Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Sit down, grab the big rail, walk up the boulder. If you just use the slopers it may even be V2.

Easy lines on the slanted left wall. Some choss still but most of the obvious lines have been done..

Well featured low wall with warm up options. Sit starts etc.

Well featured boulder with a lot of warm ups all over - various sitters etc probably ranging from VB-V2ish

Sit start with both hands and feet on the arete, lay back your way up to top corner of arete then trend left not using the top of the boulder until you pass the ‘disconnected’ bloc then top out to finish.

Climb up the crack

Climb up the jugs

Traverse the crag from left to right. Difficulty depends entirely on how far you go, and the height at which you climb.

Starts approximately 10m R of UWF on far R of detached block, just L of the chimney. Faintly marked but hard to see the paint. Possibly no pro and look like it fully blanks out on the top section.

Small line up obvious features on the left side of the downside of Crèche boulder.

How do I delete this route???

A fun 100m long traverse in an incredible location.

Start at the entry of the obvious deep ravine, climb 2m up the RHS arete and keep traversing right, keeping 1 to 2.5m high all the way to the manky end of the wall, going through some interesting overhanging moves.

The rock is crumbling in places on the surface so look for big holds.

The first climb to be put up at the crag. Start: Under roof on right of the wall. Climb up to cave then out left side. Tend right and up to stance and continue up long slab to anchors. Can go direct to first bolt.

Starting beneath the first bolt of NWO, pull off a few bouldery moves to the first bolt. Direct start for NWO.

Rap in from tree a few metres to the right of LGL to belay off medium cams or just sit in tree.

Up not too steep hand / fist crack back to the top. No much of a warmup for LGL but might get some blood going and test your tape job if using it ....

A proud line striking upwards seven metres above the ground and over a roughly 10 metre, wretched fall with a good chance of a roll down the hill afterward. There are no bolts on this climb, and the first ascensionist requests you keep it that way. The lower crack will take some natural protection, but peters out at around the four metre mark. You may be able to fiddle something in above the shaky flake. There's a shaky flake, by the way. One crux- the little rooflet. Don't go left or right at the rooflet. As it's the pussy variant, you can use the boulder in front to avoid the beginning boulder problem. Pussy. Easy enough to set up a top-rope. Top out.

As you keep walking past the bouldering wall, you'll encounter the 10m high Pyramid Pinnacle on your L. This climb (that is actually marked with what looks like an upside down "U") starts behind this pinnacle. Up the face to some gear in the diagonal crack and then up from there possibly. 20+m?

A nice easy warmup

straight up

Same Boulder as the topo above

From a standing start, grab two big jugs on the arete and get your feet onto the sloping blocks underneath. Swing a lft foot into the little orange incut notch the the left, stand up on that and head on up.

From a standing start, get your hands high up on the right edge of the arete and your toes into the crack running along the bottom of the rock. Shuffle your hands up the edge until you reach the jug, get your left foot onto the crimp hold from 'Problem 9' then swing your right foot up onto the ledge and convince the rest of your body to follow it. Continue to the top.

Sit start, then up and stay to the right using the easy holds.

Starts 4m R of Fembot. Faintly marked but extremely hard to see the paint. Slab route up nice-looking crystally rock. May have some gear a few metres off the deck, but then nothing until right up the top. Uncertain finish & descent (Maybe a walk off L and then a tree rap).

Grade: VM

The right hand side of the face with the sandy base. V0 for the sit start else VB.

A small wall with an easy warm up climb.

Easy stuff on the wall behind ‘Bites Back’.

Sit start with obvious horn jug that looks dodgy but somehow hasn't broken yet!

Up the finger crack, past pod, to tree belay.

Starts up 'Megs's Misfortune' until just before first bolt of 'Buckingham'. Tend diagonally up and join 'Buckingham' for second bolt and rest of climb. Take cams to protect crack and slings to extend.

Up the corner. Good.

The big overhang.

Starts 3m R of detached block which forms a chimney. Faintly marked but hard to see the paint. Ascends pockets (protectable) and then an unprotected slab. Looks like it finishes on a grassy ledge below the overhang - uncertain finish & descent.

Ascend an obvious gully for eight pitches, which broadens out to join the snowfields left of the summit.

Aid up crack to roof, left to ledge, left to rock and up into the choss!

Start: Thin left leading seam in small roof on the left side of the 'Waterfall' cave.

The MAJOR line 8m left of 'Spectre'. Incomplete aid scarefest (of choss) and not recommended. Full aid rack required including hooks, pitons - anything goes.

1. 15m (14 M1) Scramble up first few metres to reach overhung thin crack. Up and over this to wide crack which turns into a protectionless chossy easy corner. Arrive at sloping ledge and single bolt belay. If you are sane rap off here with skull intact.

