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Ascents in Oceania as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

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Showing 1,001 - 1,100 out of 1,174 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
12 11 Lizard Procrastination Trad 40m Very Good
Varied and enjoyable. An easier variation for guiding is to go R around the corner on the second pitch, makes the whole route about 9.

 
18 Riddled Trad 18m Good
Despite appearances it's worthwhile! Not the greatest gear (or rock obviously) so don't make it your first 18.

 
21 English Ethics Mixed trad 15m, 1 Very Good
I really like this one.

 
21 Cruel Consistency Trad 15m Average
I find the rock and gear to be poor on this, I wouldn't lead this again.

 
21 Wrap-around Sunglasses Mixed trad 15m, 1 Don't Bother
24 Use Me and Abuse Me Mixed trad 15m, 2 Average
The bolts flex alarmingly

 
Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall
23 Beside Myself Mixed trad 30m, 2 Good
Thought this was good but not two stars. Have done second pitch, remember it being loose feeling and not much gear but don't remember the climbing being great. Might be worth doing it again.

 
23 Dead Metaphor Trad 25m Classic
21 Skydiver Trad 30m Very Good
Great climb. Reachy at the top.

 
25 Mixed Metaphor Mixed trad 25m, 5 Good
Toproped as, like all of Gordy's bolts it seems, they are non stainless and already rusted to crap.

 
22 Spasticus Autisticus (Spasticus Autisticus (Not Autisticus Spasticus)) Mixed trad 17m, 3 Average
I find this quite hard, and not that much fun. Others seem to like it.

 
22 Easy Does It Mixed trad 12m, 2 Good
Tricky and pumpy at the top

 
22 Free Admission Trad 12m Very Good
Great! I really like this one.

 
23 23 R Even More Moves Trad 12m Good
The only route I've ever done that it's handy to have 2 x #4RPs. Still a bit bold.

 
19 19 R Coke Adds Life Trad 12m Good
A little scary as the gear gets better the higher you go. Fairly tough.

 
21 Smile Trad 12m Good
21? Edwin brushing the crux hold on lead before pulling the move is stylistically still one of the most impressive ascents I've seen.

 
Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork
23 Purple Denotes Bruising Mixed trad 10m, 3 Average
This is the only route I can think of that I don't think should have been rebolted. The bolts were so obviously rubbish from the day they were put in that it made it quite atmospheric - a bolted death route. Now it's not really worth doing, as the climbing is just average.

 
22 Maternity Wear Trad 15m Average
Not worth a star. Unremarkable rock and climbing

 
23 23 R Kookenhagen Mixed trad 20m, 1 Average
Not worth a star. There is gear to protect you before the bolt but the rock is pretty questionable. Climbing isn't that special.

 
18 King Rat Trad 20m Good
One star. Amazingly steep,but the rock feels dubious.

 
22 Glory Rodent Trad 20m Classic
Fabulous steep jamming. Wonderful.

 
23 23 R Luxury Item - with Marty Trad 15m Don't Bother
Not that great. RPs at the start, it's a bit bold but the climbing and rock are not that great.

 
Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
15 Scylla Trad 15m Good
Tough!

 
18 I'm A Little Asteroid Trad 25m Good
I think these routes are good, but not really two stars.

 
18 I'm A Little Dinosaur Trad 25m Good
21 Feel It Closing In Mixed trad 12m, 1 Good
Really quite tricky

 
Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
King Rat Area Bum Rocks
22 Fingersmith Mixed trad 16m, 2 Average
Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully
24 Hunger - with Stuart Williams Mixed trad 20m, 1 Average
I thought it was awful - harsh rock and ugly climbing - but I see Steve's post saying it was great. May be worth revisiting. Anchor was crap 20 years ago.

 
Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
King Rat Area White Mice Walls
18 Thighs and Quivers Trad 20m Crap
Absolute rubbish

 
Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
King Rat Area White Mice Walls
20 Bermuda Triangle - with Gordy Trad 12m Good
Good, fairly tough but hardly worth the walk. The other routes look rubbish.

