Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 22nd Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Shadowlines | ||||||
25 |
FA
★★★ Amicus
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 22nd Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
25 |
★★ Reinventing the Wheel (To Run Myself Over)
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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25 |
★★ A Long Walk (Down a Short Pier)
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The superior start of Backstreet Boyce, then the shared crux of Reinventing the Wheel, followed by awesome gr23(ish) steep face climbing on amazing rock! Would that the crux wasn't so hard, and this would be a mega classic 23!
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24 ~25 |
★★★ Barking up the Wrong Tree
![]() | 27m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. This is a "classic 24" if you pull up to the 3rd bolt, or a "very good 25" from the ground. Shame the start is so incongruously hard/unpleasant, because everything from the ledge up is technical, funky, feature-climbing on amazing rock.
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26 |
FA
★★★ Backstreet Boyce
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot today. Still only just kept it together on the final roofy moves -with fingers opening up on the jugs. Just a hilarious thuggy problem, with some wild "heroic" moves.
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Sun 16th Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Shadowlines | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Amicus
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 x Early-morning TRS laps clean for training. Very cool, IMHO.
Subjectively, the start for me probably makes this route 26, but I suspect more compact climbers might find this not too bad, as there are plenty of options (making this not a "reachy" climb) but it is awkward and bunchy at my height. |
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Sat 15th Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Backstreet Boyce
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
4 shots. 3 of them were to the final little sequence, which I kept on bungling. New beta on the final laps may have unlocked a better sequence for the end, but we'll have to see.
Cliffhanger-esque roof absurdity. Short, but hilarious. Makes you feel like a boss. |
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Sun 9th Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | ||||||
30 |
★★ Simmering
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back in 2019 I came a hairs breadth from freeing this for the First Ascent after sieging it for an entire season. A year later Nigel did the FFA, and since then I've had this in the back of my mind as an "obvious project to return to for a gr30 slab I know I can do".
Trying it today, I did all the moves "okay" (certainly better than my first days of trying it back in 2019) though it would still need a tonne of effort to put it all together. But you know what I realised? I just really don't enjoy this style of razor-blade crimping much anymore, and I'm not so desperate to chase my first gr30 to suffer it for the sake of the grade. Honestly, I'd rather climb something steep (though it suits me less) and have more fun. This is a proper slab/face test piece, and substantially harder than it looks from below. If you're still vibing that style, this is definitely your cup of tea. Now, after 18 years of climbing, I know it's not mine anymore. |
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25 |
★★★ Toyland Direct
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean to the bolt above the "Bryden Allen move" as a warmup, then lowered. Apart from the stupid runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, this all felt pretty chill, and super fun. I forgot how good this is.
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Sat 8th Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Black Dog Buttress | ||||||
23 |
★★★ EMDR
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sweet! Proper airy, pumpy, juggy arete climbing at the grade. Mitch's vision paid off, and this climbs super well. I climbed this with a gentleman's sit at the no-hands-rest
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Sunset Buttress | ||||||
24/25 ~25 |
★★ Catch and Kill
![]() | 37m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun end of day attempt in the pouring rain... Felt like I was climbing well... and then I found the crux!
Took a few biiiiiiig falls on the crux undercling move. When I stuck it (replete with flying drive-by) I felt like a boss! Short (if climbed without linking into the upper pitch) but great rock, and very strange (engaging) moves. I'm happy to call this one 25 with my physiology. |
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
23 |
★★ Shagohod
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another lap. Love the upper half steepness.
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21 ~21 |
★ Outer Haven
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Clean repeat. Lapping!
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Black Dog Buttress | ||||||
26 |
FA
★★★ The Black Dog
![]() | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A great FA, whereby I still had to fight to stick the top moves, despite 5 sessions on this thing (most of them in TRS).
