Routes as boulder in Western Australia

Low start with obvious low flakes (low left hand sidepull and right hand under the roof) and left toe. Hard starting move up to the diagonal flake and then up to jug rail to topout on the slab. The pedestal supporting the rock is out. Estimated 13/14? Has been done from one move in (starting with right hand gaston on the flake) clocks in at ~V10/11 Has also been done in two overlapping halves from the start (T Farrell 2023)

Start with There Will Be Blood, but instead of topping out use the edges on problem #39 to come across to The Katana and finish on The Katana. A long endurance test piece that will certainly be a hard link up. Adds in a hard crux of coming down of the starting edge of #39 to the start of The Katana. Could probably shake out stemming between the Katana and Blood boulders... Contrived...

Start as 'The Sweetest Contrivances' then traverse left through the overhang to link into 'Drop It Like It's Hot'. Pumpy and hard. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=126

SDS on good hold, long move up to gain the crimp-plate. Climb the left hand side of the boulder with awesome stretched out compression moves. Stick left for the send. Easier the taller you are.

Andy

Robin Y

Sit start on the far right arete as for 'Mrs Potato Head'. Traverse left with long move to undercling flake to gain the stand start for 'To Infinity and Beyond'. Epic!

https://vimeo.com/268975880

Sit start with sharp crimps under the stand of 'To Infinity and Beyond'

https://vimeo.com/327248010

Sit start compressing the boulder. Climb a ~V8/9 compression sequence into the V11 stand start. Awesome, sustained climbing.

Adds a move into the 'crouch' starting with the right hand dish and slightly higher left hand originally opened by legendary Andy Lampard. https://vimeo.com/264036730

Sit start at the bottom of the obvious crack in the roof and up. The holds run out and force a massive throw to good holds near the lip of the roof.

Sit start in the back of the cave and squeeze your way out the middle bulge with the slopey pinches to a cut loose at the lip. All time South West roof climbing in an outrageous position!

Start on pinchy block to a hard sloper traverse into underclings and wild cross-throughs to crimps up high. Hard. Stand start at the undercling is V9. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjrW3GyEhlU

A foot at the start has broken since the FA making the start harder... the full opening sequence has been done post break now - possibly V12 for the full line post break

Sit start in the cave on the sidepulls (left flatty, right crimp). Big moves up to positive left pinch then right crimp with poor feet. Awesome feature.

Start as 'Crimping Ain't Easy'. Come out left to sloper and then straight up from sloper. Adds some hard moves to the original. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=320

Classic lowball. Sit start with good slot right down low as for 'Heuco at Home'. Climb up, and trend left (avoid good jugs of 'Heuco at Home'). Establish on small right-hand crimp, followed by a big drop knee move to reach the far-away left hand crimp. Hold the tension and try top out!

Robin Y

Start as 'Finding Max', but once you gain the right hand in the sharp jug up high drop down to finish as 'Lock It Down' instead of following the crack on the left. https://youtu.be/OJLEjkm5UdI

Still a proj?

Sit start left arete as for 'Smooth Jazz, sit start', up to the start jug of Mr Bump, then link right to V-Juice(Stand) holds and finish as for 'Finger Hooks'.

Surprising and technical beta, Powerful and hard, and has been linked in two overlapping segments. Power endurance beast

Sit start with left hand jug and right hand low side pull. Hard burly compression sequence into the stand.

https://www.instagram.com/p/ByUBgfAjWjH/

https://youtu.be/4K0QTDkKRSI

Sit start on the good right hand ledge and small left hand crimp with a right heel hook. Squeeze your way up the bulge and trend right to the horizontal break, then finish as for 'Stand Alone'. Avoid transitioning into 'Stand Alone' before the horizontal break. https://vimeo.com/177325958

Open project.

Jump start. Up the arete. Tall obvious arete. https://vimeo.com/383043376

Stand start on the obvious flat rail in the middle of the overhung face. Shoulder up to the obvious juggy feature from a tiny crimp and reel yourself up for the massive finishing dyno. Hard and classic. "this isn't flying it's falling with style"

https://vimeo.com/264040170

Sit start deep in the roof on the obvious flat jug on the left. Move right into hard moves to join the stand - 'Absolution'.

https://youtu.be/dt2dJuzYuf0

Stand start wide with good left hand and right hand on poor slopey features. Stretch out those legs and jam a right heel to cross over to the good holds up high and top out. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bpz1wIIBJSe/

The right heel hook hold has since been broken

Sit start as for 'Stone Unturned'. From the jugs go left to the arete then straight up to the obvious orange bloc above the jug flake. Avoiding going right to the flake (Steep Edges) or going left to join the slab of ‘Old Gods’ (Knowing Is Half The Battle).