 
Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
King Rat Area The Pimple
21 Squeeze Me Gently Trad 10m
Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
16 Castration Trad 15m Average
16 The Martyr Trad 11m Don't Bother
24 Petro-Fy Trad 15m Good
Yes would be a very dangerous lead.

 
21 Petronius Trad 15m Good
A really hard lead. Short but difficult to place the gear.

 
14 Nero Trad 13m Good
5 Spasticus Trad 10m Average
Down soloed on sight as the descent... I didn't know it was a climb.

 
21 The Bolt - with Edwin Mixed trad 13m, 1 Average
18 The Rack Trad 13m Good
A bit slimy. Good tho.

 
20 Christian Crack Trad 13m Very Good
Borderline 21. A remarkable lead by a pregnant Anne Pauglik in about 1977.

 
22 Blasphemy Mixed trad 15m, 1 Good
I like this one.

 
17 16 Crucifixion Trad 12m Good
Hard and insecure! Gear is a bit odd too. Take care.

 
26 Fitzroy Street Mixed trad 12m, 4 Don't Bother
The 21 version

 
Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble
20 22 Pinpricks Of Blood Trad 10m
18 Thimble Trad 9m Good
Pretty hard for 17... hard for 18 even! A worthwhile shorty.

 
Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
26 Letting Go Mixed trad 15m, 1
28 Slime Time - with Ingvar Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
Maybe 3 days? Quite good, and not particularly slimy. One slippery hold. Reachy though - there's a move at the start that is about 23 for me and looks 32 for Dave Jones.

 
20 Popeye Trad 20m Don't Bother
All feels loose -not fun really

 
20 The Wizard of Id Trad 10m Average
L at top to chains

 
21 Oogie Boogie Trad 10m Good
hard and gnarly

 
21 19 Sausage Of The Century Trad 12m Good
fun and nice

 
Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
22 Problematic Trad 10m Average
Don't really remember this

 
22 A New Toy Mixed trad 15m, 1 Average
24 Look Sharp Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
OK, a hard crank then insecure.

 
26 Hit the Deck Sport 18m, 4 Good
Interesting and varied, good but not great.

 
21 20 Little Thor Trad 12m Classic
Really good, hard for 20 and a bit greasy now. Take care placing your gear so it doesn't unzip.Gear is good, crux is above gear.

 
16 16 R Marmot's Mall Trad 12m Good
Good climbing, a little greasy now but protection is OK.

 
19 19 R Slip Knot Trad 12m Average
23 Sagittarian Mixed trad 12m, 1 Average
Start is pretty horrible, but finish past the bolt is nice.

 
20 Brit Milah Mixed trad 12m, 2 Average
Okay but not worth a star.

 
21 The Ferrets Are Coming Trad 12m Don't Bother
Greasy and not great climbing.

 
Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae Agamemnon Area
18 Almost Completely Worthless - with Wendy Trad 10m Don't Bother
Almost completely worthless.

 
17 Cruxless Knickers Trad 25m Average
Placing the gear on the crux is harder than the climbing.

 
15 Necrophilliac Trad 25m Good
A good one to learn to jam on, as there are not many face holds to escape onto!

 
19 Telemachus Trad 35m Very Good
The start is great, the top wanders around and the rock quality drops off. I did the finish once, now I just lower off the ring at half height.

 
24 Mixed Blessing Mixed trad 50m, 4 Average
Looks better than it is. The bolts are practically unclippable.

 
11 Agamemnon Trad 40m Classic
Amazing! Varied, exposed, exciting.

 
15 Smooth Journey Trad 44m Average
22 Collision Course Trad 30m Very Good
Hard 22. Powerful crux and varied climbing but not that sustained.

 
26 Golden Gaytime Mixed trad 30m, 3 Good
Good but not two stars. One or no stars

 
26 25 Gay Olympics Mixed trad 20m, 3 Average
Thin and very hard.

