Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 21st Jun 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
17 | ★★ Kinky Renée - with Michael Moore | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is really nice and flows well. It avoids what I think is the crux of Innocence and the traverse is a pleasant stroll with good feet the whole way.
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19 | ★★ Old Flat Monster - with Michael Moore | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice, was easier than I was expecting
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Sun 16th Jun 2024 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Cheese Cutter - with Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 8m | ||||
22 | ★★ Bareback Rodeo - with Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 12m | ||||
Leading this would be quite deathly. Route climbs nicely and once you are on it’s much more straight forward than it looks
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17 | ★★ Enema Tree - with Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 8m | ||||
Sat 15th Jun 2024 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ King Billie Coke Bottle - with Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 8m | ||||
15 | ★ Ethan's Tears - with Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 8m, 1 | ||||
13 | ★ Divorce - with Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 8m | ||||
16 | ★ Love And Marriage - with Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 8m | ||||
Fri 31st May 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
18 | ★ Pain heals - with Michael Moore | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Not the best line at the cliff but another worthy line in its own right at the grade
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - with carol lee, Michael Moore, Matt | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The new gear beta is great walking or unclipping behind you, leaving just 2 reds at the first lip and two yellows at the second. Fell at crux again, the jams are fine I just need much more weetbix and more stamina.
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22 | ★★ Morning Glory - with carol lee, Michael Moore, Matt | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The first third is horribly hollow and loose for gear but otherwise climbs well. Topped out on the ledge. Didn’t do the crack which needs a good clean. Not inspired to lead it
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
20 |
★★ Rites Of Passage
- with
Michael Moore
1
Rapped in and scrubbed what I thought was the line. Got to second bolt and ventured right into nothing, footer broke and fell. Jugged up the rap line and did some lichen archaeology and found the real line and then resumed from the second bolt clean to the top. The crux is start of the arete at the 4th bolt and pretty happy to flash the real line. Honestly tempted to log the whole route as a flash just to see if @best_of_thecrag pulls me up on it
2
Kept going up this stellar hand crack as a single pitch. | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This one has been on the list for ages and I should have done it years ago, its one of the best routes in the gorge! It climbs well and it's in a top spot
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Fri 24th Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
21 Easy | ★★ Capstone Project - with Simon Porter, Ben Vincent | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of mental rehearsal. Once you commit and get into it it’s not too bad, holds are pretty juggy and the mantle is probably technically the crux.
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
★★ alternate end - with Volodymyr K, Simon Porter | ★ Good | |||||
Good go, got to end of traverse and popped and my shoulder wasn't happy so rested it the rest of the day
|
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Springer - with Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The boulder start to this is really cool
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17 | ★ Keystone corruption - with Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
I was originally going to do the real easy far right zig zag but got a bit sketched by the levitating arch. It seems solid but I definitely won't be putting gear near it. The move onto the slab is interesting but it's over too quick and the grassy ledge section at the top out is not ideal.
|
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Chicks Dig Scars - with Michael Moore | 25m | ||||
'Attempt' is being polite. I flailed on this hard. I've given Michael so many catches it was overdue I had a play. The first half is nice and easy but not trivial. Maybe grade 18 and I've often wondered about it being a route in its own right as the two sections are so different in style and grade. At the roof the doom music kicks in and its just ... hard. I may have done about 4 actual moves total on the head wall between sags
|
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
16 | ★★ Impunity - with Blue Mountains Orangutan | 20m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun and flowy, fairly consistent and a great warm up for Innocence in a similar style
|
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Hope Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★★ Hope - with Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 3rd Feb 2023 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Pub Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Under the Bridge - with Simon Porter | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
17 | ★★★ Stonka Truck - with Simon Porter | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super fun, stoked to onsight the FA thinking this would be baggy fists but its solid hands almost all the way
|
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Fri 13th Jan 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Moving Targets - with Ben Vincent | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Based on the dust and cobwebs this probably doesn't see much traffic but it's pretty neat. If we hadn't left some gear at the bottom we would have been done for the day but it was a really great little one to finish up with. Nice to have some jams for a change and switch up the muscle groups.
|
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Fri 13th Jan 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Destructive Wombats - with Ben Vincent | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super fun! I think this might be my fav route of the day, the second half of pockety goodness is bouldery and very happy to pick my way through the swiss cheese
|
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17 | ★★★ Little Red Riding Hood - with Ben Vincent | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very cruisy fun with a nice finish
|
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19 | ★★ When the Levee Breaks - with Ben Vincent | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Green Jam - with Michael Moore, Volodymyr K, carol lee, Simon Porter | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Slightly higher high point that last time, much cleaner sequence with less faffing. Sagged at the fist crack. Powered through the rest with a little scream, much easier than trying to be slow and steady. Classic!
