Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
22 Hard | ★★★ Insomnia | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Grasshopper | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
3 back to back onsights! What a day. Stoked to finally get out to this - definitely holds up to expectations.
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower | ||||||
22/23 |
★★ Orange Marmalade P1
1
| 55m, 1 | ||||
There happened to be a party on Clockwork Orage when we rocked up, so did the first pitch of this to kill the time.
Despite the description, the “bolted belay” of the adjacent route is actually 2 carrots… so lowered Aidan and then down-led the pitch. Cleaned up an old stuck sling in the process too, which literally pulled apart in my hands. |
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome fun. That corner looks so intimidating from below, but it climbs surprisingly reasonable.
Sandbagged ourselves by assuming we could rap off, so took packs to the base. I got the honours of bush-bashing out at dusk with the gear and rope, whilst Aidan got to rap down, and do the long walk with one pack stuff inside the other. |
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | ||||||
20 ~19 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Glorious hand crack, and an excellent start to the day. Almost as many threads as cams, and I managed to do only one fist jamb the whole way.
Managed to get away with 1 x #3 and 1 x #4, but I’d imagine more sane people might want a double of #3 |
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19 Hard | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not sure it quite lived up to the hype, but it’s definitely a unique position, and makes for some great exposure.
Honestly, the crack after the roof felt like the hardest moves I’d pulled all day! |
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun finger locking with some nice techy footwork.
I’m a pretty aggressive downgrader, but I didn’t feel like this was soft. Maybe I missed something 🤷🏻♂️ felt pretty good anyway |
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge | ||||||
25 ~24 | ★★★ Samarkand | 150m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seth won the rock off, which meant that I got the honours of leading the wet slab start. Just to add to the controversy, I’ve done harder 18s, despite it being completely soaked.
Despite the choss, the whole route was still excellent. I wish p3 was longer though! Awesome morning, and good to finally tick it off the list. Finger didn’t give me any grief which is nice. Everything except the last pitch felt overgraded, but it didn’t detract from the fun of the movement. |
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
North Wall - Main | ||||||
23 Hard | ★★★ Right in the Bunghole | 130m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
“One of the best pitches in bungonia” is a bold claim when competing with the likes of Siblings of the Sun. This wasn’t even in the same weight class.
Gets a star for the awesome and unique belay holes, but I didn’t find the climbing all that interesting. Lots of easy stuff interrupted by a (hard for the grade) crux. Dogged through the crux - turns out my finger isn’t better yet. A nice sustained sequence, a bit hard to read. Worth doing - not certain it was worth the walk out though |
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
North Wall - Main | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Strangeness and Charm | 150m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Started via Wailing Cockatoo. Loved p3, and grateful it hadn’t rained recently, because the bath was dry. Finished up Wailing Cockatoo Direct Finish
Took a double rack, and regretted it. I think I placed two cams, and never touched anything except my offset nuts and 1 hex. |
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21 ~20 |
★★ Wailing Cockatoo Direct Finish P1
1
| 65m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Was sitting in the bath tub, and this line looked better (had no clue where it went, or how hard it was).
Absolutely loved the pitch! Was cruisy, edgy slab climbing the whole way. Didn’t do the last pitch, because it didn’t look worth it |
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22 Hard | ★★★ Wailing Cockatoo | 45m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A rude reintroduction to slabs, especially with an injured finger. Fun, but wasn’t close to my favourite pitch of the day.
Felt harder than everything else, but maybe I was just re-learning limestone. Started a bit further left and stepped across to avoid climbing through the tree |
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | ||||||
22 Hard |
★★★ Blast Off
1
2
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Incredible splitter crack, and no giveaway either. Would make a nice easy single-pitch stopping at the ledge, but the p2 finger crack is the money.
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Little River | ||||||
15 | The day the gear ran out | Average | ||||
A fun little ground-up expedition into the unknown. Had a light rack with me, so why not. Surprisingly decent gear, but took a while to find it. Managed to use everything of my light rack (including draws) except 3 nuts.
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
24 ~23 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lives up to the hype, and now takes first place for best gear route I’ve done. The movement, the position, the gear, the rock. It’s all perfect (1st pitch only, T&Cs apply).
