Routes in Central Coast

The blunt arête right of chimney up three carrots to single U-bolt on top.

Up and trend right to double ring bolt anchors in the roof.

Obvious clean corner in centre of cliffline. A great climb. Straight up the corner. Unless you have tube chocks, the last gear is at about half height, which puts you on a 15m ground fall through the crux (a rounded, insecure layback right near the top).

At the very left hand end of the wall is a low obvious, in cut jug in front of the black boy. Start here and move directly up through the seams.

All the good holds to mantle. Approx. 4-5m right of low hanging roof. Sit start.

The right side of the top arête. Not exactly 'Frankenstein' at the Fear Factory.

Fun for the kids Climb the slabby arete. Worth doing

Start: Standing

Sit start at R/H end along the pocketed break. Straight up. The easiest of the easy.

Start: Sit

An easy climb up the side face of the alien boulder.

Start: sit start in the middle of boulder on the side facing the break down lane.

Just right of scale the whale on the little face slab. Climb from standing start up the lumpy feature

Start: 1m right of arete

Climb the easy blocky slab. Also the descent here

Start: Left of 'Hidden Agenda'

Opposite the trackside boulder and 6m left of the twin cracks is a blunt arête, just past a ledge that is half way up the wall. This climbs the left side of the blunt arête

The left most line on this boulder stand start and topping out.

Sit start to slopy top out

Straight up to lower offs

Don't skip the ground move.

The obvious crack dividing the first two short walls of Wards Hill. There is a cave in behind the crack. Good beginners line

Watch where you put your feet. Slab practice - holds optional

Skitter up crack and around bulge. Hand to fist size

Hand crack straight to the point

Start as for Burranburran and head in concave curve up through flake towards pointed boulder

Finger crack

Stack your fist and hand and stick your stinger in the crack. Stay off left hand slab and ledge (too easy). Protect with large cams

Up to the double scoop hold then up to and over the bulge to DUB.

As the name implies, except maybe sharper. The obvious wide crack splitting the wall before Crack'n Up Wall. Straight up crack and veer L and up wall to top.

A large rock sits over the top of the wall. Up crack in corner, then move right onto face and up to the right of the capstone.

Start: at base of wall 5m left of 3 sided square gully.

Up crack and wall directly above.

Start: 7m right of 'Uranus'.

Up corner to ledge with garden. Follow this for 8m then up the arete at end (unprotected). Start: as for 'Branches of the Almighty'.

Up groove and crack to overhang as for 'Brooce' then move left and up through obvious break. Follow crack with tree to top.

10m right of 'Tequila Powerade', below weakness in middle of the walll. Not bad. Deceptively tricky and sustained climbing up the weakness. When it peters out (at about 15m) traverse right for 7m to a ledge and a short rounded chimney. Up this to a tree belay. Desperately needs a direct finish (a line veering off to the left at the top will probably go).

Head directly up chimney 1m right of 'Bionic Chook', then up the crack above.

1m right of 'Suzy' Up (thin) left of flared chimney then move right to the final crack on 'Layla'.

The obvious orange corner in camping cave. Up nice corner to ledge. Can optionally belay here, then downclimb to the right or continue up unappealing blocky wall above (P2).

As for 'The Liar' but exit right to the Xanthorrhoea.

Small corner below right arete of windblown cave. Up corner, over bulge to arete. Up into squeeze cave then exit left.

Up the slab 1m right of the left arete.

The twin cracks 7m right of 'Excrescense'.

Follow the crack up and over the top.

Ring bolts at the top, albeit positioned for another climb so hard to clean. Bringing second up would be better.

Balancy traverse start from left onto face above small cave then up slab to U-bolt. 1m right of SS.

A fun traverse link up starting with a couple of wires in 'Hand crack' and 'Finger crack' on the left hand end of the wall, then using the first bolt of 'Kids Cruise', the second bolt of 'Slab Slapper' and the third bolt of 'Superstition'. Fun way to get used to traversing

The left crack finishing up in the cave. Ring bolts for anchors.

