Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Sit start. Right hand on slopey lichen rain just above overhang. Left hand on crimp 30cn diagonally up and left. Feet in break. Move straight up on crimps then mantle. Do not traverse left into jug of Ant Man. Beware that 4th hold is flexing. Likely needs to break then send with what remains. Grade likely to end up around V5 or V6, but would be higher or lower depending on how things play out.

Start matched on the obvious undercling in the dank cavelet. Burly move up to good jams at lip and turn the corner. Will need to build a landing or have moist pads to send. Probably quite hard

Good lowball crouch/sit-start and a long traverse.

Open project. It's a hard start without the tree. Decent crimps in the middle to the razor sharp crux crimps at the top. Top out with slopers then a mantle to DRB. Can easily set up a top rope.

Crux-less, sustained climbing. Start as for SQ for first 4 bolts then trend left to link in to DBP.

Sit start on edge on L side of face. Move up and across with a wide span into R arete. Up arete on sidepulls and crimp to a slopey finish.

Cameron Whycherley

Squat start on good jug flake on right end of face. Traverse left along the crack on slopey underclings, before heading up in middle of face.

Slab climb. Good feet for the start, the crux is up high - stick those feet.

Arete LHS.

Tall featured arête between trees. Classic.

R of the tree starting low off the slopey crimps.

Up just R of the arête on good sidepulls. A little scary.

Alternative start to "Pull Hard". Start just to th left with left-hand sidepull.

Variant of “Snorkel”. Pull left onto face.

Face of boulder only. See also “Face and Arete Variant”.

On hill side of boulder. Sit start with two underclings halfway in roof. Work to quarts vein rail, then to far left edge and jug feature just beyond. Gain lip and topout (can also traverse left on lip and then topout).

Sharp rock. Tape up and brush start holds. Some glass in further than start position to be mindful of.

Same as for SD except that the right wall is IN for feet/hands.

Arete just right of Gecko graffiti. Slopey compression after small edges. Tops after high dark pinch. Harder starting off right edges and traversing into arete.

Start on right side of good rail, big moves to the right and up. Scary top section. Once on top of the ledge, traverse right and downclimb. Located on the left river side.

Start standing on far left arete then traverse into blank appearing slab. Use sequence of thin holds to get into good edges and topout through middle right of boulder. Footwork and hand-eye coordination is key.

These boulders are located above Flume and Uke.

Sit start just to the R of the middle of the face on trio of holds, just L of the mini roof. Traverse L and low along good holds and top out at L arête.

Crouch start L end of river side face. Traverse R, following the beautiful sloped lip around the corner and topping out above the steeper slab.

Cameron Whycherley Jared Tyerman and Farid Borbar

Sit start left under-cling-catch right sidepull. Follow right into layoff features, then trend up through balancy section to lip.

Sit start, moving directly up from the obvious good edge, through the prominent boomerang shaped feature, to top out on crimps over the lip.

Sit start at base of arete on blocky features, up through small slopey edges and better features up high.

Stand start on with obvious ledges. Move up to good edges and into high undercling. Possibly a little height dependent

Extension to Zin's Traverse, starting matched from the arete. Adds a few kinda burly moves. Fun and satisfying traverse.

To the right of “Chilli Omlette”. Stand start with LH on sidepull sloper in the cheesy, water runnel, RH on non-existent “diced bacon” ripple, utilising the obvious “saucy” ledge for feet. Break a slice off, moving up and over the bulge to a gourmet top.

Find purchase on the thin face, use a pebble for your left and up you go

Start matched on good jug. Traverse left without using the lip or anything above it. Top out as for Mike's Mischief.

Sit start on the right. Avoid climbing over the lip and snatch the left side when you get the chance before topping out.

Start with a hand in each of the good cracks, working upwards on good crimps and dodgy feet to an easy mantle top out.

starting on your select choice of crimps and feet on the right corner of the slabby thingo aim true for the "jug" hold

Crouch start right hand good pinch left hand higher crimp using good feet underneath face. Moving slightly left to establish for powerful moves directly up through odd crimps, slopey break, dish crimps and devil horn jugs to the very pinnacle of the boulder resting above, ascending with highly immoral behaviour.

