Routes in World for selected grade

Left hand route off the 5th access tree. Mostly very moderate but with quite a tricky crux.

Start left of the cave (as for Dramp). Up the face.

Sit start matched on low rail.

Start 2m L of Thunder Crack. Up to strenno corner (2 FHs), then R onto ledge shared with TC. Up past FH, traverse L to crack and up it, then L and up face past FH.

Climb up flake system to where it blanks out. Big moves get you to a slopey ledge. Strenuous, delicate moves up sloping blocks, followed by a difficult mantel get you to the anchors where you can finally relax.

A great tufa line with a tough corner and arête system. Brownish rock and smooth footholds.

Easy to find; it’s the biggest roof on the mountain. Much less intimidating than it looks from below. Start 6m L of Dontworry.com at the tree. Prepare yourself for some adventure-sport climbing! Take the time to get the rigging right for this one or you won’t be able to clip the anchor due to drag. Doable with a single rope if you use LOTS of long slings. Easy ramble to the roof. Punch the juggy roof, turn the lip and if you’ve done everything right you’ll be able to pull rope for the anchor clip Impossible to clean from the anchor, so back-jump the roof and lower-off. Rebolted Dec 2013.

A long and rather easy intro on big holds, a first thin crux to a rest, some traversing moves and several long reaches/ dynos. Most seem to agree on 7a+ morpho.

Sit start and up right on slopers to finish at break.

Classic technical thin wall climbing. Was once quite runout and dangerous - but this has been tamed (with permission from FA). Start at the left end of the raised ledge. Belaying from the ground might be an idea to reduce the fall factor.

From undercling stay left of 'Battle of the Shirts'.

Start: Sit

Harder than first impressions suggest. Stand start on the right two-finger pocket and a bad sloper, then launch to the well chalked sidepull, then battle to an exciting finish.

The first move is much easier if you assist the launch with a foot on the ground (but the bouldering police won't allow that).

Classic hairline splitter crack, with a mix of crack and technical face climbing. Visible on your left as you head down the main Pierces Pass walking track. You can access the top rap-anchors for Grasshopper wall via this route: Grasshopper Wall Top Approach GPS Tracklog. Bring a full rack from micro sizes to #3 Cam, with extra small-medium wires (and a set of larger RPs). Start directly below the main crack. 80m rope gets you to the ground.

1. 8m (18) - Short, dirty corner and face to ledge with 2 ringbolts. Harder than you want it to be.

2. 32m (25) - Low-angle splitter crack of varying sizes. Climb to the little rooflet with rings out left. Skip them and continue into the next section past the rooflet and wall above. Bring lots of wires on this pitch (including the small ones).

Sit start.

The right side of the steep wall. Up face/slab past 2 bolts to slopey moves to get onto head wall.

Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay.

The second pitch was climbed at 27 by moving into Brown Madonna at 2/3 height. Nowadays rarely done as Pleasant Screams Direct is a significantly better option.

Originally called 'Fingering Your Date For Blood'. Link up of 'Dr Strike' into 'Circus Street'. A 19-move power-enduro problem at the grade.

Start: As for 'Dr Strike'. Climb to hole, then keep traversing left via a dropdown move onto the 'Circus Street' jug and onwards.

Stand start up the cool pockets with a HARD committing mantle.

15m R in central section of wall. Monster traverse - traverses about 15m R through a 45 degree overhung wall. A tribute to a very talented 12yo Italian climber on the day of his passing. 12 FH’s. Permadraws. Very chossy until the 2nd draw.

Starts immediatly left of SD, and shares its DBB.

Stand start to the left of the crack/runnel feature, with the RH in a shallow pocket and the LH in a good slot. Move up the blunt arête/slab with slopey feet and hands, and balancy yet athletic movement. Avoids all of the holds to the right of the crack, including the blocky pedestal at the start and footholds.

Not quite a sit start but close. Up the left side of the rounded arete on crimps.

Start: Sit

Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.

Phillip Booth

The ultimate face-climbing testpiece up an improbably blank wall. Consider bringing a #0.5 or #0.75 for the runout at mid-height.

A real hip popper! Start behind old bench and move up the big pockets to the right. Follow longish sloping ledge, smearing and/or heal hooking like the best of them. Use gaping hole to finish with both hands on the jugging ledge of Dump Divers Dyno and ELAP.

Super Reachy with solid power required on the last hold! A must try!

Oliver Rickford Kieran Pates

An extension to Gravel Pit, keep climbing as to top out on A Mystery Unravel It, just before the lip travers right finish on the big jug

Beautiful line. An easier first half leads up to an open chimney with spaced but good pockets and a thin technical crux. Save some energy for the finish.