|
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20 ~20 | ★★★ Possum Magic - with Michael Moore, Volodymyr K, carol lee, Simon Porter | 13m | ||||
First go, jammed it all up to the little rooflet which was super pumpy, came down after second rest
|
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Fri 24th Jun 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Car Park Boulders Heavenly area | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Stairway to Heaven - with Benji Dutaillis, Michael Moore | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rapped off to film Michael, had to bail before I had a go
|
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Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Inertia - with Volodymyr K, Michael Moore, Laura Price, Bryn Norris | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First time I've been on the 'real' inertia, always been confused by the bolts. This route is quality. Take care to extend gear over the sharper lips to save your rope. Was lightly raining, the cross through move at the lip shut me down and was a bit rushed to spend time working it.
|
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Fri 29th Apr 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Bootleg - with Michael Moore | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Steeper than it looks, no jambs just laybacking. Flash pumped and hung, but once you figure out the sweet spots the crux is over way too soon. I got onto the top of the roof after some gardening and there is a big dead tree before you can get to savage amusement. SA needs some big cleanup to finish. Ended up back climbing and I think I did it in better style than the ascent
|
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Sun 13th Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Death roof - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This cleaned up fairly nicely into a pure crack problem without the features to the left which we thought would be needed. Could be a couple variants. All over in 2-3 moves but still good fun. Still not sure I'd want to solo boulder it.
|
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Sun 30th Jan 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Mad Woman's Breakfast Area | ||||||
20 | ★★ Mad Woman's Breakfast - with Michael Moore | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Naively was psyching myself up for an onsight, totally shut down. Had maybe half a dozen goes, high point was left cup after the constriction, high right fist after that
|
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Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Pub Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ 23andMe - with Volodymyr K, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 17th Oct 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
North rim boulders Plumbers crack | ||||||
25 | ★★ The Plumbers Crack - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis, carol lee, Michael Moore | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprisingly possible. Minging crimpy start and then its mostly ok in crack, then crux topout. On my last go my high point was the last pinch jam. I did the top from the good crimp way out left at the top but I think its too far and I can do it just with the nipple crystal instead. Ben was super close
|
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Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Fourth Breakaway | ||||||
16 | ★★ Crooked Vision - with Volodymyr K | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had a crack at the direct start, really fingery layback. The gear was in the way. This time actually finished it up the fun original route which has bomber knee jams to the pillar.
|
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19 | ★★★ Sleight of Hand - with Ben Vincent, Volodymyr K | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
After Volo and Soph, and then Ben, I too had to get a taste of climbing while being intermittently hosed when the wind diverted the adjacent waterfall onto the route. Refreshing! I won't say I dogged it, more like an eel. The route is great and keen to repeat when dry.
|
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16 | ★★ Twist - with Todd Free | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had a brief mini tantrum after discovering my harness was ... not present. Textbook hand jams, a delightful warmup.
|
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Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Second Breakaway | ||||||
17 | ★★ Fear and Loathing - with Benji Dutaillis | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice and naturally clean
|
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Sat 3rd Apr 2021 - Beulah | ||||||
Western areas Goat Dome Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Crack left of fig - with Ben Vincent | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★★ Upper ledge access route - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis, Chloe, Caz, Katrina, Todd Free | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Crux is a high fingery start then good jam practice. Perfect spot for top roping crack practice
|
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Fri 25th Sep 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas Bomb Town | ||||||
16 | ★★ Chicken Wing to Bomb Town - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
We'd eye this off while bouldering underneath it so didn't have a great sense of scale and thought it would be mostly offwidth and I was keen due to my hand still not being ready for crimping. It ended up climbing quite nicely, it felt like a small segment of a much larger multi pitch
|
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Sun 30th Aug 2020 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Crater Bluff | ||||||
16 |
★★ Lieder
- with
Ben Vincent
2
lead by
Ben Vincent
3
lead by
Ben Vincent
4
lead by
Brendan Heywood
5
lead by
Ben Vincent
6
lead by
Ben Vincent
7
lead by
Brendan Heywood
| 260m | ★★ Very Good | |||
After a good rest day we were much better prepped and had a proper alpine start for this. Had a tourist chopper buzz us at some point. On the start of the 3rd pitch stemming over the mini waterfall my foot blew on dodgy rock and I tumbled about 5m back to the belay. In hind sight it is probably the worst fall I've ever had but luckily I was barely hurt with just a bruised forearm which has yellowed up nicely since. 'With care' is an understatement of the start of pitch 3. Pitch 5 has a fantastic airy crux and is the jewel in this route. We topped out with plenty of light and back on the ground at dusk, then hoofed it back to the car and home
|
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Fri 28th Aug 2020 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Bluff Mountain | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Flight of the Phoenix - with Ben Vincent | 310m | ★★★ Classic | |||
We arrived at Balor close to midnight the night before so had a slightly relaxed start. Finding the start seemed fairly ok and I started climbing at 11. I was feeling rusty so let Ben have the first two money pitches, which mean I ended up spending a lot of time chilling out literally while he went on a wild off-route-finding spree. By the time I joined Ben at the rap it was 2:30 and I'd ended up aiding some moves through the mystery pitons and was deep in type II fun: some combination of too cold / too hot / dehydrated / wind chill / cramping badly. We did discuss bailing from the rap but we forged on prepared to climb at night and I estimated it would be a midnight finish. After a couple pitches the type II fun gradually eased back into type I fun. I "led" the top pitch just so I could say I actually placed a single piece of gear somewhere. As we scrambled over the lip we met hectic arctic winds off the summit. I arrived back at Balor on the dot of midnight Best summarized as we had a 'choose your own adventure'.
