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Ascents in World as Pink point by Paul Frothy Thomson

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Showing 401 - 500 out of 601 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Thu 19th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
24 Thrust Gut Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
2nd shot. Hard 24 boulder-problem for the first 2 bolts, then about gr20 (and easier) for the rest of the route. Totally flashable, I simply didn't manage it. The boulder problem slab start is fun despite its short duration, and the upper is okay despite its easiness. The first bolt location, however, is utterly stupid. Too hard to solo to, too high to stick clip without a minor epic... You almost need to climb So, Said the King just to equip the first part of this route... Pointless.

 
24 These Apples Must Be Jen's Sport 20m, 7 Very Good
Epic retro-flash. I'd been on this over 2 years ago and got utterly spanked (and didn't remember a thing). Today, since Andrea's draws were already on it, I gave it a lap and enjoyed every minute of it. Great climbing despite some worryingly creaky holds, with a strangely powerful lower crux (I solved it with a hardcore left-leg flag that put me totally horizontal) that is almost out of context for the climbs slabby nature. Great techy upper section through much blankness and a pleasant runout.

 
Wed 18th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
23 Euchre Sport 22m Very Good
2nd shot today. Felt quite easy (even on the first shot) but I still managed to throw to the wrong hold before reaching the halfway ledge and fell off on the 1st shot. The business end is over quickly, but it's some entertaining steep jugging with big moves.

 
Mon 9th Mar 2015 - Bare Rock
New Horizons
24 The Mullets' Edge Sport 18m Classic
2nd shot. On the Onsight I ended up on the wrong side of the arete to clip the 2nd bolt and couldn't get back on route, thus blowing it. The 2nd shot went okay, but was still hard work. Super-sustained knifeblade arete climbing which doesnt give it up without a battle of balance and barn-dooring. Crux at 2nd bolt, with an out-there sting in the tail as you climb thinness straddling the arete for the last 4m or so. Very sharp thin crimps for the right hand, and arete slapping for the left.

 
Sun 8th Mar 2015 - Bare Rock
Main Face
23 Mornings Minion Sport 83m, 14 Classic
2nd shot today, 3rd shot total. Mmm... black-rock slabbing in the full sun. I really battled the heat on this. 1st shot today I fell off in the same place as yesterday, not remembering anything (and my chalk washed off from rain overnight). 2nd shot today, feeling worn-out and heat-struck, I kept it together and crushed. Another Bare Rock classic.

 
26 27 Ride the Lightning (Ride the Lightning P1) Sport 200m Classic
2nd Ascent. 2nd shot. Didn't quite manage the flash with flash pump surprising me on a matched fingernail edge, but went to the top with only 1 fall. 2nd shot felt awesome. This climb was made for someone like me. 30m of non-stop, slightly steep, super-thin technicality on micro-edges, sidepulls and underclings. No real pronounced crux, but trickiness that you could easily fall off on the last move to the anchor (3 x slopey gastons through a steep bulge). Beautiful black and orange rock.

 
Sat 7th Mar 2015 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
26 Vapour Trail (Pitch 1) Sport 25m Classic
2nd shot today, 4th shot total. My 1st attempt today placing the draws was a dogs breakfast as I got epically flash pumped, too hot in the full summer sun and stressed with the expectation of a quick send. The 2nd shot was executed perfectly, and was just fun, steep, pumpy big moves between big slopes. I chose not to place the last draw before the anchors for some encouragement not to fall. Did another lap at the end of the day for some photos with Simon Carter.

 
Thu 5th Mar 2015 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
Duck Reach Vamp Buttress
26 Seize The Day Mixed trad 25m, 3 Mega Classic
3rd shot today, 6th shot total. Utterly stoked to tick this inspiring piece of rock. Should've gone 2nd shot today, but my smeared foot slipped as I grasped the final mingen crimp before the juggy finale. Like a harder version of Toyland Direct, but better rock and fewer stances. The fluid technicality of the crux felt more amazing after each lap, but the insecure top slab never felt anything other than heartbreakingly precarious. A great test piece.

 
Wed 4th Mar 2015 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Dungeon
25 Bozon Sport 12m Very Good
2nd shot. Utterly spanked by the boulder problem start to the 2nd bolt on the onsight. Reminds me of a sloper version of War and Peace in the Blueys. Definite crux at the start to a very hard clip on a giant sloper, then big moves between (mostly) big slopers to the top, with a fair bit of climbing for a short route. Better than I expected, and quite pumpy.

 
Fri 20th Feb 2015 - Township Creek
Fireball Pinnacle Area
23 Horus Sport 18m Very Good
2nd shot. Mostly enjoyable tricky arete climbing, but with a pronounced, very cruxy crux section that felled me on the onsight. Makes a great warmup when you know the crux sequence.

 
Thu 19th Feb 2015 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
25 Dopamine Sport 30m, 15 Classic
2nd shot in the rain. Thought for sure I had the flash (placing draws), but I fell off at the 2nd last bolt, the last of the long series of hard moves when I totally misread the sequence and sandbagged myself onto the wrong jugs. On the 2nd shot it went well, and was simply amazing fun. Sustained, thin, technical face climbing with lots of varied, tricky moves and no true rest stances. Less overtly cruxy than Heaven Can Wait but much more intense. Immacculate rock.