注意安全，挂上第三挂片之前都有可能到地。

Sit start from big hueco/mega pocket, move left and up, top out.

The best rock at the The Gold Mine? Up the left hand side of the wall on small perfect little holds. Thin, sustained and techo!

start next to the big block. past 1 bolt, then a difficult move to gain the second, take care clipping. Continue up some nice moves to top.

Extension to Fairy Dust. From anchor move up and L through steep roof to CW anchor.

One of the best in the gorge. An incipient crack on the left offers good protection.

Start as for The Warm Up, head onto the high flake and finish up via crimps as per Bogan (the independent finish between The Warm Up and Power Up finishes).

Sit start.

Some big pockets, still pumpy though and a tricky finale.

Sit start up incut arete, then left under tree then straight up.

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

An impressive overhang at the top of the vertical pillar. Bouldery crux!

2 pitches. An easy first pitch, and a lovely hard pitch hidden up on the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres left of the mini-totem pole pillar.

1. 20m (17) Easy, peasy. A mix of FHs and ringbolts. You can lower off the big staple at the top of the wall, or much better, climb up to the ledge and do the second pitch. A rap anchor is 5m to the L, looking in, at the top of P2 of Hells Bells.

2. 22m (25) Steep with a low crux, then nice moves to the top.

Stand start from arete in corner then climb up and top out (block on right is out).

Classic guidebook-cover worthy wall climb with a hell of a lot of air below you on the runouts.

To rap-in - locate 2 rings a few metres further down the hill (east) from the Disco Non Stop Party arete. Fix a rope to rings and rap 50m down the route, taking the R fork (facing in, the L fork is for The Obvious Elbow (of Aristocrat Arthur Decanter), bouncing to stay in contact with the wall (and pre-placing a few draws to direct the rope) to a small ledge and semi-hanging 2 x bolt belay. You can also climb up to this ledge via the first couple of bolts of The Obvious Elbow (accessed via Thomson & Thomson Traverse) if you don't have a rap rope, or if you prefer to climb this as a 5m longer pitch from the most cushy ledge (and are sensible with rollers/extenders).

13 bolts, with an optional 0.3/0.4 cam in a slot near the top (to mitigate an exciting runout).

Original grade was 7a+. Upgraded to 7b after a hold broke off. Shares the start with 'Caveman', then left straight over the bulge. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

A fun variant. Start as Little Buddha but cross rh to slot left out to the vineyard arete then cross over rh & top out as for The Vineyard. Mauricio Chino

Second route just left of the big tree.2nd pitch is 5.11d , rarely done because of massive beehive nest 3/4of way up.

Stunning line up the best piece of real estate at the crag. Follow the seam past an awkwardly placed retrobolt, before joining Jacobite higher up.

Originally graded 24, however several key holds have now broken off and there seems to be a consensus that it's at least a grade harder. DO NOT AID THIS ROUTE ON CAMS OR CAM HOOKS. The flake is fragile and prone to breaking when loaded by these devices.

Squeezed just right of 'Viking in Heat'. In Wee's update. All titanium bolts.

Steep climbing out the Left hand side of the roof. Up the wall to the base of the roof then follow the huge flake system out left to finish on the same anchors as Unnamed.

One of the best looking lines at the crag, and a great climb! The overhung buttress on right edge of Fernville, with prominent pockets in the middle. Stick-clip first bolt.

The way to do it. Climb via both the Direct Start (25) past 2 bolts, and the Direct Finish (25) past another bolt. DRB.

Redpoint Video by 循风

Stop at the ring on Continuous Play

Starts left of Nitro Express. From the river bed skirt up and along a ledge to near its end. All bolts and for Bungonia very clean with little loose rock.

1. 30m 23 Follow line of bolts on the right to an overlap at half height with a heinous mantle (crux) then trend up and left to DBB next to bushes. Missing first bolt but one can stick clip the second bolt from the ledge.

2. 20m 21 Follow bolts up and left across slab then up and through the short steep wall to ledge and DBB.

   Move to anchors on the left of the ledge

3. 60m 22 up left of first bolt then follow bolts right then up a long slab and an orange tufa 10m below the overhang. At last bolt traverse right to the anchor at the DBB on ledge.

4. 30m 25 the Money pitch. Climb up the slab till the start of the steep rock, 3 bolts. Climb the juggy run out to the first bolt on the left. Follow very steep ground to mantle the tufa blob!. Jump off the tufa and follow the bolts up right then left to the ledge above. Long draws can help with rope drag (The tufas to the left is a different alt finish)

5. 20m 23 Climb the steep chimney and wall to a ledge. Head right and up the gap between the trees to a DBB. Could use a bolt to climb between ledges but is only grade 10.