|
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Thu 13th Aug 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Foreplay - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | ||||
Benji and Ben went earlier and I knocked off mid arvo and trundled up stylishly late. They'd had a solid session and Ben had already cracked the crux which is just sick. Benji had a go at leading up the first slab and roof crack pitch. Apparently they'd had an epic cleaning session and it showed. After Benji retreated I had a go and "flashed" it. The caveat is I had been on this on our very first session here but I had retreated from the sea of choss, loose dinner plates, and since trundled death boulders.
Benji reckons its a legit flash because it's genuinely so different. It actually climbs well with a fun left hip stretching move through the bulge. Apparently there is a cave I need to explore in there which I completely missed. |
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Mon 8th Jun 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Kitchen | ||||||
15 | ★★ Get Nuked - with Benji Dutaillis | 7m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Benji getting some trad practice. This is a great route to learn trad placements on, bit of spice on the top out
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23 | ★★★ Lean Cuisine - with Benji Dutaillis | 7m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I'd forgotten how good this route is, perfect rock, big dyno move (couldn't make it) or alternate left sequence
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Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Auto Da Fe - with Ben Vincent | 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Planned on watchtower which then evolved into skink, but some earlier birds got that worm either way so we did this instead. Admittedly I was cold and pretty overall hammered from 8 days straight climbing off the couch so was a bit more anxious and not pulling my weight in the psyche department. Despite that Ben was a total champ, this route has some very thin and delicate gear. Had a minor rope tangle getting off
|
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Fri 16th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 |
★★★ Resignation
- with
Ben Vincent
| 96m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A great wind down after all the hype of Kachoong. Relaxed arvo climb watching the birds of prey, and the moon rise on dusk and just soaking it up and avoiding thinking that we'll need to go home soon.
|
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Fri 16th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Kachoong - with Ben Vincent | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
At this stage I believed I'd lost my camera on either Lamplighter or bouldering somewhere, and either way we didn't have an extra photographer so we weren't really expecting to come away with the clichéd money shot. So when we hooked up with Jose, William and Winnie it worked out awesomely, thanks a ton to William for the shots. As Ben started up it started raining, he was moving fast and only put gear in at the roof. I had thought I'd be cleaning it, but I ended up placing more gear on second so the others could lead on that after me. New tick type?? The whole route is great not just the roof - and despite the glory jug at the lip being a puddle which just made it more memorable!
|
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Thu 15th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin - with Ben Vincent | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ripper of a route. The gear looks sparse from the ground but it's all there and the moves are ace
|
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Thu 15th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece - with Ben Vincent | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great little route to access the Tannin ledge. While setting up for Tannin and eating some food my helmet took a small tumble which then escalated and fell all the way to the ground. It didn't seem to noticed.
|
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Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid - with Ben Vincent | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The step around on pitch 1 is really nice. We thought we'd end up finishing at night again but topped out on dusk. Got a bit cold on this. Ben ended up finishing slightly early so I lead the '3rd pitch' 3m to the proper top. The keyhole exit is cool, rapped off in the dark.