 
Fri 30th Jan 2015 - South Sister
Tea Pot Rocks
24 Mr Tea Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
2nd shot. Burly and technical in equal doses. The thuggy but awkward start leads to a balancy arete and a ridiculous throw leaving it to gain a good edge. My onsight ended on the top arete. The 2nd shot with the sequence dialled felt great. Good rock. Quite sustained but with good stances.

 
Thu 22nd Jan 2015 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
25 Pot Bellied Whale Sport 25m, 10 Good
2nd shot. This would be a rad 22 to the good undercling that marks the start of the crux (about 16m up), but the bouldery crux (which FOR ME required some desperate smearing, a back-heel, cross-over match and full-body barndoor, square-heel rockover and a spot of sloper-loving) is a stark contrast to the rest of the route, and kind of sharp with rock rapidly deteriorating the the anchors.

 
Thu 15th Jan 2015 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress
25 Chop Sticks The Sequel Sport 30m, 10 Very Good
2nd shot. 1 fall on the onsight (warm up). Thought this was the bolted 21 arete nearby to do as a warm up. Thought it seemed insanely hard, and insanely runout to the 1st bolt (8m up, gr19 climbing), and scarily runout at the top. In hindsite that would be because we were on the wrong climb, and THIS one is supposed to be supplemented with gear. Only gave this another lap to get the draws back. Good arete climbing with some great (and brutal) sequences which I thought were quite strenuous.

 
Tue 6th Jan 2015 - Fortescue Bay
The Moai
24 Ancient Astronaught (Ancient Astronaught p1) Sport 35m Classic
2nd shot. Sustained and varied hardness. Climbed as one giant pitch. 3 of us ticked this climb today, and all 3 climbed the crux 1st pitch COMPLETELY differently in its entirety. For the middle crux section, I used right hand arete-slapping rather than the razor-thin crimping of my friends. The top pitch is dreamy technical climbing, with the first few metres off the halfway anchors being particularly memorable.

 
Sat 3rd Jan 2015 - The Paradiso
24 Offender Of The Faith Sport 30m, 10 Classic
2nd shot despite being sick as a dog. I thought I was on track for the onsight, but I made a mistake at the 6th - 7th bolt and threw it all away. Clean to the top from there. 2nd shot I felt tired, but it went easily enough. Great sustained featured climbing in a huge range of styles, that doesnt let up to the anchors. Some spooge made things exciting, but conditions at ~8pm when I sent this were nothing to complain about.

 
21 Man's Machine Sport 32m, 10 Very Good
Spooged off the moves between 2nd and 3rd bolt on the flash. Came down from there and climbed clean to the top. Still needs more traffic and is a bit gritty, bit the climbing is varied, interesting, long and logical. Could become a classic. Excitingly bolted!

 
Wed 24th Dec 2014 - Chulilla
Pantano Chorreras
7b Los merenderas Sport 40m Classic
2nd shot. The flash was with 1 fall at each of the 2 cruxes. 43m of awesome moves, but with some choss (and lots of glue behind flakes), and needs more traffic to clean up the crozzly footers on tufas. The lower 15m is slopers galore with an unpleasant sloper crux, but the remaining 27m is radical featured flake and tufa climbing with tricky body position moves and feet, but separated by juggy stances. This is the 1st climb ive done with long sections of streno open hand pinches on slopey tufas.

 
Tue 23rd Dec 2014 - Chulilla
Pantano Algarrobo
7c Nibelungalo (Nivelúngalos) Sport 30m, 10 Mega Classic
First 27! 3rd shot today, 4th shot total, but arguably my first proper red point attempt as after my onsight attempt yesterday my first shots today involved screwing around putting on draws that other climbers had removed. Came really close 2nd shot today (placing 5 of 10 draws) with a single fall, pull straight back on and go to the top. With perfectly refined beta, the 3rd shot was "mark and execute" and felt utterly rad! Super sustained, technical, thin, long, pumpy and COMMITTING. Stoked!

 
Tue 9th Dec 2014 - Siurana
Siuranella centre
7a la secallona Sport 25m Very Good
Blueys climbing on Nowra rock!!! 2nd shot. 5th day on (14 days climbing in 18 days in Spain) and im falling apart! I didnt find a CRUCIAL sidepull on the onsight but cruised the rest. 2nd shot was executed perfectly for a mega-tired end of day send. Hard first 4 bolts, with a rad bolted trad 20m of easy featured climbing to the anchors. Totally worth a lap.

 
7a+ Si vas níquel fas tard Sport 22m Classic
3rd shot. Had some mega-whips on this moderately runout classic on the onsight, and punted it on the last hard move on 2nd shot (my small brain got confused with the spanish bolting) but stuck it for a frozen fingers 3rd shot send. Radical sustained semi-bouldery steep climbing that keeps coming all the way to the anchors. Stellar rock, position and moves... now if only they moved 1 stupid bolt placement...

