Routes as trad in New South Wales and ACT

Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site.

"A fun day out"

1. 31 As for Teflon

2. 24

3. 28

4. 29

5. 27

Gorgeous and impossible looking line. Absolute world-class classic. Batman on fix rope to start DUB anchor. Stout start at finger lock in horizontal break below anchor, progress steep terrain on pinkie locks, flairy hand jam, pinch, etc to double crimp. Enter wild crux through 60deg overhang with four consecutive finger locks, crimp, pocket, small dynos, etc to uncomfortable rest in break. From there it's easy gr26 but so good to under roof. Climb easy but very exposed roof to tricky exit gr23. Walk off with a smile. Cleaning is best by climbing it again to DUB anchor under roof, clean roof and lower from anchor clean gear to start anchor.

Please be careful with cams, although the rock is solid enough and immaculate for fingers , cams could damage this gem particularly in the crux section. Don't use cams in the finger locks, protect crux in crack above crimps and run it out. Protection is great in smaller sizes where fingers wont fit.

Start at tree right of corner, using pocket then straight up to roof and traverse left under roof and up shallow corner to ledge. Technical corner work then follow line to crux moves at very top . . . 'Cull The Sac' variant. Climb past roof and up to ledge at half-height ~23. Sling-horn to lower, then flick it off to retrieve.

The inverted squeeze chimney / bum-crack above the Camping Cave. Starting at the back of the cave, chimney up, invert from a fist jam, stick your feet up there and shuffle upside down to lip. Cut loose, work around lip, then cruise up offwidth vertical section. Has been done in various ways using the full range of offwidth techniques, needs a few 5 & 6 cams for roof.

Hardest climb listed at Tarana, maybe the hardest "wide" climb in Aus?

Three great pitches, varying in style. Start 3 metres right of The Birdcage.

1. 25m (24) A little sparsely bolted but well within the capabilities of anyone up for the next pitch. Trend right following 5 rings to the belay.

2. 12m (30) Very thin on beautiful rock. Up three bolts then right past another two, ignore the direct finish unless you are after a mighty challenge. Onto the grey rock and into belay cave.

3. 20m (23) Lovely way to finish it off. Follow rings up headwall and over the top to rap chain.

Elliot

Absolutely mind bending trad line. One of the great routes of this genre in Australia and in a spectacular location. Access by an easy paddle from Brooklyn. First ascent done by Johnathon Clearwater on pre-placed gear. First ascent with all gear placed on lead by Simon Bischoff 2018 at grade 30.

Do a move or two as for 'Evolution' pitch 6, then trend R following the line of bolts up the left hand side of the big cave, eventually joining 'Jump Master' at the top of its first pitch.

Start: Start as for 'Evolution' pitch 6.

Reportedly freed by Derek Thatcher and Zac Vertrees. Start up Aesthetic Images to its 2nd bolt, then rising traverse left to gain line of bolts right of Candle Power. About grade 29.

Start: The arête at the left end of the Buttress, before the big chimney corner. Start up the arête, trending right past the hangers to the horizontal break (big friend). Step up and power up the yellow streak past more hangers to lower-off under the block.

Amazing arete with a peg and wire low down then the crux, then your on your own for the balancy stuff. So basically soloing. There is a sling and biner around a branch high in the tree for toproping / pro.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638157463/

Amazing finger crack dividing the Disbelief Cave in two. Tricky easier start to shallow hueco below clean splitter (handy Z4#0.1 and bomber C4#4). From there, the angle is about 45-60deg and most of your body weight will be held up by 3 consecutive solid finger locks in some of the most outrageous moves with footwork at head height. Progress on good but shallow huecos to juggy section. Return to ceiling crack with several finger locks up to a fix wire at the end of the finger crack. Always dry and drizzle free. https://youtu.be/Wsu631XwrWU?si=GrCxwJvDCp9SW7Dq

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

An outstanding, naturally protected line up the obvious weakness through right side of the cave. The first half was originally climbed by Greg Child (and co) at grade 23 to the small stance just before the angle begins to steepen dramatically. From this point things get pumpy and you will need to draw on your bouldering nous. After the business is over be prepared for a longer-than-expected head wall above.

Starts behind pillar up at the back left. Climb Sloth Roof but keep going past the anchor for another 10 meters of mind blowing journey through a ceiling with tufa looking ironstone features. Ends a the opposite wall when your feet land onto a ledge after just another incredible 180 deg feet first cut loose.