|
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Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter - with Ben Vincent | 78m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I'd been slightly off ever since I left home, felt worse this morning and you know it's bad when a grade 10 knocks you around
Second pitch was great though as soon as I got warmed up, and the chimney finish was right up my alley, weird semi-caving stuff |
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Tue 13th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Eurydice - with Ben Vincent | 65m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
On pitch 1 had a little fun fishing out one of bens big cams which was in deep and I couldn't quite get my chest in deep enough to release it. The move over the lip to the midway ledge is cool. Ben started up the second pitch on dusk and I went up by headlamp
|
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12 |
★★★ Bard
- with
Ben Vincent
| 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another super fun classic. I linked 3 & 4 together. Met a school group at the top. First experience of going down the chains which was a little hair raising. Back at car at 3:30
|
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Mon 12th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder | ||||||
16 | Bunny Blowjob - with Ben Vincent | 3m | ||||
Mon 12th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Electra - with Ben Vincent | 40m | ||||
Ben lead, fell at the offwidth constriction on pitch one, probably where the original aid point was on the FA. Decent inverted fall. In a way was nice to be shut down a little on day 1 and gain some healthy respect for the place.
|
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Mon 12th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air - with Ben Vincent | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ben lead as a single pitch
|
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Mon 12th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon - with Ben Vincent | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I lead this as a single pitch. Super fun. The start was a little weepy, and there was a light drizzle as I topped out. When we rapped off the brand new doubles, we had some pretty kinky tails to unwind.
|
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Mon 12th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon - with Ben Vincent | 42m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm up on this classic, Ben lead in a single pitch
|
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Fri 28th Jun 2019 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
21 | ★★ Chewin Fat With The Paleo Brat - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 20m | ||||
Gave Ben a catch on this. Jeez this is nail biting even as the belayer, marginal gear, technical, loose in parts. Ben fought it valiantly for maybe 45 mins and then unzipped from the top then we bailed.
|
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26 | The Proverbial - with Ben Vincent | 15m, 4 | ||||
Belayed Ben on this and we bailed on second bolt
|
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21 | ★★★ Luce - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This thing is amazing. Fell on the low crux, figured out the sequence and it was great. Perfect jamming and good rests all the way to the top. And then it turns into a complete grovel after the roof
|
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18 | ★ Aeroplane Jelly - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Usual story, flash pump and then had a rest, then clean to top after I was warm
|
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Sun 16th Jun 2019 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Illusion Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★ Layabout - with Vaschka Koboroff, Scott Camps | 25m | ||||
Fri 7th Jun 2019 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
The upper climbing areas Falcon Bluff | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Aging Experience - with Ben Vincent | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Grovelly start is entertaining, a few solid jams and it's over. I stopped on the ledge and sussed out what I later figured out to be 'Maybe' which looks great. Then instead of finishing the crack I face climbed the pockets on the undulating wall
|
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Fri 7th Jun 2019 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
The upper climbing areas Half Dome | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Gourmet - with Ben Vincent | 17m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The starting moves on this are ace, the whole route is wicked. Popped off on the last hard move out left before the top, with beta finished it easily
|
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23 | ★★ Masquerade - with Ben Vincent | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
So I jumped on this thinking it was Go-pher guts, because I thought the other crack further left was Masquerade which turns out to be an unclimbed crack.
Totally spanked me, this is my second day on rock since the A2. Lots of dogging / aid and then finished up 'Go-Pher guts'. It's a great route |
||||||
19 | ★★ Tripe - with Ben Vincent | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun and quite featured
|
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Wed 1st Aug 2018 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
24 | ★★ Heaving Falcons - with Ben Vincent | 15m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Utterly stoked to second this clean, one of the hardest brawls I've had with a route. The first layback gets you warm quickly. Was able to rest properly this time in the first roof, busted across and then managed to find an almost comfortable full lie down rest with a knee bar holding me in. Pulled the lip expecting to pop and just held on breathing hard and trying to slow down for the rest. Just lay down for 5 mins at the top trying to breath and not dry retch
|
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15 | ★ Bicameral desires - with Ben Vincent | 6m | ★ Good | |||
We both rapped of in different directions seeing what else was around. Couldn't leave this nice little hand and fist crack undone. We hadn't planned on climbing anything so the only pro we had was a single blue cam - a second cam would have been great. Clipped the jumar on the rap line as a workaround
|
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Sat 21st Jul 2018 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Pockets Full of Emptiness - with Ben Vincent | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This thing is great. It looks offwidthy but has surprising side pulls and holds all over the place.
|
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Fri 6th Jul 2018 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The waterfall | ||||||
waterfall crack project (crack project) - with Ben Vincent | 15m | |||||
Comic assault in the drizzle, everything was completely wet and yet we kept at it. Every time I come back here I'm surprised how steep it is
|
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Mon 4th Jun 2018 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
19 | ★★ Blitzkrieg Bop - with Ben Vincent | 15m | ||||
At another time this experience should have left me despondent, but somehow after humping and aiding the crap out of a vegetated offwidth crack full of lomandra I got to the top happy. Closer to type 1 fun than type 2 fun.
