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Ascents in Oceania by Alex Hartshorne having trad-cpr or ascent-date

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 308 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Thu 26th Oct 2023 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
29/30 Augmentium - with Claudio Trefny Trad 30m Classic
Wed 20th Jul 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
Duck Reach Vamp Buttress
26 Seize The Day Mixed trad 25m, 3
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Ben Lomond
Northern Escarpment Frew's Flutes
28 Breathing Space - with Scott Roberts Trad 80m Mega Classic
Wed 16th Feb 2022 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area Lost World
20 Proteus Trad 28m Good
Some of the dirtiest, loosest and nastiest rock on the pipes.

Excellent.

 
Fri 4th Feb 2022 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area New World
22 24 Would Jesus Play Guitar in a Thrash Metal Band Mixed trad 15m, 2
20 Quintessence of Clarity Mixed trad 15m, 2
20 Parkynsane Trad 20m
23 Toxastoma Par Excellence Mixed trad 15m, 4
Fri 12th Mar 2021 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre
20 Resurrection Shuffle Trad 30m Classic
25 Second Coming Trad 25m Classic
19 Punk Trad 25m Very Good
Sat 6th Mar 2021 - Ben Lomond
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress
26 24 Doug and Squib's Route Trad 75m Classic
Lead placing all gear, laughable at 24.

First pitch is a bit sketchy but fine with small wires.

 
24 King of Heaven (Social Lepers) Trad 85m Classic
Tue 9th Feb 2021 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
The Shady Side Dammit Area
25 Dammit Trad 15m Classic
Thu 21st Jan 2021 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress
22 Equipoise - with Claudio Trefny Mixed trad 30m, 1 Good
Most of the climb is spent trying not to climb malignant mushroom, staying on average rock. The last 6m of climbing on the arete is very good however.

 
24 Isonomy - with Claudio Trefny Trad 30m Good
A bit escapable but good climbing!

 
19 Smoke and Mirrors - with Claudio Trefny Trad 35m Average
Fri 1st Jan 2021 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes The Columns
23 Hakea - with Anna Trad 40m Mega Classic
Absolutely brilliant climb that has faded into obscurity. It required quite some cleaning of grass etc. but I left all the little shrubs as they're cool.

Due to my big fat hands I found this desperate even at 23, but Anna thought 22 with her wee mitts?

Reminds me of Atlantis and Holiday in Cambodia, but better, much harder and way more sustained.

 
2021 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs The Gonk
30 The Hourglass Trad 20m Mega Classic
Sat 28th Nov 2020 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes The Columns
21 Tartarus Trad 60m Classic
Really good with a tricky thin hands groove.

Reccomend doing it as a single long pitch with 3x hand sized cams.

 
Fri 27th Nov 2020 - The Paradiso
27 Snooze and You Lose - with Rosie Mixed trad 35m, 14 Very Good
Rad route. Took a few goes due to greasy conditions today.

Better and harder than Expendable Youth not all that sustained.

I thought I was trying a 28 but it would make sense at 27 on a better conditions day. I also never found your kneebar Claudio!

Take a #1 c4.

 
Wed 25th Nov 2020 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes The Columns
23 Face What You Fear - with Rosie Trad 20m Good
Pretty good, tricky sizes for me.

 
Sat 14th Nov 2020 - Mount Brown Main Face
26 Time Goes Bye - with Rosie
1 23 lead by Alex Hartshorne
2
2 18
3 22 lead by Alex Hartshorne
5
4 26 lead by Alex Hartshorne
5 23
Trad 120m Classic
Rad day out!

The climbing was a touch dirty in places but that's expected as this is an epic place.

The 26 pitch was great, the boulder problem in the corner felt hard but I'm a bit out of shape. Solved with granite squirm style! A knee pad would change things.

There where a couple of spots where clipping was difficult, pre equip for sure.

The desperate and scary mantle got easier as I pulled a minger off leaving a positive slot.

 
Tue 18th Aug 2020 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes The Columns
24 Minds Eye Mixed trad 70m, 20 Good
Wed 12th Aug 2020 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
22 Latex Evening - with Claudio Trefny Mixed trad 40m, 10 Good
thisis quite good and not a soft touch at 22. Odd choice of bolting ethics though!

 
Mon 20th Jul 2020 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Gracelands
23 Lud Heat Trad 13m Very Good
Mon 20th Jul 2020 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Travel Land
25 23 Hugs 'n Kisses Trad 12m Very Good
Utterly desperate, but quite good.

Big fat sandbag at 23. Kinda scary placing gear too.