The most obvious line through an enormous arrow head shaped stain. Fantastic steep crack, fingers, hands, chicken wings, funky dropknees, karate kicks, few pockets and few good crimps and jugs. Stops where the rock quality deteriorates after obvious bulge in ceiling. Lower off.

8m consistent overhang in 17m of height. Very well protected finger crack topping out the cliff. Very clean. Only one jug after the low first crux, then pumpfest on fingerlocks, then a last crux pinching the dyke to pumpy easier few metres. Top out past DRB anchor. Shady in summer, sunny in winter.

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Outrageous climbing on a 36º angle!! Bomber gear that is easy to place, with a few sections of committing climbing. Be aware of the big ledge !!! DBB.

A mega line linking improbable features up much steepness, and a contender for one of the best at the grade in the Blueys. Partially equipped by Emil, and finished years later by Paul.

Climb The Thin Line of Reprieve on gear (#6/Wires, 0.3, 2, & 3) to first rooflet and hard to clip bolt. Then bust out a rising traverse left with wild, gymnastic moves, before continuing more directly up steep prow to no hands rest. From the rest, dyno for all you're worth, then power through sustained steep climbing for 20m to the belay.

Classic test piece. Giles never really believed he could climb so hard. Start about 50m to the right after the waterfall. Still has some fragile rock; best to stick clip 1st bolt. Can be done only on the bolts, but a few cams are prudent (#1, 0.5/0.3, 3), as are rollers and extenders. 60m rope minimum.

The steep crack, hard though well protected. A Blue Mountains gem. Take double cams from 0.4 Camalot (yellow Alien) to 3 Camalot as well as single set of nuts. Double ring lower-off

20m right of FA at brown slime. Blast straight up the wall (BRs and small to mid size cams) to belay as for B P2. Rap off, or finish up B.

Start up Mummy's Old Carrots, clip the anchor and climb past the fixed nut into the crack below the roof. Follow this all the way until it fizzles out past multiple blobs of old coach screw. Back jump (consider re-aiding if too tired) to clean. Whispers amongst the local trees suggest that back in the day this was in the realm of 28/29 but someone local and wise may have some more solid information on this (as well as the real name and FA).

climb blankness R of Tilt. Clip Ubolt on ledge before lurching out into space. Rebolted 2018.

Middle crack - turn the lip then to top, mantle to finish.

The outrageous roof crack so steep you climb downwards.

Start: Traverse in from the left or climb 'Foreplay' then reset anchor at the back of the roof.

Through offwidth crack which slowly tapers all the way down to nothing before opening up again and then up the headwall.

Headpointing comes to the mountains. First ascent was done using toprope rehearsal in order to clean and find the line. A ground-up ascent is possible just committing.

Start on arete at base off steep gully and at the beginning of the left leading diagonal break.

Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible. Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush.

Thin and powerful. 6 rings and #3 Friend. Lower off last bolt.

Not including unclimbed projects, this is the hardest climb in Nerriga.

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

A link of Chaos Roof and Where Iron Crosses Grow. Start as for Chaos Roof. Up past the first few bolts to the roof and instead of pulling the roof move, step L and up into the roof of WICG.

The deceptive and desperate face right of 'Moonsong' with four bolts. The crux is at the top; move left to trad belay.

A good trad pitch on perfect rock with ample protection and amazing movement.

Frees the old aid climb "Information".

1. Start up the off width corner, 'Oleo' and then traverse left along the finger crack that trends slightly downwards. Perfect gear all along the crack although hard to place on lead in many places so running out the cruxes is the way to go. Technical movement on bad feet and flaring, slopey finger locks along almost the whole route is the name of the game. Finish at the far left arête and do the second pitch from there.

2. From the far left arete, continue to follow the rising crack traverse to the far left of this wall and top out to the summit from there. Technical, balancey movement for the grade and good small cams for protection. Trad belays.

Up chimney to ledge. Pull onto beautiful blank wall & boulder your way up the thin cryptic crack to the top.

First ascent was in commemoration to Yanick Jean-legros & Andrew Abel - both loosing there lives in the mountains

First two pitches as for Siblings of the Sun. Then from the second belay go directly up to join a hand crack (rather than trending right and up from this belay, which is Siblings). From here continue up the soaring line of bolts with increasing difficulty, with the final 2 pitches tackling the orange headwall (5m L of Siblings' last 3 pitches).

