Routes in Australia for selected grade

Climb Spoonman and step left at the anchor. Keep going up to link with some good rock. Finish at Camp III.

Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade.

Climb Spoonman and after the crux, at the large jug rest, continue tending leftwards up 5 new bolts, staying off the route to the left. The route finishes on a single hanger with a ring just below joining Spoonmonster.

Note: I opted to not climb to the Spoonmonster anchor as the rock quality is poor, sharp and dusty and adds nothing to the route in terms of difficultly or quality.

Starts up Spoonman. Once you hit the arete head left below Ironman to join Gladiator.

Links the start of Knifey Spooney into the finish of Wholly Calamity. Some great moves down low to an easier finish than Spoonman. Take a long draw for the bolt before Spoonman crux, and another long draw for the bolt above Screaming's horns.

Traverse left across the blankness in the middle of screamings crux. Finishes up Spoonman. Fun.

Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

Starts up 'Eight Minute Abs' to first bolt then traverses left on flakes, finishes up 'Separation Anxiety'

The left trending line that starts left of WOC. The first half dozen moves make up the crux and are extremely bouldery requiring some strong core work to a huge bucket. From there it's a 45 degree wall with mostly big moves to big holds and a tricky finish to finish near the top of Demolition Man. Make sure you mantle the ledge at the anchor to get the tick! Anchor has been placed too low.

Linkup - Climbs Eight Minute Abs past the anchor into Call of Duty, via a 60cm sling on the first COD bolt

Start as Eight Minutes Abs. Join into Weapon of Choice and finish it.

Climb Bloody Weapon until anchor, then veer left and finish up COD.

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy ending on the upper arête (intended finish which was graded at 28). The right variant finish from the base of the arête has become the new ‘normal’ way graded at 27.

Climb Weapon of Choice and make your way into Renewable energy.

Climb CWAHW but keep on moving left onto COD. Finish up this. The longest route at Coolum.

Start on Caught by the Fuzz, keep going through the roof and finish directly up Armed to the Teeth. Multiple cruxes

Climb Still on a buzz turn first roof and follow the right hand seam, 3 FH. Finish on the perch above the lip of the cave.

Start at the True North boulder problem, climb this for its first bolt and then head left via some cool pinches to the 2nd bolt of Assistance. Go through some crazy techy bouldering that keeps getting harder. Eventually re-enter Full Metal's traverse at its last bolt and finish at its anchor. Also can be done direct clipping Frey’s Link last FH.

Ultimate into grazed.

Climb past full metal anchor to Crazy Horny's. Adds 3 metres of exciting hard climbing to full metal. Also has been done from the true north direct start, a hard 29 by Sam B.

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip. Amazing bouldery climbing without many tricks. Great for getting you strong!

Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.

Spoonman across to Iron Man's anchor, continue up past 3 FH and start slinging like a cowboy to arrive at camp 3's belay. 5 slings and a small cam will suffice.

Climb BFTB for six FH's then step L and up past another five FH's to lower off in corner. Interesting and technical climbing, the only downside being portions of questionable rock. All the critical holds are solid, but please, no cleaning beyond a brush.

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

Begin in L side of cave, around the arete and up face to anchors of NT. Uber sustained from the get go until the break.

The direct on Kill Bill. Start R of NT at the crack. 3 bolts to join KB at the end of the traverse. The climb goes just R of bolt 3 (the patina prevented bolts from being placed further R). Sustained pinches, underclings, sidepulls. Tough 2nd clip, but for full value avoid stickclipping it.

Up the steepest part of the left side of the cave. Start on the chalked holds at the right end of the steep scoop. This route was born as a 26, then grew to 27, now probably 28 or harder after multiple breaks up high. You bolt choss that’s what you get. Could probably use a little glue and love if anyone is motivated.

Link up. Begin up Absinthe to the 4th bolt, then follow the steep underbelly right across SS and GASS to finish up Screaming Rage. If instead, at the end, you keep going R and finish up the corner feature (Quiet Rage), it's Getting Buck Right, at low-end 26.

Climb Absinthe to halfway then diagonal naturally right on blobs to join Struggle Snuggle. More pumpy and interesting than the direct and pushes the gnarly SS into the next grade.

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.

The direct version of sat night palsy joining into you can only hide. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=swrkEbAm2Ps

Crimpy and sustained. At the 5th bolt it makes sense to move R into Nitro for a few moves before punching back L. The back wall is off limits until you're at the anchors. Some folks say 27. Log a personal grade and let the algorithm decide.

Start up Semtex. After the deadpoint move dance left crossing Nitro and finishing up Sat Night.

Sit start 3m left of Beta Blocka start under small rooflet on protruding good fin and crimps around it. Punch straight up to jug the traverse right along crack line. Line goes up diagonally right to ok left gaston crimp and then face crimps of Beta Blocka and straight to jug to finish.