Once you get to the steepness, its all just genuinely fun climbing. The rock quality is wave wall, but longer, and steeper. The main 3 bolts of the crux is just super funky, powerful, tucked-in bouldering over a long sequence, and I just really enjoyed my time on this. Hope you guys do too. Fun fact: this is the first time I've projected anything since my accident in September last year! |
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Shadowlines | ||||||
24 |
★★★ The VIII
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Raaaaaad.
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24 |
★★★ The VIII
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
My favourite of the routes on this wall. A rad start up a corner/crack feature, then continuous climbing on great rock, with quite a few tricky moves. The pockets near the top are wickedly cool.
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23 |
★★★ The 7a
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. A great warmup.
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23 |
★★★ The 7a
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing. Reminds me of Theory of Negativity -albeit, less funky features- though longer. Only a brief crux.
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22 |
★★ The 5.11c
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit too zealously cleaned, IMHO, but at least the rock that remains is solid-as. Fairly continuous at a cruisy grade, with a briefly thin crux. Steeper than it looks.
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23 |
★ The E3 6a
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Seconding Neil to exit the crag. The moves were great, but the rock was friable at times (which meant I was more concerned about breaking something, than enjoying the climbing itself).
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ghidrah | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Ookondoru
![]() | 50m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 shots. I had a pretty good (tenacious) onsight attempt, but the mid-height crux took me a bit to figure out.
On the second shot, I ended up linking from the initial traverse no-hands rest, to the top, through all 3 cruxes. I'll definitely come back for the true send, because this is a great climb! Like the other routes here, this thing is quite continuous and sustained. Yet this one quite definitely has 2 thin and technical cruxes to keep it interesting. |
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24 |
★★★ Orochi
![]() | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome, continuous face climbing, with no obvious "stances" to break up the pitch. Seconding Mitch clean to exit the crag. Fairly sustained, though with no pronounced crux. Great rock, rad moves... the start is all time
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Millionaire's Row | ||||||
24 |
★★ Calcified Mind
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bah, not winning
The start is hard, but super rad when you figure it out. The roof is strangely easy, given its absurdity, and the climbing above is relatively cruisy. Totally worth your time! |
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 |
★ Juice on the Loose
![]() | 12m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 Laps - just to the last bolt (24 to here) clean, as the last moves were dripping wet. Managed to punch this one out, sans chalk, placing draws, no worries whatsoever. Pretty chuffed with this, given that I haven't steep climbed in the 7 months since my accident. My core and calves felt it the next morning, though!
This is my favourite of all the routes on the upper ledge. |
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24 ~25 |
★ Chip and Jinx's Canine Adventures in Conveyancing
![]() | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 x Repeat attempts, not clean. Though I cruiiiiiiised the link from above the lower layback crux to the top, for whatever reason, the low-crux kicked my arse today, and felt grades harder than 24.
The finale of this puppy is wild! |
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21 |
★★ Thirty Three Years
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another repeat. A great way to access the upper tier of climbing here.
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
23 |
★★ Shagohod
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. Rather stop-start, but the upper moves are my favourite of the crag.
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22 |
★★ Sahelanthropus
![]() | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. Absolutely cruised this. No way it was ever 23 (not sure what I was thinking?) Awesome technical climbing on weirdly good rock the whole way.
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21 ~21 |
★ Outer Haven
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
2 Laps. After a long morning working one of my upper mountains projects, this one felt hard today. Fun enough for what it is.
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Black Dog Buttress | ||||||
21 |
★★ Solar Power
![]() | 40m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed as a giant pitch to exit the crag. Pitch 1 is classic slab climbing, Pitch 2 is snappy ironstone crimping. Quite the bipolar climb, then;
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Wed 17th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
21 |
FA
★★ Not Here to F$#k Spiders
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 laps to verify the route/quality. Really interesting, sustained, technical slabbing/face climbing. Now the easiest route to exit the crag with.
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24 |
★ Get a Black Dog Up Ya
![]() | 35m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Much better than I remembered it (and much easier)! Essentially 2 boulders surrounded by easy climbing, but both boulders are rad. With some rope management, this is very achievable as a giant single pitch.
