Few things, it's pretty fucking rad to get a feel for the history of the cliff and do the original route. It is loose, long, natural and absolutely Alpine. An awesome adventure that tests your ability to stay calm in shit situations and just get the job done. Soooo much crap rock and actual danger in the climb so if you're just climbing 20 you need to steer clear. It's several hundred metres of do not fall for you or your second with some real spicy bits whether you're on route or not!
Loved it, happy to get out alive and probably wouldn't recommend it to others.
Some route finding beta:
For pitch 7 when you wander right to avoid the "steep stuff" you end up at a beautiful red wall with a few bolted routes. Once you see this, traverse left to a crack you can see on the left of the wall which is part of a kind of pillar. Go up this and there's an anchor there if you want to stop for rope drag or head right up a ramp for the finish of pitch 7 and start of pitch 8
For the final pitch, REALLY recommend bringing a massive hex to protect the final moves on garbage mud style rock. If not you're risking it all with your last bit of hear over 10m away around a corner on rock that crumbles in your hand.
PS there is an unmentioned 23~ crux at the start of the 7th pitch and whilst I managed to free the aid section, felt a lot harder than 23
Overall, psyched and humbled by the rad Alpine adventure 😊
Few things, it's pretty fucking rad to get a feel for the history of the cliff and do the original route. It is loose, long, natural and absolutely Alpine. An awesome adventure that tests your ability to stay calm in shit situations and just get the job done. Soooo much crap rock and actual danger in the climb so if you're just climbing 20 you need to steer clear. It's several hundred metres of do not fall for you or your second with some real spicy bits whether you're on route or not! Loved it, happy to get out alive and probably wouldn't recommend it to others.
Some route finding beta:
For pitch 7 when you wander right to avoid the "steep stuff" you end up at a beautiful red wall with a few bolted routes. Once you see this, traverse left to a crack you can see on the left of the wall which is part of a kind of pillar. Go up this and there's an anchor there if you want to stop for rope drag or head right up a ramp for the finish of pitch 7 and start of pitch 8
For the final pitch, REALLY recommend bringing a massive hex to protect the final moves on garbage mud style rock. If not you're risking it all with your last bit of hear over 10m away around a corner on rock that crumbles in your hand.
PS there is an unmentioned 23~ crux at the start of the 7th pitch and whilst I managed to free the aid section, felt a lot harder than 23
Overall, psyched and humbled by the rad Alpine adventure 😊