Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
20 | |||||
Joll's Bridge Lower cliffline | |||||
20 | ★★ Woodface Direct
Start Woodface as above. Instead of trending L after the flake crooooze straight up the arete to join original route. Ross Linsley had inadvertently climbed this arete assuming it was Woodface natural line. Same anchors as for Woodface and 'Hang Ten'. FA: Ross Linsley & Paul Riviere | 35m | |||
20 | ★★ Woodface
Beautiful open face climbing. Equipped with U-bolts in 2011 by Paul Riv.
FA: Andrew Powell & Tim Maroney, 1993 | 40m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Two Tribes
Beautiful wall climbing up great rock. Starts up short corner 10m L of the large overhang. Up to break on wall next to ferny ledge, through overlap to horizontal #1.5 & #2 cams. Out an up to bolt via ramp the straight to finish on L side of block. Small cam near top. FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993 | 15m, 1 | |||
20 | ★ Oral Stretch Marks
Starts at the L end of the large overhang. 10m L of HTT. Locate the bolt belay situated up on a ledge in the back of the overhang. Traverse L past 2 bolts then pull through the roof up into a crack on the wall which takes you to the topp. 6 bolts and 2 cams. FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993 | 15m, 6 | |||
20 | ★ Sniffing Dogs
Starts at right side of large cave pass 5 RBs, veering right at end to shared anchors with Rapunzel FA: ross linsley, andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993 | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Absolute honey
This is the far southern end of the crag. Initialled AH. Up left of cave and flake past 4 RBs to new lower offs. Rebolted by Vanessa Wills 2010 FA: andrew powell & linda leman, 1993 | 13m, 4 | |||
The Bluffs Right Bluff High Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Ginger
Start right of pillar & left of corner. Climb straight up arete to crack at top FA: paul, 2003 | 23m | |||
20 | ★★ Damsel in Distress
Need to take some cams for break. Past the slab section to layback the big flake. FA: R. Jeffrey & Grant Severn | 20m | |||
20 | Mullet Dreaming
Gain triangle ledge, out to small edges then kneebar behind the L of large flake / dihedral FA: R. Jeffrey, 2003 | 22m | |||
Woy Woy Phegans Bay | |||||
20 | ★ Opium
Below right side of blunt arete at north end of Mohamed Wall. Named for what you'd need if you miss the first clip. 3 BRs, #3.5 friend and wires. FA: Ross Linsley & Paul Riviere, 1996 | 15m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ B
4m right of arete. Straight up. A little runout. FA: Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn & Gordon Porter, 2000 | 15m, 4 | |||
Deliverance | |||||
20 | ★★ Swampy Cow Corner
Stylish major right facing corner in middle of crag. | 20m, 7 | |||
Koolewong Koolewong Crag | |||||
20 | Daves anchorless route
| 9m | |||
20 | Direct start
| 9m | |||
20 | ★ Inside left cave arete
| 6m | |||
Point Clare Point Clare Crag | |||||
20 | ★★ Line of choke
Last line on the slabs before the arete. Arete is not in. | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ Daves dinner
First carrot climb on the left. | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ Fatigued cornchip
2m right of hexylent, Jam and smear your way up the crack definitely a wrestle fest with crux after crux with a super fun kneebar move into mantle and tree as lower off or anchor, top rope access to the right of of climb FA: Blake Edwards & Miles Jones, 28 Nov 2022 | 9m | |||
Popran Leech Bar | |||||
20 | Still Squirming
Obvious crack to the left of the cave. Lower off at top. FA: Tim Haasnoot | 21m | |||
Popran | |||||
20 | ★★ Monty
| 30m | |||
West Gosford House Of Praise | |||||
20 | ★ Open your Eyes
2mts R of Blind Faith. Mixed gear. Same anchor as for Blind Faith. Set: Dave Forbes FA: Dave Forbes, 2007 | 10m, 2 | |||
West Gosford Fantasy Lane Area | |||||
20 | ★★ Red light special
Right of the wooden rungs, hard start past 2 bolts to the right of the lower cave. Trend up then right at second higher cave with interesting finish to single U bolt. All carrots. FA: Jason Piper | 20m, 7 | |||
20 | ★ Slab Climb variant
Starts at l crack ( H and A) , trending diagonally right to first FH | 20m | |||
West Gosford Amphitheatre | |||||
20 | Sanities Edge
Left hand variant of slip and Sue, after clipping second bolt step left towards tree and hanging arete then up and back right to shared anchor. Slinging tree is possible FA: jason piper | 6m, 3 | |||
West Gosford Mangina Cave | |||||
20 | ★★ Gravity is a myth
| 10m | |||
Way Out West | |||||
20 | ★ Come On Down