Spoiler alert Beta video of first ascent for those that want the assistance. Good way to see starting position. https://youtu.be/I0RGlU686WA

Stand start with slopey holds and move up.

Sit start wide compression, up the slab.

Sit start opposing side pulls, left hand is low.

Sit start 1.5 metres left of Blockaholic on protruding corner block below vertical seem. Work your way out left on slopey jugs to vertical wall then crank up on pockets and crimps. Finish on big right hand pocket about in line with Blockaholic's finishing hold.

B9 in Dazza's guide. Originally finished by traversing to the right.

Traverse both ways. Follow the crack seam under the rooflet. Graded 3 in the original guide. Current V grade is interperated.

Start as for It's So Dirty Low Sit and traverse across the lip. Mantle left of Mega Mantle.

Early mantle on Mega Mantle is a bit easier but sweet.

Sit start.

2 stars - A great Auburn River line. Very height dependant.

Start: About the same as for TCFR. Bolts + trad.

1. 45m 17 - From large tree left of a large right leaning corner crack, up steep slab trending right to the orange wall and DBB at overhanging corner.

2. 25m 22 - Up steeply into corner (careful of loose blocks), first bolt is high & natural placements available pretty sustained up corner then onto face following bolts to DBB. The best pitch!

3. 25m 23 A1 - Up face small cam placement in crack on left, trend right towards overhang (very tricky moves through the overhang) follow to the large ledge with a tree and DBB. (This pitch is run out and will need another bolt after the lip of the overhang)

4. 25m 21 - Follow BRs to DBB. You’ll need a dozen brackets for this pitch. (pitch 3 not free as yet & open to anyone)

Start in the rainforest just L of the big tree, 50m R of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

Named after the camera that failed the test.

1. 35m (23 M1) Climb to the overhang at 5m, first bolt is out on the lip. Aid move M1 (bolt) to overcome the lip. Free to the bulge, aid through the bulge M1 (4 bolts) to gain the rock above the bulge, free up to and through the next bulge to the hanging belay. U bolt & bolt belay.

2. 15m (19) Up trending R, then trending L to hanging belay at the bottom of a corner system and big pocket. U bolt belay, also small pro if desired e.g. #2 Rock.

3. 15m (23) Straight up the slab to the overlap blocks, very airy position, watch for rope drag, slab finish. U bolt & bolt belay.

4. 35m (20) Layaways, crimps and mantles with heaps of atmosphere. Go up and over the ledgy top to rings 21, 22 & 23.

Start as for Ruby Of India. Established ground up.

1. 25 m Up ruby 15m till behind pinacle. Left and up across wall to gain crack on left above tree, Up corner crack till able to belay Below steepening.

2. 30 m Left through overhanging scoops to runnel on left passing 3 fixed runners. Up to crack passing 3 more fixed runners. then left with growing pump to crack, runner possible, up to belay on grassy ledge.

3. 50m Right from belay. Up weakness till able to walk left. Up trending right passing 2 fixed runners. continue up through hanging corner to slab above. Sustained climbing to belay.

4. 35m. Right to touch Ruby of India where ruby goes right from crack. Continue up crack passing old peg. High runners in crack, then move left to gain horizontal rail. Pull up to crack above and ooze your way upwards till able to move left through hanging corner. Position Position Position. Continue upwards with some shoulder mobility moves to belay at small tree on shattered ledge.

5. 55m Up on trending right, following obvious weakness, till able to walk across slab to gain wide crack on left. Up this the continue to top.

We don't think you need a six but don't take our word on it.

Not here or retroed?

Nice climbing on thin holds leading up to an exciting crux.

A proud line in a super exposed spot with picturesque views. A mega adventure on excellent rock well wroth the hour and a half walk in.