1. 25m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2.

3. -m (23)

4. -m (23)

5. -m (24)

6. 25m (25) The first 10m is a bit of a contrived squeeze onto Siblings, with rotten bolts and rock which was only ever spot cleaned.

7. 25m (27) Also great. The only headwall route which is on til the very top. Rebolted recently (2015), so until p6 is fixed its an excellent single pitch rap-in option. All bolts with 1 or 2 optional bits of trad.

Great climbing on the wall just right of 'Olympus Mons'.

"This is the way the world ends, not with a bang but a whimper" (T. S. Elliot's The Hollow Men). Fantastic hard climbing. Big moves or big whippers! Stick clip the high first bolt and climb the awesome seam past another 7 or so fixed hangers. Bring trad for between the first two bolts (#0.4-#0.75 cams, small wires). Continue past the lower offs and top the cliff for full value - hopefully the anchor will be moved up next rebolt.

1. 12m (25)

2. 25m (27)

3. 20m (27)

Single 40m pitch overhanging ~12m, half on gear and half on bolts, starting from trad belay (BD #1 and #2) 6m left of the start of Two Nobodies.

Up flake feature past 5 bolts. Hard moves off #0.75/#1 cams, then 3 more bolts of punchy climbing to #1, #0.4 and #4 cams to major horizontal. 2 more bolts leads to the upper crux, rising traverse left across a weird hanging feature (avoid trending right into death choss). #2/#3 cams in break below the final roof, then punch out the roof and overhanging prow on amazing pocket jugs, protected by #0.3 and #0.5 cams, leading to final mantle and anchor.

Can escape the crag from here via P3 (22) of Two Nobodies.

Gear: BD #0.3 to #4, with doubles of #0.75, #1 and #2.

Start 6m left of Eternity.

Easiest access is to rap down Date with Density and walk 100m west along the base to the start. Or, rap 2/3rds the way down Slipstream to the big ledge/scree slope, then walk 30m to the left (looking out) on slopey ledge to DUB at top of arete. 30m rap to DUB then 35m rap to ground. U-Bolts and gear.

1. 33m (23) Up left-facing corner (large wires, cams up to hand-size) for 15m past bushes. Hand traverse L along ledge to u-bolt, then diagonally left to arete and up to DUB. 7 u-bolts and gear.

2. 30m (27) Up stunning arete. 8 U-bolts. If you rapped the line put a 1m sling on the 2nd bolt when rapping the route so you can get out if you can't pull the moves. Or bring a stick up to the ledge, or just rap off and escape up Slipstream.

Orsum Rock And Nice Gear Everywhere - Just Ask Mikl (O.R.A.N.G.E. J.A.M.)

The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. Can be done in one pitch but be careful with rope length. This nook is surprisingly hot on sunny mornings; e.g. if the Boyce maximum is 7C with 30-50km/h W-SW wind, you will be too hot here in the sun. The route goes into shade about 1pm.

1. 20m 27 The crack, to DRB. Lots of thin gear, some is not easy to place on lead.

2. 37m 19, dirtier but easier. 1 FH. U-bolts and carrots at back of ledge for belay.

Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream.

1. 30m Start up CL for half a dozen bolts or so before drifting left into Excelsior at about 3/4 height. Some small cams for the crack or very runout to DRBB.

2. 23m (27) Bronco style up arete and through roof to join Bareback.

Steve's contribution to trad climbing. A bit cruxy since a hold broke, but still well worthwhile. The crux is bolt protected. Take 2 or 3 #0.5 camalots, plus singles up to #3.

Up to first bolt, up.

Start: As for LL.

Some of the finest and most "out-there" arete climbing in the Blueys, with tonnes of exposure, and situated on one of the most sought-after bits of real estate around.

Access as for The Horror.

1. 15m (21) As for P1 of The Horror. This pitch can (and should) be linked into the next one (and was on the FA). 1 Bolt, 2 x #0.75, #1, #3, #4.

2. 25m (23) All trad! Up the face to gain hanging fused corner system, then sporty moves up linked corners, flakes and prows to semi-hanging belay on small ledge. #0.2, #0.3, #0.4, 2 x #1, 2 x #2, 2 x #3, 2 x #4, #5.