Straight up and a little right, following the crack. Over the top and rap off. FA: P Riviere, 2009 | 7m | |||
V1 | |||||
Chapman's Hill West wall | |||||
V1 | Bong Bong
Sit start on short honeycombed boulder next to west wall, up and top out. Left arete in. | 2m | |||
Chapman's Hill Sunnyvale | |||||
V1 | ★ Freedom 35
Sit start matched in the undercling. climb up the crack using all faces and holds. Top out. FA: Ashley Grundy | 3m | |||
Chapman's Hill The Sietch | |||||
V1 | Battered Slab
Stand start matched on obvious slanted jug rail, find the easiest path up on jugs to finish up high as for SSSS. Committing finish for the grade. Set: Michael Velsigne, 6 Oct 2023 FA: Michael Velsigne, 6 Oct 2023 | 2m | |||
The Skillion | |||||
V1 | ★★ The wren
Start on long shelf on cliff side of the boulder. Track shelf to right and then straight up the nose. FA: Jasper Lunstedt, 25 Sep 2022 | ||||
Brooklyn The Bend | |||||
V1 | Groove
FA: Stuart Ellis, 2007 | ||||
Umina Pearl Jam Caves | |||||
V1 | ★ Monster Munch
Fun traverse with one long move. FA: dan, 2007 | ||||
Umina The Gold Fields The Golden Section | |||||
V1 | ★ Golden Gay Time
Stand start on the good edge, finish on the jug. | 3m | |||
Umina Riverbed Riverbed Right | |||||
V1 | ★★ Dirty Boulevard
| ||||
Umina Riverbed Riverbed Left | |||||
V1 | ★★★ Shaking the Tree
| ||||
Umina The Cape | |||||
V1 | ★ Thin White Line
Climb straight up the thin seam just left of the nose to the orange jug and over the top. FA: Daniel da Silva | ||||
V1 | ★★ Cape Fear
In the scoopy section, climb straight up the good slots and escape slightly right when topping out. | ||||
V1 | ★★ Permission to Land
From the starting break climb directly up the wall through some good in cut edges to top out on the highest point. | ||||
Umina Mantlemania | |||||
V1 | White Whale
Start at the front of the sandy cave on pockets, head across right and up on gastons. Easy Mantle. FA: Nick Kaz, 2000 | ||||
Umina Cut Away | |||||
V1 | ★★ Airborne
| ||||
Umina The Brown Room Brownroom proper | |||||
V1 | ★ Nope Slopes
Find the best holds 1m left of Easy Cheese and go slightly left and up. Sit start. FA: TD, 1999 | 3m | |||
Umina The Brown Room The Grey Area | |||||
V1 | ★★ Real Life
Stand start and up the slab. | 5m | |||
Bouddi National Park Caves Bay | |||||
V1 | Right side twin cracks
Stand Start straight up the right side of the block with the two parallel cracks. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 5 May 2022 | ||||
V1 | Elephant ear left exit
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 5 May 2022 | ||||
V1 | ★ Ear flake
Straight up the ear shaped flake. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 5 May 2022 | ||||
Bouddi National Park Box Head Boulders | |||||
V1 | Boxcar
| 3m | |||
V1 | Juke Box
| 3m | |||
Bouddi National Park Bay side Boulders The Wedding Cake | |||||
V1 | ★ The Best Man
Start on lowest holds and climb up to break before traversing left to arete and heading straight up to topout. Holds on the face are also in. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
Bouddi National Park Bay side Boulders Chocolate Bloc | |||||
V1 | ★ Toblerone
Start as for "Crunchie" and then climb diagonally up and to your left until you reach the crack, then top out. FA: Mikhael D'indy | ||||
V1 | ★★ Top Deck
Same as "Toblerone" but instead of climbing up and out at first crack head diagonally up to the top ledge and traverse to the second crack before topping out. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
Bouddi National Park Bay side Boulders The Dumpling | |||||
V1 | Yum cha
SS at undercut and straight up face without using aretes | ||||
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Red Wall | |||||
V1 | ★★ MasterHarper
Start as M to big jug, but traverse right along thin ledge to jugs and mantle up on flat holds. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V1 | The Other Eden
Left hand end of block, straight up. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering The Top Cave | |||||
V1 | ★ Ginger Bread Man
From a sit start move up the face via some side pulls to finish at the high break. Traverse off right or jump off Start: Sit start just outside the cave on the right hand face near the block on the ground. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Frenchman's Hat | |||||
V1 | Pamplemousse
Sit start on the nose left of the little overhang FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Mar | ||||
V1 | Courthouse
Sit start slightly left of 'Jailhouse' on diagonal break, staying low traverse left around arete and exit up on face. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V1 | ★ Straight Up
| ||||
V1 | Jailhouse