2. 17m (10 M6) OK - you asked for it. Incomplete. Out left and up overhung wall on poor quality rock, trying to make anything hold your weight. After 8m of sketchy rubbish a thin crack appears which quickly disintegrates as quickly as it appeared. A real crack arrives courtesy of a large loose block, which moves alarmingly when gear is put behind it. Neil ripped four pieces in a row here, placed a bolt and rapped off vowing never to return. The loose block should be treated with extreme caution. It effectively blocks further progress unless another aid bolt is placed on the blank wall to the side.

Rick White in RURP September1972:

1-5) Up D2 to top terrace, walk left & belay on left ledge.

6-8) Climb down gully ca.20m (rope assist) to a traverse line. Traverse left, then up grassy corner to below crux of BB. Climb down crack (rope assist), traverse left & up to "AC" ledge.

9-11) Peg up to AC bivie bolts, lower down ca.25m & pendulum across to Phaedra bivi bolts, 8m below roof. Peg up past bolts to roof & then through roof to more bolts. Traverse left (2 pegs), lower or fall off a tied off knife blade, pendulum & tension with difficulty to bush(?). Up crack to magnificent perched belay.

12-13) Up diagonally left, through blocks. keep traversing: up short wall, then easy finish.

Ian Thomas: "Why wouldn't you want to complete the first girdle of a big exposed face, spend the night in a free hanging hammock, flail around on an 30m pendulum and scare yourself silly with hard aid?"

\' predominantly mechanical route taking a thin crack to its natural conclusion\' J. Ewbank

Start: The crack on the right corner of the corner. Start marked.

1. -m (14 M5) Free and aid on friable rock up to belay on shale ledge.

2. 30m (14 M5) Free to base of corner then on aid to roof. Around the roof and a few free moves to bolt anchor.

3. 50m (-) P 3 & 4. Aid then free to ledge and bolt, right along ledge and follow easiest route to the top.

Start: Center of wall at right corner right of black streak.

For a bit of an idea see the 2007 Calendar

Simon and Neil initially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

Start: In front of Light Box 10, a few metres left of OLBDNSWD. Locate thin crack. Aid up this on small to medium wires to below vegetated ledge. Mantel this (BR - probably gone) to rest. Up right past aid bolt to another mantle onto a small ledge below smooth headwall and BR (probably gone). Aid up the wall past a rusty old aid bolt (still there), then traverse directly left to chains on ST. Rap off. Warning - bolts may be very weak by now. (NB: I would suggest that the aid bolts & bolt runners are now long gone, cleaned off by BCC in many rock scaling events. As of 2022, one rusty BR remains high up on this route.)

Start 30m right of DC.

1. 27m Left hand crack to top of block. Traverse left to ledge.

2. 21m (14MA) Up crack to tree.

Start: Corner 12m right of TG.

1. 37m (14 M1) Corner to loose block.Aid roof.

2. 6m (14 M3) Aid crack then free to ledge.

3. 18m (14) Crack.

Start: Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

1. 25m (- M2) Two bolts off the deck to L-trending slab (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack.

2. 35m (- M4) Sustained aiding up the thin corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. Cam hooks are useful, but far from necessary. Take plenty of RPs and wires regardless.

3. 40m (- M4) Continue up the corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Move left to ledge with tree to belay.

4. 8m (10) This last bit to Big Grassy is best kept as a separate pitch to avoid ridiculous rope drag. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

5. 35m (- M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the L line after 20?m (R line is Ozy Direct), then up to DBB at start of amazing corner.

6. 30m (- M2) Up the corner. Belay off to the L.

7. 35m (- M3) Some awkward times lie ahead. Up through the dirty cracks and bulges. Finish at semi-hanging TBB.

8. 15m (- M2) Traverse L to ledge.

9. 20m (14) Chimneys. Have fun with the haul sack if you brought one.

10. 25m (10) More chimneys. You will be loving your pig even more by the end!

Start: Below cave.

RURP November 1969

May have been freed, but who knows? Start at the right corner of the buttressbelow a large corner leading to an overhang. Up the corner through two overhangs, then up a crack to a small ledge at 20m. Easy crack to the top.

Has some of this fallen down? Large amounts of fresh rockfall and mini landslide thwarted attempts to cross check this route with original description. Original description reads: Start at big yellow corner capped by roof on right of cliff.

1. 20m Free for 7m then aid crack . Right across wall on BRs then free to BB on ledge.

2. 22m (crux) Traverse slight right on pitons, up crack past flake to roof., traverse right to ledge. Wall to tree belay.

3. 10m Left to corner then up.

Corner 4m left of A.

1. 24m (14 M1) To roof, aid around lip and up.

