Routes in Sunshine Coast for selected grade

Up crack, tend right around bulge then left to anchors. Watch for rope rub on the way down. Shares anchors with Rail Mc Railface

Up bulge to gain small ledge and clip first bolt, up fun features to anchors.

Sit start on the left hand side of Diamond traverse up and right to top out.

Start as for Bio-orgasmic Plasma Gun, traverse left at the ledge, then up the off-width. Top out and tree belay.

Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL.

Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave.

Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of OLD.

6m right of Via the Rainbow. Climb pockets to ledge. Up face to slopey exit. Poor pro. More of a solo. Anchor off gumtree.

The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb.

15m L of L. Up to L of crack.

Up the orange streak 2m L of G.

Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection.

Long (pointless?) traverse.

Start: Starts off the block at the start of The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill.

Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second.

Start just about 1.5m left of 'New Day Rising' in orange corner. Head straight up eventually ending at the anchor of 'New Day Rising'.

The gear is actually quite good, it takes various bits of gear including slings, nuts, hexes and small cams (to 0.5 C4), a set of tri-cams from black to red is very useful for the pockets. The gear at the start is a little finicky to find but it's there.

3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux). Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires. Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out. Classic! Doable on RBs only, with a decent runout in the middle; make sure you're solid at the grade if doing this.

The hand/fist crack in the corner just R of the small tree growing at half height. Top belay off solid gum trees

After the first bolt try to stay to the right of bolt line.

The Rock

Memory

Thought

Angel

My Love

Rune

Rune - Sit start

Rune

Family

Air

Dragon

Rune

Rune

to find Truth

A boulder with bolts and jugs with a lower off on cliff face

Sit start on side pull and crimp, balance your way up the arete.

Sit start as per Scrambled Eggs, then traverse left avoiding the block below, top out at highest point.

Stand start on lower part of the face then climb up on juggy sidepulls to topout.

Start on the left most nubbin with excellent low feet. Straight up avoiding the flake on the left. Works well no-handed.

Sit start matched on crimp jug. Straight up using the tree knob sloper to mantle

Climb left side of slab.

Climb line to R of Brachiosaurus

stand start both hands on undercling. reach up to ledge then mantle to the top.

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

Up the slab passing ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).

Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just R of the access track. Marked with a small, scratched 'H'.

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 21m 9 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge to the start of rubbishy gully. Up through the gully or out onto the left hand bounding rib (much cleaner) to large tree belay (?). From here, the exit of Carborundum Chimney is joined, and scrambling to the right eventually leads to the Caves Route.

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 32m 13 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge. Ascend diagonally up & to the right for 4m on the leftside of crevice/crack, cross over the crack, then ascend on small holds & ledges immediately to the right of the crack (to right of overhang). Straight up trending right. Up front of nose until level with large Ironwood tree (?) in gully to the left of nose.

From here, exit up & right, across vegetated ledges above Carborundum Chimney to access the Caves Route below Trojan.

An easy but badly protected outing. A great adventure for the discerning choss jockey. The FA was completed (just!) in two pitches (running 1-2 and 3-4 together). Note that this was not at all comfortably done on a 70m rope - if you're going to do this as two pitches I would only recommend doing so on an 80m rope.

1. (4) 20m - First pitch as for Black Orpheus

2. (14R) 50m - Instead of mounting the short wall as for Black Orpheus, head right just under the steep wall and trend right and slightly up over occasionally horrific rock (only real landmark is a grassy tree ledge you traverse about 5m above) with a healthy dose of airiness to ledge at start of white and black streaked slab and up this for 15m to tree belay on left.

3. (10) 40m - Up right easily to tree (sling) then straight up over rotting rock to mount bulge, then trending up and right to big tree belay just below obvious chimney

4. (4) 30m - Up and right into chimney and finish in cave 4 as per Prometheus

Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain.

Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD”

Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK”

Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip.

A traverse that deserves a description. First used by FA party of North-east buttress to escape the route before the aided crux section.

1. 30m (14) crux. From the "Crazy Crack" gully climb just above the DBB up the left wall (tree belay or DBB), avoiding the nasty loose block on the arete. Up and around the buttress with marginal protection and suspicious holds in a very airy and unstable scenario. Downclimb into a small vegetated gully with shrub (must not fall) and keep traversing left, on better rock, passing a bolt of the Ross Miller Route and reaching a second small gully. Break the traverse and belay from a small tree to avoid further rope drag.