Seth took the lead so that I wasn’t tempted to push myself on the injured finger, but I think I almost preferred the toprope lap (please don’t hold it against me). It meant that I could just cruise up the perfect line, enjoying the movement without having to think about what might come next, and without stopping constantly for gear. There’s no way it goes at 24, and I think it might also go entirely on passive gear, so might give it a crack next time I’m out here. Top pitch was absolutely drippingly soaked, so we topped out on the bolted line adjacent (also wet). 10/10, do this route. |
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21 ~22 | ★★★ Pebble Pundits | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did it in 2 pitches, which meant I got to climb the entire length of the thing without stopping!
Crux is definitely the top pitch. The money pitch is awesome, but only 20, maybe 21. |
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Colosseum | ||||||
23 Easy | ★★★ Wake of the Flood | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wanted to do it in one, but pitched out before the 3rd, as I wasn’t comfortable doing the crux moves so close to the ledge with 30m of my super stretchy rope out.
Going against popular opinion and giving this two stars. It was really good, with lots of different styles throughout, but each was too short to truly experience. 2m of hands, 3m of chimney, 1 body length of squeeze, 3 moves of crux crack. Each was an exceptional section of climbing, that wasn’t long enough. Would still recommend |
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★★ On Both Sides of the Glass Direct | 60m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Not bad, despite the fact that most of it was damp.
Surprisingly, there’s quite a few unnecessary bolts, with good pro directly next to it. First bolt on P1, and at least 3 of the bolts on P2. Was good news for me, considering I left my bolt plates in the car |
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge | ||||||
19 | ★★ The Silk Road - with Rachael Brock | 130m | ★ Good | |||
Nice chill morning with rach, good to place gear again. Some sections of really good climbing, interrupted by ledges and dirty topouts. Worth it for p3
At 5’2” rach was on the lookout for the move that was “harder if you’re short”, but failed to find anything reachy 🤷🏻♂️ #6 is absolutely unnecessary, with the crack taking plenty of other gear at that point. Also only took 2 x #2 and it was fine (the p2 belay has options). Got to place my 4 a couple times though, which makes me happy |
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Colosseum Corner - with Andrew Durrer | 78m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First pitch earns the stars. The top was surprisingly not as dirty or vegetated as it looked, but the climbing was pretty mediocre.
Did in 2 pitches, Canadia led the first, I did the top. |
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Solomon Area | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Gemini | 51m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the first pitch. Finished up 2 bolts of arete
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Tombstone Wall | 30m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rach decided to lead this one. Not a bad route
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24 Hard | ★★ Graveyard Wall Direct | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Last bolt plate didn’t fit over the carrot! Pumped out trying to grab one from the other side, and couldn’t hold the last 2 crimps… still feels more legit than stepping out left though
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
16 Hard | ★★★ The Gates of Janus | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Incredible! Probably the best, most consistent easy crack in the mountains. I’d say it even outclasses The Eternity.
More climbing than you expect, and some perfect jambing from loose fingers to perfect hands. |
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14 | ★★ Gently Mine | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rachael’s lead. Deceiving appearance, there’s not as much big gear needed as you’d think.
First pitch only |
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Deckout Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Chain Mail Crack | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Not bad if you’re into that kind of thing.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Googolplex Crag | ||||||
18 Easy | ★★★ Fuzzy Navel | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Absolutely epic, must do. Goes in 1 pitch on a trimmed 70.
Thought we were on bilbo doing the left variant (didn’t really read well, just went for the best looking line). A lot of concern about running out of rope, but we made it. |
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20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nowhere near as hard as it looks, super fun. Probably should be marked as a sport, the only gear is very optional
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21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Last route for the day, more quality slabbing.