 
Sat 6th Dec 2014 - Margalef
Cami de Sant Salvador Raco De La Finestra
7b 7a Ingravitus (Ingravitas) Sport 18m, 7 Classic
Great techy and body-position dependant climbing up rad flake features, but the first 3 bolts are v4 boulder problem at least. It took me 30min of non-stop work to put together a viable sequence to get to the 3rd bolt, and that still involved a full bodyweight monopocket move, 2 mingen crimps and a desperate throw. After FINALLY linking to the 3rd bolt I flashed to the top.

 
Fri 5th Dec 2014 - Margalef
Les Espadelles Racó de les Espadelles
7b Amb pal no Dona pal Sport 25m Classic
2nd shot today. 3rd total. Almost did it placing the draws, but muffed the top crux (while feeling fine) due to unrefined foot beta. Felt in control and awesome on the 2nd shot. Sustained and varied and one of my favs at this crag. Had some fun skipping bolts (and clipping at my feet) to guarentee the send.

 
Fri 5th Dec 2014 - Margalef
Les Espadelles Punta Espadelles
7a Els meteorolegs (N1) Sport 23m, 8 Very Good
2nd shot. Thoroughly enjoyable. Had a rad onsight burn but never found the crux jug well back from the lip before I fell off the final roof. Interesting slightly steep pocket pulling with an exciting finale.

 
Tue 2nd Dec 2014 - Margalef
Les Espadelles Racó de les Espadelles
7a+ Dulce Bella (Unknown scoop route) Sport 25m Very Good
First shot today, 2nd shot total. Cold but brilliant felt much easier today, but still thoroughly enjoyable.

 
Mon 1st Dec 2014 - Margalef
Les Espadelles La Mainadera
7a+ La niña de la selva (La nina de la selva) Sport 18m, 7 Good
3rd shot. My 2nd shot was stylish perfection until I punted it at the top. The 3rd shot was desperate, feet-free lobbing but somehow kept it together. The bottom 2/3rds is hard sequences with good stances, but the top headwall is sandbagged desperation. Big moves, average pockets, terrible feet and STEEP.

 
Tue 25th Nov 2014 - Camarasa
Fashion
7a+ Aromes de Camarasa Sport 21m Very Good
2nd shot. A good looking pocketed blue streak. Mostly about grade 21 but with a super powerful crux sequence that I muffed on the onsight.

 
Tue 25th Nov 2014 - Camarasa
La Pera
6c+ Tururut Tribut Sport 30m Very Good
2nd shot. Awesome climbing up an incipient seam all the way to a topout atop the pillar, but bloody oath the bottom 1/3rd is a sandbag. Very sequency and strenuous, but cool.

 
Mon 24th Nov 2014 - Oliana
Contrafort de Rumbau
7b Placa Ferdinand Sport 25m Very Good
2nd shot. Mostly 21-22ish face and pocket climbing, with a very thin and run-out boulder problem crux near the end. A bit chossy and with some stupid bolt placements. Looks aesthetically pleasing.

 
7a+ Nunca doy un paso atrás R1 (Nunca doy un) Sport 20m Classic
3rd shot. Rad polished varied tufa climbing (my 2nd tufa ever!) With a hard facey finale when youre pumped. Hot in the spoogey sun. Onsight I sandbagged myself at the top trying to climb too direct. 2nd shot I hadnt actually sorted the top crux and came-a-cropper. 3rd shot it was style all the way for the send!

 
Tue 28th Oct 2014 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari
24 Jets Over Jordan Sport 50m Very Good
With Gene. Both pitches went first shot today after I scrubbed about 1kg of lichen and dirt of the crucial holds with a wire brush. Made for a brutal warm up, but was excellent climbing the whole way. The first 10m of P1 is still intense! Get on it while its clean!

 
Fri 24th Oct 2014 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge
24 Burn The Cross Sport 30m Very Good
Gave it hell and got good linkage, but didn't manage to find the chalkless crucial hold at the crux before I fell off. Still felt tough, but went easily enough second shot. The climbing is awesome, with the crux near the ground and some rad moves near the top, but the rock quality is quite average. I know you're psyched, Nathan, but calling this "mega-classic" is rather pretentious.

 
Mon 6th Oct 2014 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer
24 Meat Mallet Sport 25m Very Good
A great route, and quite sustained in the top half. Harder than any other 24 on this wall. Surprisingly little chalk on the top half of this (one of the crucial crimps didn't have any chalk or ticks on it, and I fell off on the onsight when I didn't see it and tried to do the moves without it). Quality climbing.

 
Sat 30th Aug 2014 - Wolgan Valley
Old Baldy Lower Cliff
25 Top of the Pops Mixed trad 65m, 4 Classic
Wow! Dream send! Repeating this rarely climbed hard-trad testpiece of the era of Wolgan hardmen has blown my mind! 1st lead attempt, with pre-placed gear (8 bits of gear and 3 bolts) in part because the MISSING PITON on the middle (hardest) crux means the moves are done well above a single #4 wire in marginal rock to stop a 10m ground fall. I would be willing to do placing gear now, though! Boulder-problem lower crux; techy, strenuous trad-pro middle crux, and powerful fingery trad-pro top crux.

