Ascents in Oceania as trad by JAndrews

Letting a friend lead this time

With Sam L. First 3 pitches of Orpheus, then last 2 pitches of Black Orpheus.

Great to shake off the cobwebs after a long break from climbing. Got a little crazy when some bloke decided to try to rig a top rope for his son above us. They inadvertently kicked some large rocks off and a toaster sized rock landed about 4 meters away while we were preparing to climb. No warning shout, just a loud rumble that had us diving into the cliff base. After the rocks stopped, I went up and had a chat, to this guy’s credit he immediately saw that what he was doing was wrong and packed up to go. I advised him to try KP or the Glass House Mountains and get some helmets. I suggested that he try Andromeda, but in hindsight I should have suggested Tinbeerwah. I bet this happens a lot at Frog, I think with some calm advice most people can be convinced that it is not a good idea. Maybe some signage??

Figgered it was a good idea to start easy after months of not climbing.

We climbed it as per the book, but it seems to be different in The Crag. Probably better to follow route described in the The Crag. The step bush walk/climb out to the right is not recommended.

Guided my friend Paul up to the summit and down again

lived up to its name: "awkward alley"

Only a Flash because I abseiled down to the start. Not sure it really helped though. Excellent climb, found good gear all the way. Climbed with Chris N. Worthy of the 3 stars. Mason (a local guide) left a rope he found to safe guard the climb down to the anchors from the summit. Found 2 or 3 good torque nut placements.

My number 4 friend snuggled in nicely behind the pillar, but I also clipped the steel rod holding the pillar to the wall! I don't know why there are two warning symbols on the topo. Maybe this was a note before the pillar was fixed to the wall?

Blabbermouth VS start. Thought we would see how high we could go before it was too hot. Got to the top of pitch 3 and decided to head down before we fried. Still a great climb.

Could not find any good gear within the first 3 m and took a ground fall.

Just could not get through the thruching part at the start. My petite partner had no troubles on top rope, but she did not think the climb was in her top 5 at FB.

A bit of a mission to find, but worth it. Good gear, no chain at the top, best to walk off.

I've onsighted this before, but today I was having a little trouble on the crux off the large platform, fell 4 times. Good thing is you can place a decent cam or hex from the platform, step right into the crack, but have some air beneath you if you fall. Really good climb.

Fun climb, followed my partner yesterday but had to have a go myself.

A bit of fun at the end of the day.

Had a go on top rope but could not get passed the crux. Maybe next time.

This is the second time I have led this and I can say I am pretty sure that if this was anywhere else it would be a 14 to 16. Best bit is the second chock stone.

Listed as trad but more accurately it is a mixed route. Lots of FH. All belays are bolted but the ledges are small or they are semi hanging belays. Grades are accurate. P3 was my favorite. Did the VS start. Pitch 7 is only a grade 10 but is a little scary without anywhere to place gear. Deserves the two stars. You can abseil back down the route or climb up to the top of the caves routes and abseil down that way. Easy to bail from the top of any pitch.