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Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Mindblower | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Plenty of gear to be found in the seam if you’ve got totems of small nuts
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23 | ★★★ Walking Wounded | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ Reminiscences | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had a bit more fern in my face than I would have liked, but actually better than the description suggests. No grovelling to be found
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
SRC Crag | ||||||
16 | ★★ #2 In The Hole Variant Finish - with Michael Houghton | 20m | ||||
Was supposed to be #2 in the hole, but after committing to the groove instead of stepping to the tree, one thing led to another and a mostly-independent route was done
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16 | ★★ #2 In The Hole Variant Finish Variant Start - with Michael Houghton | 20m | ||||
Decided to have a top-rope play on some slabs, then realizing it was protectable (if bold), came back to do it placing gear
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17 | ★★ Red in the Shed | 20m | ||||
Following after Mike - committing not knowing whether that seam would take gear
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Kiama | ||||||
Bombo Quarry Bollocks wall | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Chop the bolts | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bit of a chossy start, but the crack above is awesome. The bolts are an absolute disgrace, and need to be chopped
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19 | Do it for her | Average | ||||
Rach didn’t like the start of the 17, so I decided to go direct to avoid it… she didn’t like that either
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23 ~23 | ★★★ Time is the enemy | 14m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Epic route! Ground up onsight on gear, all the way to the hanger at the very top.
Whoever placed the bolts should be ashamed of themselves. The gear is bomber all the way, and enough to aid it. I’d also agree with Frothy, it’s definitely not even close to 26, although 21 would be a sandbag |
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17 ~18 | ★★ Drowning In a Sea of Bollocks | 19m | ★ Good | |||
Quite nice. Maybe a little hard for the grade
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
South Wall - Main | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Siblings Of The Sun
- with
Michael Houghton
2
21
40m
lead by
Michael Houghton
Just as I was starting this lovely, slabby traverse, the rain came in. Got myself quite scared, and a combination of wet holds, the pack, and not trusting my feet made me give up and step on the anchor for the downclimb from the last bolt
4
22
35m
lead by
Brendan Coulter
A few fun moves almost makes up for the tree-induced rope-drag and the dirty chossy groove
6
24
35m
lead by
Brendan Coulter
THIS is the money pitch! It’s almost good enough to make you forget about the first 5. Stoked with how well I read the route, and climbed smoothly in such an epic spot.
7
26
15m
lead by
Brendan Coulter
Got all the way to the last bolt before the pump caught up with my bad route reading. Tough little number, but surprisingly enjoyable. Quality chipping | 260m, 61 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A little bit of rain on-route obviously isn’t enough to scare us off - even if it did scare me a little. Stoked to get back out here and do a long route, and super glad I had Mike to rope gun some of those early pitches.
Prefacing this: I LOVED the slabs on jumpmaster… Honestly though, skip the ground-up, and rap in for the top pitches. The 24 is worth every bit of effort, but the first 5 pitches were 1-star at best. |
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
SRC Crag | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Crack | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice clean line, on some solid quality limestone
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Thu 13th Jul 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Rock the Clock | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★★★ Grey Mist | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rachael took the lead (and got the onsight) of this one.
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16 | ★★ Man Overboard | 26m | ★ Good | |||
I recall this being one of my earliest trad leads. Nothing to write home about, but still enjoyable
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Wed 12th Jul 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Bayside The Yardarm | ||||||
16 | ★★ Sympatico | 20m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Ground Swell | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bomber gear, straightforward enjoyable face climbing
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Bayside The Yardarm | ||||||
14 | ★★ Urban Spaceman | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
14 | ★★ Over the Yardarm | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Rach getting a good lead in
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Superliner Area | ||||||
17 ~16 | ★★ Sunset Strip | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Those damn jugs ruining a good crack climb!
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Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 Hard | ★★★ Short Order | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tougher than I remember, but also way more fun
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18 | ★★ Warlock | 26m | ||||
26 | ★★ Wild One | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Took a little to figure out how to do the crux. Once I figured it out, went down easy - the rest was one hell of a fight though!
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★ Yodel up the Valley | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Anchor could use a replacement - one bolt, and it’s been bent over pretty aggressively.
Made use of red and green dragonfly, which was fun. Save it for when you’re running out of new routes to climb |
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Epic Journey | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The impressive part was Rachael’s top rope flash of this
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17 | ★★★ Smoked Banana | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Better than I remembered it, fun the whole way
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Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★ Mechanical Prune | 18m | Average | |||
Nowhere near as fun as I remember
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15 | ★ Iron Butterfly | 28m | Average | |||
14 | ★ Electric Lead | 26m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Somehow haven’t logged these yet
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24 ~23 | ★★ Plate Tectonics | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got scared clipping the pin and pulled on the gear. Fun technical face climbing. Gets the grade for the fear factor - climbs closer to 22/23
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
26 Easy | ★★★ Yesterday | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Cruised it first burn of the day. Few mistakes and poor beta, but went down nicely.
