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Routes in Central Coast

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Showing 1,101 - 1,200 out of 1,702 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
20
Joll's Bridge Lower cliffline
20 Woodface Direct

Start Woodface as above. Instead of trending L after the flake crooooze straight up the arete to join original route. Ross Linsley had inadvertently climbed this arete assuming it was Woodface natural line. Same anchors as for Woodface and 'Hang Ten'.

FA: Ross Linsley & Paul Riviere

Sport 35m
20 Woodface

Beautiful open face climbing. Equipped with U-bolts in 2011 by Paul Riv.

  1. 35m (20) Start 4m L of WBF. Bumble up 4m to start up the line of ring bolts. Now up flake then trend L. Just above this traverse R to blunt arete. Cruise up trending L to top. Fixed anchors.

  2. 5m (20) Up rounded arete and crack to top.

FA: Andrew Powell & Tim Maroney, 1993

Sport 40m, 2
20 Two Tribes

Beautiful wall climbing up great rock. Starts up short corner 10m L of the large overhang. Up to break on wall next to ferny ledge, through overlap to horizontal #1.5 & #2 cams. Out an up to bolt via ramp the straight to finish on L side of block. Small cam near top.

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 1
20 Oral Stretch Marks

Starts at the L end of the large overhang. 10m L of HTT. Locate the bolt belay situated up on a ledge in the back of the overhang. Traverse L past 2 bolts then pull through the roof up into a crack on the wall which takes you to the topp. 6 bolts and 2 cams.

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 6
20 Sniffing Dogs

Starts at right side of large cave pass 5 RBs, veering right at end to shared anchors with Rapunzel

FA: ross linsley, andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

Sport 15m
20 Absolute honey

This is the far southern end of the crag. Initialled AH. Up left of cave and flake past 4 RBs to new lower offs. Rebolted by Vanessa Wills 2010

FA: andrew powell & linda leman, 1993

Sport 13m, 4
The Bluffs Right Bluff High Wall
20 Ginger

Start right of pillar & left of corner. Climb straight up arete to crack at top

FA: paul, 2003

Sport 23m
20 Damsel in Distress

Need to take some cams for break. Past the slab section to layback the big flake.

FA: R. Jeffrey & Grant Severn

Sport 20m
20 Mullet Dreaming

Gain triangle ledge, out to small edges then kneebar behind the L of large flake / dihedral

FA: R. Jeffrey, 2003

Sport 22m
Woy Woy Phegans Bay
20 Opium

Below right side of blunt arete at north end of Mohamed Wall. Named for what you'd need if you miss the first clip. 3 BRs, #3.5 friend and wires.

FA: Ross Linsley & Paul Riviere, 1996

Mixed trad 15m, 3
20 B

4m right of arete. Straight up. A little runout.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn & Gordon Porter, 2000

Sport 15m, 4
Deliverance
20 Swampy Cow Corner

Stylish major right facing corner in middle of crag.

Sport 20m, 7
Koolewong Koolewong Crag
20 Daves anchorless route
Unknown 9m
20 Direct start
Unknown 9m
20 Inside left cave arete
Sport 6m
Point Clare Point Clare Crag
20 Line of choke

Last line on the slabs before the arete. Arete is not in.

Sport 12m
20 Daves dinner

First carrot climb on the left.

Sport 12m
20 Fatigued cornchip

2m right of hexylent, Jam and smear your way up the crack definitely a wrestle fest with crux after crux with a super fun kneebar move into mantle and tree as lower off or anchor, top rope access to the right of of climb

FA: Blake Edwards & Miles Jones, 28 Nov 2022

Trad 9m
Popran Leech Bar
20 Still Squirming

Obvious crack to the left of the cave. Lower off at top.

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Trad 21m
Popran
20 Monty
Trad 30m
West Gosford House Of Praise
20 Open your Eyes

2mts R of Blind Faith. Mixed gear. Same anchor as for Blind Faith.

Set: Dave Forbes

FA: Dave Forbes, 2007

Mixed trad 10m, 2
West Gosford Fantasy Lane Area
20 Red light special

Right of the wooden rungs, hard start past 2 bolts to the right of the lower cave. Trend up then right at second higher cave with interesting finish to single U bolt. All carrots.