P1) 18m still needs to be freed over hanging 4-6 crack take minimum of three to four number 4 two number 5 and one number 6 beware of knife cutting crack edges, one FH at top leads to semi hanging DBB. will go between 20-25 ranges. (open project)

P2) 25m 23 The money pitch a slightly over hanging pitch following 10 FH to a semi hanging DBB. Mega!

P3) 17m 22 traverse right and low for 3 FH (hard to reach third clip unless you clip from hidden jug on the arete) to reach the areate up areate and slab to a comfortable belay hole and DBB.

P4) 20m 17 follow the 10 FH up slab to DBB.

P5)20m 4 bridges the gap and scramble to the top to a DBB.

Walk off.

Start on right side of obvious arete move up arete to finish. (Large flake on left is loose) Will require long anchor set-up

Shares the first six bolts of Spookeye pitch 3. Instead of traversing R, the line continues straight up directly through the rooflet. Quest up to the mini-cave where you strike a golden rest before the final challenging moves to the anchor jugs. Stay clear of the suspect blocks directly up and above the anchors. There's gold in them hills!

Up the ramp to steep and funky orange groove.

Traverse right from 'Maid in France' anchor then up exposed finish.

Up balancy face, then choose to quest up the groove or the often wet crack. Pull over bulge, then tiptoe up enjoyable slab to anchors. Permadraw at bulge to help when cleaning.

Starts down L from SAS and L of the spiky tree.

1. 35m (~22) Climbs up and then crosses over through the first pitch of SAS, through a small rooflet to the chains. The rest of the route will finish up R of the Saint.

Project: Joe Kippax 10/98.

Starts ~30m above ground at the blunt arête L of the 3rd pitch of Vision. The route with the ugly brown carrots. Bolt brackets and good judgement regarding the bolts is required.

Start at ramp and up through boulder problem to lower-off DRB. If you use the ramp on left it's an 18.

Really good and solid for the grade. Starts at the R hand end of the arch. A bouldery start then up and R to the roof. The nut on the bolt above the roof maybe loose. Diagonally L to the massive chains.

Classic thin finger-crack in largest of several rocky outcrops on hill at south end of Alma Bay beach (right hand side of the bay as you look out to sea). Goes up the side facing the ocean. Located at -19.148893, 146.868235

Follow the crack, sounds easy enough... Lots of fuss to get not very far. The crack all the way to Preapologised, finishing up it. Gets all day shade.

Joins briefly into the Golden ticket finish jug and then traverses out right and up the magical headwall for a fairy-tale finish!

Ventures through the overhanging roof.

Originally went R to the top through the splitter crack. Much more pleasant to repeat using the added bolts and the anchor located under the roof.

Climbs up the exposed and bouldery arete.

Finger crack with a cruxy start which is protected by a bolt and located on the sloping ramp. U bolt anchor.

After 1st 3 bolts trends left. A slabtastic finish and a must do for any slab connoisseur!

Shares same finish as Pressure Drop.

The fig tree at the start is in. Trend slightly left at the roof below the anchor for finish crux to anchor jugs.

Flows nicely on crimpy solid rock.

Punchy boulder crux.

Starts at ledge with chains, up and L round arete to ledge. Up steep face (3 FH's) and R to intermittent crackline. Belay off one FH and cam above the detatched block. Sustained and solid for the grade.

Shares the first 2 RB of Equilibre Instable extended the second RB, then Traverse left to line of FH's. Short but punchy with heart breaker to finish.

1. 30m 23. Climb Siddhartha 7m to ledge. Traverse left to crack and then up to large, sloping ledge and DBB.

2. 8m 20. Obvious corner to chain.

A remarkable climb with an overhanging, under-cling traverse half way. Start 2m L of the base of FC. Move up through the vertical crack system to the over hang. Move L out of the crack into the under-cling traverse. Traverse 4m L then continue through easier climbing.

Starts 8m R of BMUS. The second pitch draws the stars.

1. 30m 21. Up the ledgy face and over the roof to join the crack above. Follow the crack to the sloping ledge and DBB.