Stand start from jug undercling FA 24/4/22 V9/10? Michael T

https://youtu.be/HeYJEmcRJo4

The stand start. Left hand on sloper and right down low on a positive dimple. Chuck a left heel hook and squeeze your way up with powerful moves. Hard V11. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YXrt1WlZKA

Sit start as Kingslayer low on crack but head straight up with a heinous move to a sharp crimp then out to jugs and an intimidating but easy upper section.

https://youtu.be/T8qFdbWNxgY

Sds on opposing holds, trend diagonally leftward on atrocious crimps and technical, tensiony moves.

Sit start on good holds. Huge move to the sloper to gain the stand. The kicker down low is in.

Sit start on the rail and up the roof/right arete. Hard jump to finish. https://youtu.be/09Pcj6TQbjM?t=1m6s

Sit start with the two pockety features under the overhang (left hand on pocket right on crimpy pocket) with far left heel hook. Straight up, squeezing the undulating features into a juggy but heady top.

Up to the left of ramble on. Start low on the rail and then up. https://vimeo.com/199656389 https://vimeo.com/312103531

Sit start as Half The World Away then traverse right on the horizontal breaks to finish as 'Ramble On'. Awesome! Avoid going down into the undercling system down low. https://vimeo.com/190715338

Sit start with left hand on the slopey rail, right hand on the crimpy undercling. Gain the left hand triangle crimp and trend right to the pinch-block. Finish with a committing dyno, then top out as per other variants. Eliminates the jugs to the right of the thin crack next to the right start hold. https://vimeo.com/156231039

Three moves... sit start on positive holds, up to sidepull then catch the massive barndoor with slopey undercling. Powerful. https://vimeo.com/136427795

Stand start on low left hand undercling and right hand high on slopey crimp. Hard start, then dyno to lip. https://vimeo.com/119337880

Note: Unfortunately the crimp that you dyno to has broken. The climb remains possible, with a bigger dyno to the lip and a larger swing out. Re-opened 5/6/22 by Tom O'Hallorhan! https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg

Start as for 'A Glass Cage of Emotion' then link in to exit back and left as for 'The Cougar'. Pumpy and resistant.

Taran

Sit start on scoop as for shambala and trend left in the roof to crimps on the nose of the boulder. One of the best bits of steep granite in the state. Low percentage crux. A classic. Stand ~V10ish. https://vimeo.com/28345305

3m of climbing on inward facing crimps on a steep face lead to a scary 5m slab. Shouldery, hard. Fragile holds. https://youtu.be/Ky45gPjB-pM

Unfortunately since the FA the final crimp of the crux (left hand gaston at the lip) appears to have been chipped using an angle grinder to make it a better hold. This makes the grade closer to V11

Follow the crack starting right in the cave. Powerful on good holds. Awesome feature, classic.

Andy L.: https://vimeo.com/120233539

Clinton M.: https://youtu.be/kjrW3GyEhlU

Will A: https://vimeo.com/221130834

Sit start on obvious rail on left. Traverse right with long shouldery moves on crimps. Finish with a tricky slab top out. Located between 'Man in the Middle' and 'Steel City Groove'.

https://vimeo.com/339737416

The right hand arete. https://vimeo.com/28654297

Start on right side-pull and left arete. Slap up aretes to top. https://vimeo.com/28654297

Sit start in the low left hand scoops. Strenuous moves through the scoops and up to the sloper rail. Big finishing move from a good edge to the top. Classic!

https://youtu.be/5B1NWxgTYmg

Start far under to dihedral, inside cave on a obvious good edge. Slap left along slopey traverse with smears and heel hooks to committing finish. HARD

Top out - adds a massive move off bad feet to the slopey lip and a sketchy top out. Adds at least a grade or two... Make your you have some spotters for this one!