Start around RHS of arete on large hold, and move left through large dish to arete and up. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Psycho Ant Wall | |||||
V1 | ★ Wren's Liver
Sit start the arête and follow the left diagonal line. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Traverse Boulder | |||||
V1 | Wolf Nipple
Start as per TB and CM, but traverse further left again before heading up. Harder top out 1m left of CM. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V1 | Cheeky Midget
Start as per TB, but from low point continue up and left before topping out. Finishes 1.5m further left than TB. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Newtons Laws | |||||
V1 | ★★ Continuous Motion
Start matched on the low left sidepull then continue out right an up to top out. FA: Nathan Hingee | ||||
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Birdman Boulder | |||||
V1 | Calyptorhynchus Banksii
Start on the left arete. Left Hand on rail, right hand on side pull and climb the left face. Boulder behind is not in. FA: Nathan Hingee | ||||
Southern Cousin Limited Options Divinyl's Wall | |||||
V1 | Black Hawk Clown
On the right next to the boulder, straight up. FA: John Hollott, 20 Nov 2018 | ||||
Woy Woy The Fort The Sugar Room | |||||
V1 | ★ Sugar Coated Poon-Tang
| 5m | |||
Woy Woy The Fort lower messiah wall | |||||
V1 | Put your hand up
| ||||
V1 | ★ Toss the Boss
| ||||
V1 | ★ Under my feet
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Trap Door | |||||
V1 | ★★ Pork Rind
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort The love below | |||||
V1 | ★ Do my thang
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Shark boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Direct flake
| ||||
V1 | ★★★ Flake
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Pit lane | |||||
V1 | ★ Con-Rod
| ||||
V1 | Gomez
Up slab in vauge scoop at the corner FA: Daniel da Silva, 2005 | ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Wato's boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ The dipper
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Backgammon table | |||||
V1 | ★ Blend 43
| ||||
V1 | ★ Trojan
| ||||
V1 | ★ Tron
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Casino | |||||
V1 | ★ The argonaut
| ||||
V1 | ★ Crapps
| ||||
V1 | ★ Chiselling Jism
| ||||
V1 | ★ Vegas Wives
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Potato boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Josh's arete sit start
| ||||
V1 | ★★ Poopa troopa
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Roof top | |||||
V1 | ★ Phone home
| ||||
V1 | Don't speak direct
| ||||
V1 | ★ Don't speak
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Grave yard | |||||
V1 | ★ Highly motivated
| ||||
V1 | ★★ Dead sea gull
| ||||
V1 | ★ Muppet
| ||||
Woy Woy Road House Odyssey Block | |||||
V1 | ★★ Afternoon Delight
Climb straight up just left of arete. Start: Standing just left of arete FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Bubble Gum
Take the easy line straight up Start: Standing 2m left of arete FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000 | 3m | |||
Woy Woy Road House Main Wall | |||||
V1 | ★ Childs Play
Start from obvious pocket, make a big move straight up avoiding the juggyness near R/H arete Start: Standing at big pocket near R/H end FA: dan, 2000 | ||||
Woy Woy Road House Press Man Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Sex Socket
A beautiful problem from the obvious hole on the arete. Climb the flake to slopey top out Start: Sit Start on very obvious hole by arete FA: guy??, 2000 | ||||
Woy Woy Road House Baby Block | |||||
V1 | ★ Baby Block
Climb the block from a sit using both aretes Start: Baby bloc boulder. sit start FA: dan, 2000 | ||||
Woy Woy Road House The Alien | |||||
V1 | traverse
traverse entire boulder staying avoiding hands on top. careful of tree | ||||
Woy Woy Road House Sea Creature | |||||
V1 | ★★ Size Matters
Move up then right from the start to top out the easiest way 'bridging the scoop' Start: Sit start on the thin flake as for 'Over the Falls' FA: Dan, 2000 | ||||
V1 | ★ Summon the Kracken
Climb straight up and over past the slopey looking pockets Start: Sit start around the back corner of the block below the slopey pockets FA: Dan, 2000 | ||||
Woy Woy Road House Break Down Lane Right | |||||
V1 | ★★ Streat Neat
smear your way up the cute little blank slab Start: Standing just right of Barry FA: dan | ||||
V1 | ★ Barry in the Break Down Lane
Climb straight up with a beautiful finish Start: Standing at rounded overlap FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000 |