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Sunset Buttress | ||||||
25 ~26 |
★★★ Highdrogen Flare
![]() | 37m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing, sustained, technical face climbing, and bloody hard for the grade! It took me quite a bit to sort the two main cruxes (I had to approach them very differently from the FA), and I took a huge whip from the very top going for a big link attempt. Beautiful rock, wild position, unique movement.
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Millionaire's Row | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Old Punks Must Die
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A bit more of a gnarly warmup than I was expecting. I pumped out on the last moves of the opening roof crux, but otherwise had no trouble with this route.
The start and roof boulder is great rock and wild moves, and the headwall is classy face climbing. Totally worthwhile addition. |
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
28 |
★★ Water Hazard
![]() | 36m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Just the one lap for fitness and to re-remember the beta for Match . I was pretty happy to put together the entirety of the upper crux section with minimal hassle, years after I was last on this. Amazing climbing from about the 5th bolt up!
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
23 |
FA
★★ Shagohod
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really enjoyed this, but its probably not for everyone. Went really easily today, so its probably not as hard as I thought it was. A really funky, fun, steep finale with some very weird moves
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21 ~21 |
★ Outer Haven
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. As I said before, if you stay out of the cave, this is actually quite fun, and the crux is enjoyable.
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
27 |
★ Nadir
![]() | 36m | ★ Good | |||
Finally decided to suss this route to the top. The moves to gain and turn the lip are mega, and the grey-rock face climbing above involves some complex and gripping sequences for a first ground-up lap.
Probably the most annoying part for me, is having to lap the lower 24 section of this route to get to the hard bit |
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27 |
★★ Kaizen
![]() | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat placing draws to the roof (easy 25 to here) then I explored the upper section. The move to turn the lip is very much the 27 bit, but the section above it is probably another 25 in its own right (albeit with good stances before the hard climbing). The upper section is excitingly runout when placing draws, in classic Emil style
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
25 Hard |
★★ Being and Nothingness (2nd Edition)
![]() | 35m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean Repeat TRS.
After chopping the original (crappy) start, re-jigging the bolts in the upper section, repairing a super key broken hold (that was forcing a weird "round the world" sequence, and meant the crux bolts were all in the wrong place), and developing a whole new (gr21) start, I needed to see if my efforts had borne fruit. In short, this is now one of my favourite routes on the wall. I'd call it 2nd best after Life of Riley. Its rad that with a bit more route development experience, and a bit of time and effort, this route -that has always frustrated me for having a crappy lower half, and a good but poorly arranged upper half- is now one of my favourite sporty sport routes I've put up. I really hope this gets more traffic now, because it deserves it. Incidentally, the gr21 Bottom section (25m to the first anchor) is proper good climbing, and would happily stand next to such contemporaries at Cosmic County. |
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
26 ~25 |
★★ Leviathan
![]() | 32m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean Repeat. Revenge! Had to work at the top, but still managed to punch this straight out today. So much fun.
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23 ~22 |
★★ Smoko
![]() | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Revenge! How did I fall off this last weekend? Still awesome.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
26 ~25 |
★★ Leviathan
![]() | 32m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean today. No real problems to the top boulder, but -absent chalk- it took me a bit to piece it together. Essentially, three boulders (each getting harder than the other) with easier climbing and good rests inbetween. The top headwall is super rad.
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25 Easy |
★★★ The Life of Riley
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Sweet! It's been a decade since I was last on this (when I ticked it) and it was rad to get on it today and just do it straight up, placing draws, without too much difficulty.
One of the best technical, sustained, and consistently clean face climbs in NSW. |
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23 ~22 |
★★ Smoko
![]() | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Whoops... The unsend! Totally botched the crux. Otherwise, had a great old time. This route is always so much better than I remember it being
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall | ||||||
24 |
★★ Hung on a Tree
![]() | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back-to-back-to-back thinness on positive edges. The technical finale is the best bit. No time for another shot.
