Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Taipan style! Starts 5m left of Popeyed at scoopy overhung wall. Technical climbing up scoop past three FHs leads to jugs and cave rest. Blast up reachy wall above past last FH and head left to chain.

A very height dependent grade and a killer line right up the centre of the main wall. Starts up ringbolts just right of terror of sea.

Bouldery start, sustained crimpy middle. Lotsa bolts! Starts about 2m right of 'Wellington Wimpy'.

The massive boulder opposite the Tower now has 3 bolts up an tricky array of slab moves to reach horizontal. Until someone places another bolt, take a couple of large nuts and/or a medium sized cam to protect the easier upper section. Lower-off.

Down and right of the Possum Rocks cave, there is a great 4-5m high pocketed boulder. This is the left line.

Located on north facing main wall with a large scooped base. Malcolm forgot his harness and had to belay Neil's dogging efforts with a sling around his waist! Three FHs up right leading steep scoops to gain broken crackline. Up this with fiddly trad pro to committing top out up grey wall.

Two FHs then rightwards diagonal fingercrack. Bolted by Kent in the pouring rain using a manky sling as a harness. Hangers were recycled from one of Brookies past glories at Camels Hump. Route was abandoned to the elements for three years and finally climbed by Neil.

So named because the FA had to get water by swimming out into a billabong and got mighty muddy! Palmistry at its best. Blank corner and right facing layback flake opposite main section of Peasant Wall. Stem up to short crack opening (#1 SLCD) then boldly up with nigh all handholds to FH. Lunge out rightwards with nigh all footholds to thank-god layback flake. Up this easily to ledge and lower-off anchor.

Follows the obvious rib to a tricky finish.

The second pitch has runout hard climbing. Objective danger in the form of a giant spider may be encountered on the final pitch.

Start: Start at the hand-crack 4 metres left of Passport To Insanity.

1. 35m (24) Overhanging hand-crack then the thinner crack to a stance at the bottom of a right-leading flake-line.

2. 35m (23) 'Layback' up the flake and then climb diagonally left across the bulging wall to a ledge on the arete. Step left around the arete and then go up the wall above to the second belay of Passport To Insanity.

3. 30m (20) Go diagonally left to a thin crack. Climb this and then move horizontally left to a blocky ledge. Finish strsight up the wall to the top.

Sustained with sinker wires. Start behind clump of callitris 5m right of cleft seperating right and left walls. Bouldery start past FH to gain crack proper. Up on good finger locks to horizontal break.Traverse right 3m then up over bulges.

Great climbing on excellent rock. Starts 3m right of blunt arête. Boulder start to gain crack (protected with a good, shallow wire at full stretch). Bomber gear and sustained climbing to below roof. Committing pull past bulge via crimps in the black streak to good #2 camalot placement.

Impressive roof climb in a truly spectacular setting.

Start from back of block (FH) at end of pinnacle.

Up corner to ledge. Step R then up bulges to rest. Step up to FH then monkey R on unexpected buckets. Turn the roof at scoop. Swing R to finish up white water wash then slightly L to RB lower off (note: near 50m lower off to top of pinnacle - tie rope end to belay FH).

Start 5m right of Smokin' Guns. Up cruxy wall past five FHs to rings.

Probably needs some bolts. Has only been top-roped. Wall right of Free To Good Home, keeping close to right arete.

Sustained and technical climbing on Arapiles type rock. Starts 3m left of Iron Lady.

Climb the creases past a FH to the DBB. Take small and medium wires and small cams.

Short bouldery section past RB.

Leftmost thin diagonal, 6 metres left of Give Me AIDS

A bouldery link-up of The Generator Route * 22 and The Extension Lead * 18. Climb The Generator Route and continue straight up the orange bulge past 2 FHs to join The Extension Lead at its (now) second FH on the arête. 8 FHs in total. (DRB anchor added as of March 2024 - ignore the fixed hanger and sheath, to be removed soon)

A clever link up that takes in the best parts of two great routes. Endurance climbing on great rock.

Start as for Careful With That Axe Liam.