   Head right along this ledge to a DRBB 10m.

6. 60m 22 follow the bolts to face crux moves and then wander to the top on easier terrain and DBB. Rope stretcher.

Pumpy overhang to crux at little roof.

Technical pocket face climbing, is as good as it gets starting from the large ledge. Accessed via climbing to the right of Sun Strike.

Sit start at the back R corner of the low scoop, on a L side pull and R pinch pocket. Pull the good black pockets through the horizontal roof to finish matched on the lip. Used to finish as for "Dribble" in project form, feel free to try but it is much harder.

Phillip Booth

Climb to Chevy's last bolt, go left and finish up GA.

Batman start up TWOAF then at the 4th or 5th bolt go L and up through the roof to anchors on Flesh and Blood

The classic of this wall begins at the top of Sundae Slab DBB. From the ‘Cream ledge’ climb the line of hangers just right of the large black & orange streak up the centre of IceCream wall. Great sustained climbing on solid, marbly rock. The last boulder problem is cryptic and of very high quality- so leave some gas in the tank!

Start right of TT initials. Fun 24 to first anchor (25m) or continue past drilled holds to the top for a hard 25.

Hang start matched on low rail, up through punchy, thuggy moves to sloping top out.

Start at back of cave and head out through roof on LHS to finish up.

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go!

Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

Climb Gravel Pit, then climb directly left into Jabbas jug. Much better movement than Star Jug Destroyer.

Climb QR then instead of heading right and up the corner, go straight up through the roof and overlap. Pumpy moves lead to a glorious throw to the top. A harder, better and more sustained finish to QR.

Super classic sit-start to “Bear Huggies” and very pleasant for the grade. A Harvey's Marbles must do!

An ugly duckling that climbs well. Far left route of the crag sharing the start and first bolt with Room with a View. Only has a single bolt as a lower-off. Don't try and cheat the last move - Mikl has made sure that's not possible!

Route on left side of cave taking line through right of prow to single u lower off on head wall. Punchy photogenic last moves in steep terrain! Best to back jump one or two bolts for cleaning as rope can get stuck in groove when pulling.

Huge crack underneath main lookout, requires standard rack with the addition of up to ten #3 camalots.

1. (13) Chossy corner and crack leading left to well signposted belay ledge. \

2. (18) Small corner to crack then veering left to mantle loose shale ledge. Ring bolt belay.

3. (25) Left over the void and up to get established in crack (crux) then up. Never quite gets dry. Bring lots (9) of number 3 cams. Up to belay with two carrots though horizontal above ideal.

4. (22) Up then leave crack to bridge left past 3 good carrot bolts (2014) and original rotten aid bashies beside them to top. If you've freed pitch 3, pitch 4 feels just as hard!

Walk off 15mtrs then scramble up 1 meter ledge and follow trail meandering up then right a little under last cliff to lookout. Well done

Pretty snappy.

Start: It used to bridge up a pathetic tree ... which is now gone. A big stick clip is probably the best way to sample this original version of the route (but the newer direct start described above makes it a lot better so why not just do that). Apparently the bridging section can be climbed at very bouldery 27 or so. Yet another alternative is to boulder in from the right on pockets (grade 25 and easier if you are tall and don\'t mind broken ankles).

#standstart #topout #crimps #slopers

Start on lower crimps then move into Wolfgang, finishing up it.

Pumper, follows obvious right leaning ramp. Now starts on the ground and stops at lower-offs at 35m. Needs 16 draws and 2 more for the anchor, and a 70m rope. The good hold for the hard move down low snapped in June 2013, decide for yourself whether this does anything to the grade.

Up and right along ramp then up.

Sit start from furthest right in the dark low corner, (or from the nearest dry holds if it is wet), follow the weakness which passes the big juggy plate and around the bulge into the grotty dark corner above the stream.

Split personalities. Technical slab climbing then outrageous endurance roof climbing. Starts in the middle of Monty's Cave below right facing corner and small tree stump. Up to shale band, then tricky pull into corner. Traverse rightwards across technical slab (grade 22) to right side of massive steepness. Power through initial bulge on pockets (some real, one fake) then left and out through series of rooflets all the way to the lip of the massive cave. Crank the lip and up hidden headwall above to lone U-bolt. Back jump roue to clean. Long slings on all bolts reduces rope drag considerably. Be a little careful with the honeycomb flake at the lip of the cave.

The leftwards diagonal. Not well protected at the start, but a great little route.

It can also be done starting up Deep Throat.

Start 2m right of Risky Business. Up and slightly right of 1st u-bolt, then trend up & left to join Risky Business @ 3rd Draw. 5 U-Bolts & 2 U-Bolts for Loweroffs