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
26 Easy | ★★★ Yesterday | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Dropped off on the ground-up, popped my 2nd piece, and just avoided the ground.
Pulled it clean on the top rope lap, so now I just need to place the gear |
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 R Easy | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I’m sure the climbing was enjoyable, but you’d wanna be VERY confident at the grade to consider leading it.
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Much leas intimidating less grunty than I expected. Also shorter than it looks
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27 Hard | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty chill for the first part, then it gets HARD. Didn’t put the crux together, not sure if I’ll try again this trip or not
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Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Crooked Mile - with Rachael Brock | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
19 Hard | ★★★ Tarantula - with Rachael Brock | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bit tough for the grade, but at least it was dry
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Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Wasp - with Rachael Brock | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought it was a touch easy, rach found it quite hard - so maybe height/style dependent.
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18 Easy | ★★ Voodoo - with Rachael Brock | 65m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice reminder of araps rock.
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21 | ★★★ Chinese Algebra - with Rachael Brock | 48m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool, long crux sequence. A few foot slips kept it spicy
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Callitris Corner | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Hangover Layback - with Rachael Brock | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definitely went the wrong way on pitch 3. Fun warmup, rach led the first pitch
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
24 Hard | ★★★ Robbing Hood - with Rachael Brock | 50m, 3 | ||||
Jumped on someone else’s top rope. Would be an impressive onsight
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25 Hard | ★★★ Languish in Anguish - with Rachael Brock | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tough, but awesome. Toprope attempt - couldn’t put together the crux, but got everything else figured out. So much fun when there’s no chalk to point the way
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19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - with Rachael Brock | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lives up to the hype. A 70m gets you down from the chains
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17 | ★★ Buckley's - with Rachael Brock | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good until the top section
|
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16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - with Rachael Brock | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Into Buckleys
|
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Jaffle Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Alien Country - with Rachael Brock | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Nowhere near as fun as good vibes direct, but worth doing given the easy access and anchor
|
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18 | ★★ Goodvibes Direct - with Rachael Brock | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Interesting climbing, interesting gear. Looks intimidating, but there’s always bomber gear where you need it
|
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20 | ★★ Cup Cake - with Rachael Brock | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
The crack is quite enjoyable, but the first moves into the crack really detract from it
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Flying Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Icarus - with Rachael Brock | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome, but it’s a shame you’ve gotta do the flying buttress escape.
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Flying Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★ Vortex - with Rachael Brock | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting, and slightly strenuous
|
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Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Checkers Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Pine Crack - with Rachael Brock | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did the last pitch to the top, but probably best to bail after P2. Awesome route
|
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17 | ★★ Pagoda Original - with Rachael Brock | 100m | ★ Good | |||
Not really worth the hype, but not a bad intro to Moonarie
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Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | ||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado - with Dylan Glavas | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got entirely lost on the walk-in, leaving us with time for only one route. There some sick climbs here, but could really do with some more traffic to pound in that trail.
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Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Pit Fighter' | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter | 30m | ||||
Got shut down hard, and my injured knuckles couldn’t take the beating to figure out the crux.
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Thu 9th Feb 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Lost World Area Lost World | ||||||
18 | ★★ Lost Wanderer - with Rachael Brock | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyable, but I didnt realize it had so much green-red 😅 that traverse might be tricky if you’re super short
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25 | ★★★ Rose Pink Cadillac Direct - with Rachael Brock | 20m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stoked about this one! Only detractor is the full-recovery rest before the top crux… but thank god it was there, or I wouldn’t have sent.
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25 | ★★ Opioid — 2 attempts - with Rachael Brock | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Missed the flash right at the top! Didn’t notice the awesome side pull out left, and tried to go straight up the tips crack. Some nice, technical climbing
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Sat 28th Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Stacks Bluff | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Aqualung | 150m | ★★★ Classic | |||
No rain, and the “gale force winds” were coming from the other direction, so the whole thing was protected.