2. 35m (13) Continue traversing left past 2 bomber placements (medium to small cam) and reach the broken pillar on top of cave 4 enjoying the massive exposure and unbelievable views. Place gear to direct rope and avoid running it through the death blocks. Carefully downclimb the lower part of pitch 1 of Prometheus 2 to the sign into the cave (tricky).

A bold wall first climbed as a solo. Start 2m L of 'Armageddon'. Up slab and over small roof then traverse R to 'Armageddon' anchor. Marginal protection but nice rock.

The first known technical route on the south west corner of Tibro. This corner is bisected by a scrubby ramp that traverses diagonally up from right to left, starting under a vertical section of the cliff on the south face proper. Below this ramp, a buttress comprised of relatively clean and smooth slabs can be found, and this route takes a direct line up those slabs to end on the scrubby ramp. To find the start of the route, take the usual access track to Slider gully and bushbash around the base of the mountain. Alternatively, it is fairly easy to follow the Trachyte Circuit around the mountain until a low point on the trail with an abundance of ferns. The buttress can vaguely be seen through the shrubbery, so make a beeline through moderately dense bush to the base of the wall.

1. Up an easy, low-angled slab with abundant lichen but no gear. Tree belay.

2. Up steeper, cleaner terrain with quite decent protection. Belay from a large horizontal crack.

3. Terrain continues to steepen and gear becomes poor and sparse when it matters most. A small overlap is surmounted near the top of the pitch, after which some loose rock must be navigated to reach the ramp above.

Descent: One can scramble down to the right, although it is quite vegetated. A faint path also leads up and left, eventually connecting with the Tourist Track and a short descent to ground level.

Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH".

Climb straight up right of the large loose block, then tend slightly left above this, to the DBB shared with SD. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014.

Start 3m left of bad move, up to bulge (med cam) in crack below bulge, then move up and slightly right with care to lose looking block (ground-fall) keep climbing place a nut in slot, then up to crack (small cam) and finish on jugs.

Start 2m right of 'Roof Climb'. Climb straight to the top staying within the band of rock covered in white lichen.

Marked 'LT'. Start up the nice hand crack but this soon turns in a wide off-width. At the widest point, squeeze through the crack and chimney up to ledge. Rap off or continue up one of the crack lines above.

Marked 'UVC'. Sunscreen optional. The obvious angled off-width on the right side of the leaning pillar. Good pro and sustained climbing all the way to a tree belay.

Another lovely little sport route. A false overhang gives it a steep feel. FA’d on gravy day. Start: about 2m right of PC. Up passing 4 bolts, then trend slightly left to anchors.

Nice thin moves past highish RB. Continue past 2nd RB to DBB.

Start 5m R of 'Fool's Errand'. Be wary of the friable rock.

Straight up on crimpers to 1st bolt, crux to 2nd bolt, then easier to 3rd bolt. DBB on slab above.

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of So Close. Shares the Just Enough anchors on the ledge to the right.

Start: about 275m right of hiker's track. Possibly still marked with "GI" after 55 years?

Climb up to 2 small ledges, then delicate moves up to a ledge at the base of a corner. Up using potholes, then thin wall and layback flake lead to easy slab & tree belay (still there 55yrs later?)

Start: 3m Left of Gambier I - possibly still initialled "GII" after 55yrs?

Up 3-4m to base of crack, delicate moves up to potholes, follow crack up 6m to easy slab & tree belay (still there, 55yrs later?).

10m down R of Summer Daze, up the crackline (small gear), past some small saplings, passing 2 carrots, continue up the slab, passing another BR, move R & up, passing another 3 BR's to TB.

Start at flake left of 'Extreme Close Up'. Fairly straight up passing four ring bolts and optional gear (nuts, small hexes) for runouts in easy sections. Use the new anchor, but the old anchor has been left as requested by Wayne for a little bit of history - this is one of the anchors that hadn't completely rusted away!

1. 25m (14) Also bolted on lead. Carrots. Same first bolt as 'Megga Happy Ending' then head left to hidden bolt, sling horn and place gear (small cams and wires) under overhang, pass this obstacle to good (medium) cam and on to chains. 2 bolts + trad.

2. -m (-) project...