A single rope will suffice if you take a few 60cm draws. Climb to the 4th FH, then traverse right 5m past FH to join Curiosity. Continue up past 2 more FHs to break. Back left for 2m then finish up past 3FHs as for Curiosity.

Right side of scoops, 6 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 4m right of Tarzan's Swing.

Start at orange corner 15 metres left of Bushwalking In The Gramps.

Corner to roof and move right to easy ground

Left facing blank corner then bulging face above with crazy fist jam crux in pocket. A bit dirty. Crux can be avoided by climbing right into 'Forbidden Fruits' at grade 23. Six bolts and lower-off.

Start Up Blood letter to the third bolt then head straight up past 3 more fixed hangers to a double bolt belay on a ledge.

Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier. Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off.

Outrageous positions up the crazy giant plates on the left side of the ledge. Finish up headwall (out of sight of the belayer). 7 RBs.

Unrelenting steepness. Start at the impressive pillar of prehistoric birdpoo. Scuttle left and out through roof and up endless jugs and steepness above past a few giant heucos. 6 FHs.

A wild dyno! Slopey orange goodness from start to finish up the giant heucos. 5 FHs. Starts 2m left of Nicea.

Seamed corner right of "Me Old Mate Darth", then wall to overlap. Step right onto slabby dish and up.

An entertaining problem with an exciting finish; cruelly stolen from Ferret.

Start at the steep flake on the left side of the overhanging wall left of the obvious chimney/cleft.

tart up the flake and finish up the thin seam.

Somewhat contrived.

Bridge the cleft right of Bad Boys for a few moves then traverse left along the horizontal (peg runner) to finish as for Bad Boys.

Direct start to Snail and improves the line immensely. Takes 3 FH left off the ledge and up to join the line (wires and small cams required).

Not bad. Starts up the L side of the wall and climbs direct to cave / roof. Step R, then blast up wall to FH and desperate moves to gain final groove.

Steep and strenuous. Line in middle of wall past bulge, finishing up right-hand weakness.

Excellent and sustained. Start right of G.I. Joe at grey streaks. Up past BR to flat-top and PR (good idea to clip the bolt on Desert Storm from here). Continue up wall to horizontal break. Move left and pull through to next horizontal. Left again then up short crack, moving right and up to ledge.

A wild outing. Start at the bottom of the wall directly below roof. Up to hanging corner and up overhanging arete above (4 FH). Easier climbing after the ledge.

Grotty black central groove. A wire up high can also be useful.

In the middle of the cliff is a tree growing out of the cliff. Up past PR and double BR to easy ground.

Don't trust the pitons. Step out above the cave immediately right of Cloud Nine past PR and straight on up the wall to another horizontal (cloud nine). Up to another piton and left to good hold on the nose, then up.

Cloud Nine direct. Start as per Welsh Grabbit then go right and up and through overhang past piton. Then up wall to join Cloud Nine on ledge. Sustained, difficult climbing, and in it's current state (2021) this at least an R rated grade 26 if you're going ground up.

Spectacular with outrageous situations, and best done in one pitch. Equipped with a mix of rings and FHs, supplement with a full rack of cams.

Starts a few metres left of IHTR. Can also start up RR.

Pull onto shelf and traverse left to blocks. Up to stance below hanging jug (often sandy). Into shallow hanging corner, then continue up and right to overhang and a rest (original route belayed here). Make an exposed traverse leftwards, going straight up at incut jug to finish at lower-offs (27m to the ground).

An unlikely line that features a fierce crux at the end.

Start as for 'Begegnung'; at the bolt follow the horizontals rightwards (a bit up and down) for about ten meters to an obvious corner which you move up for a move or two, then step right again past another little corner onto a rest, before finishing easily to rap anchor.

The machine gun is beautiful. An excellent start leads to a finish where the crux seems to be avoiding the neighbouring routes.

The leftmost route on the wall starts from the ledge above the waterfall with a powerful undercut start. Climb past five FHs to reach the dyke, then head diagonally leftwards (ie climb above the dyke, but don't get drawn to the bolt above - that is for 'The Gloaming') past a couple of small cam placements to the anchor.