 
23 Crows in the Snow Trad 20m Don't Bother
Poor gear, rock, and climbing. I have no idea why it gets a star.

 
Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae Muldoon Area
10 Clytemnaestra Buttress - with Wendy Trad 45m Good
Definitely better than it looks.

 
17 lphigenia - with Jillian Trad 45m Good
Good climbing but the rock quality drops off at the top. Nice pillar to finish on though.

 
13 Muldoon Trad 42m Good
Not that great! Greasy, awkward start. Good steep finish but seems way overrated.

 
Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae House of Atreus
25 Evading Infra-Red Mixed trad 35m, 1 Don't Bother
Very thin hard start. Worthless.

 
17 Surface To Air Trad 30m Classic
I think this is great climbing, much better than Muldoon. Start is fairly hard and not that well protected if 17 is your limit.

 
13 Hell For Leather Trad 30m Very Good
19 21 Blind Profit - with Wendy Mixed trad 30m, 2 Average
Original is too contrived to even work out where you're supposed to go. Step R at the first bolt, back left and then enjoy the fun top roof.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae House of Atreus
20 Tiresias Trad 38m Average
Scrappy climbing then a good roof up high. It is much easier to climb the roof than protect it! There is gear there if you can hang out to place it.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae The Flight Deck
22 22 R Plimsoll Line Trad 15m Don't Bother
Really not that great, and quite scary now that the pins have fallen out.

 
24 23 Orestes - with Duncan Steel Trad 40m Classic
Great climbing but not great rock! I seem to be alone in finding this 24 - it's sustained, steep and the traverse is taxing to protect well. Several people have hurt themselves falling off it.

 
25 Have A Good Flight - with Paul Hoskins Sport 18m, 5 Classic
Great sustained climbing, a little sharp but stays dry unless rain has been heavy. A good one to fall off as it's a good clean fall. Second shot.

 
27 29 Jet Lag Sport 18m, 8 Good
I did the easy start (HAGF), which makes it maybe 27. Good technical climbing. 2 days. On the top wall I remember lunging for a jug, my feet came off and Gareth took in thinking I was coming off - but I held the jug and then had to hold nearly being pulled off. Just squeaked through.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae Cassandra Area
18 Cassandra Mixed trad 40m, 5 Good
Good climbing but greasy rock.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
18 Gilt Edged Trad 40m Average
I remember it being super greasy. Good, but not classic.

 
29 28 Cobwebs Trad 20m Classic
Great route. Classic Arapiles hard route, slopey and slippery and sustained. 6 days, including falling off slapping the last jug...

 
24 Astral Plane Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
Good but not two stars as I recall.

 
24 Entangled Mixed trad 25m, 1 Good
Remarkably worthwhile as a second pitch to Astral Plane. Thin crux past old bolt.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
22 Pwocol Hawum Trad 10m Good
Surprisingly ok

 
18 Wascal Trad 10m Good
Tricky and surprisingly worthwhile

 
16 15 ScarIet Sage Trad 10m Good
Harder and steeper than it looks

 
17 Mexican Madness Trad 10m Don't Bother
22 21 Metronome Trad 15m Average
Remember it being ok but very hard for the grade and not that well protected. Harder than it looks!

 
18 Falsetto - with Juergen Trad 15m Crap
Poorly protected, dodgy rock and not very good climbing.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall
17 Reunion Trad 25m Average
25 Debutantes and Centipedes Mixed trad 15m, 3 Very Good
I really like the top half, but not the bottom, and the crux is tweaky. Julian Saunders says he's had more business from the pocket on this route than any other hold in Australia. Beware.

 
26 Heimweh Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
Interesting climbing but wanders about. It'd be an ugly fall off the crux.

 
20 19 Excuse Me While I Belch Trad 17m Good
Surprisingly technical face to good crack. Good climbing.

 
21 20 Excuse me Lex Trad 32m Very Good
This is the best option of all the various lines.

 

Showing 1,001 - 1,100 out of 1,174 ascents.

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