Ascents as Clean as trad by Bovist

Much greenery especially at the last few meters.

Easy slab in the beginning, diagonal from right to left, onto a small vegetated ledge at about 8-10m height (bolt). Some loose rock around there, had to be careful.

Then I dug out a fantastic crack-dihedral, that was covered in a thick layer of earth. Although Christoph Rauch already cleaned a bit when he lead that part. After another 8-10m up was a small ledge (bolt), where Christoph Rauch was waiting for me. Very vegetated and dirty. Cleaned a lot of dirt there, that covered the crack below us again in dirt. Needs 1-2 more ascents until its fully clean.

Now a traverse to the right and into some alpine loose rock and -who would have thought- more dirt. Then up a bit (bolt) onto the next belay on top of a big block of unknown stability (bolt). From there the rock quality becomes very good.

Up a bit (old ring) and then begins the slightly overhanging traverse further to the right for about 8m (two bolts). Fantastic holds there and although rather exposed, it is not intimidating. After that some last easy 10m up to the abseil anchor, unusual for the Frankenjura with two bolts instead of one. The 80m rope was enough to get to the ground in one abseil.

Didn't do the part that would have been VI (right at the start, the first 3 meters), because I didn't have my crack gloves and the crack was just too painful to jam. So I grabbed the knot sling instead.

Stayed as deep as possible in the chimney. Not sure if that was harder, but definitely more exhausting.

Easy, but interesting few meters at the diagonal crack to the left onto a ledge with a small tree. Then on good holds over a small bulge into perfect easy slab. Medium-small step-over to the summit, where the book is located.

Nice route. We climbed down again, because the queue at the abseil-ring took too long.

Start in der Hochscharte. Da wir den vermutlich richtigen Einstig nicht gesehen haben, sind wir aus einer kleinen Höhle durch ein Loch zum eigentlichen Weg geklettert.

Early morning climb before the rain starts.

Very nice and interesting climb.

Geneigte und gestufte Wand zum Gipfel.

Über Absätze und geneigte Passagen im Uhrzeigersinn um den Turm zum Gipfel.

Erst über schöne Wandkletterei auf den großen Pfeiler. Anschließend nach links leicht abwärts queren und im markanten Doppelriss nach oben. Über zwei spannende Kaminwülste zum Gipfel.

Sadly the route does not go through the hole, but it is nice and interesting nevertheless.

Very loose rock at the lower half.

Better rock quality than the other route we did today. Good climbing with interesting moves.

First pitch is adventurous. Very exhausting chimney at the second pitch. Hustle yourself 20cm up and sink back a few cm again. Repeat. Good tour.

Nice and easy, but also very interesting chimney.

Very nice and surprisingly easy chimney between two towers. It could be a bit wide for very small people < 160cm. At the top I made a big step over to the other summit and back, so I can claim that I was on both towers.

Nice, enjoyable chimney.

Exceptionally narrow chimney. Still a bit technical moves, but moderate hard work to get to the top. Super fun.

Made it on the second try. At the first go I fell at the first move, because a foothold broke off unexpectedly. We picked up so many glass shards at the top and on the ground...

Very interesting and fantastic climbing. Nice dark rock.

The upper part is quite nice climbing, but the lower half of the route is very overgrown. It is hard to decide if there are footholds hidden underneath the moss or not. Sometimes there is one and sometimes it is just a thick block of moss which crumbles away if you try to step on it.

I didn't find the solution for the grade. Did something way harder again at one point.

Nice and easy to the plateau, even when wet.

Finally! When I passed the point where Christoph Rauch bailed yesterday, I could fully understand why. The climbing could actually be nice without the thick moss and dirt over every hold and foothold.

Easy and not very spectacular climbing. Climbed with my backpack to avoid having to get back to the start after rappeling down. Nice view over the Trubachtal from the summit.