An alternative finish is to head straight up from the dyke (past a 0.4 camalot placement) to join the last 2 FH of 'The Gloaming'.

Starts in the middle of the wall off a big rock. Up past a FH, to another FH in the dyke, left to the next FH (still in the dyke), then move up and left past three more FHs and the anchor of 'Mitra e Bello'.

A bit unlikely. Start at the same spot as Horizon, but blast straight up past three FHs and natural gear to anchor at top. Might be harder than 24 for shorties.

Might be the crack on the Arete - would be sensational except for the grade 30 move past the fixed pin. Perhaps 24 if if you pull on the pin?

Traverse left off Block at R end of Ramp, then overhang to a small ledge. Then straight up wall past a BR.

Start on low flat jug, move through crimps and large side pull to jugs and drop off.

3 metres up hill from Anteloped (past chimney) sit start with right hand on dish on face, and left in low finger lock. Make powerful moves into crack and finish on juggy slot.

Sit start left L hand crimp and R on side pull. Up through diagonal on opposing holds into large jug. Drop off.

Start on crimp rail, and head right to slopers and up and over big break.

Start matched on slopey rail, make tricky move to flat ledge and top out. A true one move wonder.

Let down your hair... But don't punt off the top! Climb on tall arête through jugs and seams. Make committing mantle over the lip.

Sport route with Hard first move. Start 5m left of Mothers Day project off Ledge. Mantle onto small ledge then up arete trending right, over small roof and up to Double bolt lower off.

Short thin crack on a separate block closer to the fence. Faces West.

It's good. Stand start with good left hand on top of block, right-hand lower in the curved feature. Dynamically reach rightwards to the seam, delicately transfer over and follow the seam up to the finish.

Unknown climb on face to the left of Cutthroat Crack, line of carrots. Name of climb, FA, and grade are unknown, although some suggest it goes at around 24.

Face of the big boulder right of descent gully at the far right end of the upper tier.

8m right of Champagne And Novocaine. Thin face to FH, then head out through dodgy looking roof flake, and up. Watch where the belayer stands!

Black right-facing arete. Hard moves past two bolts, more hard moves and two more bolts.

Sit start compressed w/ crimp in the roof. Punch up.

Louise

Start down and L of BB. Start below new ring bolt in crack. past RB to horizontal, then climb crack to top.

First grade 24 in Australia.

Quality, clean all-free route up the 'North Wall'. Equipped to rap down/climb out. Finishes in the same spot as Yellow Moon.

Start: Rap off gum to chains at top of wall 50m right (looking out)of Defender rap, where Yellow Moon finishes. Yellow moon rap chains are on steep part of the slab a few metres down from the obvious ledge. 45m rap to DBB (2 carrots on small stance on left side of the big arch), then 50m rap to deck. DBB at base of route, 10 metres downhill from where you land on rap.

1. 25m (20) step right off belay then follow crack up and left to sickle. Belay at DBB. Cams and wires to Camalot#2

2. 25m (24) Step left (bolt)and gingerly into pod below bleached crack of Zeus. Up crack (crux) to stance (bolt). Continue straight up crack past another bolt to belay on stance left of arching roof. 'Small' and medium wires, cams to Camalot#2

3. 45m (23) Up past 4 bolts,left onto large dyke. Up dyke (2 bolts)to re-gain crack. Up (bolt)to left leading ramp. up this past 2 bolts to DBB with chain. Med Wires and Cams to Camalot #2

Technical stemming up obvious corner on the SW arete. Quite good, until it blanks out at the bolt ladder (easily aided).

The prominent right-leaning crack-line with an orange right wall. 15m down L of the original (corner) start of Gaia.

1. 35m (crux). The crack.

2. 50m. The slab on the left.