3. 32m (27) Hard, sustained, steep, scary. One of the best bits of arete climbing in the Blueys. Up the arete, though several rooflets, concluding with a wild finale to gain a cozy belay on a hanging prow. 8 Bolts, optional #0.5 near the top.

4. 35m (23) Very hard moves to gain the second bolt above the roof (its about gr21 if you pull up to the first bolt), then easier face climbing on gear to bolt near the top. Straight up the face from here, then -where it turns to dirt- truck right on obvious break (#2) to prow, and up this to anchor. 3 Bolts, Thread, #0.2/0.3, 2 x #0.75, 2 x #1, 3 x #2, 2 x #3, #4.

Frothy Thomson on the First Ascent of Darkest Congo

A proper long and overhanging monster. The money pitch is 65m long, and overhangs more than 20m!!! Surely there isn't much like that in the Blueys at the grade? Suffice to say, you will get pumped.

Rock quality is Bell-esque, so adjust stars accordingly.

1. 65m (27) - Intimidating! 11 bolts to join Gaze a Gazely stare just above the roof, then continue upwards forever. Strategic long/giant runners, and roller biners essential ! See Gaze for necessary rack for this pitch.

2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and bolt belay.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1x #0.4 (x2 if linking P1 and P2), #0.75, #1, #4.

1. 30m (27) - 7 Bolts and a #0.4 Cam (to protect the final move to the anchor).

2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.75 and #1 Cam to anchor.

3. 25m (21) - 5 Bolts to anchor.

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

One of the more varied bits of climbing around. Start up "beat up and thrown out" then follow the steel out right, pumpy and powerful to the top

bring one plate for the glue in carrot or improvise

The big time route of the quarry. First cleaned by Hill until he got bored with it and gave it to Ralph who finished the job. the climb was done over many weekends as the bumbling Ralph pushed the standards to the min. Apart from all this shit the climb is absolutely worthless and has the 'very' chopped look about it. if you want to fuck around for days trying to get up this mother then you're quite welcome to it, some of the locks are pretty sharp and there aren't many footholds on the whole climb so forget about good boots.

(1) The groove to the right of C. Climb the shallow groove on finger locks. As you would expect the runners are pretty tricky to get in and this will probably consume most of your time and flesh.

1. 25m (27) Up Boyzone corner for 10m then step left (BR). Through roof to flake (BR) then up to break. Move right and up to roof (BR), then launch out big roof to BR on lip. Continue up to belay on BRs on B P2.

2. 20m (27) Over rooves and up (BRs and a large cam) to belay on ledge as for B P3.

3. 30m As for B P4.

This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear.

Obvious finger crack, rap rings over the lip.

In welsh means "sloping lands", and is the name of a local river. funnily enough originates from Gwynedd where i was last working. Basically, poorly protected first moves gets you to a piton, then the crux.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638935338/

Excellent finger crack to DBB at top of cliff. Mostly finger-sized gear, but some big cams (#4+) are essential to protect the first hard moves. http://www.flickr.com/photos/kandk/4117216050/in/photostream/

The bolts were bad 20 years ago!

Start: 12m right of RTT. cairn.

The name aptly describes the style of climbing at the quarry. Whilst cleaning this route Ferret was heard to mutter 'I don't like frigging climbs, I just do it out of habit.' This baby rears it's ugly bum with the major problem of not having any footholds where it counts, i.e. on the rock. Apart from that little drawback it's quite a good climb up a very thin finger crack, creeps with fat digits: better pound them down with a hammer or blow them off with explosives if they want to get up this unit.

(1) The next crack in the wall to the right of SS.

Amazing climbing up a long blunt arete, but quite tough. Just a single aid move low-down on the route! Bring a light rack for the initial start up Mixed Business.

Start as for Mixed Business. Up to first bolt on MB, then follow line of bolts heading left to the arete. Aid off first bolt on the arete, then climb free to the top.

Steep with a difficult move to reach the lip. Start as for OE or LWF and climb either of these for the first 5m before stepping onto the arête. Follow this to the first roof, step R under this, up a move then a hard move out L to the lip. Finish up the face to the lower off on OE below the death choss at top.

Seam 3 m left of big roof, stick clip high first bolt. Offset wire blue DMM, #0.75 cam and micro cam needed before crack closes. Continue up groove through small roof up high

1. 25m (23) Up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height.

2. 25m (26) continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

The step shaped crack 40m right of 'Scaramouche'.

