Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | ||||||
12 11 |
★ Lizard Procrastination
![]() | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Varied and enjoyable. An easier variation for guiding is to go R around the corner on the second pitch, makes the whole route about 9.
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18 |
★ Riddled
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Despite appearances it's worthwhile! Not the greatest gear (or rock obviously) so don't make it your first 18.
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21 |
★★ English Ethics
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really like this one.
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21 |
★★ Cruel Consistency
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
I find the rock and gear to be poor on this, I wouldn't lead this again.
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21 |
Wrap-around Sunglasses
![]() | 15m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
24 |
★ Use Me and Abuse Me
![]() | 15m, 2 | Average | |||
The bolts flex alarmingly
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Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
23 |
★★ Beside Myself
![]() | 30m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Thought this was good but not two stars. Have done second pitch, remember it being loose feeling and not much gear but don't remember the climbing being great. Might be worth doing it again.
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23 |
★★ Dead Metaphor
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
21 |
★★ Skydiver
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb. Reachy at the top.
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25 |
★ Mixed Metaphor
![]() | 25m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Toproped as, like all of Gordy's bolts it seems, they are non stainless and already rusted to crap.
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22 |
★ Spasticus Autisticus (Spasticus Autisticus (Not Autisticus Spasticus))
![]() | 17m, 3 | Average | |||
I find this quite hard, and not that much fun. Others seem to like it.
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22 |
★★ Easy Does It
![]() | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky and pumpy at the top
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22 |
★★ Free Admission
![]() | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great! I really like this one.
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23 23 R |
★ Even More Moves
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
The only route I've ever done that it's handy to have 2 x #4RPs. Still a bit bold.
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19 19 R |
★ Coke Adds Life
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A little scary as the gear gets better the higher you go. Fairly tough.
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21 |
★ Smile
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
21? Edwin brushing the crux hold on lead before pulling the move is stylistically still one of the most impressive ascents I've seen.
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Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
23 |
★ Purple Denotes Bruising
![]() | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
This is the only route I can think of that I don't think should have been rebolted. The bolts were so obviously rubbish from the day they were put in that it made it quite atmospheric - a bolted death route. Now it's not really worth doing, as the climbing is just average.
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22 |
Maternity Wear
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
Not worth a star. Unremarkable rock and climbing
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23 23 R |
★ Kookenhagen
![]() | 20m, 1 | Average | |||
Not worth a star. There is gear to protect you before the bolt but the rock is pretty questionable. Climbing isn't that special.
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18 |
★★ King Rat
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
One star. Amazingly steep,but the rock feels dubious.
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22 |
★★ Glory Rodent
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fabulous steep jamming. Wonderful.
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23 23 R |
Luxury Item
![]() | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Not that great. RPs at the start, it's a bit bold but the climbing and rock are not that great.
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Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
15 |
★ Scylla
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Tough!
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18 |
★★ I'm A Little Asteroid
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I think these routes are good, but not really two stars.
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18 |
★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
21 |
★★ Feel It Closing In
![]() | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Really quite tricky
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Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Bum Rocks | ||||||
22 |
Fingersmith
![]() | 16m, 2 | Average | |||
Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | ||||||
24 |
★★ Hunger
![]() | 20m, 1 | Average | |||
I thought it was awful - harsh rock and ugly climbing - but I see Steve's post saying it was great. May be worth revisiting. Anchor was crap 20 years ago.
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Wed 8th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area White Mice Walls | ||||||
18 |
Thighs and Quivers
![]() | 20m | Crap | |||
Absolute rubbish
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Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area White Mice Walls | ||||||
20 |
★ Bermuda Triangle
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Good, fairly tough but hardly worth the walk. The other routes look rubbish.
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Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area The Pimple | ||||||
21 |
★ Squeeze Me Gently
![]() | 10m | ||||
Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
16 |
★ Castration
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
16 |
The Martyr
![]() | 11m | Don't Bother | |||
24 |
★ Petro-Fy
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Yes would be a very dangerous lead.
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21 |
★ Petronius
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
A really hard lead. Short but difficult to place the gear.
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14 |
★ Nero
![]() | 13m | ★ Good | |||
5 |
Spasticus
![]() | 10m | Average | |||
Down soloed on sight as the descent... I didn't know it was a climb.
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21 |
The Bolt
![]() | 13m, 1 | Average | |||
18 |
★★ The Rack
![]() | 13m | ★ Good | |||
A bit slimy. Good tho.
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20 |
★★ Christian Crack
![]() | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Borderline 21. A remarkable lead by a pregnant Anne Pauglik in about 1977.
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22 |
★ Blasphemy
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
I like this one.
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17 16 |
★ Crucifixion
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Hard and insecure! Gear is a bit odd too. Take care.
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26 |
Fitzroy Street
![]() | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
The 21 version
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Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble | ||||||
20 22 |
★ Pinpricks Of Blood
![]() | 10m | ||||
18 |
★ Thimble
![]() | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty hard for 17... hard for 18 even! A worthwhile shorty.
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Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | ||||||
26 |
★★ Letting Go
![]() | 15m, 1 | ||||
28 |
★ Slime Time
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Maybe 3 days? Quite good, and not particularly slimy. One slippery hold. Reachy though - there's a move at the start that is about 23 for me and looks 32 for Dave Jones.
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20 |
★ Popeye
![]() | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
All feels loose -not fun really
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20 |
★ The Wizard of Id
![]() | 10m | Average | |||
L at top to chains
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21 |
★ Oogie Boogie
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
hard and gnarly
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21 19 |
★ Sausage Of The Century
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
fun and nice
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Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | ||||||
22 |
★ Problematic
![]() | 10m | Average | |||
Don't really remember this
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22 |
★ A New Toy
![]() | 15m, 1 | Average | |||
24 |
★ Look Sharp
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
OK, a hard crank then insecure.