 
Mon 20th Jul 2020 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Tetragrammaton Buttress
28 28 R Fodiator Trad 47m Mega Classic
Easily the best route I've climbed on the white granite.

The crux is uber technical and whilst well protected there is always the possibility of massive airtime.

 
Thu 4th Jun 2020 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
29 Triple Direct Trad 30m Classic
Sat 9th Nov 2019 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
21 Braindrops Trad
19 Judgement Day Mixed trad 67m, 1
22 The Second Coming Trad 57m
20 Kingdom Come Trad 45m
25 Trojan Mixed trad 86m, 2
Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
23 22 Boy Racer - with Amelia Trad 30m Classic
Awesome position! Definitely a gnarly, slippery sandbag, and placing gear is pumptastic. Probably around the same grade as Karma Sutra.

 
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Arapiles
Far North Werewolf Area
22 Goodbye - with Chris Arvier Trad 30m Classic
What a hidden gem!

 
Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Arapiles
Far North Lower Curtain Wall
15 The Joker Mixed trad 25m, 1 Average
25 24 Hello Hollywood - with Chris Arvier Trad 50m Very Good
Very tricky and committing traverse crimping on slick pebbles.

I rapped in to inspect the semi-rotten carrot and found it 'just' ok. Is that a flash? Meh. Be careful.

Probably 24 R realistically.

 
Tue 23rd Jul 2019 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress
28 Forever Young Mixed trad 25m, 5 Classic
Battled the slime and worked at night. Changed the crux beta a bit and sent.

Brilliant and varied climb, with a reachy crux.

 
Sun 7th Jul 2019 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
28 No Space in Time - with Ryan Sklenica Mixed trad 20m, 7 Mega Classic
Brilliant sustained climbing.

The steep trad crack climbs like Arapiles whilst the rest is classic Bare Rock sustained face.

Love it.

 
Sun 12th May 2019 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Alchemy Wall
27 Ockham's Razor - with Travis Mixed trad 20m, 6 Classic
Sweet! Pretty psyched to get this! Definitely pure slab brutality at just the angle where the creditcard holds also need to be yarded on.

Ended up taking 3 shot's, today so skin is shredded.

Felt hard but 12d pure slab is really hard, could be 13a... Unsure.

 
Sat 11th May 2019 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
27 28 Total Eclipse of the Heart - with Gaz Trad 20m Good
Rad thin thin corner crack. The meat and potatoes is in the first 6m past black and blue aliens. However my fat fingers meant the fun is far from over at the .3's.

Soft, possibly 26 if you dont have sausage fingers.

 
Wed 24th Apr 2019 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
26 Incest Sensation Direct Mixed trad 40m, 5 Classic
26 25 Taste Sensation Direct Finish Trad 30m Classic
Awesome. A grade harder than taste sensation.

 
Thu 18th Apr 2019 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
28 The Great Escape Mixed trad 20m, 4 Classic
Was shut down by this years ago. Approached with better crack climbing technique and it went very quickly!

 
Thu 18th Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - South
28 Anaconda - with Claudio Trefny Mixed trad 60m, 8 Very Good
Cool long route. Hard boulder past a wierd pinch hold.

 
Mon 18th Feb 2019 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes The Columns
27 27 R Duckling Trad 30m Very Good
Sat 9th Feb 2019 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area Lost World
20 Black Cherry Trad 25m
23 Play Dirty Trad Very Good
22 The Space Of Disse Trad 10m
Tue 29th Jan 2019 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area Lost World
22 Face It (Direct) Trad Very Good
Mon 28th Jan 2019 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area Lost World
23 Play Dirty Trad Very Good
Really good flared courner. A bit dirty but not too bad.

 
Thu 24th Jan 2019 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area Lost World
25 Don't Eat Yellow Snow Trad 15m Very Good
Required some gardening.

Pretty good technical cimbing more outside the crack than expected. Gear a little tricky. Probably at the upper end of 25.

 
Tue 8th Jan 2019 - Fortescue Bay
The Totem Pole
27 The Sorcerer - with danny wade, simon bischoff Mixed trad 65m, 9 Classic
Epic. Similar to the Free Route but way more crimpy.

 
Sun 22nd Jul 2018 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
29 Hubris Trad 30m Classic
Awesome burly climbing. All gear placed on lead, a little blind and scary at times. I've never placed gear upside down from a kneebar before...

Possibly lower end 29.

 
Tue 10th Jul 2018 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Rubik's Cube
24 Snakes, Ladders Trad 8m Good
No gear at all. Fun toprope problem.