|
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19 | ★★ Narcissus - with Ben Vincent | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt pretty desperate and fingery but managed to fight my way through it.
|
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16 | ★ Squelch The Magic Dragon - with Ben Vincent | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Exceeded my fairly low expectations, was a fun little adventure
|
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21 | ★★ Headbanger - with Ben Vincent | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I'm gonna make the bold call that this is one of the best routes I've done at Ebor. Feel like a sports route relocated from a completely different crag. Worlds apart from Tough customer in grade and style
|
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21 | ★★ Tough Customer - with Ben Vincent | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looks like good hands but thinner once you get on it, good finger workout
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17 | ★★ Firestorm - with Ben Vincent | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This route is pure joy, much more to my liking
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17 | ★ Rubber Ball - with Ben Vincent | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Not sure why I chose an offwidth fist crack as a warm up, totally shut down as the crack widened
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Sat 29th Jul 2017 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Second Breakaway | ||||||
18 | ★★ Fingers - with Alan Ezzy, James | 8m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This had Alan's gear and a top rope still on, so after a bit of creative fishing to reach down to the rope I rapped off and did a lap. Sat on the rope to get the crux nut out.
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24 | ★★ New Blue Dress - with carol lee | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
No grunting, clean. Was keen to have a red point attempt but got distracted
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15 | Ivory Stairs - with Hannah Smart, Nari | 15m | ||||
Linked into the top of 'Funky Monkey'
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Sun 9th Jul 2017 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
19 | ★★ Anxiety Attack - with carol lee | 20m | ||||
We decided we had one more in us if we were fast and this looked good on paper. It turned out to be 1/3 vegetated. carol lee led with a few falls while I slowly froze after sunset getting showered in multiple flurries of dirt and farmers friends. I declined to second.
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22 | ★★★ Pub Grubs And Bloody Greenies - with carol lee | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
carol lee had a few cracks at this but was defeated by the wet spooge gushing out of the first meter of the crack. Jumped on and was pretty happy to power through this and up to half way to the last good stance before the hand crack widens to not-quite-fists and then I regressed into the worse pumped out dogging / aiding / grunting. Finally got to the head wall and then went right for a subterranean burrow (after being warned by Ben Vincent not to go this way)
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20 | ★★ Prime Cut - with carol lee | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good feet stances the whole way
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Sun 25th Jun 2017 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Piranha - with Ben Vincent | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Surprisingly not as much stemming as it looks from the ground,
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19 | ★★★ Infinity - with Ben Vincent | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Pretty darn amazing line, again super happy to get up it clean and feeling the most confident jamming I think I've ever felt.
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20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic! Great finish to the whole trip. Nice boulder problem over the final lip
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Sat 24th Jun 2017 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★★ Dave Manks Electric Gorilla Direct Start - with Ben Vincent, Nathan | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained layback, powered through it fast without breathing much. Got a weird sharp pinch pain in my right palm, possible from gloves too tight
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20 | ★★ Erg - with Ben Vincent, Nathan | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Almost got the direct start, got to within a meter of the top of the left pillar before stemming out to rest.
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18 | ★★★ Resurrection Corner - with Ben Vincent, Nathan | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty sure I've done this yonks ago, brilliant sustained jams and very happy to do it clean. Somehow managed to completely munt a rigid stem friend about half way up, it's now a permanent feature All three of us had a go at retrieving it.
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Fri 23rd Jun 2017 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Warlock - with Ben Vincent | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super cruisy fun route
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20 | ★★★ Odin - with Ben Vincent | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
We weren't quite sure what line we were on so stepped left at the roof and finished up what we learnt was Thor instead on the offwidth roof.
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Sat 6th May 2017 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Fourth Breakaway | ||||||
20 | ★★ Brown Buffalo - with Ben Vincent | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Start shut me down, my hand jams are solid but this was thinner and fingers / cups aren't solid at all. After Ben fought his way up I aided up as the sun set
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19 | ★★★ Rooflet - with Ben Vincent | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ben cruised this. It's a little daunting looking up into it, but jams are bomber and psyched to get through it and somehow cleaned gear mid crux without popping
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18 | ★★ Knuckleduster - with Ben Vincent | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Great little climb until the end and then a gross dirty scramble to the top. Crack gloves felt perfect
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17 | ★★ Fidget - with Ben Vincent | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Warmup, my jams are super rusty
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Sun 12th Jun 2016 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
17 | ★★ Guided Missile - with Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy | 80m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I lead 2nd pitch, scary looking collapsed column to climb through
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