Excellent splitter offwidth into a wider layback. We tried it a couple of weeks ago but had no idea how to do hand/fist stacks nor knee locks, nor did we have gear big enough to make the wide second half a sane prospect.
This time, after reading the 'hand/fistoffwidth' section of Peter Whittaker's 'Crack Climbing', having bought back my two Valley Giants (VG) I'd previously sold, plus judicious taping of hands and left knee I was set and got it first go. Gear is big to humungous - #4, 2 x #5, #6, VG#9 and VG#12! A 240cm sling is also handy to loop the large block 3/4 way up.
As granite goes, this is smooth sided and an excellent climb to learn offwidthing on. A top rope using a second rope to get the anchor over the edge can easily be setup using the ring bolts above 'Black Satin Lingerie'. The walk in is about 40 minutes.
Super line and climbing with 2min access. Fun in the winter sun out of the wind, flocks of yellow tailed black cockatoo's, and the view from the top of the boulder in the late afternoon is sensational. The climbs at Pierces Creek really should be more popular than they are as they are total class!
Excellent climbing! Used a horizontal knee bar with my right leg across to the left arete below the fingers section to make the crux sequence less sketchy. While lowering off I tested how hard I could use the knee bar - it's possible to take both hands off but I reckon you'd want to use a knee bar pad if you were serious about a no hand rest!
We accidentally took the double length sling from the top anchor when abseiling off - it's under a rock at the base of the route.
Still a great climb. After all the offwidthing we've been doing I found a knee lock 3/4 way up which provided a great no handsrest...the top thinner crack section is so much easier when not pumped stupid!
Bit greasy feeling. Watched someone catch a marlin off the Torpedo Tubes while belaying which was cool. Amazing to see the big fish do runs and leaps out of the water!