2. 35m 23. Up the R side of the face with the DBB to gain the base of the green slab. Up the slab to the small tree and psyche up for the fabulous technical corner above which ends at a DBB.

3. 15m 13. Easy climbing to the top where a small face leads to a DBB.

Starts at the crack 3m R of PU (often vegetated).

1. 25m (18) Up the slabby crack (may be vegetated) to dirty ledge. Move R into the cleaner twin cracks and up to the sloping ledge and DBB (2 carrot bolts).

2. 25m (22) Head up the face with growing concern to the intimidating V-funnel (2 carrots). Take a few deep breaths and blast up this where some very clever moves will see you to a small ledge on the R to DBB (2 carrots).

3. 25m (23) Silly traverse directly R around the corner from the DBB to gain the base of the overhung corner. Climb this until it fades away to rest at the shark's fin then move R onto the perfect stone of the exposed arête (best positions ever!) passing 3 carrots to the DBB (2 carrots).

"Mega classic featuring radical exposure and positions" - Scott Johnson's 1992 guide.

The direct finish starts at end of "Rear Window" P1. Climb straight up.

Starts about 15m R of RS and before the track dips to a small off-vertical wall. It's the narrow wall which changes aesthetically from green, the slabby part, to black to orange, the steep part, and then a roof. 6 FH and natural gear; 2 FH's on top.

Starts R of the fig roots under a small orange section of face.

1. 20m 18. Up the mixed face to a small bulge (3 FH's) & over to a slab with scattered RP placements (easy climbing). Continue on to DBB on the R of the horizontal break.

2. 18m 22/23. Technical face climbing. Keep in contact with the fused seam which opens up occasionally for finger &/or gear. Veer slightly R for the cruxy exit. 3 FH's & lots of small wires.

The overhanging finger crack around the corner from Trespass P2 at the L end of the ledge and L of the descent gully.

Brilliant. Up BM to its 2nd bolt then straight up past the FHs. Traverse L at the steepness and finish as for BM. Has been done direct also.

Initialised.

A fairly serious lead particularly at the top. Start up YL or A if you want. Take the thin diagonal, moving R to a juggy flake and up to finish. Take RPs and cams to #3.

A sustained thin crack, often seeps after rain. Start directly below the crack, a step down from the main ledge.

A bouldery direct start to any of the 3 previous routes. Up to the 1st bolt, over the roof and diagonally past it. Don't fall clipping the 2nd bolt as you may hit the tree.

Start as BOMF, following line of bolts trending right and finishing up AF. Unsure of grade, so if you get on it please list what you think it is.

A mega pump. 10 R of TGE, at the base of the corner, at the boulder choked chimney. Straight up to the rooflet and bolt (take care and RPs) straight up past another carrot and cruxy bulge to intersect the diagonal crack where it goes vertical. Up the balancy crack.

Start on "Fist Full of Ants"and move right to the arete (using trad pro) then up through two small roofs then up finger flake on the right past 3 carrots to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Start on "Fist Full of Ants" (use trad pro in crack) up to the roof then climb to the right past the roof onto face, past two carrots then finishing on "Fist Full of Ants" last fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Start on "Wimps in the Gym" to the roof then follow the crack through roof and up the face to finish. Small pro useful on the top section. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

This is simply a continuation of 'Twister'. Climb the sustained crack of twister then continue up the tricky face. The route veers diagonally up and right past two carrots then to "Wimps in the Gym" 's last fixed hanger bolt. It is also possible to avoid the initial crack of twister by approaching from the ledge at Rude Awakening. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

A small but demanding climb follow the crack up the dihedral past two carrots, then start moving to the left onto slopers then top out. (Can be top roped of double bolts at top of climb)

A classy variant of NSG. Starts 20m L of SL. Take it to the roof and the groove then move R onto the ledge above the roof. Up the clean thin corner joining NSG near the top. 1 BR near the top.

Starting at the anchors of Divine Balance. Climbs the obvious hanging arete L of DB. Tricky moves to start followed by sustained climbing up the arete passing 5 FHs, take small wires for the top out.