‘Cosmic Artefact’ into ‘Special Relativity’. Mega pump fest with awesome moves…

Sit start with hands matched in the slopey dish on the right. Tricky and draining sequence to gain the stand.

Awesome tall, steep compression line on perfect rock.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiHmGKSFvRw

Sit start on the right of the sharp arete with left hand pinch and right hand jug flake and then up the arete.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQQskgGla3Y

Stand start FA by Andy Lampard.

Start as for 'Mulighted' then link into 'The Sandgroper'. Power endurance epic. https://youtu.be/GbWk69FEaAo

First move jug broke off. Small sharp crimps there now but still doable.

Re-opened post-break Aug 2023 - M. Taran. Doesn't change the grade significantly.

Sit start as for ‘Smooth Jazz, sit start’, link right via the start of ‘Mr Bump’ to finish as for ‘V-Juice’. Heart breaker finish throw. Bit of a participant award for the full link…

Start as for 'Special Relativity' climb ‘Special Relativity’ to the jug flake then double back and finish as ‘Cosmic Artefact’. Another pumpy one to train on

Reverse the compression sequence making the shoulder crux of ‘The Accretion Disc’ an epic.

Stand start the sharp arete with right hand pinch and left hand sidepull edge. Up the arete with tricky moves and a committing finish! Mega classic!

Sit start as 'Stone Unturned', instead of going to the flake out right head out left with a tricky sequence to finish as 'Old Gods'. Sustained and tricky. https://youtu.be/JUvPAtxpaS4

The left starting foothold broke off in early November 2022 and new beta for the start had to be unlocked. The line was re-opened 20/11/22 - M. Taran

Start as 'Old Meets New' and traverse right to finish at the orange bloc with a big lob for the lip.

https://youtu.be/z8t5qBJs0YU

Start as Ken Lee/Direct. Instead of going up to the jug flake - eliminate the jug and take a crimpy traverse right. Contrived, but cool movement and worth the effort! Sustained crimping.

https://youtu.be/SIq0JwAlngc

As Sea Hagg, avoiding using the the left hand boulder. https://youtu.be/Ol0xdcNH8cQ

Sit start under black streaks and slap your way up. Desperate..

Sit start on rail down low then trend right and up to crux slab moves. Avoid coming out of the roof rightwards, instead stay under using powerful moves to gain the high break and up the stand. https://vimeo.com/28765825

Sit start. Powerful jump between rails. Span (Will - FA) - https://vimeo.com/181463319 Double Clutch (Andy) - https://vimeo.com/183158439

Originally "Dyno To Guppy" - the guppy has since broken off leaving a much bigger dyno to slightly worse holds. Sit start right on obvious vertical seam and left on high crimp - move up to good holds then into the stand start.

Stand start V9/10ish.

Bulk hard move from the undercling up and right and top out easily.

Sit start as per the Right Variant (and avoids jugs out right). Go directly up with left hand to a small crimp with thumb-catch, then bump in with right hand to a higher under-cling. With awkward feet, bump left hand up to decent (but far-away) jug. Finish as per other variants.

Classic from Andy Lampard. Start lying down on left hand jug and right hand sharp undercling and double toehooks in the crack. Work your way up to the jug then trend left with interesting beta towards the left corner and top. Avoid dabbing the boulder behind you. Core intensive!

Andy

Start low on slopey holds. Up into slopey fins in the roof and out as for 'Pebbles Variant'. Tensiony transitioning into 'Pebbles Variant' and blasting to the jugs. V10/11?

Sit start with left heel hook on large flake, and right hand on undercling. Hard first move to nasty left hand sloper. Top out as per 'Drop it Like it's Hot'.

5:23 at Robin Y

Start as ‘Lock It Down’ then throw out left from the jug and finish as for ‘Finding Max’. Cool.

Contrived - an eliminate. The eliminate has been lost into the depths of time... who knows really? Swing feet to opposite boulder to top out.

Start squeezing bulge then out right to thumb-catch pinch. Powerful moves to slab. Improbable. https://vimeo.com/100421471

Stand start in the grin and up. Awesome problem on gently overhanging face. https://vimeo.com/335664360

Stand start on the obvious flake then trend left through crimps. Massive left hand throw then top out. Classic. https://vimeo.com/183098094

Sit start with left hand sidepull and right hand on the triangle block. Up crimps to a good right hand sidepull.https://vimeo.com/179857473

Sit start with right hand on the sloping sidepull - long move left to a crimp. Slap up to the lip and slabby topout.

