Ascents in Australia by John Drake

Apparently my 10th ascent of this route, but only now did I find the hands-free kneebar at the rooflet.

Was once a project, but has now become my typical warmup here. I still love coming back to this one.

This is such a stellar pitch. One of my favorite lines at Piddo.

Actually quite enjoyable. I'd recommend it.

Not pleasant.

Was climbing in borrowed shoes, so perhaps shouldn't have expected to get up this thin slab.

A quick lap, just for fun. Carrie led the harder pitches (the first, and the first pitch of the headwall) and we simuled most of the others. Something like 2 hours on the wall. A very nice day out.

Swung leads with Stu. I dogged pitch 1 and climbed the rest clean. The first pitch lived up to its reputation- I think it's hard 23. Don't let this put you off though, it's easy for a grade 21-22 climber to pull on draws to get through all of the hard moves.

Still excellent, still soft.

Led clean on Jonas's gear. A very nice trad line, but less classic than thruxton, and soft for 21. Double ropes were helpful. Some gardening may be required.

This was great! Highly recommended. This side of boyce has a lot of good trad lines. Crack is very clean now, so get on it.

Wow this schooled me hard. I half climbed, half aided it. Several sections felt like the starting crux of Exhibition Wall, repeated over and over. Thin, hard, and actually a bit overhanging. It could be a crimpy project, but I don't think I'll be back for it.

This actually wasn't bad. A single hand to fist sized cam is all the gear that is required.

Felt cruisy today.

Still great!

Easily led, placing gear. Confidence is important for reaching the lower break. Classy climb.

Not a bad route, actually. Instead of stepping around left, you can go straight up the orange face at about grade 16.

Seconding to clean. This was also better than expected.

Three laps, as it was the only dry route at the crag. The upper section was a bit wet still.

Third go. Figuring out how to rest before and after the techy traverse was key.

What a ripper of a pitch! I enjoyed this immensely. Came off at the roof- pulled the rope and sent it second go. This is "19" in the same way that Ballrace is "17".

Worked out the cruxes. Has some fingery and runout moves. Had a bit of an epic, as the rope decided to tie itself in a knot while pulling through the anchor. I found out that its quite straightforward to walk to the top.

Quite an enjoyable little warmup. Climbed the crack directly, which felt much harder than 14. A bit sandy above the crack bit.

That finish is hard.

This was brilliant. A technical crux on the vertical section at 1/3rd height, followed by steep jug haulin'. Did this one-hang, and might be able to get it with some more fitness on the steep stuff.

Very nearly had it. Clipping the last bolt before the anchors is hard from the crimps: next time I might skip it. Very nice crimping climbing up a great looking wall.

Clean with ease today.

Average, and very soft for the grade of "19". The older 18 to its left (Nappy Action) is way harder. I recon this is 18.

Not great, and very easy after the first move. The first move is 17, and the rest is 15-16. It's very soft at "18".

Nice sustained climbing. The bolting is a bit more customary compared to the many new gridbolted routes on this wall. This is also much harder than several of the new "19's".

nice warmup.

Several go's, but too pumpy for me. No move is that hard... but there are a lot of them.

Nice climbing. A small cam was nice (red alien, purple X4). Third shot. Had a heartbreaker fall on my second shot, as I fell clipping the anchors

Really nice climbing, but the finishing step right to the anchors was hard, awkward, and not at all enjoyable. That's a shame, as the rest of the route is fun.

Two cruxes, each of which is harder than anything on fashion. Very thin start, then deadpoint through the orange rock. Okay I suppose. Second shot

I certainly wouldn't give this three stars. I suppose it's "a line", but I would only recommend it for those into spiderwebs and suss rock.