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21 |
★ Sugar Mountain
![]() | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sharp little crimps, but everything is just so much more positive than you expect. A fun little ramble.
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso Golgotha | ||||||
22 |
★★★ The Long Kiss Goodnight
![]() | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Wow, I forgot what a wild showstopper the finale (through the roof direct) is. Earns the grade for this one sequence, but its a good one.
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19 |
★★★ Ghost Rider
![]() | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Just pleasant, flowing slabbing the whole way. Dreamy!
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Leviathan | ||||||
22 |
★★ No Antidote
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I fell off the start boulder a couple of times till I found the holds. A very cool finale.
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21 |
★★ Yuddy Boody Noo
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Weird, funky, and tough.
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Bare Rock | ||||||
New Horizons | ||||||
23 ~24 |
★★ Captain Awesome
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another stacked one. The opening boulder gave me a fair bit of grief initially. I went through it twice, only to bungle easier moves higher up. Complex face climbing.
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24 |
★★★ The Mullets' Edge
![]() | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt - not clean today. In this instance, I couldn't even touch the opening move, but had no real trouble from after it to the top. But for the bouldery start, this route is better, and more arete-y than I remember it.
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21 |
★★ Way Of The Beanie
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really short, but really tricky and unrelenting in my opinion. I came close to falling a few times.
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Three O'Clock Hill | ||||||
22 |
★★ Rock Around the Clock
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, but intense and unlikely.
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19 |
★ Crocodile Rock
![]() | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The best of the routes on this boulder. More technical and interesting than it looked from the ground.
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17 |
★ Rock N Roll is King
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
An okay face climb.
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23 |
★★ Rock Steady
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 shots. Couldn't keep it together at the mid-point crux on either lap. A stacked upper half.
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23 |
★★ Rock Hard and Ride Free
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
An enjoyable, easy start, leads to a brutal, thin and technical finale. Exciting for a slab.
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23 |
★★ Hard as a Rock
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprisingly sustained thin moves the whole way. I didn't find the sneaky crimp near the top on my onsight attempt.
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21 |
★★ Let’s Get Rocked
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A few cool moves when you first come around the arete, then victory jugs to the top.
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Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Boneyard | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Heaven Can Wait
![]() | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt -not clean today. Frustrating. I first onsighted this back in 2016, and have never fallen off it since. Today, I got utterly schooled. Some big falls, much complaining, and a pathetic effort. The sun didn't help, but that's certainly not wholly to blame.
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23 |
★★ Fire in the sky
![]() | 30m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Well, at least I can still get up this one despite weakness and temps. Still a personal favourite.
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Mister Bean
![]() | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. 2 Laps. Truth be told, I fell off the bulge-boulder below the arete on my first lap, but corrected it on the second. A mixed bag of quality, and the arete itself is really easy, but it was still fun enough. Pretty much every hard move is escapable if you stray from the bolts a bit.
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22 ~23 |
★★ Just Technical
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. 2 Laps for training. Damn I love this thing
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
21 |
★★★ Rex Hunt's Love Child
![]() | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. This is just a really fun climb, and not too hard at the grade. Feeling good on the slow return-to-form after 5 months on the couch.
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Thu 7th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ghidrah | ||||||
25 |
★★★ King Geedorah
![]() | 70m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
TRS Lap -seconding Mitch after the FA. Not clean today (2 falls) but given that I'd been on the couch for 5 months to this point, I was happy just to try really hard.
Most of my post-accident re-introduction to climbing has been tame, approachable, conventional crags. Being back on this monstrous monster is the sort of experience that reminds me why I've been trying to claw my way back to climbing so desperately. What a way to come back. |
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
21 ~21 |
FA
★ Outer Haven
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
FA. Some great climbing at the start and once you start turning the cave roof, but the escapability into the choss cave, and the rock surrounding it knocks a start off. Might be hard at the grade? Though the grade is contingent on following the line of the bolts on the good rock, and not straying off into the choss.