Access via a 75-80m abseil from chains. This rap station is located beside a huge gum tree that leans out precariously (and no doubt is destined to fall into the depths of the gorge under its own weight), on the rim of the gorge around about 50m (?) around northward and down a little from the north edge of the top of the Queen Victoria buttress. This rap station can be used to access Wall to Wall, Send out for More Pizza, Gaia, White Knuckle Days and Statute of Limitations. The abseil can be broken into two, utilising the double bolt belay at the top of the first pitch of Gaia and WKD. There is now a bolted, independent, direct start to the original version of Gaia, as well as an extra bolt in the top of the first pitch, and two bolts in the top pitch. This new reincarnation provides a more even, sustained, but less death-defying route than the original. The first pitch, in particular, is one to savour. Start at the double hangers, mid-way between the original start of Gaia (in the corner) and White Knuckle Days.

1. 40m. 24. Up via 3 fixed hangers to the steepening. Continue on via 3 more fixed hangers through the crux section, then a high carrot and a more recently added higher fixed hanger to reach the new belay station up right on a blunt nose (the original belay was a further 8m or so up at the base of a short overhanging corner).

2. 35m. 21. Up to and up the overhanging corner crack (takes a few medium cams), then straight up via two bolt-protected bulges to the rap chains.

An exceptional first pitch - sustained, varied and continuously engaging. Access via 80m of abseiling from the top of Gaia (there is a new set of rap chains at the top showing the way. The 80m can be broken into two abseils by using the new belay station 40m down on Gaia, though a single 100m static rope makes life easier and provides a retreat option if required). Starts from the double carrot bolt belay between Gaia and Statute of Limitations (see p112 of the 2006 comprehensive Mt Buffalo guidebook).

1. 45m (24) Follow the bolt runners up the shallow closed corner, trending a little leftward at a couple of overlaps, to join into the top section of the first pitch of Gaia. A carrot bolt then another FH as for Gaia lead to a 2FH belay (up right from the last FH runner, on a blunt nose).

2. 35m (21) Step right and easily up to the base of a slightly overhanging open-book corner (the original belay spot for the top of Gaia’s first pitch). Up this (a few medium cams – gold, red, green and purple Camelots or equivalent - can be placed). Continue straight up via 2 FHs – one at each of two short, steep bulges - to belay at the abseil chains.

Access as for Gaia and White Knuckle Days or by using a sizeable gumtree a little further northward along the gorge rim. Best to leave an abseil rope in place in case retreat needs to be sounded. Start approx 20m right of Gaia (and a few metres around right from the start of White Knuckle days) at a 2BB.

1. 15m (21). Step right into thin crack and up to the belay ledge.

2. 35m (24). Out L (BR), then slab up following 4 more BRs, tending slightly rightward on some beautiful, if disconcertingly polished, rock. Belay off abseil tree.

The R crack-line. Up this. Where it finishes, step R past a BR then up past a FH.

Starts about 6m right of Sultan (a few metres right of the right arete of Sultan's first pitch corner). Up 3m to gain left-leading dykes and so to the hanging groove beside the arete. 2 bolt runners in this section. Up the groove (a few small wires and/or some very small cams would be handy) to the slab above. Up this to step right to a pocket and a nearby bolt then up to the traverse line on the second pitch of Sultan.

Start as for Maharajah LHV Start. Up corner-crack until able to reach L to the steep flake. Up this to easier ground, then into Maharajah.

Quite technical. Start as for Maharajah RHV then up past 4 BRs to abseil ring.

On the buttress down approximately north-easterly below Maharajah, this route starts 5m left of Contact Sport (which, in turn, takes the left arete of Compulsion). Up to the ledge at 4m. Boulder past the bolt runner to the small rising ramp. Move rightward up this to and past the final bolt on Contact Sport.

Start as for Twin Cracks. Climb the first (right) crack of Twin Cracks to a bolt runner. Step right onto the face and up past 5 more bolt runners. Abseil chains .

Starts 5m R of the original first pitch (10m down L of the Initiation)

Climbs the Redbacks wall to the left of that route; the 'hole' 2/3 the way up the wall is a landmark. Up past a few bolts.

Starts 8m L of White Chemical Dustbins, following some carrots.