 
Sat 23rd Aug 2014 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
24 The Young Violent Pony Sport 25m, 10 Very Good
2nd shot today, 3rd in total. The first shot today was a throwaway with epic flash pump and trying to remember the tricky footwork. The 2nd shot was still a bit of a battle, but I felt solid the whole way. Probably the least-climbed line on Bentrovato wall, but actually something of a unique gem with non-existent feet and tricky movement. The last move of Kizashi could be a heart-breaker if you haven't got it dialled.

 
Fri 22nd Aug 2014 - Mount Alexandra
Manchester United Wall
24 Suspended Animation Sport 10m Very Good
2nd shot. Went quite easily one the second go. The flash ended on the last move to the end. An action packed, intense 6m of climbing with 2 trickly sequences requiring some interesting footwork (and super-secret JengA beta). Better than I expected considering its contrivitae.

 
Sat 16th Aug 2014 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
26 25 Reigning Steel Extension Sport 27m, 13 Very Good
3rd shot, and I had to work for it! Hmmm, hard to grade... Very hard 25, softish 26? Neil is right with "harder than Kizashi but easier than Sadomastication". Probably more sustained and strenuous than Sado, but -despite having 2 HARD moves- without Sado's particularly hard crux. Totally worthwhile and demanding thinness, with lots of funky sidepulls and very high feet.

 
24 Climbalot Sport 27m, 11 Very Good
3rd shot. Onsight ended at the dyno (took me a bit to figure it out: stop trying to be tricky, and just face-on LAUNCH) then clean to the top. 2nd shot I muffed the dyno by completely missing it for no reason. 3rd shot it was all on to the top. Mostly a hardish 22 but for the pretty full-on dyno move. Consistently awesome climbing with interesting moves all the way to the top, 30m up. Probably deserves another star, neilio.

 
Thu 7th Aug 2014 - Nowra
The Grotto Cliffline Moon Wall
24 Swallow The Moon Sport 13m Very Good
2nd shot. I struggled at first with the one crux move on my onsight, but cruised and thoroughly enjoyed the rest. The 2nd lap was just fun. Mostly lots of thin but positive crimping, with 1 power-move crux at the 2nd-3rd bolt. Good!

 
Sat 2nd Aug 2014 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower)
24 Rhubarb Crumble Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
2nd shot. Should have been an o/s but the crucial crux pocket was full of spider webs, and I didn't even see it amongst the rock. Probably soft at the grade. Has cleaned up okay and makes a worthwhile climb.

 
Sat 19th Jul 2014 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall
23 Alliterating Austrian Ostrich Sport 30m Mega Classic
2nd shot today. Despite the epic sandbag at "23", this IS STILL my all-time favourite Shipley route. Cruised it first go today placing draws (years after my lasy attempt)... EXCEPT for going into the lower crux completely wrong, trying to battle on and eventually falling off. Cruised it 2nd shot, and climbed with dreamy eyes the whole way. Perfect. Long, sustained, varied, no true crux, slab, face, steep, roof... PERFECT.

 
Fri 11th Jul 2014 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall
24 Form One Lane Sport 22m Very Good
Cruised up it 2nd shot... would make a good warm-up with the beta sorted. 1 fall at the 2nd bolt on the onsight, the rest clean. A bit strenuous past the first 2 bolts, then quite enjoyable and thin to the top with tricky moves all the way.

 
Sun 29th Jun 2014 - The Woolwash
The Junkyard Cave
24 Communal Spoon Sport 15m Very Good
3rd shot today. It was all there for the taking on the 2nd shot when I arrived at (literally) the last move feeling fresh as a daisy, but I threw it all away when I forgot how to do it! 3rd shot went easily. Quite a fun and obvious line with lots of big holds, and a few tricky/sequence moves. Meat-wrap/rock-over for the win!

 
Tue 10th Jun 2014 - Céüse
La Cascade
6c+ Medecine douce Sport 20m Classic
2nd shot, in the blazing sun. Hard, steep, bouldery and polished, with a nails hard (and possibly dangerous) 3rd clip. Would be 24 at Nowra. Amazing climbing that doesnt let up until the anchor.

 
Mon 9th Jun 2014 - Céüse
Berlin
6c+ Bleu comme l'enfer (Blue Comme Llenfer) Sport 30m Classic
3rd shot. Totally had it on the 2nd, but threw it away with a foot slip after the crux. Finally send in a hail storm. Resistance climbing to the bouldery double-crux, then awesome slopey groove climbing for 10m up a slab with no holds. Brilliantly tecnical.

 
Sun 1st Jun 2014 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
25 Kizashi Sport 20m, 12 Classic
2nd shot today (9th shot total, over about 2 years). Almost did it first shot today putting up the draws (and not remembering the moves) but balked a 1/2 move from the end-of-crux jug and jumped off. Went easily (and awesomely) 2nd shot. A stunning climb, unlike anything else in the Blueys. No Pronounced crux, just getting continuously harder, more technical and body-position dependent all the way to the 2nd last bolt, with a tough final heartbreaker move. One of my favourites.