Hard... It was crushed into submission. The overhanging crack on the boulder downhill from the cave, and right of the final 'Little Hermes' belay, with fingerlocks, hand jams and barndooring layaways.

Tackles the steep orange wall starting left of the finish of 'Rise and Fall' (and 10m left of its start). Up past four bolts (crux at second) then generally straight up to an easier finish past some good placements.

The thin crack up the prominent orange streak; follow the crack up through two more bulges.

Thin crack on left wall of main corner.

An all time classic, the beginning of the new wave at Bungonia. The corner crack start is back down and behind the massive jumble of collapsed boulders that peeled away from the bottom of the 'South Wall' when dinosaurs ruled the Earth. 14 quickdraws, including some extenders. Mostly bolts, but take a single set of cams (#0.4-3 camalot) - doubles of 0.75, 1 and 2 for extra comfort - and wires. A second blue camalot (or a big hex) makes the first pitch more comfortable, but you won't need it higher up.

1. 25m (22) The corner, 3 bolts and friends. Belay chain on top of the pedestal.

2. 35m (21) Clip a bolt and move directly up from the belay. Past a few more bolts before traversing a long way right to a DBB on a small ledge. Ignore the line of bolts that goes up about halfway through the traverse

3. 40m (23) Move 2m right, step up and clip a bolt, move up to another, and pull a tricky slab move. Follow the bolts plus some wires up to the belay seat.

4. 35m (22) Move a metre right and clip a bolt in the bulge. Up to a tree/ledge, then up and left to a groove (friends). Traverse 5m left at the top to a DBB and a mostly hanging belay; this is a terrible belay stance considering that there is a big cave/ledge/orifice 5m R which is actually on the line of the route. Hopefully these old belay bolts will be replaced soon and moved 5m R into the comfy cave at the same time.

5. 30m (21) Move 5m back right and bridge up the invaginated orifice (med cams). Step out (wires) and move up to a bolt. Keep heading up and a tad left. Take care on the unprotectable loosish orange rock for the easy last 10m up to the DBB at the base of the beautiful orange headwall.

6. 25m (24) The business. Step left, clip a bolt and cruise up the heart of the amazing orange headwall. A host of wires and friends supplemented by 5 bolts in all. Mega classic and pumpy. DBB on ledge.

7. 15m (26) 5 bolts to DBB. Madonna. Unfortunately this pitch has several chipped holds.

8. 20m (18) Leftwards sloping ramp past 4-5 bolts, thread & small-med cams, to chains just back from the lip. Walk out.

Direct through the small roof below the 2nd belay on 'Strangeness and Charm'. Rather extreme. Straight up to the roof using side runners. Slot a 1 friend in the roof, clip a bolt and swing over the roof (crux). Continue past three more bolts.

Not very nice.

Start: 5 or 6m down left of SoH.

Climb buttress past 5 BR then when 5m above last BR, traverse right into SoH.

Good, hard slab climbing!

Start: Step right 1.5m from the belay of 'The Howling'. Brushed strip past 2BR to bulge, hard moves over this past BR to stance, head up slab past BR to belay as per TH.

Amazing steep line following the crack where the roof of the cave joins the wall. Stickclip and Batman 4m to DUB anchor on ledge avoiding damaging vegetation. Climb steep corner on jugs and small crimps and follow crack under roof. Exit roof and follow easy crack for few meters. Downclimb and back clean, no anchors.

Arapiles style Trad climbing with bouldery moves and rad jugs. Bomber gear and easy to place... get on it.. DBB.

Start: Wall on right. Bolts.

Short. Start a few metres left of the "39 Steps" ladder on ledge at brightly painted "T".

Start: Right of S. Up the prow.

50m left of Apostle of Ahisma at Right end of buttress.

P1 (25m - 26) - Traverse left to arete and up past 3 bolts and wires to DBB.

P2 (27m - 21) - Slab past 3 bolts, then right of arete and up to top past nuts and more bolts.

"Life without meaning".

An old-school outing. Obsessively climbs the arête between Big Red and It Came From Outer Space for the entire length of the buttress, sharing about 20m of climbing with ICFOS.

Can be climbed as anywhere from 1 to 4 pitches, with the First Ascent being climbed as a 15m pitch and a 55m pitch, belayed from the ground the entire time.

