Routes in Central Coast

Start matched at the Hueco as for Hot Rats. Up to the big jug but send it up and left. Top moves are classic and tricky. Finish at the break 3/4 way up. Drops off.

Starting at slopey break. traverse below the lip of the roof on well formed pockets and crimp high on lip. Finish at pocket jug a few moves after the two finger pocket.

Tops out the same as 'Hot Rats (top out)'.

Electric pergolas into Generator

Start on the right side of the cave at good left and split pockets for right. Traverse left along the roof via edges and pockets to finish as for De-Fib.

The big foot ledge is out until you reach the De-Fib start holds.

Start left and right in large pockets. Punch up to sloper and stand on small crystal to crimp, top out.

Start in slot jug on the left, jump (reach if tall) to next slotted hold. Traverse right and finish up Mel Gibson Memorial

Lethal Weapon but with the Mel Gibson Memorial top out up left. Jug rail is out.

Start matched on undercling on the far right of cave moving up and right to finish matched at the obvious break.

Start as top shelf and climb into broken boy soldier

Starting on the finish jug of "Room With a View" and head directly up through a long move to the crimp rail, continuing straight up to top out.

Sit start at the back of the cave, and follow the line of holds arcing out to the right. Finish matched on a ledge around the lip after some cruxy moves.

Back to the upper level. This is the boulder problem under the roof that sits above Nice climb for the Kids and Little Gem. When you come the collapsed roof system and crawl thru to the other end of the cave you will come to a roof system about 1.5m above ground level. "Room with a view" starts in the back of the cave and goes all the way to the lip and finishes on the headwall.

Sit start as for plastic messiah but head directly out prow to pinches.

Sit start using the two pockets left and right of the hollow in the boulder. Use some trickery to work right and up the slimpers to nice mantle press.

Keep shoes on, there is some broken glass on the ground.

Undercling the crack and smear your way up and left to gain the horizontal break. Lock off and reach for the slopey top out. classic

Start: Sit start at crack below little rooflet

Start 1-2m to the right of the crack with left and right hands in two dimple pockets, smearing the seam. Hop up left hand to a bad slopey hold and press your way out. (How do you grade a mantle?)

Sit start at the right most point of the horizontal break under the rooflet. Traverse left a few moves, then break out to the lip. Using the series dishes on the face for hands, kick the feet over to the arete and mantle over to join "Shin Splints" and top out.

Crawl way down in the back of the cave, all the way down there in the little stream. Follow the rail leftish to the big pocket,then some tricky moves back right lead back into the establish line. Finish as this problem.

Start: Way down the left hand side of the cave 'matched' at the base of the toilet bowel scoop. can be sit started if it's not too wet

Start for the Established Line. Climb straight into the mushroom and finish as for Curve Ball. Drop a grade if you use holds on the established line for your feet.

Start: Sit start as for 'dead bolt' and climb up into the pocket roof then move right across the buldge below the top ledge and into the next little cave to finish up hydraulic.

As for Dead bolt but from the feature on the face move left to the bad slopers under the block (avoids the good break farther right). Top out around the left side of the block.

Start: Sit start "matched" on the farthest left hand end of the big low rail

Climb “Rigor Mortis” into “The Golden Pinch” .

Start as the ming Dynasty to the big jug, then drop down and traverse low to the good slopey rail on Jade emperor, match it then finish as for that problem. All the higher holds above the line of the good slopey rail are off

Sit start on the lowest lip hold at the little cavelet before the arete. Bust up left to a crimp rail, and start trending up and right before a slabby/layback style top out. Keeping on the face of the boulder until the end. (Starting mega jugs of the arete problem are out)

Sit start on the bottom corner of he arete and follow slopes and shallow pockets on the right hand of the arete. Slam the top slopes and commit to the scary top out. Classic

Low sit start, up the right side of the bikini feature to finish on the half way break. Topout still not linked?

Sit start matched on large incut slopey sidepull. Pull up into large slot jug then straight up. Top out.