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10 |
Snake Cave Access Route
![]() | 10m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Ugh. Sand.
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21 |
FA
★★ Peacewalker
![]() | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FA. A super cool hard start up steep jugs, and a tricky face on great rock... then easier, but less inspiring climbing to the top.
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
22 |
FA
★★ Sahelanthropus
![]() | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FA. A "Lowers Mountains Classic" (with all the caveats that statement encompasses).
A climb of many components, but the technical finale is definitely a show stopper. No boring bits, that's for sure. |
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Main Wall (Upper) | ||||||
21 |
★★ Gimme Your Fingernails
![]() | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short'n'sweet. Went direct through the small roof at the start to gain the line of the bolts (rather than heading out right, and traversing in via the corner).
When climbed this way, it's quite sustained the whole way, with lots of interesting thin moves. |
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence The Lost Woods | ||||||
18 Hard |
FA
★ Korok Climb
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
First Ascent. Climbed ground-up before it was cleaned/brushed, and it felt like gr21... But after a good session to clean it, it's settled at 18.
An interesting short slab, on mostly good rock, marred only by its escapability. |
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall | ||||||
24 R |
★★ Bad Cheques
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. Exciting send in the summery temps. Glad I didn't attempt the onsight, as that start is diabolical! I think this is borderline X without tricams, but maybe only R with them? Alas, I had no tricams. I loved the oozy, slinky style.
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
25 R |
★★★ Aftermath
![]() | 30m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. So much fun!!! After seeing all the broken gear on this one, I decided to do an equipping lap, then smashed it second shot. Steep, juggy, intimidating pumpiness through outrageous steep terrain. Im pretty chuffed to say that I reached the anchor completely unpumped
I then downclimbed it to clean it |
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
25 |
★★ Ride Like the Wind Variant
![]() | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd redpoint attempt, after a TRS rehearsal. Took a huuuuge fall on my first RP attempt. Short and hardly a "line" but cool rock and moves, and crazy sustained for a face climb.
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Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
21 |
★★★ A Taste of Honey
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not a good warmup
2nd shot was a cruiiiiiiiise and just super fun. More intimidating than Kachoong, and more technical for a steep climb, but not much harde grade-wise. |
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Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Trojan
![]() | 86m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. My onsight attempt was an absokute debacle -I just couldn't seem to get my head around it, for some reason.
Then, when I figured my beta, the 2nd lap was kinda cruisy, I didn't get stressed or pumped. Weird? Objectively, its classic, slippery, burly, steep crack climbing, with a ruthless start. |
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
27 |
★★★ Mind Arthritis
![]() | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Exploratory lap. Mega climbing with a bouldery crimp crux. Not particularly scary -though all the bolts are in the wrong spot, its fine once the draws are on. I could probably do this this trip, but I think id rather get on more Arapilean-esque routes.
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
22 |
★★ Cecilia
![]() | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Totally botched the start sequence and pumped out, then went back to the ground and sent. Probably about gr20 from the first bolt to the top, but the start is gnarly and slippery.
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Mon 18th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Station to Station
![]() | 22m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. First lap was a bit of a debacle, but my first redpoint burn was a controlled cruise -wasn't even pumped at the top. Super funky grampians-esque start, then a burly and technical crack and arete finale. Steep fun in an exposed position.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Northern Walls | ||||||
25 |
★★★ The Terrible Truth About Time
![]() | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stacked! So many dropable moves the whole way up. A face-climbing connoisseur's delight! Seconding the First Ascent clean -I almost came unstuck when the FA decided to use a locked locking bina bolt-side at the hardest crux, resulting in some mid-crux desperation. A classic for sure.
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23 |
★★ No Questions Asked
![]() | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super exposed arete climbing. Would be 3 stars but the rock is slightly less than perfect. Very technical, yet steep and pumpy.
