Routes in Sutherland for selected grade

Start at left side of Arête

Start at Time spent taken needing small and offset protection up and over the overhang and finish up on TST's anchors

Loose and blocky. Start on left side of face, 2m right of arete. Up slab to steeper wall with easy finish. Glue in BRs to DBB.

Climb as you like straight up or to the left or right of the climb

Around 15m further right from Fixed Firmament. Mid wall, up seam and breaks to ledge with old stump. Squeeze up between blocks to tree belay. Old carrots. Bit loose, lots of funnelwebs. Could go on gear?

Start: Left of R. Up tending right (4 BRs).

Offwidth in the middle of the main wall. Hand/fist for days with some ok feet thrown in. Top out to the left of overhanging block. Sling around tree back and to right for rapping off. Placed 09/2021. Tom Bes

Start: 30m left of main wall. 2 BRs to lower off. Not as hard as it looks.

Start 1m left of MacGuyer, up. Nice but tiny. Soloed then bolted.

Start: small corner at right end of wall, up and leftwards up scooped arete to double rings. 5 rings.

Traverses right from the Fabulous Muppet show top anchors. Top out from top of triangle roof. A bit convoluted but would be great multi pitch practice on Trad gear. Take a No. 3 cam and one or two micro cams. Check top is clean, covered in leaves when I did it. You can pull your gear from above.

3m R of Breaking Good in middle of wall, 3m L of seam (Gushing Knees). Step off short persons cheater rock on first ledge (clip 1st bolt with a single screwgate to limit fall distance and unclipping) and up and head left. Slight runout to the anchor.

About 35m R of the main wall at a left facing orange corner. Easy start and up into nice corner. Pop out of the corner and up the nice headwall. All new RB's in 2014.

Clip first bolt on 'SJ' then up rightwards thru the bulges.

Start at right end of cave, at right side of small trees sitting against the rock, 4m R of Sideline Jack. Up. Another nice warmup.

Good fun sport route up the right side of the grid bolted face, and just left of major corner. Starts with a short finger crack then face to top. Single large U-bolt lower anchor.

Fun steep route on far left end of cave with very high first bolt. Stick-clip it! Clipping the anchors is probably the crux, especially if you are short.

Starts just right of the detached block, below a small, bulgy black wall. Up (RB and FH) to BB.

Start on block under low roof. Up and out the left hand side of the steep prow (3 FHs), then up the easy sandy slab above (dodgy BR) to double BB belay.

Start just round the corner of LGR off detached block. Chin undercut start and follow crack (3 BRs). First move is hard.

Also excellent! Up right side of bulging slab. Use the arete to start then go left onto slab. 3 BRs to triple BB.

Contrived but engaging. Follow 3 BRs (staying left of the crease) to a double BB belay up on top of the cliff (or lower off BRs on ledge 2m lower down).

Start: 1m right of StN

Start: Inside cave at left-hand corner crack. Follow crack all the way to roof (mid-sized cams), then out and up. DBB at top set back and to the right.

Up short seam (dodgy micro wires), then up wall (FH) and arete to double BB.

Start: Right side of arete.

Needs one more bolt at the start RB1 to finish it..

Start at the crack overhang crux and traverse right up the arete and finish at anchors. If you take the face right side of RB, add another grade... 19

Hard start, crux is getting past the first RB. Good technique is needed.

Tricky start with an easy top out or traverse to the left to ring bolts on Barry's climb

Start on horns before dyno to lip of arete. Mantle top out

An interesting Vee-crack followed by a flared bottomless offwidth. Take a #4 and #5 cam for the top. Double U bolts to lower off or belay on top of the pinnacle.

If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' bolting, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The apparent grade depends a lot on when you started climbing: if you started in the 60s it's be 10; 70s = 13, 80s = 14. This century somewhere between 16 and 20. The obvious left leaning chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chockstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose....

Start up GOOT or 'Vitez' (trad) and traverse left in break at 10m then finish up Retro Crack (rings).

Start in the corner crack 1 m Right of Get out of Town. Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again (past Medieval Remedies) to face climb past RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off. According to the 1991 Rock Magzine guidebook to Sydney - this was actually the original finish to Get Out of Town!

Start as for Vitez. Follow this up to pea pod, at the left hand flake bust out right above Inchworm Groove anchors and take the two ringbolts above (extend last piece and the runners along traverse). Finish up the headwall dihedral on small gear to take the anchors above and right at the top of the cliff (Top of Nats Mega Proj). Fun mix of crack, slab and face climbing.

Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs.

Start: 5m right of Ms Pat.

Climb up onto the hollow sounding flake past a bolt then the slab above using friction smearing: "nose over toes, rubber on the rock, stand up straight". If you're leaning over clutching at crystals or desperately hauling with your hands you're making it harder than it is.

Start 2 metres right of Monopoly: Climb into the scoop and comfortably clip the RB. Friction up the slab to reach sloping holds, continue smearing upwards and mantle shelf onto the holds. Stand up and clip the next RB. Move left to lower off Monopoly Both Monopoly & Trivial Pursuit are both excellent practise pieces for the harder slab climbs to the left. 10 metres to the right of these climbs is a pathway that descends to Angels Buttress and also another pathway upwards that joins the Cathedral descent path. To reach the Cathedral descent path climb upwards 10 metres right of Trivial Pursuit and follow the yellow and white insulation tape bands to reach the main access path

Fun layback. Named after the hole at the base where I lost a brand new Miura. Start 20m R of Trivial Pursuit and 1m left of 'Oh the Humidity" at wide crack.