Sit start at the sandy slopers at the edge of the right hand side of the cave, move up and left through large pockets before dropping into an undercling and sloper on the lip. From here slap up to the top of the boulder to top out.

Same matched start as Bec De Corbin but instead of moving right from the flake, move left and up to mantel just to the right of Ōdachi.

At the front left side of the cavelet, standing start with left hand in thin deep slot on the face and right hand undercling on tiny edge under lip. Move out right to good slopey edge then up to left crease. Move up from sloper on the buldge to good hold, gain the lip before sketchy mantle just right of the plant over arete.

Stand start R/H on flat edge, L/H wide on high sidepull flake, bump R/H to arrow head pinch feature before tricky heel or toe to gain high R/H gaston, gain the jug break then out to lip and mantle

Shared start with Write to me and escape but move out right after the drop down move, topping out in the middle of the face.

Bring lots of pads to cover the death pit below the topout.

Mauricio Chino Stephen Rawls

Start matched on brain hold shared with SSSS, move left using rail and jug into crack. Finish same as Shai-Hulud.

Sit start under the small prow on the low left hand crimp and right hand low on the sloper rail. Right heel up and continue directly up the prow and mantle in the little cavelet.

Ledges and back wall for feet are not in. One of the best lowballs going.

Start on the face left of the block. Out roof then traverse left to anchors on Roast Lobster.

Traverse in from the R to the steep weekness and up passing a huge incut. Rap anchor.

Starts 8m L of Monkey in the Soul at the L end of the cave at a double bolt belay. Move R across the overlaps up into the corner than further R across yellow hanging wall, out to the lip and up to rappel station. 1 fixed hanger and 6 rings. A good one in the wet.

Start as for 'The last post', joining 'Run for your life' after the roof

Weird and wandery (with some interesting rope-management challenges) but tackles some nutty terrain on the best rock here.

Start as for Rehabilitation, but instead truck left for days to a cave-rest. Then switch gears and throw yourself at the power-endurance headwall, moving left at the last bolt to climb the arete on its right side to gain the anchors.

Climb 97% mitch free, but move left to the small cave on the steep wall. Head straight up from here to lower offs at very top!

Sit start with RH on lowest side pull, LH on small crotch height rail 2ft out left, move up RH side pulls into top out.

Starting on the sloper rail between Shai Hulud and SSSS find easy pinch before moving onto sloping crimps, stand up tall with poor arete side pull to finish up on highest point of the boulder past no hands slab.

Sit start low on bulge matched on side-pulls around either side, follow seam up and to gain crimps on the face and proceed to top out towards the highest point of the boulder.

Start as for Re-entry moving left from the jug along crimps to finish Decompression

Sit start with left hand on left hand sloper and right hand on right side sloper. Move directly up to jug then to the left crimp and sloper. Use the small pocket on the far left to top out.

Sit start at the horn. Out to the lip to finish on the edges.

Sit start on the ramp, sloper traverse up and left to mantle into the scoop.

Stand start in the double hueco ledge and go straight up – use the "victory" hold out right as per 'Gobshite'.

Sit start as for Penrith by the sea and traverse the lip all the way to finish as for slippery nipple.

Start on the smiley hold, up left then desperate mantle over top, staying out of 'Gutted'.

Sit start and up easily along obvious left diagonal to hideous mantle.

Eliminate the lay away block on power pergolas

Starts left of Power Pergolas. Very thin and powerful.

Starting way down in the Veranda take the line of least resistance through the roof coming down and through the low eliminate block and reversing the 'Low Traverse' finally finishing up 'Love Jugs'. 50+ moves of awesomeness and probably around a 26ish as a sport route.

Start 1-2m left of Paraplegic and head more directly towards lip of cave and join 'Paraplegic'. Should be done with lots of mats and some good spotters at avoid falling on the sacrificial altar, otherwise known as the Widow Maker.

Hard variant: Finish on 'Persistence Resistance' (unknown)

A slightly overhung boulder with safe landings. Start on a ledge on the far left on the boulder, then the big move to a slight break before the lip then traverse along the iron band then top out. The block to the left and the bottom plate are out.