Start: 10m left of Proven Guilty, below the small tree, next to the projecting knob of rock.

1. 35m 14 - (As of 2023, the crack is chock full of ferns) Take the knobby face up to the tree, continue up on thin, but good holds to a welcome BR, about 10m above the tree, on the face out left, continue up to belay at the 35m mark, with good gear.

2. 25m 12 - Up, following the sparse gear on the face, until this peters out, then head right to the PG anchors & rap.

(NB: A piton runner was replaced by a carrot on p1)

Start: 1.5m left of Columbian Necktie, or 5-6m left of Short Circuit, at the right facing ramp, leading up to the crack. Bold climbing at the grade: big run-outs, esp. on p2.

1. 40m 14 - Up the easy ramp, to gain the crack system proper, up this to a good stance below some bushes & trad belay.

2. 40m - Follow a seamless overlap to a peg, small, sparse gear to the roof above, through this on good holds on the RHS, then squeak up to DBB & change pants.

The first ascent was done just after the Port Arthur Massacre - and the subsequent gun buypack scheme, thus the name. It was also Neil's first ever use of a handrill - the tedium of bashing and twisting certainly controlled the bolt gun!

Starts 12m left of Guillotine (or 13-14m left of the big white gum).

1. 40m 14. Up the wall on big pockets till you arrive at a slab, up this delicately to a natural belay ledge with rap chains.

2. 48m 14. Traverse out right to a weakness in the rock, about 2m from belay ledge, then up through the overhang to face climbing above. Up this passing one FH, then continue up the slab for another 15m to a DBB.

3. 30m 10. Traverse out left along ledge to a slab, then straight across the slab to the prominent corner & tree belay at base of this.

4. 35m 12. Climb up to a big corner, & up this on good rock & trad protection, then a scree slope to belay tree. From this belay it is possible to escape the route via 150m scramble across right to the hiker's track, and down this.

5. 50m 2. Scramble up to the big red cave and the start of the next pitch.

6. 30m 10. Up the chimney on scant protection and dubious rock to a tree belay.

From here, continue up the ridge to the summit & down the hiker's track. To gain the ridge, a fun option is step onto the dome from the belay ledge and climb the crack/flake which has some nice moves with good pro for about 20m, to tree belay in the forest.

Variant finish to pitch 6 (if the chimney is slimy wet):

6b. 30m 16. Up chimney to a good hex placement, then out right onto a small ledge & up the face on good holds, but no pro, to tree belay.

Pitch 1 & 2 anchors replaced September 2021

35m left of Gun Control (Head on up the slope, past Gun Control, past the overhang, down the slope, to the prominent sports slab) The pocketed line, just right of Super Size Me (carroted route), behind a sapling. Up the slab, on large pockets & good gear, till it eases, then trend left, to a block & belay stance, about 10m below the big roofs. Escape: down-climb, trending slightly left, to chains on Super Size Me.

Start: Right of Just Juice, below the crack/slab. Tricky move up to a jug, then gear up to a stance & BR, past this, with good gear following, then take the easiest route to the top.

Start: Left of Just Juice, in the depression with small knobs. Featured climbing up to a jug, then up to tree, continue on thin gear to first belay on Just Juice. Can be climbed in 2 pitches by belaying at the tree.

Stand start. Make your way up the left side of the arete.

Left of the bonsai boulder face on nice incuts

Right of the bonsai boulder face

A short easy trad route underneath Yoink. Start at small tree and climb through the orange rock.

Start on the L side of Pond Ledge where there is a DBB. A couple of face moves to get established in the chimney. Climb this past 2 bolts, then continue up slab to base of a cave and DBB.

An exposed climb, high on the mountain. To access this climb you have to abseil into it.

Death! Start about 50m right of Prehistoric Beetle Junk. Follow the line of least resistance to ledges, where you'll find a a tree and chockstone belay.

Natural corner system between Swordsman and Neo Nasi Goreng. Bit of a doddle until the pleasurable body jamming at the end.

Rap/belay from ring #10.

Bolted, 8 bolts. Rap/belay from ring #10.

Trad, Cnr crack on left side of 30m pillar, right of Where's The Bolt. Wires, Hexes, S-M slcd's, smaller tricams may be handy. Last 15 metres is unprotectable slab. Rap off tree at the top of the pillar if you don't fancy the runout (I know I would)