I took the crux pitch, seth got the money. Linked p2+3 with minimal drag |
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Lake Huntley | ||||||
27 |
★★★ Deeper Water
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
| 310m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Epic route, epic day! Keen to get back on it (when I’m a little stronger)
Decided to rap the route with a single rope and tag line, for a single day mission, stashing snacks and water bottles at belays. First rap (to top of golden corner went smoothly). From the golden corner we learned a lesson - when pulling a biner-block abseil, if the anchor twists the rope, it’s impossible to pull. We spent ages pulling as hard as we could, before realizing the futility. Cue lead-solo French-free shenanigans up the first few bolts to retrieve the rope. Next rap down the 23+24 went smoothly because there were double biners left on the hangers. Down the “balls in a juicer”, we learned (the hard way) that it was our single biners on each hanger causing the twisting. Not keen to repeat our previous efforts, and the fact that it was now after midday - we decided that we’d go from here. I “jugged” (on a prussik and grigri) back the whole pitch, belayed Seth up, then lowered and had a crack at it myself. The climbing, surprisingly, went smoothly. 26 - nails! toprope flash by the skin of my teeth. Not the nicest warmup, but a great intro to conglomerate slabs. 23 - Seth took the lead so I could rest my fingers. As I unclip the last bolt, eye-to-eye with the belay, I say the dumbest thing I could “probably shouldn’t fall here”, which was the precursor to a rock snapping, and me swinging straight under the belay. 24 - Onsight. Very tricky to figure out. You don’t notice the runout because you’re too focused on climbing. 25 - toprope flash - lead by Seth. Epic move out for the crux, I’m stoked I got it given the pack and how cooked I was. 20, 20 - linked the last 2. Was excited for the variety of a chimney. Decided I’d had enough variety on the dripping, mossy hand traverse |
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Mon 16th Jan 2023 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Boneyard | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Angel of Pain | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Was already equipped, so I had a crack at the onsight warmup.
Best climbing I’ve done in Tassie. Awesome finger locks, techy crux sequence - awesome the whole way. Probably the best I’ve climbed technique wise too, which I’m super proud of. Misread the crux first shot, then cruised it. |
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Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Alchemy Wall | ||||||
21 Easy | ★★★ Alchemy - with Andrew Durrer, Rachael Brock | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 ~18 | ★★★ Blue-eyed Blonde - with Andrew Durrer, Rachael Brock | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very fun - little bit of a one-move wonder, but love the granite slab crack
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25 ~24 | ★★★ Immaculate Misconception | 20m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super enjoyable climbing, and quite mentally engaging to the 2nd bolt.
Following the obvious line right of 2nd bolt isn’t 25. Actually lowered down afterwards to try it direct - harder, and stupidly contrived. |
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Pegasus - with Andrew Durrer, Rachael Brock | 48m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Surprisingly enjoyable for a chimney. Introduction to adventure climbing for TallStrongAthletic Rachel
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Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Mount Brown Main Face | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Talk is Cheap | 220m, 99 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Epic route, despite the spooge. Feels spot on at 24 when wet. Seth took a fall right onto the belay when tearing a rock off! Keep an eye out for the loose stuff.
Pitch lengths are vastly overstated - the entire thing can be done on a single 70m easily. Climbed it in 4 pitches. Total route length is probably closer to 150m. The 2 pitches off the ledge are exactly 35m strung together (not the 50 the guide suggests). |
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Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Apline | 70m | ||||
Rachael’s lead, she nailed it
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19 | ★★ No Turn Unstoned | 45m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super spoogy around the crux area. Probably linked into something else at the top - but it’s really all the same on those top slabs. Finished up the pillar hand crack, because it’s the best feature on the wall
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19 Hard | ★★★ After the Goldrush | 70m | ★★ Very Good | |||
That 2nd pitch is a bit of a surprise! Did pitch 1, realized party in front was too close, downclimbed pitch 1, then came back after lunch for the route.
Did the variant finish that breaks out left, including the foot traverse the whole way around… then climbed back because I realized rach wouldn’t want to do that. 10/10 would recommend for a little bit of exposure |
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Second Coming | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First 25 onsight on gear. If only the finger crack were longer!
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Channel your inner sport climber and you can get away with doing no real offwidth climbing.