 
23 Reigning Steel Sport 17m, 7 Very Good
3rd shot. Wow, embarrassing! I sandbagged myself with some stupid beta making the crux about 2 grades harder, until Neil showed up, slapped me into shape (with the RIGHT beta), and I cruised it on the 3rd shot. Not a bad climb at all, but far from the best to be found on this wall. I definately enjoyed it more once the crux was at a more feasible grade. Made a good warm-up.

 
Wed 28th May 2014 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mitchells Ridge Grace Gully
26 Grace Sport 16m Classic
4th shot today (7th total, over about 8 months). The 2nd shot went perfectly until my footer slipped on a sandy footer going for the anchor jugs. 3rd shot I sandbagged myself trying to avoid the sandy footer (and completely messing up my sequence), so: 4th shot it is. The dangerous (though not uninteresting) start robs this climb of perfection (and soon becomes tedious). Great technical moves and sharp crimping with a pronounced crux. Doesn't climb much like an arete, but DOES climb rad.

 
Fri 9th May 2014 - Victoria Range
Buandik Area The Gallery
24 Bang, Bang You're Dead! Sport 13m, 4 Very Good
2nd shot. Was cruising this on the onsight until I ended up on a red-herring chalked up-hold out left. Grrrr... Weird climbing with tricky footwork and positions, but I enjoyed it. Probably more 23, I think. Better rock than it looks.

 
Thu 8th May 2014 - Victoria Range
Buandik Area The Tower
24 Iron Arms Pitch 1 (Iron Arms) Sport 20m, 6 Classic
3rd shot. Cruised the crux on the 2nd shot, but knocked myself off trying to gain the seam. Got it solidly (but tiredly) on the 3rd round. Until the half-way rest, this route is classic technical slopey body-position climbing. The first half of this climb basically has no "holds". With good footwork and sequences it all flows beautifully and feels right at the grade. Perhaps my favourite climb of the day, and the one I'll remember The Tower for.

 
22 See The Light Sport 27m, 10 Classic
2nd shot. Fell off the last move to the anchors on the flash attempt (pumped silly). The climb flowed nicely (fluidly) on the second shot, but I still ALMOST fell off on the desperate last move (theres a crucial hold that I managed to miss both times). An amazing introduction to this Taipan/Arapiles-esque style of body-position slopey face climbing that is equal parts baffling as it is amazing to a Blueys climber. Perfect rock.

 
Tue 6th May 2014 - Victoria Range
Eureka Area Eureka Wall
25 26 Archimedes' Principle Mixed trad 60m, 2 Mega Classic
Dream send! Is this the best climb I've ever done? On JengA's gear (all placed on his onsight attempt, and left quite runout). Ticked 2nd shot after 2 big falls on the flash attempt. Consistantly thin (though with an obvious crux sequence), the sideways slopey crimps are draining on the arms, and make for tricky, slippery footwork. I fought tooth and nail for the tick. The juggy traverse to the arete caught me off-guard for the last super-runout techy move to gain the arete. Exhilerated!

 
Mon 5th May 2014 - Victoria Range
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag
24 Krankandangle Sport 15m, 5 Classic
2nd shot. Steep, heel-hooking funkiness with some big moves and even bigger slopers. The wet holds at the end of the travers-y section made this a bit more challenging. From the "crux" to the runout finish is exhilerating steep climbing.

 
23 Pocket Full of Dreams Mixed trad 25m, 2 Mega Classic
On JengA's gear at the top. Balked at the start on the flash attempt (1m off the ground) like a pussy, then cruised it 3 seconds later. Desperately thin footwork at the start (and probably bouldery if you're short) leads to runout trad bliss up the corner and out onto the fake to the anchors. The slightly wet thin holds at the top added a dose of spice. A true old-school classic. The first 2 bolts have now been replaced with rings... Thank god!

 
Sun 4th May 2014 - Victoria Range
Buandik Area The Gallery
24 Two Tribes Sport 15m Classic
2nd shot. Had to skip the last clip to battle the pump. Straightforward but enjoyable thugging through ridiculous steepness to the final climactic finish. Who knew I could enjoy steep climbing?

 
Sun 27th Apr 2014 - The Woolwash
The Junkyard Cave
23 Sixteen and Pregnant Sport 15m, 9 Very Good
2nd shot. Juggy thugging and heel-hooking. Doesn't feel too hard, though it is quite pumpy. I struggled putting on and clipping one of the draws on the onsight. Short and sweet.

 
Sat 26th Apr 2014 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps
25 Toyland Direct Sport 30m Classic
2nd shot today, and still a mighty fight (though I felt switched-on and solid the whole way). Stoked to tick it. The top slab isn't the crux, but unchalked would make for a nails onsight. Sustained climbing the whole way (from about the second move) without any prominent crux "stopper" move. Hypnotizingly technical, spaced bolts, and just that little bit steep to keep you pumped the whole way. Face climbing at its best. Next stop: Aesthetic Images

 
Sat 12th Apr 2014 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area
24 Rhinocerotic Crack Trad 20m Very Good
3rd shot (should've been second, but I forgot about a crucial footer). Feels about 23 when the gear/bolt plates are on it. Awkward, strenuous climbing for about 7m, then a pleasant runout cruise to the anchors of Traverse of the Gods.