The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Step in from right. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Tourniquet

Just like goodbyes, not all that pleasant. Shallow flaring double crack system into a chimney top. FA used a #7 as first piece, a #6 would go one move higher. Tree anchor.

Around the corner from Egg Rings. Grade due to the thin start.

Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off. Easy top out and set up an abseil on the rings 2m back

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread in the middle. Up past giant thread (don't thread in case it breaks), then up to clip-and-go lower-off. For the full value tick mantle out onto the top and belay off u-bolts a few metres back. Rebolted 2015.

start 1m L of Dorothy May. Jump from boulder to jug just right of crack (Lean Too) and up. 3 rings and lower-off. Previoulsy bolted on coach screws, rebolted Nov 2016

Crack R of Hobbit Nose with a blank section up high. Take cams

Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two more Ubolts to lower-off. Harder first moves then easy top.

Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.

Bouldery start with surprisingly tricky top out. Start on ground, not rock on the left. Unless you want to.

Up crack 1.5m left of ST, then up of blunt arete.

On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 Ubolts to lower-off up and right.

Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.

As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave to give it a punchy and fun start.

Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.

Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing.

Tricky! Start by climbing directly up arete and continue up past 3 Ubolts to lower off.

Boulder problem start to Zip from under roof

Start on other side of block near gully. one carrot

Start on left of crack and up to lower off.

Wide roof crack mini route that requires nearly zero off-widthing!

Can be done either as a trad route (protect with 1-2 size 6s) or as a high ball boulder.

Left most route, facing the cliff. A bit lame, but still fun. Great newbie climb. Beware of soft and lose sandstone. Much deterioration on this climb.

Up dirty looking crack to slopers. Committing finish.

Unknown, supposed to be 55m R (west) of Screaming Pretty with bolt pro.

Right side of buttress, starting at right facing corner. Tricky start then heaps of slopers right to the top. Surprisingly tricky.

Start on high wall up and left of A Close Shave.

Start at lip of the boulder cave, pulling up just below first bolt. Up and slight left.

Sit start with L hand in beautiful side pull just R of Pristine Slab holds. Palm down low with right and move up the middle face

The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish - stay left unless you want to get sandbagged.

Another slabby wall with a FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.

The nice slab in the middle of the wall, with three ring bolts to a lower-off

Big wide rounded crack splitting right side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay left up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.

Did you know that the first European settlers burnt most of Sydney's Aboriginal oyster shell middens to make cement? Start just right of Aardvark and climbs juggy steep scoop feature. Finish right up to the top of the cliff to lower-off anchor. All ringbolts.

The rock inside the steep scoop is fragile and can break. Be cautious.

Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. 4 u-bolts and single giant u-bolt lower-off.

A dirty and vegetated seam crack 5m left of Centopah. Yum.

Good fun when it's not wet. Start 1m right of MotN scoop, below thin flake. Up the flake then mantle up to ledge and large rap chain. Looks dirty but is actually quite clean.

Left side the sccop with a reachy move up high and a big tree right behind.

sit start with a hand in each break on low slab. stand up and gain big rail. Move up and right to top out.

Start below the highest part, about 2m R of a chimney. Up to Ubolt (on EE) then the head left to cave (clip Ubolt and fixed hanger) and up through the overhang.

Start 2m R of chimney below highpoint of crag. Up past bolt to ledge (extend bolt under lip), left a bit after roofs then finish left.

Up ramp corner system to ledge then thru roofs about a metre R of Emu's Paradise and up crack past ring at top (short draw or screwgate as it's a bit low) to an awkward topout.

Below arete at right hand end of crag. Good moves past 3 FHs.

Juggerlicious up high. Face just right of Kaching then right to steep juggy prow. Finish left along horizontal flake above roof to chain anchor. You can even topout if you wish.

Super fun, up and veer rightwards to rooflet and crack above.

Start up 'Lovin' Lockdown' for 3 bolts then left up to corner crack.

Easiest route at the crag (that doesn't involve a rap in). A fun route up a waterwashed groove and juggy roof. Starts 50m left of Yo! Don Bosco, starting on higher terrace just right of small tree growing against rock.

Sit start with left in the pocket and right in the underling. Right one move wonder to the top and don't forget to say "Yeehaw!" As you mantle.

Lowish start under low right hand arete with left hand in sidepulls. Move up and left to the middle of the face, then up. Sit start variant: Start matched on the right hand arete/undercling. Awkward thrutchy move to the pocket sidepull probably adds a grade.

Start right of 'Stay Alive', but instead of following the flake, just head straight up on a blank wall of nothing. Only been top roped... for now.

The right arete. Mixed line to chain belay

Left arete starting above the rusty metal. Up the arete, trying to stay away from OOW. New stainless u bolt lower offs 2021.

two meters left of DTE below the corner. Up the vegetated corner, then up the much better headwall

Just left of the steep gully

Up the orange streak in the middle of the wall

straight up past single bolt

Left of Pyro. 3RB’s to Lower Off. Rad !! Rebolted 2021

4m to the right of DT, climb up face, without using any of the holds on DT. At 2nd RB move to the right and up to shared lower off with 'Fatboy'. Rebolted 2021