Sit start matched on a rail just right of the arete, climb directly up the face on scattered small holds. Finish as per Chicama, up high.

Start under the overhanging arete, crimp your way up to slopey rails and reachy moves to top-out high and right on the face.

Sit start on the jug lip and head directly out the cavlet through some jug before encountering a crimpy crux and huck to the lip. Top out slight left beside the boulder.Back ledge isnt in

Start on decent left side pull on the left face and right hand on arete, straight up to edge with a fun mantle.

Lie down start matched on the knobby structure in the middle of the sector. Right heel hook to start and continue straight up to a high top out on jugs. First move hardest move.

Lie down start on jugs under the arete at the end of the wall. Traverse left to the sloper shelf and up via right pinch and a knee bar to jugs under mini roof and topout. Shares start holds with Mini Lobster, but traverses left at start.

The most obvious line up the middle of the wall. Stand start on an incut rail. Following the series of edges up to the big pocket feature high up before topping out further right.

Starting on the top break at the end of Broken Soldier Boy, follow the fine line of solid holds through the sea of choss topping out the boulder walking off left before the mini overhang.

WARNING. Be very carefully especially higher up where a lot of the solid looking holds are quite loose and will break off quite easily

Slap the big sloper then punch directly back out and around the lip to a bad pocket then back rightish via various bad crimps and edges to finish at the break above. The big slot to the left is off for hands. Classic hardy

Start: Sit start below sloper under lip

Match start on flat wall at back of cave facing water side, moving out on large pocket jugs on right wall before reaching back into the crimp rail and moving out and mantling the lip.

Intense traverse across wall from L to R, finishing up Larks Tongue.

Start and finish as for ‘Slugs on the wall’. Move up to left hand slot and right hand flat side pull. Yeet to the break and mantle over. No feet on the wall to the right.

Start on smooth slot at the beginning of the left hand arete. Climb the arete all the way out to finish topping out the same as Sloths in the attic.

Sit start low using bad holds on the arete. 'Snatch' the little break on the right hand face then up.

Start: This problem climbs the little sharp arete on the block just to the right.

Sit start as for Road Side Assistance. Follow the crack to the right and up same as Ridin on the Bump Stops.

Climb up and right on super slopey features avoiding the crack on the left. Classic subtle sloper pulling

Start: Standing 1m right of the hole just before the rooflet, starting with a slopey R/H edge

Sit start low in the back of the cave and follow out the obvious line of incut edges to the big horn. Slap around to the slopey top out. slighty easier if you finish a bit over right but often wet.

Start: At the back of cave matched on first incut edge

This problem starts as for the Established line but heads left, reversing the start of Extended line to gain the big rounded hole. Confused yet? I am.

Now move around to the left face and fire up for the top of the groove to top out.

Start: As for Established line

Sit start as for happy pyramid, and traverse low right to large span move, not using any of the higher jugs in the cave. Then finish for dead and alive.

Climb the little prow to finish as "dead bolt" Avoid the twin pockets right or moving left low into the roof.

Start: Sit start below the little prow

Start: Sit start as for 'Rigor mortis' on low underclings. Fire up right for the tufa feature, match it and finsih straight up to the ledge.

Follow the low rail right, press up into the pockets in the little roof then gain the feature on the face. Move up to the break below the boulder on top by either a big move right or by using the thin little pinch out right. Tops out over the right side of the block. Super!

Start: Sit start "matched" farthest left hand end of the low rail.

A variant of "Dead or Alive" that avoids using the big hueco and stays a little more left and climbs then faint rib. Take the low R/H side pull, cross left hand to the golden pinch then make a hard move with your right to gain a another match box looking pinch. Finish matched on the ledge. Classic Norwegian power!

Start: Sit start on the R/H cave wall as for "we'll never make it out alive"

Start as for slopey bread loaf in the middle of the wall, mini hop to weird pocket and top out