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Diamond Bay Northern Wall | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Violet Town
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. Fell off AFTER the upper crux on my onsight due to an amateurish foot-slip on an easy move
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26 |
★★ Ordeal by Fur
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Almost a classic, but that its essentially about gr24 with a v6+ crux. Night time attempt, 2 shots, awesome second lap but still couldn't link that crux, unfortunately. The rest of the route is great, though.
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Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall | ||||||
26 R |
★★★ Gigantor (free version)
![]() | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5 days of effort to this point.
Pretty chuffed to get both this and Titan done free within the span of a month. As with Titan, I really wanted to prove to myself that I could do this. I wasn't planning on doing it until next season, but had an unscheduled day, and decided to check it out... and I was immediately hooked on the challenge. As to the route: If the rock wasn't choss -even if it was just your run-of-the-mill Blueys Sandstone, I'd call this the single best crack climbing I've been on in the entire world (and I don't think my resume is lacking when it comes to crack climbing) for position, sustainedness, and purity. It would also be a super-duper obvious contender to climb as a giant pitch. Alas, it is choss, so while I still regard it as classic, that is very much a subjective opinion, and I think prospective repeat ascensionists should really consider whether this will be their cup-of-tea or not. P1 - is amazingly varied and technical climbing. Personally, I probably found this physically harder than P2 (in that, its more cruxy) and in some ways scarier (due to insecure cruxes). The opening finger-locking is aesthetic and great, and the insecure laybacking through the middle lends itself to complex footwork. P2 - Looser than P1 for sure (the start of the pitch is horrible!), but quite stacked. This has a lot of hard moves with no super chill rest. I found the last moves to the anchor to be the crux, there there was about 5 sections I could genuinely have fallen off on. P3 - To be honest, I didn't like this pitch at all. Loose, hard to protect short crack section, followed by a sandy traverse on eroding edges to gain the topout ledge. Less sandy/chossy than you might expect in some ways... More sandy/chossy than you might expect in others. There's an "unpredictability" to the rock here that most other chossy routes I've climbed don't quite have. The gear is also pretty good, provided you're smart about where you place, and remember that spreading fall-load over a larger surface area is better than the alternative (read: passive pro, dammit!). Don't trust the fixed gear, though |
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
25 |
★★ Beaver Shot
![]() | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One day I'll tick this
Super fun start and finish, but I find the crux rather nails. An easy way of making this less cruxy (at the same grade) is to traverse left around the little crux boulder, since you end up back on-line by the next bolt anyway. |
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25 |
★★ He Said, She Said
![]() | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Super fun. This one ha cleaned up nicely since I last did it. Easy for the grade. Great start and finish
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23 |
★★★ Sensory Overload
![]() | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another repeat. Never gets old
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Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall | ||||||
26 |
★★ Titan
![]()
1
19
35
2
18
30
3
26
20
4
26
25
| 110m | ★ Good | |||
5 days of effort in total to put this all together. I pink-pointed the top 2 pitches, and had the first 2m of gear pre-clipped on P3. I broke 4 fixed pegs, and 1 hourglass carrot during this process. I also took 5 falls -one of which was a sideways whip onto an hourglass carrot, that somehow held my fall!
I wanted to climb something hard on Dogface to prove to myself that I could -I've always believed that I could, but the time had come to prove it. I found this a conflicting experience. I liked the climbing on the crux pitches, and -surprisingly- didn't end up finding the bad rock/gear as terrifying as I expected. However, because every single lap the route gets harder (breakages, holds become sandier, others become more rounded, fixed gear breaks, etc) my whole experience was stressful due to the knowledge that sooner or later it would be too hard for me to climb. I've never really climbed with this type of time-constraint before (wherein, every failed lap is punished by adding .1 of a grade to the pitch). Interestingly, the bottom 2 pitches are quite moderate, and actually surprisingly good (the rock isn't too bad, the gear is pretty good, and the climbing is fun!). These pitches are probably worth doing in their own right. After that, it gets rather sandy, and kinda hard P3 had a wildly technical thin stepped corner (on good gear) to start it off (it took me quite a while to figure out the beta), followed by easy, loose, runout rambling. P4 had a very cool seam-crack crux, followed by interesting, technical, runout slab climbing on deteriorating rock. |
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Glenbrook Bluffs | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Width Pleasure
![]() | 7m | ★★★ Classic | |||
After work in-a-day send by headlamp!
