#23). 3 U-bolts. Shold have a rap anchor but someone forgot to drill the holes.

5m L of THC is an attractive vertical crack. Up this with wires and cams for 8mts before your first ring bolt. Crux. up to horizontal break ( a cam if you are worried) tending L to another ring bolt. Continue L to a short crack system (another cam or wire) then straight up passing two more rings. Double ring bolt anchor. rebolted 2016

Starts as for Oysterland 1st pitch. 2nd Pitch - clip 1st ring of Oysterland the move L to the arete. Onto face and straight up using cams to protect.

Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBTW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing rings, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBTW to same finish Originally done with cams now fully ring bolted.

Just L of F&B is a stunning black wall. Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right

Mixed gear with old carrots and a couple of cams #0.5 - 1 to get you to the top.

Up orange streak

Abseil down over the block to 3 bolt belay above big roof. Super.

Starting off DBB above roof, trend left and up through great rock

Abseil in as for The Contortionist. On ground level, walk right (facing in) ~20m to start just left of small cave.

Bolts and gear. BD 0.3 - 3 used for FA.

1. (30m) Mixed - 22 - Trend up and right past 3 bolts to double crack system with good cams. Continue straight up past a couple more bolts, traversing right after the scoops along grassy ledge. Straight up crack with gear to DBB on ledge.

2. (25m) Sport - 23 - Bridge overhanging corner to gain thin flake over bulge. Move up small edges trending towards the arete. Traverse delicately right to a tricky crux guarding the anchor. Semi-hanging chain belay.

3. (25m) Sport - 20 - The price of admission. Move left and up into chossy cave. Clip fixed tat and bolt, then mantle onto platform. Traverse left and up on slopers to a botanical and balancey finish.

4. (20m) Mixed - 16 - Straight up blocky corner with good gear. A bolt protects the scramble to the lunch ledge. DUB on top of block.

5. (15m) Sport - 21 - Straight up the right side of arete to a break, followed by crux on great orange rock. DBB over the bulge. Can lower off to the lunch ledge or top out and walk around.

Step down off platform, 8 m right of DCG, to the right of a white roof, and up wall minding the sundews.

Stay on the vertical face for the grade, easier if mantled onto the slab

Up 2m R of Mr Creosote on low arête and then through small roof and head wall to anchors back from edge on boulder. Need to abseil off to clean. Alternatively use DBB on route to right.

Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade.

Start at the left of the cave, tough first move then traverse out right past 3 more bolts to finish at top of cliff at 1 U bolt.

Beautiful arête with very solid rock starting off boulder on top of mini shelf. Mixture of RBs and FHs. Resistance climbing.

Start R side of nose at fixed hanger. Up passed carrot and L to join Getting Over it at 3rd bolt (carrot), and up.

1 Fixed hanger then 2 carrots. Start on L side of nose, then move R onto nose for easy arête climbing

2m right of gully. Boulder problem start and straight up to bulge, slightly right then balancy move to topout. 3 U-Bolts.