FA: Jason Piper

Sport 20m, 7
20 Slab Climb variant

Starts at l crack ( H and A) , trending diagonally right to first FH

Sport 20m
West Gosford Amphitheatre
20 Sanities Edge

Left hand variant of slip and Sue, after clipping second bolt step left towards tree and hanging arete then up and back right to shared anchor. Slinging tree is possible

FA: jason piper

Sport 6m, 3
West Gosford Mangina Cave
20 Gravity is a myth
Sport 10m
Way Out West
20 Come On Down

Straight up and a little right, following the crack. Over the top and rap off.

FA: P Riviere, 2009

Sport 7m
V1
Chapman's Hill West wall
V1 Bong Bong

Sit start on short honeycombed boulder next to west wall, up and top out. Left arete in.

Boulder 2m
Chapman's Hill Sunnyvale
V1 Freedom 35

Sit start matched in the undercling. climb up the crack using all faces and holds. Top out.

Boulder 3m
Chapman's Hill The Sietch
V1 Battered Slab

Stand start matched on obvious slanted jug rail, find the easiest path up on jugs to finish up high as for SSSS. Committing finish for the grade.

Set: Michael Velsigne, 6 Oct 2023

FA: Michael Velsigne, 6 Oct 2023

Boulder 2m
The Skillion
V1 The wren

Start on long shelf on cliff side of the boulder. Track shelf to right and then straight up the nose.

FA: Jasper Lunstedt, 25 Sep 2022

Boulder
Brooklyn The Bend
V1 Groove

FA: Stuart Ellis, 2007

Boulder
Umina Pearl Jam Caves
V1 Monster Munch

Fun traverse with one long move.

FA: dan, 2007

Boulder
Umina The Gold Fields The Golden Section
V1 Golden Gay Time

Stand start on the good edge, finish on the jug.

Boulder 3m
Umina Riverbed Riverbed Right
V1 Dirty Boulevard
Boulder
Umina Riverbed Riverbed Left
V1 Shaking the Tree
Boulder
Umina The Cape
V1 Thin White Line

Climb straight up the thin seam just left of the nose to the orange jug and over the top.

FA: Daniel da Silva

Boulder
V1 Cape Fear

In the scoopy section, climb straight up the good slots and escape slightly right when topping out.

Boulder
V1 Permission to Land

From the starting break climb directly up the wall through some good in cut edges to top out on the highest point.

Boulder
Umina Mantlemania
V1 White Whale

Start at the front of the sandy cave on pockets, head across right and up on gastons. Easy Mantle.

FA: Nick Kaz, 2000

Boulder
Umina Cut Away
V1 Airborne
Boulder
Umina The Brown Room Brownroom proper
V1 Nope Slopes

Find the best holds 1m left of Easy Cheese and go slightly left and up. Sit start.

FA: TD, 1999

Boulder 3m
Umina The Brown Room The Grey Area
V1 Real Life

Stand start and up the slab.

Boulder 5m
Bouddi National Park Caves Bay
V1 Right side twin cracks

Stand Start straight up the right side of the block with the two parallel cracks.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 5 May 2022

Boulder
V1 Elephant ear left exit

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 5 May 2022

Boulder
V1 Ear flake

Straight up the ear shaped flake.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 5 May 2022

Boulder
Bouddi National Park Box Head Boulders
V1 Boxcar
Boulder 3m
V1 Juke Box
Boulder 3m
Bouddi National Park Bay side Boulders The Wedding Cake
V1 The Best Man

Start on lowest holds and climb up to break before traversing left to arete and heading straight up to topout. Holds on the face are also in.

Boulder
Bouddi National Park Bay side Boulders Chocolate Bloc
V1 Toblerone

Start as for "Crunchie" and then climb diagonally up and to your left until you reach the crack, then top out.

FA: Mikhael D'indy

Boulder
V1 Top Deck

Same as "Toblerone" but instead of climbing up and out at first crack head diagonally up to the top ledge and traverse to the second crack before topping out.

Boulder
Bouddi National Park Bay side Boulders The Dumpling
V1 Yum cha

SS at undercut and straight up face without using aretes

Boulder
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Red Wall
V1 MasterHarper

Start as M to big jug, but traverse right along thin ledge to jugs and mantle up on flat holds.

FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000

Boulder
V1 The Other Eden

Left hand end of block, straight up.

FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000

Boulder
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering The Top Cave
V1 Ginger Bread Man

From a sit start move up the face via some side pulls to finish at the high break. Traverse off right or jump off

Start: Sit start just outside the cave on the right hand face near the block on the ground.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

Boulder
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Frenchman's Hat
V1 Pamplemousse

Sit start on the nose left of the little overhang

Boulder
V1 Courthouse

Sit start slightly left of 'Jailhouse' on diagonal break, staying low traverse left around arete and exit up on face.

FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000

Boulder
V1 Straight Up
Boulder
V1 Jailhouse

Start around RHS of arete on large hold, and move left through large dish to arete and up.

FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000

Boulder
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Psycho Ant Wall
V1 Wren's Liver

Sit start the arête and follow the left diagonal line.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

Boulder
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Traverse Boulder
V1 Wolf Nipple

Start as per TB and CM, but traverse further left again before heading up. Harder top out 1m left of CM.

FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000

Boulder
V1 Cheeky Midget

Start as per TB, but from low point continue up and left before topping out. Finishes 1.5m further left than TB.

FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000

Boulder
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Newtons Laws
V1 Continuous Motion

Start matched on the low left sidepull then continue out right an up to top out.

Boulder
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Birdman Boulder
V1 Calyptorhynchus Banksii

Start on the left arete. Left Hand on rail, right hand on side pull and climb the left face. Boulder behind is not in.

Boulder
Southern Cousin Limited Options Divinyl's Wall
V1 Black Hawk Clown

On the right next to the boulder, straight up.

FA: John Hollott, 20 Nov 2018

Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort The Sugar Room
V1 Sugar Coated Poon-Tang
Boulder 5m
Woy Woy The Fort lower messiah wall
V1 Put your hand up
Boulder
V1 Toss the Boss
Boulder
V1 Under my feet
Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort Trap Door
V1 Pork Rind
Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort The love below
V1 Do my thang
Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort Shark boulder
V1 Direct flake
Boulder
V1 Flake
Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort Pit lane
V1 Con-Rod
Boulder
V1 Gomez

Up slab in vauge scoop at the corner

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2005

Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort Wato's boulder
V1 The dipper
Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort Backgammon table
V1 Blend 43
Boulder
V1 Trojan
Boulder
V1 Tron
Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort Casino
V1 The argonaut
Boulder
V1 Crapps
Boulder
V1 Chiselling Jism
Boulder
V1 Vegas Wives
Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort Potato boulder
V1 Josh's arete sit start
Boulder
V1 Poopa troopa
Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort Roof top
V1 Phone home
Boulder
V1 Don't speak direct
Boulder
V1 Don't speak
Boulder
Woy Woy The Fort Grave yard
V1 Highly motivated
Boulder
V1 Dead sea gull
Boulder
V1 Muppet
Boulder
Woy Woy Road House Odyssey Block
V1 Afternoon Delight

Climb straight up just left of arete.

Start: Standing just left of arete

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Boulder 3m
V1 Bubble Gum

Take the easy line straight up

Start: Standing 2m left of arete

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Boulder 3m
Woy Woy Road House Main Wall
V1 Childs Play

Start from obvious pocket, make a big move straight up avoiding the juggyness near R/H arete

Start: Standing at big pocket near R/H end

FA: dan, 2000

Boulder
Woy Woy Road House Press Man Boulder
V1 Sex Socket

A beautiful problem from the obvious hole on the arete. Climb the flake to slopey top out

Start: Sit Start on very obvious hole by arete

FA: guy??, 2000

Boulder
Woy Woy Road House Baby Block
V1 Baby Block

Climb the block from a sit using both aretes

Start: Baby bloc boulder. sit start

FA: dan, 2000

Boulder
Woy Woy Road House The Alien
V1 traverse

traverse entire boulder staying avoiding hands on top. careful of tree

Boulder
Woy Woy Road House Sea Creature
V1 Size Matters

Move up then right from the start to top out the easiest way 'bridging the scoop'

Start: Sit start on the thin flake as for 'Over the Falls'

FA: Dan, 2000

Boulder
V1 Summon the Kracken

Climb straight up and over past the slopey looking pockets

Start: Sit start around the back corner of the block below the slopey pockets

FA: Dan, 2000

Boulder
Woy Woy Road House Break Down Lane Right
V1 Streat Neat

smear your way up the cute little blank slab

Start: Standing just right of Barry

FA: dan

Boulder
V1 Barry in the Break Down Lane

Climb straight up with a beautiful finish

Start: Standing at rounded overlap

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Boulder

Showing 1,101 - 1,200 out of 1,702 routes.

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