Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Start at crack line two metres left of Ckinell, up crack, gradually veering left into second crack, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or head right to rap anchors.

ATTENTION: There can be a Bee Hive on this route, take care.

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

The crack.

Start: 3.5m right of CC.

Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.

Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

Sit start

The line just L of the arete.

Start on the black back wall of The 'Thimble' which faces 'Comic Strip Wall', 1m L of the arete.

Short corner then R and up.

Start 1m R of 'The Last In Line'.

Grunt your way up the offwidth crack on the wall around left from 'The Rack'.

LH crack in narrow buttress, then R to a pair of thin cracks.

Start beneath the roadside-face of the buttress.

Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done by Peter Lindorff.

Start just R of the descent chimney.

The bottomless corner.

Start 2m R of 'I've Got A Big Honker'.

first accent

Rotten crack.

Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle.

See if you can pick the theme running here?

Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner.

Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right.

Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal.

Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up.

Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam.

Start: Start 1m R of GM.

Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall.

Loose flake then lichen. Reachy.

Start: Start 1m R of F.

The thin corner.

Start: Start just R of arete.

Up then step L and follow the continuation.

Start: Start 2m R of SL.

An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams

Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork.

A little extension to Scylla. Up Scylla until the difficulties ease, then step left to follow the flakes (instead of finishing up Charybdis). More sustained than the original finish.

Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.

1. 15m (15) The R crack to the ledge.

2. 15m (14) The wide crack in the L-facing corner above the ledge.

As for C for 10m then R and up arete.

Start: Start as for C.

The start of this doesn't look too bad but the gully is woeful. Maybe would be better finishing up the arete on the left.

On a small grey wall 50m beyond Catcher to the R of the main gully. Up to a jug at 3m, 3m R of the block at the base of the wall. Arrange small wires, make a thin move and continue more easily.

Up middle of face.

Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway.

Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'.

An obvious, the word is used loosely, corner.

The same party wrote up another climb here : Rat 9m 16 Climb the bulge 4 metres left of the corner, up the wall, and finish up the right-facing black corner. Sounds like it might be the same as 'Ratatouille'.

The crack, moving R at overhang.

Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack.

Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave.

Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up.

Start right of Boo. Up wall to jugs. Continue up until wall blanks out, then take line of holds right across orange face to the arete. Up and right to Mesa chains.

Takes nice grey wall left of Boo. Chimney and bridge until jugs appear on the right (north) wall. Swing onto these, and direct up wall above.

Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor. Start 6m R of Reunion, R of orange cave.

Start: Start in the gully R of PW.

1. 20m (15) Chimney to the ledge.

2. 20m (15) 'Small' crack to slopey ledge, R then back L via spooky block.

A variant finish to 'Hell For Leather' which is more sustained and improves the original.

Start: Start as for Hell for Leather.

Overhang is a bit brutal but arete is nice. OK in one pitch with care with rope mgt on first, easy section. Start as for Clytemnaestra

1. 20m (16) As for Clytemnaestra Buttress until below the overhang. Now pull through the overhang at the deep crack just R of the arete. Belay at ledge just above.

2. 20m (14) Up the L edge of the buttress, with better moves and rock than on CB.

If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars. Start as for WoI then traverse the funky holes across the entire wall to the arete. Best to belay here due to drag. Finish easily up the front of buttress beside (or on) Clytemnestra Buttress, or move back R to the GG anchor.

Start as per Agamemnon, finish last 5m up Electra pinnacle staying on the Northern chimney face. Small pro. Descent off the back or Rap down Agamemnon bolts as Electra chain is an awkward downclimb.

...is another man's FA! Step across the block from the Necrophiliac anchor. Follow the dodgy rock across then up and over the overhang. Can belay using the Telemachus backup anchor bolt then rap from the Telemachus anchor.

Left curving crack with a few nice jams. Lower-offs (25m).

Start 15m R of Necrophiliac. The crack R of a bush.

The flakes.

Start: Start directly opposite CRaCM.

A link-up of the first part of Bandwagon into the finish of Passionate Tips.

Start on top of the Piccolo pipe and climb the middle of the wall on the D Major pipe. The start is a little bold but the rest of the route protects well. Finish at rap bolts.

Fairly ordinary. Start on the back of the Piccolo Pipe, about 5m L of Lemmington.

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

A few good moves up the front of the D Major buttress. Start at the lowest point of the buttress.

1. 30m (16) Up easily till face steepens, up face to crack in buttress.

2. 20m (16) Start up chimney just left of D Major then step left above roof to front of juggy buttress.

Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section. Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of D Major.

1. 25m (14) Sustained climbing up the thin cracks to the big cave.

2. 25m (16) Move towards the front of the buttress and climb a short, difficult corner. Continue easily.

Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots. Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.

1. 15m (15) Excellent finger layback crack on right wall of gully. Gear is excellent but pumped desperate leaders have run it out in the past and taken large falls.

2. 35m (15) Up the widening crack and left across the sickle into Holpyp. Up over the roof and carry on.

The central line up the Conifer Crack buttress is unfortunately not very sustained. Also it has a habit of dealing out broken ankles to leaders falling at the end of the crux. Start just right of Conifer Crack.

The left arete of the Didgeridoo buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off. Start as for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece.

A toprope route keeping just right of Horn Piece offers another option for a busy day. Rig from the Horn Piece bolts - long slings or cordalette. Could be lead-climbed but it is somewhat contrived and initial slab is unprotected - no bolt please. Start 2m right of Horn Piece just left of grotty crack. Slab to bushy crack. After crack follow Rhand side of arete. Pass small triangular overhang then move R and up to anchor.

Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of Conifer Crack. This looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from Horn Piece or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge.

As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe

1. 40' Move right up the ramp leading to the base of Toccata and about 15' to the left of Toccata, traverse left a few feet to a good ledge and bolt runner. Climb the shallow groove with difficulty to a resting place and a second bolt runner. Move out right and attain a standing position on top of the obvious square block on the smooth face on the right. Move back left to a good ledge and bolt belay a few feet above the last runner.

2. 100' Step four feet onto the arête and go up to beneath the overhangs. Move back right to join the original line and fix the first runner of the second pitch. Continue in the same line, via a narrow awkward chimney, to the top.

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.

1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off (45m) or walk up the gully to the top.

The rightmost of the twin cracks on the big block in front of Toccata. Walk off behind.

Lovely corner on the second pitch. Scramble up the gully right of Toccata under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for Yossarian but it doesn't add much value.

1. 13m (-) Climb up to Yossarian's first belay then move right and up to belay on the obvious block below the right side of the prominent roof. You could also do the direct start to Deflated which is just a few metres to the right.

2. 35m (15) Difficult move up to right side of roof (RPs essential) then continue up corner.

Essentially a nice variant finish to Sonatine, sharing that climb's crux. 35m abseil descent.

1. Start as for Yossarian or Sonatine or other approach to the first belay of Sonatine at the huge block.

2. 25m 16 Step off the block into a shallow orange groove (as for Sonatine, crux, RPs essential). Move into the righthand groove and follow it direct. (Sonatine is the corner on the left).

Over the nose

The arete that points towards the campground. Up to obvious orange groove, R at bulge, then up.

Climb is on the east face, facing the Pines. Starts easily to shallow cave at 6m. Leaving the cave, the gear is rather thin and at the grade.

Start below tooth-flake 3m right of Mark You've Changed.

Up right side of flake.

Good.

About 20m west of Mr. Blobby there is a gully with a short line on the left wall.

Up crack.

Pale waterstreak into thrutch crack.

Start on blocky ledge halfway up the left side of Brick Wall - i.e. off the top of the pinnacle just ledt of Squeakeasy.

Start as for Sue's Climb, take the flake into Pedro for a metre, then head L on the next steep blocky flake. Up wall and through bulge to join Pedro's finish. All reasonably well protected except the initial R leaning flake - take small wires.

A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.

Surprisingly not as good as the original. Start as for BP and go L 1m as for that route then straight up to join the finish of Jason.

Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof.

There are 3 short chimneys at the righthand end of the wall. This is the left one and is surprisingly awkward.

Strongly suspect that this is a repeat of Gobsmacking Dick which was written up in the Operation Leo Area and described as in a hanging gully above Jason. Despite the inaccuracy, I think they're the same.

This climb is up behind Golden Fleece Wall, starting up a gully of sorts directly behind the top of Dylan.

Chimney until the slab on the left wall is too far away then pull onto the right wall. Hand-crack to start, bulge, finger-crack and on to top.

Originally described as SSO RHV. Start as for The Stoat Steps Out. Up 3m traverse R, crossing Bunyip, for 5m and then up.

The crack then the arete.

Start: Start 2m L of D.

Rambo would've climbed 32 if he'd had HB's mo.

Start 2m L GC.

Crack, seam, ramp, wall.

Climb the corner.

Start: Start beneath the main L-facing corner.

Short orange wall, step L, up to ledge, step R and up.

Start: Start 15m L of GL at L rounded sickle incut, behind a small gum tree and 3m L of a scrappy gully.

The short flake with a bouldery start.

Start: Start on a small orange buttress L of TPtG.

The big L-facing flake.

Start: Start R of SS.

A pumpier partner to Sob Story and Tear Jerker.

Start as for SS and TJ.

From ledge where SS steepens (and TJ heads out R), fun and well protected climbing heads up diagonally L to crack on L wall.

The corner then L around the roof.

Start: Start in the alcove R of K.

The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.

Start: Start at the arete just R of F.

Cooner Spunnilingus?

Start: In the back of the gully is a crack on the right wall, up higher.

Up this, avoiding temptation to bridge back.

Wedged in the middle of Jeff's Buttocks. The easy looking right-hand crack.

Up the line and exit left.

Start: Start just L of the highest part of the wall.

The line up the L side of the buttress.

Start: Start in the gully on the LH side of the buttress.

The first route in the world to have its own web-site!

Start: In the hanging gully at the back of the All 'Alone in the Dead Zone' (Shattered) buttress is an obvious corner. This might be the same gully as 'Dead End', but then again maybe it's not.

Up the corner, finishing slightly left

As for Z then up L onto flake and up.

Start: Start as for Z.

Start just right of 'Charity' and after 1m join Great Pissing Ledges.

Much better now its retro bolted. Between 'Charity' and 'Hope' are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right hand of these cracks to roof, continue up through overlap and up slab with bolt.

Climb the face to small roof, traverse left and over the roof on good rock.

Start: Just right and up from 'Charity Buttress' is a small wall.

See arapiles.net for a photo. Start at the front R arete of the block, R of DDT.

Diagonal seam that doesn't quite reach the ground left of FOTR. Bouldery start, diagonal then wall right of the corner of Pure and Simple.