Great rock for the lower mountains, and wiiiiild moves climbing inverted feet in the offwidth. I found the moves to turn the lip and mantle out pretty bouldery at the grade, but maybe I had a silly sequence? Would love to hear beta on it. I can only think of 3 other offwidths in the greater Blueys that compares in the grade range/style, and this is probably the best. For some reason I didn't read the description, and only brought 2 x 5's, which was not ideal. I'll be back with the right gear for the red point, cause this puppy is totally worth it! |
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
25 |
★★ Little Boyce Room
![]() | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great! Not too hard at the grade, but bloody awesome. The low crux is just fun, but everything above it is mega at about gr23. Great rock, and pretty sustained. Might be my favourite route here.
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26 |
★★ Yumster
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6th shot. Took me 4 laps to ever come up with a consistent sequence for the crux. 5th lap I went through the crux, and fell off the first stemming move... 6th lap for the win.
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Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Beastie Boyce
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6th shot total, and 4 core-shotting falls at the lower crux.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | ||||||
27 |
FA
★★★ Litany of the Long Sun
![]() | 75m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a journey! Surprise send, after spending the morning on Simmo's route, and only tackling this at the end of the day with a view to sorting out the "send logistics" (with a route this long, steep, and wandery... It's fair to say that it's involved).
There's just so much here to remember, and with it being so steep, you're always on a timer to get it done. Steep, gymnastic, and sometimes quite technical. Would be megaclassic, but the rock is only about as good as Sunny Side Bell, so far from the best the Blueys has to offer. It's almost too hard to sum it up at an experience, even with the copious amounts of hyperbole I can command 2 Full days working the bottom 26/27 arete, and the effort I originally put in to climb Gaze a Gazely Stare (as well as a few repeated laps for fitness and training). On the send, I committed to constant 5m+ runouts to avoid dealing with rope drag. |
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
25 |
★★ Boyce Light Up
![]() | 30m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot. I only carried 2 draws through the crux, so climbed the top 20m clipping only 2 bolts.
A funky (but incongruous) start crux leads to a magnificient gr21ish headwall up cool grooves and scoops. |
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
25 |
FA
★★★ Harbinger
![]() | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Originally attempted ground up. Took some falls, but was ultimately stymied by dirt and moss at the lip. Rapped in, cleaned 'er up, and went agsin. Took a huge lead whip right at the end on my 2nd shot, and sent 3rd shot on pre placed gear.
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Thu 13th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
24 |
FA
★★ Bad Boyce Bad Boyce
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Coukd be hard at the grade. Hilarious roof jugging, to gnarly lip-turn traversing. Loooong.
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Big Top | ||||||
30 |
★★ The Clumbsy Caterpillar
![]() | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one TRS lap. Very technical slabbing. More arete-y than I expected. Rock is a mixed bag of quality.
Did all the moves (with lots of falls) to the last bolt, and I think I could link this much on lead within a sesh or two... But I never made any upwards progress in the 1.5m from the last bolt to the anchor, and didn't really have an idea for how to do it at the grade. |
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27 |
★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee
![]() | 12m | Average | |||
Just the one exploratory lap.
Some cool moves, but probably the most contrived bolted route I've ever been on, and hardly aesthetically inspiring. The rock is also rather soft (and probably not destined for long term survival). Only the start move gave me any real grief (that is; once I'd figured out how I'd attack the upper crux). If I came back, and can sort the start, I think I could do this next visit |
For training, I also down-climbed from the anchor to the crux, taking off draws as I went. Good fitness!