1. 15m (21) - Committing. Start up Big Red for a few moves (wires) until you can clip the carrot out right. Traverse hard right across the face to hanging-arête, then up this trending right (to follow the arête) with committing moves above gear to gain carrot, and eventually 2 x carrot bolt belay. (2 x carrots, Wires, BD #0.4, #3, #4).

2. 25m (26) - Up the arête with a very hard start past 2 x U-bolts, then intimidating and sustained climbing directly up the arête on carrots and gear to 3 x carrot bolt belay. Be very careful with how the rope runs on this pitch to avoid wear/cutting. (3 x carrots, 2 x U-Bolts, 2 x BD #0.5, #0.3).

3. 15m (23) - As for It Came From Outer Space: up insecure arête with a rather demanding crux section to 2 x carrot bolt belay. (6 x carrots).

4. 15m (21) - Directly up the arête with a few tricky moves to top-out and belay chain. 3 x carrots, 1 x U-bolt, BD #1).

Start 2m left of Charity.

Mixed extension to Once You Bolt Crack. Pass the anchors and 5 bolts get you through the crux, then gear to the top. Gear is quite specific. FA placed green and yellow aliens, single set of C4s from 0.5 to 2, though more could be placed.

Seam crack through roof. Originally attempted on gear by Damian Taylor and sundry.Chris Coghill, added some bolts when his gear started falling out. Rohan took offense, chopped the bolts and climbed this natural masterpiece And the world was a more ethical and morally brighter place. Amen.

A wild pitch of face climbing, starting from the major ledge halfway down the wall right of Echo Crack. Rather complicated to get to.

Mostly bolted, but sparsely so. Bring cams 0.3 to 0.75 for the traverse exit to P2.

1. 40m (26) Traverse right from the belay, then very hard moves to get started, followed by sustained face climbing with some wild runouts. 2 Bolt belay.

2. 10m (18) As for Alive in a Bitter Sea, traverse left past carrots and some trad gear to belay at the top of Echo Crack.

Entry level at the grade -but very involved, despite the objectively soft grading.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1 x #0.3, #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #4; 3 x #3; 4 x #1; and at least 7 Long Runners.

1. 45m (26) - Gear in Order: Bolt + LR, #0.3 + #2 + XLR, Bolt + LR, #1, #3 (Optional), Bolt, #3, #0.5 (Optional), Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #4 (Optional), #1 + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + XLR, #1 (Optional), #0.4, #0.75/#1 (Optional), #3, Bolt, to 2 Bolt anchor.

2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and Bolt anchor.

Significantly harder than its righthand neighbour.

As for Gaze a Gazely Stare to the #3 Cam slot above its 3rd bolt, then take the lefthand line.

Gaze, then: Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #0.3, Bolt, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.3, #1, #0.3, #.75, Bolt, #1.

Should win an award for worst route name? Impressive looking wall directly above Redfish Bluefish. 30 year old bolts are probably totally unusable - they look very rusty from below. 2001 guide says the top belay is off shrubs - yikes! Looks like a contender for a rebolt. Ignore the stars until it gets a makeover.

Greg originally graded this 24. At the time he usually only needed 1-2 attempts to get a 24 so he figured that 3 attempts would be a hard 24.

It was only when Steve Monks repeated it a few months later and told Greg that it was the best 26 he's done for long time that we knew what the real grade was.

Belay in the corner with a few medium cams. Up the wall to a big move, reachy. About 23 to the crux, then it gets hard for the last few moves. Take a bolt bracket.

Line of 3 U-bolts up slightly sandy rock. Thread runner can be used between bolts 1 and 2.

Line of 3 bolts thru scoops and pockets to a powerful Nowra like crux. Great rock and wicked moves. Small cam in the top slot protects the last moves.

The R-ward leaning major diagonal flake on the R side of Windjammer Wall. Start a couple of metres R of Feeding Frenzy, about 10m below a small rooflet. Up, tending R to a U-bolt at beginning of flake, then follow the flake and crack diagonally R to the top.

The R-leaning shallow flake in the headwall that is L of the main overlap (Liquid Lunch). Start just to the R of the centre of Windjammer Wall beneath the flake. Climb the easy lower part of the wall (bolt) to the flake, move L near the top to finish.

Follows the thin, right-sloping crack on the headwall R of Windjammer. Up suspect rock to the base of the crack. Follow the bolts below the slanting crack to the top. This route has been heavily retrobolted by Blowing in the Wind (see the notes for the extension to that route).

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.