 
20 Digit Trad 7m Average
Awkward size for me

 
20 Fractional Trad 12m Don't Bother
Bad gear.

 
Mon 9th Jul 2018 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Low Starting Point)
16 Pneisses Trad 240m Good
Scrappy badly protected slab climbing in a truly beautiful setting.

Would be a fun solo!

 
Sun 24th Jun 2018 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos Lower Slopes South Park
28 Stan - with Rosie Trad 15m Classic
Fell off the bottom a couple of times then sent!

All gear placed off the right hand so very very pumpy. Good thing the last move is off the left.

 
Tue 19th Jun 2018 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area Lost World
17 Commoner's Crown Trad 25m Good
Not as good as right hand line

 
18 19 Cries and Whispers Trad 25m Very Good
Cool crack

 
17 16 Raiders Of The Lost World Trad 25m Very Good
Rad

 
21 Blood On The Racks Trad 20m Very Good
Very short and thin. Wet shitfight to get out.

 
19 18 Heavenly Headjob Trad 20m Good
Jungle to start then odd duel crack to roofy step left.

 
17 Stone the Crows Trad 25m Good
Sweet crackat thw bottom, no4

 
16 15 Cloaca Trad 20m Good
Actually pretty fun!

 
19 20 Back on the borderline Mixed trad 20m, 2 Good
Strange but good. Harder for bigger hands fo sho.

 
Sat 16th Jun 2018 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
29 Hubris Trad 30m Classic
Just working out the moves and gear. It's gonna be a little scary on point as several gear placements are a bit blind.

 
Thu 24th May 2018 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
29 Serpentine - with squib Mixed trad 75m, 11 Mega Classic
Holy crap, finally got it last day last try. This is definitely one of the best climbs I've ever done. Relentless and incredible climbing all the way to the top.

 
Fri 18th May 2018 - Victoria Range
Eureka Area Eureka Wall
26 Pythagoras' Theorem Mixed trad 50m, 3 Mega Classic
Another close one! Slipped moving to final jug first shot. Brilliant brilliant climbing, just like granite.

 
26 Archimedes' Principle Mixed trad 60m, 2 Mega Classic
So close to onsight, slipped with my fingers on jug. Pumpy!

 
Fri 18th May 2018 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Amnesty Wall Area Orange Blossom Wall
20 Layback And Think Of England Trad 25m Classic
Second best 20 I've climbed in the gramps. You need a 5 and 6.

 
Fri 18th May 2018 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Kindergarten Northern Caves
20 Genuine Wage Overhang Trad 30m Very Good
Old school chimney crazyness! rock not great but ok.

You need a 5 and 6.

 
Tue 17th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Northern Group High Dive Gully
23 Cellular Destruction Trad 8m
27 Power Corruption and Lies Trad 15m Very Good
Bouldery and cryptic start. Watch your back!

 
23 High Dive Trad 25m
21 A Taste of Honey Trad 27m
Tue 17th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
28 Slinkin' Leopard Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
Dino is easy, crimps are well hard.

 
26 Wackford Squeers Mixed trad 30m, 3 Very Good
Sketchy bolted traverse, big falls but safeish.

 
Tue 17th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge
18 Scorpion Trad 30m
23 Kama Sutra Mixed trad 42m, 2
19 Kama Sutra Pitch 2 Trad 35m
11 Blockbuster Trad 30m
21 Jenny Wren DS Mixed trad 30m, 4
20 Quo Vadis Mixed trad 33m, 1
Tue 17th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
17 17 R Missing Link Trad 30m
18 18 R Preservative Added Mixed trad 30m, 1
17 17 R Missing Link Direct Finish Trad 30m
26 Anxiety Neurosis - with simon bischoff Mixed trad 27m, 4 Classic
Campus campus campus

 
Tue 17th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
25 Station to Station Mixed trad 22m, 4 Very Good
20 Thunder Crack Trad 30m Very Good
24 23 Despatched Mixed trad 40m, 2
Mindtrip

 
22 22 R Unrequited Trad 15m Very Good
Tricky gear but great climbing!

 
Tue 17th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
24 Deeply Techo Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
22 Feral Chicken Mixed trad 20m, 1 Very Good
25 Feral Fee-box Mixed trad 12m, 3
Terrible bolting, cool slapping for 2m.

 
21 Slap the Philanthropist Trad 30m
24 23 Petrol Solutions Mixed trad 30m, 3
23 Slap Happy Mixed trad 30m, 1

Showing 1 - 100 out of 308 ascents.

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