Edmund

Stand start using small holds on left hand side of the boulder. Ascend in glorious style. Boulders to the left are out.

Has been climbed in the past. Grade needs confirmation.

The current hardest route at Serpent. Stickclip first two bolts from chossy ledge. Hard pull onto wall, with continual bouldering which doesn't relent until you clip the anchor. Hard the entire way. Originally an old Aaron Jones project, until he broke the crux hold and deemed it too hard for the time. Many years have passed and it has finally seen a first ascent.

Starts about 3 metres to the right of Minotaur. 1 bolt leads to steep wall. Compressive, powerful climbing follows. Joins into TG after 3 bolts and finishes up it. Sustained and powerful climbing.

Some dodgy rock on this one, but offers some very tiny holds for you to pit your tips against. Start just right of Medusa at the slabby crack. Stickclip first bolt from chossy ledge. Hard pull straight away to chossy jugs above. Continue on thin holds (crux) culminating with some pumpy wall climbing to anchor above on ledge. The choss just below of the third bolt needs some maintenance (polyester glue smared around the parts that are crumbling).

Easily up slab to high first FH. Carefully clip second FH zigging L then zagging back R to jug at the base of the business (FH). Unlock the first crux to stance with mono pocket and out-of-reach final FH. Now lean into the second crux before a long runout to the anchor.

Stand start on pinches with high right heel. A few compression moves leads to a welcome jug. Top out from there

Sit start from the same undercling as River Journey. Hard moves right to gain the crimps in the middle of the short face.

Sit start at the starting sloping ledge of Yabba dabba doo. Move right to the starting crimps of Boxing clever, and throw under the arch to the big pocket. Traverse right and up to finish. Strenuous strong fingers on very steep territory.

Low start at the big holds left of the overhang. Traverse right on crimps to get under the prow then up with open hands and grunts. A boulder of two halves.

Sit on the shield and figure out how to gain the arete and undercling at 50 degrees. Proper classic boulder. Grade to be confirmed.

Stand start. Left hand on the jug undercling, right on the chungus gaston. up you go!

Good underclings but not much for feet, somehow pull on and then throw to a decent jug and then easy after that.

Sit start far right with two hands in the underclings. Powerful move left past a jug to the thin crimps just right of the arete. A big move finishes above the hanging arete.

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.

Full traverse of the Graffiti Cave. Start at the left bulge traversing right, following the fan of rock to punch out of the cave following the V6.

Sit start on the sloping rail, throw to the top and mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Start as per Roof Ninja, after reaching the jug over the lip traverse right through slimper to good edges topping out right of the start of Like a Samurai. Only the large chock stone with the starting holds is in.

Kieran Pates

Same as for Like a Samurai, but continue under the lip to top out at Katana.

Sit start on sloping crimps. Crux throw right, then traverse along positve ledges to match triangular edge then up. Perhaps soft on the grade. No chockstones are in. Nor is the jug directly above the start holds. Using them this goes as a V5.

Sit start as per Pinch Me Baby with Rh on good side pull, Lh on low pinch, stay low and traverse left on slopers, hit the crimp, throw to lip and mantle.

Raph

Sit start LH on decent sidepull, RH high 3 finger sidepull, crank on to spank the lip and mantle.

Start on the opposing crimps, up past side pull to high flake. Harder for shorties.

http://vimeo.com/27677576

Linkup. Very, very nice. Up 'Bufo Marinus' to the bolt. Traverse left across 'Moonlight Fantasia' and place some protection, then over to the 1st bolt of 'Be A Robot For Jesus'. Do BARFJ's crux, then clip the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Traverse left across to the 3rd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear' and do its crux. Again traverse left across blankish wall to 'Honed And Buffed' and clip the last 2 bolts of this route to anchors.

One of the most least contrived problems on the whole cliff.

From Playschool all the way down to More Bolts Than Meters.

M8, M23

One of the hardest boulder problems on the cliff.

True sit start (bum on the floor!) under the wave on the bottom bulge - with the crimpy lump LH and sloper to its right, move up with strenuous moves to gain the sloping lip, wrestle over the top out.

Difficult somewhat height dependent

Nick Foulds

start left hand on arete with left toe hook, trend rightwards up through jug. tricky mantle

Start in the deep back left on crimp rail and join on the second hold of made to stray

Same sit start as I.O.T.I.H , lurching out of the cave on the right side. At the contrived lip encounter, traverse hard left along the whole lip of the cave on slopes and jugs to finish up the far left side mantling out. Watch the terrifying fall on the cut down tree stump.

Sit start with hands on the lowest holds either side of arete and feet pressed on block underneath. Stay on arete line for glory.

