Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was wet in the first crux section, so had to avoid that to the right.
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5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Driest route of the day - only the start (easy) was wet.
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5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Was wet in places, but mostly places that didn't matter.
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5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | Average | |||
The usual, bringing someone up so they can leave.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I am coming to appreciate Giggles more and more for how solid and sustained the climbing is at the grade.
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Like many of the climbs at Lower Cliff, a bit stiff for the grade.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Lone star | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Chas percé | 4 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Mysophobie | 6 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Gros orteil | 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Esprit de famille | 4 | ||||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) North End | ||||||
5.9 Easy | ★★ Open Season | 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10b Easy | ★★ La Madrina | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Had a foot slip, and thought I was going for a ride, but my hand was wedged into a crack, so it caught me. I think I may have wrenched my left shoulder a bit, though.
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5.10b | ★★ Locutus | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprised at how easily this went. Really good friction today with the cooler temperature must have helped.
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5.9 | ★★ Warbird | 12m | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Make it So | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of wet on it, made it noticeably harder than 5.8
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Come From Away | 38m, 22 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | Average | |||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Weir | ||||||
Mur de l'ouest Ionescu | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Ace Rimmer | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Peril Inoxydable | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Carnage d'Acier | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Spindrift Wall | ||||||
5.3 | ★ Ground Zero | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Swift Current | ||||||
Tiger Wall | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Astro Kitty | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Red Rock: Pet Wall | ||||||
The Playground | ||||||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Peanut Butter and Jelly (PBJ) | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5.6 ~5.7 | ★ In the Pursuit (of fire) | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Awkward Overhangs | 11m, 7 | Average | |||
Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Spindrift Wall | ||||||
5.3 | ★ Bolt Line 3 | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Eagle's Nest | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Migizi Wazoson | 70m, 27 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I'm not sure why P3 & P4 are split as separate pitches, it doesn't really make sense. Not long enough, no rope drag issues, and pretty consistent at the 5.4-5.5 grade. And P2 isn't 5.9 unless you screw up your route finding. The (nominal) final pitch is not 5.6, somewhere in the 5.4 to 5.5 range. (Compare to P1 of Perspective, just to the right, a tough, but fair, 5.6.)
I'd call this three pitches: 5.9, 5.8, 5.5. Still, a lovely bolted outing. And, as I had already climbing P1, and Switftly Tilting Planet, so went up the crack to the right for P1. Pretty good climbing, and looks like good gear, should probably be a climb. |
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Rhovanion | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Fractus | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur École | ||||||
5.6 ~5.7 | ★ L’amuse-gueule | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Start is 5.7 climbing, rest is 5.5 -- I guess that averages out to 5.6, right?
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5.5 ~5.7 | ★ SAXE o’fun | 17m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Surprise sur prises | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
My favourite at school wall. It starts like all the rest on the wall - crux getting to bolt 1, maybe 2, then easing off. But it is longer, and has a sting in the tail, with the steep finish.
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Le fou | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Lollypops - Pitch 1 | 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 28th May 2023 - Mont Rigaud | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Brûle pour Ciel | 14m | Average | |||
To climb at grade, often you're left of the bolt line, on the ramp. Direct is probably more like 5.10.
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5.8 | ★★ 40 Foot Smurf | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.5 ~5.6 | ★ Pine Sol | 11m, 4 | Average | |||
Sun 28th May 2023 - Mont Rigaud | ||||||
Bob's Wall | ||||||
5.6 ~5.7 | ★★ Shish-Kebob | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Plumb Bob | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Hangars on first and second bolt, and on the right-side bolt of the anchor are loose/spinning.
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5.8 | ★★ This Bob's For You | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Would be nice to have one more bolt at the start, otherwise, still a classic.
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5.8 | Anchovie Caper | 6 | ★ Good | |||
Was wet in places, so finished on the last two bolts of the 10b to the right. Might actually be a more interesting variation than the regular finish, but wants a couple long draws to prevent rope drag.