 
Fri 28th Mar 2014 - Nowra
Thompson's Point The Pocketed Wall
22 Meaty Mesmo Sport 10m Very Good
2nd shot, slipped off the slippery slopers of spooge first shot. Harder crux than Murdoch, but less sustained. Linked into the top of Murdoch for a pretty nice route.

 
Tue 25th Mar 2014 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
25 Grape Hour Sport 22m, 8 Classic
3rd shot today in the dark with a headlamp! Should've gone 1st shot placing the draws, but fell off on the last (not that hard) move to the halfway ledge when I sandbagged myself with dumb beta. A silly mistake on the 2nd shot sent me falling. But it went easily and was executed perfectly on the 3rd shot, for a satisfying send. Great, sustained climbing that's not too cruxy at all. Stoked!

 
Thu 6th Mar 2014 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall
26 Smoked Mussels Sport 12m, 4 Very Good

 
Sat 1st Mar 2014 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Main Wall
25 Piano Tossers Anomynous Sport 20m, 10 Very Good
2nd shot in hideous conditions (the left side of the crux section was a waterfall). Funky climbing. Fun, bouldery start, then a long, intense crux on miniscule holds. Unique style to this crag. Stoked to get this one.

 
24 Chocolate Trouble Cake Sport 28m, 14 Very Good
2nd shot. Not great. A bit stop-start and kind-of cruxy. Not a great warm-up.

 
Wed 26th Feb 2014 - Mount Alexandra
The First Cave
26 Biafra Sport 12m, 4 Very Good
3rd shot. Feels quite easy at the grade. The top crux isn't that hard but -for me- could only be climbed with one specific sequence, and any slight alteration to that sequence made it impossible (hence the 3 shots). Short and powerful. Not classic like Los Hermanos, but less intense.

 
Thu 6th Feb 2014 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer
25 Gruntled Sport 25m Classic
Stoked! 2nd shot today, 4th total.The top didn't go easily, and I almost muffed the sequence when the rope got in the way of my crucial footer. A desperate "noooo!" and some tormented improvising resulted in a modified sequence and the send! Absolutely brilliant climbing in every respect, and one of the best climbs I've ever done at the grade.

 
24 Rat$ Sport 20m Very Good
Very cruxy. 3rd shot... I should really have consolidated the beta before the 2nd shot and it would have saved a great deal of effort. Of all the climbs on this wall of The Freezer, this climb has undoubtedly the hardest crux sequence. Fortunately the rest of it is quite easy climbing, though the runout to the anchors (seriously, DON'T FALL) is exciting. When you have the crux dialled, its actually a nice climb.

 
Wed 5th Feb 2014 - Lucas Heights
23 Hills Have Eyes Sport 12m, 5 Very Good
3rd shot in the dark with a headlamp. I sandbagged myself on the flash, and a silly foot-slip halted the 2nd shot. 3rd time lucky it is! Kind of awkwardly hard from start to finish, with the trick hand-jam crux not being so bad for me... But I found other personal cruxes to make up for it. Unique,

 
Tue 4th Feb 2014 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall
23 Chase the Lady Sport 14m, 5 Very Good
2nd shot. This felt like a cruxy 23-slab to me. With a good sequence and some technique it didn't feel sandbagged in the style at all. I don't think the crux on this is any harder than the cruxes of Dragon's Egg or Alliterating Austrian Ostrich. Much harder for the short. A nice climb and pleasantly weird for The Glen, but there are better climbs here.

 
Sat 25th Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower)
24 GoGo Juice Sport 15m Very Good
2nd shot (not my day for onsights). I found the crux crimp section on this hideously hard until I found the right sequence for me, then it went easily second shot. Having said that, the rest of the climb (after the crux) is no giveaway, and you'll be working all the way to the anchors.

 
24 Snappy Dresser Sport 15m Very Good
2nd shot, the flash ended with a stupid fall at the second bolt. Came down and went straight back up without a rest. The start isn't as hard as it looks, and the REAL money (and amazingly strange climbing) is up the slab on polished, bullet-hard rock, miniscule edges and weird moves. My favourite route of the day. Burly start into awesome technicality.

 
24 Wet Paint Sport 16m, 6 Very Good
2nd shot. 1 fall on the onsight at the obvious crux sequence. It's amazing what a change from a sidepull to a gaston can do to the difficulty of a move (thanks Lloyd!) Great climbing, not as hard as it looks, and nicely sustained outside of the crux. The bolts are pleasantly spaced and the rock has cleaned up well. What's not to like?

 
Tue 21st Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall
24 Iona Sport 12m Very Good
3rd shot. Should have gone easily on second, but had a brain fart on the undercling section. 2 bouldery sections, surrounded by super-easy climbing. I didn't mind this one.

 
Sun 19th Jan 2014 - Cinderella Crag
White Knight Wall
24 White Knight Sport 30m Classic
Best route I climbed all day. Went down 3rd shot. I think this would be difficult to onsight. Great climbing with a dynamic, committing crux down low and a technical, crimpy crux further up. Quite long, unerringly interesting, and on great rock. Perhaps the crag classic?

