Ascents in North America as trad by David Gibbs having Distinct route

Lower bolted section went far more smoothly than I expected.

Start was soaking wet and slimy, other bits were wet in the crack, so we decided to TR it.

Mostly on Simon's gear, though I did add one piece. Gear was good, and good stance for placing it, so could easily have place it myself.

Good climbing, but really hard for5.8, and looks like the gear would be tricky to place, too.

Went smoother than I expected. I should lead this next time.

Fell, again, in the crux section from bolt 1 through 2 to the mantle. I'm pretty sure the moves in that section are not 5.8.

I'd have added a bolt to protect the start if it were my route, but it isn't my route, or my crag.

Like the other trad routes, would be nicer if cleaner. I did brush a bunch of lichen off on the way down -- looked more like a route after that.

We also used the first bolt of "Mad Tom" to protect the start.

Thin at the start and the gear is a bit PG.

Some technical climbing, at times above thin gear.

Fell off right at the top -- which is far better than I expected this to go.

This is an old-school Gatineau "5.8". Probably more like 5.10.

"Warm up"

Since I'd already climbed Relampago, instead of finishing up the crack, I finished directly up. Probably a 5.9 finish.

Unlike many of the other climbs in the area, this doesn't take particularly good gear.

Good gear and good climbing.

Borrowed and place a #6 on this. But, probably ok with a #4, then smaller gear at the back of the ledge, rather than the #6 in the wide crack.

A bit dirty and mossy -- needs a recleaning or more people climbing it. Not as good as it could be in the current shape.

The 5.6 grad on this was a mite mad -- definitely harder and more committing than that. Still a tough and heady lead -- but a couple bolts in the dihedral where I sling the tree (twice) would be a good improvement.

Like several other trad routes I've climbed in the area, felt like climbing stacked blocks in places. Gear looked generally pretty good, if you avoided the looser bits. But seemed really hard for a 5.7, even climbing it on TR.

Lead P1, followed P2.

Lead all the pitches -- lots of fun climbing.

Climbing is fine, but gear is a bit tricky.

Some thin moves on pebbles.

Gear wasn't as good as on "Outside Corner".

Swung pitches, starting with p1. (Nobody lead meadows traverse.)

Lovely enjoyable -- but get on it early to avoid the crowds.

Followed clean -- but was exhausted (shaking) at end of P1, so had to call off trying pitch 2. Maybe food? Maybe spending an hour shivering at the belay? Not sure why.

Ok gear, but often placed from poor stance.

I found pitch 2 difficult, or at least, difficult to read at 5.8. And hang-dog doesn't quite give the same as feel as "a couple lead falls on gear, including popping the top piece on one of the falls."

Just an absolutely excellent climb. Great gear throughout, many interesting problems, but, assuming you have the climbing vocabulary, never harder than 5.8.

Stiff for its grade, and getting polished.

Felt harder than "Tastes Like Chicken", the 5.9 to the right of it.

Mixed up the finish.

Classic!

While the hardest bits are well-protected, many other sections are, not surprisingly, run-out.

I'd be surprised if it wasn't the most popular route on The Chief.