Start with left hand on the sloped face and right hand on low undercling. Powerful first move and wild barndoor to hold. https://vimeo.com/28658627

Start on crimps on the left and long move to nipple pinch.

Crouch start with the obvious triangular edge/flake. Up the overhanging bulge with awesome compression moves into a heady top out! One of the best!

https://youtu.be/J7jbc5ySP-A

Stand start with obvious jug on the right. Follow the undercling leftwards to a jug on the corner. Switch around and finish up the rising sloper traverse 'Overvalued Ideation', avoiding exiting the slopey rail early. Pumpy and weird.

Originally opened 24 Feb 2019, a key crux foot hold broke off making the original sequence impossible. Reopened 5 Feb 2020 with a new harder first crux.

http://youtu.be/31y3i-VJCK0

Start deep in the right hand side of the sandy cave. Head left from the start to link into ‘rage cage’ and finish on the Monkey Bar. Pumpy and awesome.

https://youtu.be/UU-0gtIwGoM

Sit start deep in the cave matched on the slopey hold. Tricky moves on roof crimps into a big move to gain jugs and topout easily as for 'Binary Star System'. Radical roof climbing. https://youtu.be/lA6VmPsRdkI?t=128

Sit start in the mini-cave. Hard starting moves and then up with long moves through the face. https://vimeo.com/230745634 https://youtu.be/4OZTHPyzWns?t=530

Crouch start with left hand undercling and right hand sidepull. Massive first move to hueco. A radical downward climbing compression roof! https://vimeo.com/116934056

Sit start - left hand side pull, right hand undercling. Slap your way along the sloper rail to the top. Powerful yet subtle. https://vimeo.com/136599365

Stand start with right hand pinch and left hand crimp.

Start on the triangle. Up to edges to finish. Classic. https://vimeo.com/120233539

Sit start as for Cruisey Corner, traverse right using the crack and around the corner to finish as per 'Earth Boy'. Interesting movement, very tensiony.

https://vimeo.com/433077082

Sit start with good pockets. Big move to top out.

Stand start with underclings. Up the proud arete with burly and technical moves. All time highball. https://vimeo.com/327429795

Transition under the roof then instead of compressing quest into the main cave with shoulder moves. A drop off matched at the obvious jug slot of the flake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqRRe-UzzAA

Transition under the roof to the compression sequence then instead of continuing under the roof transition back around to the main face with awkward moves to gain the face and topout. A bit dabby.

Start with left hand flake right hand crack. Traverse the crack up with tricky feet and a lot of dabby moves into a cruxy finish. Awkward and dabby, but cool.

Sit start. Up the face with hard opening moves to gain the jugs. Trend right to long reach up to undercling and a desperately slopey topout.

Jump start to the jugs = V2/3ish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfhKsWDm9ic

Stand start matched on the jug undercling as for 'Steep Edges', but instead of going to the flake out right head out left to the arete with a tricky sequence to join the slab of 'Old Gods'.

Sit start as 'Old Meets New' but traverse right to finish as for 'Steep Edges'.

https://youtu.be/2YA5F81qSDs

Sit start on the jutting feature and then up the arete then trend left through sloper and jug. https://youtu.be/lZpTkcWgLsk

Sit start low in the obvious layback seam, big move out right to the jug then jug it up for the easy top out. The jugs up high have since torn off and the problem has now been done again with the new, slightly harder, topout by Davide Cora as of Jan 2018.

https://youtu.be/J-z27-wcP14

Stand start after the long sloper traverse. Cool offwidth climbing!

Sds with hands on the horizontal sloper edge under the steep. Nice moves through the roof with a hard deadpoint in the middle.

Start at the back of the cave and climb out via 'Belly of the Beast Low' to finish as 'Leonardo DaPinchi'. Pumpy, but there's a good no-hands kneebar rest before the final crux.

Sit start with obvious horn at the back of the cave. Out with powerful and tensiony moves.

https://youtu.be/pNfVzlI8Mgw

Sit start on the right and traverse left into the original. Bit of a consolation prize for the sitter...