2. 18m (- M3) Aid, then free up wall. Keep right. Poor rock!

1).Aid to roof,left then out to lip, onto wall, right to ledge. 2).Left, over bulges, right to blank corner, up, left at top then to scubby ledge. 'Gully' to right.

Start: Ar right end of Psyncave.

P1 (40m - M3): starting on ledge, move up chimney and then easy free moves up ramp. Up thin corner and either: (a) reach around arete to bolt and traverse via flake to crack on left, or (b) continue up corner to carrot bolt near arete and tension traverse to crack system. Up to belay at manky carrot and piton (supplement with good gear at level of piton).

P2 (40m - M2): Up crack and through roof. Follow crack line to a one person stance below a rooflet (2 new bolts and one carrot).

P3 (40m - M2): up to carrot and through roof. Follow crack until it peters out, switching to crack system on left, then back to the right towards the top of the pitch. Up awkwardly to ledge (a short fixed line from ledge belay may be present to help).

P4&5 (14). Easiest way to the top - "an excellent mountaineering challenge" i.e. can be wet and slimy. Alternatively a fixed line can be left from the top abseil station of the DotF descent - padding the edge with a rope protector is recommended.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

This climb may be lost to history

Starts level with and across the gully from the pine tree at the top of Shelob. Pitch 1, 15m: Climb the rib for 3m to a groove on the right. Climb the groove, step left at the top and climb up to a tree belay on the right. Pitch 2, 20m: Move left 2m to an in situ peg. With its aid gain the steep rib on the left. An extra sling used on a spike on the rib has since been eliminated. Climb the pleasant exposed rib more easily to a tree belay. Descend by abseil.

P1: Aid through same overhang as Nightingale, then move left for 7m under the big roof until a belay stance with a bolt and good wire. P2: Climb up and slightly right for 3m then move up and right on slab on top of the second overhang. Continue up groove on right and ledges to the top of Nightingale. Double bolt belay. P3: Climb out left to the rib and swing round onto slab. Climb the slab the slab to its highest point keeping to the cleanest rock. Double bolt belay. P4: Not generally climbed now but it is possible to climb further slabs up and right. Belay and descend from pine trees.

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil merely used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to the TAFE that used to reside along the top of this section of cliff.

Start: several metres left of large white landslide below, a BR. Up mank to ledge and BR. Up corner above past dodgy aid bolt and BR to below crack. Aid up this to ledge and BR. Scramble up dirt ledges to top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Tree to lip, aid right to bolts, free, then right to cave, wall to ledge and bollard, up to trees. 2). Right up wall. Take wires and slings.

Start: 10m right of CB. (tree growing to lip of roof?).

Peg left under roof to corner. Nut up this then free up blank wall. Finish up 'Callous Crack'.

Start: 2m right of 'Callous Crack'

Lost in the middle of massive amounts of choss. Starts to the L of the obvious orange wall up on the L side of the Gorge. Up the rotten rock of the overhang, then traverse R wards to the bird stained nice where 2 sloping overhangs meet. Over the short overhang on nuts (will go free) with the last moves up the sloping ledge free.

Start on NE Face at obvious weakness above 8 m of yellow overhang.

1. 9 m Line of bolts, then L to tree.

2. 36 m Scramble along ledge to rock.

3. 21 m Corner, overhang to bolt belay.

4. 21 m Up L.

5. 33 m Gully on L.

An old aid climb. Line of rusty carrots.

The other worthless peg crack.

"don't bother, the only aid climbs on the cliff and subsequent ascents will only leave scars" The first peg crack.

1. 25m 14 As for Magnetic Strands.

2. 17m 14M0 Flick a tape onto a high jug on the arete and use it to for aid to surrmount the overhang. Continue up the crack above to a ledge, traverse around the arete to belay.

Wall, aid through overhang, slab right to chossy ledge below overhang, right and up to big ledge. Take Care!

Start: 15m right of scramble route to the 100 Man Bivouac Ledge.

Climb beautifully featured flowstone arête trending left to final bulge and anchor.

this was originally explored ground up on fairly spaced but nearly adequate threads and other gear to the spacious ledge. A belay anchor is installed. Any future developers may use the belay ledge at the top as access to the roofs above, and feel free to add bolts for a proper lead.

From the Three Coconuts Pass, hike along the ridge towards Mouaroa. The ridgeline begins to steepen and becomes about a grade 6 climb up loose soil, rock, and small shrubs. There is a boulder problem (crux - 2 bolts) on decent rock just before the anchors (DRB).

Starts about 4m R of SAALB (about 5m up and R of the toe of the buttress) at the foot of the slab. Climb this past 8FHs tending a little R at the top to a DBB lower off at the guano stained block of MMH

Easy slab climb

Slab, some great and positive holds