Stand start goes at about V2

Start matched in obvious crack on left side of the boulder, bust straight up to top out on jugs

Note - There is a low flake to the right that could be used as a start, but it doesn’t add to the difficulty or aesthetic of the line, and could easily rip off with too much use

Stand start balancing on big footer left side. A hard series of crimpy and technical slabbing up the bomber orange wall finishing on the juggy mid way break. Don’t use your feet properly and say goodbye. It is to go with out saying all holds on the V4 right and the easy crack left are out.

Probably the only possible line on the boulder. start in the big undercling and jump out right to arete, cruxy mantle

The straight up the guts steepest line on the boulder, start on the slab and head straight up through the obvious crimp rails.

From the crux jug of Baby Bonus, instead of campusing up and out left, traverse right for 2 metres through slopey jugs and crimps for an extremely demanding finish!

Jimmy Blackhall

“Baby Bonus Long”- for the novelty of one side of the “Prowl wall” to the other. Start far left, on the furthest lowest jugs around “Ezee Peezy”. Start racing across the whole wall into “Baby Bonus VF” and finish as it’s VF version, traversing the slopey lip to finish further right.

Stand start on left hand edge and right hand crimp. Big first move into right gaston, then follow good edges to first obvious top out. Mantle is tricky so be careful. Unsure on First Ascensionist, please get in touch with more info!

Start as for the v7 finishing up the mantle of the v4 trending below the lip on good holds moving back down before heading up to the mantle.

Start lower on the small footholds used in the V3, big move out to the shelf.

Start matched on the small blocky hold, figure out how to do the large move to the middle crimp and mantle. Avoid wall on the left.

Sit start. Right hand on slopey lichen rain just above overhang. Left hand on crimp 30cn diagonally up and left. Feet in break. Move straight up on crimps then mantle. Do not traverse left into jug of Ant Man. Beware that 4th hold is flexing. Likely needs to break then send with what remains. Grade likely to end up around V5 or V6, but would be higher or lower depending on how things play out.

Improbably blunt arete. Start on good R ledge and undercling up using L edges and high slopers. Harder for short persons.

Start as for unleash the dancer and finish up the fat mat traverse. A nice more sustained variant with a bit of a sting in its tail.

Start as for unleash the dancer, but instead of heading left get a high heel hook and blast straight up.

Start under roof on undercling. Long throw with right to jug at lip. Aim for high left pocket or straight up.

Sit start then up the crimpy edges.

As per The elusive white rhinobut don't use the large sidepull. Note that sidepull is excluded because there used to be a dead tree here when the project was originally set. Note the original name for this project is likely either the Nanook Project or the Hellhound project.

Climb up the start of Y Front, trending right through the crack and into slopey crimps. When you reach the slopey dish dyno for jug blocked against roof, roughly 1 and a half meters from the finishing jug of Crack V4.

Start as The Crack but carry on up obvious line to finish. Technical and very sloppered crimps define this face climb. Unrepeated and very mysterious...

Start up And Better sit start, traversing left without stepping in the cave into Tree Fall. This boulder combines the three most difficult lines of the wall.

Start on the arete then head right to finish as for Antiquity

Sit-start under the wave feature, on the RH side of the arete. Energy draining moves on pockets and slopes, lead up into the V5’s committing top out. The must do of Slab Land.

27/4/24 - The entire first hold came off, making the start much harder.

Sit-start on slopers at the far left lip. Throw the left heel on and commence a series of powerful moves on slopers to link into the start of the Chalking Dead.

Climb The Joker, at the finishing ledge stay low to continue two-thirds of the way along the Alfred crimp seam, before blasting up to the shark-tooth-shaped jug-ledge (~1m to the right of the Bane jug), then continue right to match the finish jug-ledge of Caped Crusader.

Start one hand on jug-crimp-flake below the lip at the lowest point of the cave, and the other on the face-sloper, throwing up and right ( toward the other end of the cave) to gain a decent ledge. Traverse along the reverse of Alfred to the centre and make the throw to the Bane jug.

Start further in the cave and move out to the arete and finish up OHT

Start as for Pendeltag, exiting as for Aiokiasof. The longest line at the underground.

Links Supa Chief into Orient Express. Climb Supa Chief to the starting holds of Orient Express, then climb that line to top out as for Lazarus. Harder than the normal finish of Supa Chief, and pumpy!

Sit-Start as for Polar Express, climbing through the overhang directly into a prominent undercling before gaining an enormous jug directly over the small boulder in the middle of the cave and topping out. The pocket nearly directly above the rail, and just below the lip, is out.

Sit start, as low as possible on sidepulls - moving up the arete about 200 metres before Superhard wall in a small cluster of easier problems. There is two variants of this line. RH side finish or straight up finish- both are hard and both are graded V6-V8. It depends on what side of the arete you climb!

Start in huge hueco then head right into seam and finish straight up.