Carrot bolts

Dirty "Chimney" in the corner

Corner crack next to fatigued corn chips, good beginner Trad route with slabby face and some finger locks or jams with some crimps, tricky top out to tree belay or rapp off

Starts in cave up hill and left from BB. Traverse diagonally R and up to finish as for BB

Top rope from 2 x rong bolts

Start under deep pocket. A good beginner lead.

Up easy slab left of RL. Mid sized Friend protects at half way.

The crack R of Chocoholic

Overhanging groove 6m left of GC. Up groove, right up walls to top. Take care of loose blocks suspended by tree.

3m left of Spalding. Around bulge on frail holds then up slab to left. 4 BRs.

Right of the obvious, wide, overhanging chimney. Up steep wall and overhanging chimney. Recently retrobolted with 3 large RBs & double BB

3m right of F. Hard start then eases off. 2 BRs to double BB.

Just right of arête on most rightward wall of crag, undercut start but huge jugs the whole way, opposite Star boulder. Originally used anchor of 'Knobs' but this is about 5 metres from top and causes huge rope drag and loads the U-bolt incorrectly

The right crack finishing up in the cave. Ring bolts for anchors.

Start at the far R end of sport wall at the corner with black right hand wall. Up black wall then left into corner at top.

1. Up corner to cave (piton belay).

2. As for 'Fragile'.

Start: Corner 7m right of 'Fragile'.

10m left of SI. Up steep wall.

Corner 6m left of TM, just past rotten cave. Up groove then onto wall. Left into corner then follow your nose to the top.

At rotten roof left of Roundabout, with black corner above. Delicately up frail holds under roof. Over this then follow bulging corner to top.

Left of IITM. Wandery. Up leftward ascending slab onto ramps, then up and right to last overhang. Muscle over this to top.

Start

Left of They're everywhere, up the left 'corner' of the cave, pass up just left through the chossy bush.

Edge out underneath and left of the cave, and should be able to find a dimple for your right foot. Top out at left tree.

Tying anchor

Walk up left side, path to trees above to anchor with rope.

The right arete of the first tower. Top rope, solo or there’s even a cam break at half height.

Left hand corner crack of 3 sided square gully.

Marked. Black undercut wall 20m left of camping cave. Up to the Xanthorrhoea.

The wide, right facing corner with the stump of a small tree at the base, 30m right of chossy caves.

6m left of TM at tree growing out of crack. Straight up crack and overhang above.

2m left of AY. Straight up wall on good holds.

Left juggy side of the steep slab. Trend up slabs past tree and more slabs to top.

Large corner 12m left of TC. Grovel left at the top.

Just right of chimney up wall and arête. Grade 10 with preplaced anchor to avoid mantle. Ironstone buckets. There is a single hex bolt above this route to anchor off

The middle sports route on the east wall of the corridor. Shares single U-bolt on top with 'Superstition'

Break in face 13m left of cave with shells. Up pleasant crack to tree belay.

Up the chimney and crack in left hand wall. Tree belay.

Start: 10m right of 'Calm Before the Storm'.

1. Move diagonally up towards tree, then move left to cave.

2. As for 'Fragile'.

Start: 1m right of Gilmour's Gout

Short corner at left end of Stuff Wall.

Slanting corner crack around corner right of 'Tango'.

Left hand vegetated gully of Great Grey Wall. Solid tree belay.

Straight up the steps and over the top.

There are anchors at the top if you'd like to set-up a top rope, or you can simply walk off the top. A single cam protects the break halfway up.

Avoid the crumbly crimpers

Right most line on the northern side of the Centre Piece up the large jugs topping out.

7m left of S. Easily up corner.

6m right of G. Up easy slab. 2BRs to double BB.

Bridge up between walls to slightly tricky finish. Preplace anchor off tree to avoid sketchy leaf littered finish.

Just right of the cracks is a juggy slab on great rock. Single U-bolt on top.

On the east wall of the corridor, the thin crack going up to tree.

On the east wall of the corridor, the left of 2 cracks going up to tree. Anchor off large tree, be sure you use soft material to protect tree from slings.

Start as WW and traverses L up to easy section of 'Gobshite'. Potential extension(s) to Feckarse or beyond.