 
Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
25 The Life of Riley Sport 35m Classic
2nd shot today. Stoked! Is this perhaps the best face climb I've ever done? The first shot I struggled with the bouldery bottom crux (and after falling, took my time to figure out the super-technical, strenuous middle-crux), so that when I jumped on for the second lap it was all executed perfectly, and I still felt really good after topping out. A true climbers climb in the vein of Marxism P1, with 2 distinct cruxes, but unrelenting technicality outside of them. Brilliant!

 
Sat 28th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave
22 24 A Most Profligate Sinner Sport 18m Very Good
2nd shot. Most of it is a great, tricky, varied 22 on perfect rock and with nicely spaced bolts... Except for the V3 boulder crux, that's probably more 24... But if you IGNORE that section, it's totally 22. I really enjoyed this one for the experience, but don't climb it for the grade.

 
25 George, King of the Jungle Sport 20m Very Good
An embarassing number of shots for the tick (4) because I just kept making stupid mistakes and falling off. Great climb, why does this get climbed so rarely? Not hard for a 25, but amazing climbing the whole way with really funky, varied movement. I did the last move to the ORIGINAL set of anchors, which isn't really all that hard, but quite exciting. I then had to back-jump it to clean which was exhilerating from the top.

 
Thu 26th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower)
24 Ten No Trumps Sport 16m, 7 Very Good
2nd shot, way too smashed for the flash. Soft at 24 WITH the beta, but probably quite a hard onsight as the crux is quite sequency and the best holds are not obvious. I found the main crux hard, but the second (reachy) crux wasn't so bad for me at my height. Quite interesting climbing, and unique compared to its neighbours.

 
Thu 26th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall
24 23 Out For A Duck Sport 15m Very Good
Second shot. 23 for the red-point. Fell off on the last move of the crux at the top (where everyone does). Great steep-ish face climbing to the crux, then some strenuous climbing to the anchors through the steepness (and via much glue). Definately not as bad as I've heard people say.

 
Sat 21st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge
23 The Bolt Bloke Sport 30m Very Good
2nd shot. The warm-up onsight attempted ended on the headwall when I couldn't clip a draw due to a quickdraw cockup. I really liked this climb. The start is fairly easy, but makes a good warmup through juggy steepness, and the top headwall is unlikely, technical climbing on amazing red/grey-streaked rock. If it weren't for the lack of lower-offs, this climb would be a classic.

 
Fri 13th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains The Heights Purgatory Wall
21 Spiderfest Sport 8m, 2 Average
Repeat. A one-sequence wonder. Felt about right at the grade, but only due to a single hold. Okay climbing.

 
Thu 5th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Underworld
24 Julius Caesar Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Great to finally get back on this for the tick 2 years after it became my first ever "project". Even better to know that my beta from back then was spot on even today. Still took me three shots though, in the coldest summer day ever (sleet???). 1st shot as a warmup I made it through the crux, but my hands froze and I fell off. 2nd was a back-clipped mess. 3rd shot it came together and felt easy. Still great climbing in the style, at the grade.

 
Sun 1st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
23 28 Marxism Sport 62m, 22 Classic
Pitch 1 only in the baking sun. Still took me 2 shots (today) to get it after I got lost below the crux on the first shot. Stunning climbing the whole way on great rock. This type of movement epitomises face climbing!

 
Sat 23rd Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Main Wall
24 Brain Drain Sport 20m, 11 Classic
2nd shot. Great sustained climbing in prime position. Two hard moves, but this is not a "cruxy" route, just a technical and pumpy one. Brilliant.

 
Sat 16th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower)
25 Paint God Sport 20m Classic
2nd shot. The first lap ended at the same point as Will Monks below: launching for a red-herring monster-tick mark, instead of to the crucial jug elsewhere. Super-rad roof moves, then interesting and mostly juggy climbing up the headwall. The top crux is challenging but not too bad. The final section (to the anchors) is a balancy, committing change of pace. Excitingly run out (I took a big fall on this one). Awesome.

 
Sat 16th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside
23 An Angel Walks By Sport 23m, 13 Very Good
2nd shot. I climbed like a bumbly on the first shot and totally muffed it up. A great climb that goes right to the top of the cliff, and climbs very differently to its neighbours at this crag. I found it quite stiff at the grade, but a great addition. Slopers and Underclings!

 
Thu 14th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Fashion Area
21 Queen Bitch Sport 15m Very Good
D'oh! I could have clipped the anchors on the onsight from the stemming stance, but decided to do one more move to the "jugs" above the anchors and fell off. Whoops! Most of the climb is funky grade 19 stemming, but the top moves are kind of tricky, and probably warrant the grade. Pretty good as a warm up, especially if you want a bit of trad with your sport.

 
Sat 9th Nov 2013 - Nowra
Babylon Areas Babylon Western Cliffline
22 Waramsin Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Fell off the bouldery start 3 times before I stuck it, and the climbing isn't over after that. Some challenging sequences all the way to the anchors, and wandery enough to keep you looking around. I'd call the start move 22, but the overall route a 21. Not bad at all.