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5.7 | Half Nelson | Don't Bother | ||||
Still very sharp.
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5.6 | ★ Rainbow | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Steep for a 5.6
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Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | ||||||
5.8 Hard | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | ||||||
5.7 |
★ Tipping Point P1
1
5.7
| 11 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Bolt Line | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Would be nice to have a bolt to the right for the start.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
The Parking Lot Wall | ||||||
5.6 ~5.7 | ★ Easily Amused | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
5.7 | ★ Glory Jean's | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Rocher du Capitaine | ||||||
Les voies | ||||||
5.5 | ★★ Cueva de Blue | 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Nubes | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.9 | ★★ Kate and David's Excellent Adventure | 32m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.8 | ★★ Tits 'n' Ass | 32m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Shake Your Groove Thing | 28m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing Pink Floyd Wall | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ (un)Comfortably Numb | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Stolen Land | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor P1
1
5.9
20m
| 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Fractus | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.7 ~5.6 | ★ Karma Points | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 25th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Wave | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Espantasuegra | 26m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 24th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Front Side Zapatista Wall | ||||||
5.10b |
★ Rock Hard Weekend
1
5.9
2
5.9
3
5.10b
4
5.9
Linked with P5.
5
5.9
| 140m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 23rd Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Virgin Canyon Upper Virgin Wall | ||||||
5.8 Easy | ★★ Gracias Mi Amor | 34m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Chicaboom Nights | 27m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 ~5.8 | ★★ Mr Patacca | 29m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 20th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Canon de los Lobos Los Lobos Main Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★ El Cachorro | 26m, 7 | Average | |||
Sat 18th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Central Scrutinizer | ||||||
5.8 Hard | ★★ Upside Down Cracker | 35m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Harder than most 5.8s in the area, especially the newer ones.
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Sat 18th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Jungle Wall | ||||||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Déjà vu | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 R Easy | ★★ Suculenta | 30m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
There was no over-use of bolts on this one.
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Fri 17th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Jungle Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ El Tigre | 46m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climbing, but not nearly the 5.9 not Madden suggests it might be. Reasonably bolted by EPC standards.
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Fri 17th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Kelso's Way | 37m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Caguama Queen | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 15th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Canon de los Lobos Los Lobos Main Wall | ||||||
5.10a Hard | ★★ Howlin' Wolf | 34m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is solid climbing at the 5.9 grade, more sustained steep than usual for this grade at EPC, but very good climbing. And, it will feel harder if you're not comfortable with a couple hand or foot jams.
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5.9 |
★★ The Blacksmith
1
5.9
2
5.7
| 12 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★ The Anvil | 23m, 8 | Average | |||
Tue 14th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Virgin Canyon Cat Wall | ||||||
5.10a Easy | ★★ 31 Foot Smurf | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Might be 5.9+, might be easy 5.10a.
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5.9 | ★★ Spin Doctor | 23m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Skairdy Kat | 29m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Getting polished
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5.8 Hard | ★★ The Cat's Meow | 24m, 11 | Average | |||
Getting polished.
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Mon 13th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Wonder Wall | ||||||
5.9 ~5.9 |
★★ Evil Shenanigans P1
1
5.9
| 73m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 |
★★ Ramsey's Shenanigans
2
5.8
3
5.7
| 75m | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ One Dead Teardrop | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Mexican Squeeze Job | 26m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Red Headed Step Child | 27m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 12th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Central Scrutinizer | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Sabrosa | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★ Slip of the Tongue | 26m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 12th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Jungle Wall | ||||||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ CDC & J | 34m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 |
★★ Timon y Pumba P1
1
5.9
| 50m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Las Lienas | 34m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ La Chicky Baby | 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur École | ||||||
5.8 | ★ The Dawn | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 28th May 2022 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.9 5.8 | ★★ Rock Hugger | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
My goal for the day -- got the red-point.
Still a bit torn on the grade. It is somewhere in the 5.8+/5.9- range. |