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26 |
★★ Hit the Deck
![]() | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting and varied, good but not great.
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21 20 |
★★★ Little Thor
![]() | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really good, hard for 20 and a bit greasy now. Take care placing your gear so it doesn't unzip.Gear is good, crux is above gear.
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16 16 R |
★★ Marmot's Mall
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing, a little greasy now but protection is OK.
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19 19 R |
★ Slip Knot
![]() | 12m | Average | |||
23 |
★★ Sagittarian
![]() | 12m, 1 | Average | |||
Start is pretty horrible, but finish past the bolt is nice.
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20 |
★ Brit Milah
![]() | 12m, 2 | Average | |||
Okay but not worth a star.
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21 |
★ The Ferrets Are Coming
![]() | 12m | Don't Bother | |||
Greasy and not great climbing.
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Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
18 |
Almost Completely Worthless
![]() | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
Almost completely worthless.
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17 |
★ Cruxless Knickers
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
Placing the gear on the crux is harder than the climbing.
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15 |
★★ Necrophilliac
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A good one to learn to jam on, as there are not many face holds to escape onto!
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19 |
★★ Telemachus
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The start is great, the top wanders around and the rock quality drops off. I did the finish once, now I just lower off the ring at half height.
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24 |
Mixed Blessing
![]() | 50m, 4 | Average | |||
Looks better than it is. The bolts are practically unclippable.
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11 |
★★★ Agamemnon
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing! Varied, exposed, exciting.
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15 |
★ Smooth Journey
![]() | 44m | Average | |||
22 |
★★ Collision Course
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard 22. Powerful crux and varied climbing but not that sustained.
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26 |
★★ Golden Gaytime
![]() | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good but not two stars. One or no stars
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26 25 |
★ Gay Olympics
![]() | 20m, 3 | Average | |||
Thin and very hard.
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23 |
Crows in the Snow
![]() | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
Poor gear, rock, and climbing. I have no idea why it gets a star.
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Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
10 |
★ Clytemnaestra Buttress
![]() | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Definitely better than it looks.
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17 |
★★ lphigenia
![]() | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing but the rock quality drops off at the top. Nice pillar to finish on though.
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13 |
★★★ Muldoon
![]() | 42m | ★ Good | |||
Not that great! Greasy, awkward start. Good steep finish but seems way overrated.
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Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
25 |
Evading Infra-Red
![]() | 35m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
Very thin hard start. Worthless.
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17 |
★★ Surface To Air
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I think this is great climbing, much better than Muldoon. Start is fairly hard and not that well protected if 17 is your limit.
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13 |
★★ Hell For Leather
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 21 |
★ Blind Profit
![]() | 30m, 2 | Average | |||
Original is too contrived to even work out where you're supposed to go. Step R at the first bolt, back left and then enjoy the fun top roof.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
20 |
Tiresias
![]() | 38m | Average | |||
Scrappy climbing then a good roof up high. It is much easier to climb the roof than protect it! There is gear there if you can hang out to place it.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
22 22 R |
★★ Plimsoll Line
![]() | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Really not that great, and quite scary now that the pins have fallen out.
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24 23 |
★★★ Orestes
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing but not great rock! I seem to be alone in finding this 24 - it's sustained, steep and the traverse is taxing to protect well. Several people have hurt themselves falling off it.
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25 |
★★★ Have A Good Flight
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great sustained climbing, a little sharp but stays dry unless rain has been heavy. A good one to fall off as it's a good clean fall. Second shot.
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27 29 |
★★ Jet Lag
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
I did the easy start (HAGF), which makes it maybe 27. Good technical climbing. 2 days. On the top wall I remember lunging for a jug, my feet came off and Gareth took in thinking I was coming off - but I held the jug and then had to hold nearly being pulled off. Just squeaked through.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Cassandra Area | ||||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing but greasy rock.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | ||||||
18 |
★★ Gilt Edged
![]() | 40m | Average | |||
I remember it being super greasy. Good, but not classic.
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29 28 |
★★★ Cobwebs
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route. Classic Arapiles hard route, slopey and slippery and sustained. 6 days, including falling off slapping the last jug...
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24 |
★★ Astral Plane
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Good but not two stars as I recall.
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24 |
★ Entangled
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Remarkably worthwhile as a second pitch to Astral Plane. Thin crux past old bolt.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress | ||||||
22 |
★ Pwocol Hawum
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly ok
|
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18 |
★ Wascal
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Tricky and surprisingly worthwhile
|
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16 15 |
★ ScarIet Sage
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Harder and steeper than it looks
|
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17 |
★ Mexican Madness
![]() | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
22 21 |
★ Metronome
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
Remember it being ok but very hard for the grade and not that well protected. Harder than it looks!
|
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18 |
Falsetto
![]() | 15m | Crap | |||
Poorly protected, dodgy rock and not very good climbing.
|
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
17 |
★ Reunion
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
25 |
★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really like the top half, but not the bottom, and the crux is tweaky. Julian Saunders says he's had more business from the pocket on this route than any other hold in Australia. Beware.
|
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26 |
★ Heimweh
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting climbing but wanders about. It'd be an ugly fall off the crux.
|
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20 19 |
★ Excuse Me While I Belch
![]() | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly technical face to good crack. Good climbing.
|
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21 20 |
★★ Excuse me Lex
![]() | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is the best option of all the various lines.
|