 
Fri 8th Nov 2013 - Nowra
Thompson's Point Betty Blue Area
23 Still Life Sport 10m, 4 Very Good
2nd shot. A footer slipped near the top on the onsight. Went quite easily on the next lap. Didn't feel too hard, but is quite enjoyable for such a short route. Slopey, polished funkiness.

 
Sat 12th Oct 2013 - Scarface Buttress
20 Cuckoo Dove Crack Trad 15m Very Good
Stellar thin crack. Overhangs by 2m, though you wouldn't realise it to look at it. My onsight ended at the super-tricky crux (the last hard move), though I blame warm-up flash pump and 1 million degree heat as contributing factors. Great locks on good rock, with a tricky crux sequence that MIGHT be a sandbag at 20, but went quite easily 2nd shot. Loved it.

 
Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Catch the Wind Area
22 23 Eat. Sleep. Climb. Repeat Sport 30m Very Good
Took me an embarassing number of attempts for the tick (3), but I'm glad I got it. A tough 7m cruxy section on small, holds (sidepulls!) on a slightly steep orange face gets you started, with easier pleasant climbing to the top. 22 in the same way that Chase the Lady is 23, right JengA? A very good addition.

 
Tue 27th Aug 2013 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall
23 On the Wagon Sport 22m Very Good
2nd shot. It shouldn't have taken me 2 shots, but I guess I'm just crap. After the first shot I came back down, untied, pulled rope, and went straight back up and walked up the climb easily. Probably soft at the grade, but definately harder if you're short. 2 distinctly cruxy sections in very differing styles, with an easy 19ish top half. I like this climb, I think it's probably under-rated.

 
Sun 11th Aug 2013 - Mt Gibraltar
Main Wall
20 the Italian Route Sport 20m Very Good
Leith took a hammer to the crap rock on this earlier in the day, and I'm glad to say my doubts about whether this would be climb-able with so many holds smashed off were proven very wrong. This is NOW actually a really enjoyable friction slab, with the rock that is left feeling very solid (will be great with some rain to wash off the rock-dust). Probably in the vein of a Tarana 17/18 (my only consistent comparison to this style of climbing).

 
23 Sluj Gulpa Sport 60m, 14 Classic
3rd pitch only, 1st shot today. After finishing up the Slow Twitch Extension (25), I rapped back to the hanging belay at the start of P3, and cruised it with John the Kiwi belaying (and his draws already on the route). Bloody brilliant climbing, and I'm stoked that I felt so-strong on it (after having climbed 3 x 25ish routes back to back). One of the best 23s out there.

 
Sun 4th Aug 2013 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
24 San Pornando Sport 38m, 16 Very Good
2nd shot. Happy with this tick, 42m is a long way. I'd heard this hadn't been onsighted, so I gave it everything (with no chalk or wear on the holds, and only the bolts to guide my wandery way) but couldn't get through all the tricky sequences to send. A tad sandy, a bit brittle, a bit old-school. But a truly awesome route IN THE STYLE. If this was 2-pitches, I wouldn't bother. But 1 x 42m pitch is inspiring. A few 23-ish moves, with sustained climbing but separated by good jugs to rest on.

 
Sun 21st Jul 2013 - The Cathedral
Main Crag
25 24 Expectorant Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Hmmm, I thought that this was about 23? A bit of a one-sequence wonder with tenuous climbing through a total absense of positivity (or anything resembling holds). I fell off on the onsight a half-metre from the victory jug. Cruised it second shot in the fading light. Good, but not on the same level as its neighbours.

 
Sat 20th Jul 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area
22 On Edge Mixed trad 28m, 5 Classic
1st shot today, 3rd shot total over a few years. Felt easy-ish (vaguely remembering the moves), but still tricky, and no giveaway at the grade, with 3 distinctly hard sequences. A true classic in the style, and a worthy onsight for any climber to aspire too. Committing!

 
Sat 20th Jul 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area
23 Café Debris Trad 20m Very Good
2nd shot. Very onsightable, I merely overlooked an obvious hold. Not cruxy, merely sustained and reachy funkiness. Only at the grade if you stick religiously to the left side of the arete, and soft if you're tall. Steeper than it looks. An unsung gem.

 
22 S.S.C.C.3 Sport 33m Very Good
2nd shot today. Though I had it first shot, but foot slipped while on the good handholds at the end. Quite tricky and slippery, demanding faith in your rubber.

 
Sun 14th Jul 2013 - Nowra
The Grotto Cliffline The Grotto Proper
23 Amazon Queens In the Avocado Jungles Of Death Sport 20m Very Good
2nd shot. Not my day for onsights. On my first attempt, I fell at the last bolt, on good holds after all the hard climbing waas over with a silly foot slip. The second shot it went easily. Great climbing, and not too hard except for the crux sequence on the Direct version. Just genuinely enjoyable thinness all the way.

 
21 Bedtime Teddy Sport 8m Good
2nd shot. On the first, feet popped on the crux hold and I couldn't hold the cut loose. Went easily next go. A one move wonder surrounded by easy jugging. Like Spinning Blades, kind of a novelty route, really.

 

Showing 401 - 500 out of 601 ascents.

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