Routes in Australia for selected grade

Sit start. Right hand on slopey lichen rain just above overhang. Left hand on crimp 30cn diagonally up and left. Feet in break. Move straight up on crimps then mantle. Do not traverse left into jug of Ant Man. Beware that 4th hold is flexing. Likely needs to break then send with what remains. Grade likely to end up around V5 or V6, but would be higher or lower depending on how things play out.

A great problem going straight up the highest part of the boulder. The crux is potentially the last move before topping out. All cleaned ready to go.

Start in the same spot as Kids These Days Don't Like Westerns and head for the highest point on the boulder. Thin tricky looking section about half way.

Sit start from rocky shelf hands on side pulls, bump up to the rail and navigate your way onto and up the hanging slab. Continue down the slabby ramp to an awkward low traverse into Arboreal for a V6 tick.

1. Two options for this pitch.

   30m 23

   From the belay traverse L to the big spike, from here head up and then back R to the belay.

   25m 23

   From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above.

2. 15m 17 An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. One bolt and gear.

3. 25m 22 Spicy moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #2 Camalot for between 1st and 2nd bolt.

4. Two options for this pitch.

   20m 20

   From the belay traverse up and L to the corner, clipping two bolts, follow this on mixed gear and exit R at the top to the belay. Wires and small cams are useful in the corner. Gear up to #0.5 Camalot

   20m 26

   The right hand line heading direct to the belay. Awesome rock, with bouldery moves near the top. Could be harder! (fully bolted)

5. 30m 23 From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux.

On the opposite side of the boulder to "Captain Kid" there is a small overhang with potential.

An extension for both Feckless and Razor. once you reach the top of either Feckless or Razor continue to climb up and over steep bulges before topping out. Is high so bring lots of pads. The grade is an estimate.

Start using the pocket just above the lip of the cave and feet on the back wall, climb over the bulge into crimps.

Start matched on the obvious undercling in the dank cavelet. Burly move up to good jams at lip and turn the corner. Will need to build a landing or have moist pads to send. Probably quite hard

Stand start on the slab, Shoulder into slopey feature in the steep, technical layback moves leads to an outrageous dyno move. Continue trending right to top for Earth Boy Variant. Will be easier the taller you are.

BIG CRACK IS OUT. AS IS THE TOP EDGE OF THE SLAB.

Sit start has been done but felt awkward. If you do feel so inclined, a tricky sit start with crimps and feet on ramp to the right will add a grade and some spice.

Stand start with one or both hands on jug on Straining Rail. Finish as per that problem A few variants all in the V4 range. V5 if extended left via the Hull.

Straight up the middle of the middle face of the boulder.

The overhanging part of this boulder has a seam running all the way round it, unsure on stability/safety.

Good lowball crouch/sit-start and a long traverse.

Climb the hand crack to the undercling head left, then straight up to top on features. This is a guess, it looks like it should go, just needs a light scrub. Most likely been done already.

lots of different eliminate problems can be done on this face staring from either the central or right starting position. A good one involves eliminating the high right hand pocket from the problem which forces some cool moves.

On the lower tier below the roof boulder are some good features for warming up. Problems from V0-V5ish. About 6 or 7 problems from memory...

Open project. It's a hard start without the tree. Decent crimps in the middle to the razor sharp crux crimps at the top. Top out with slopers then a mantle to DRB. Can easily set up a top rope.

A mostly trad route up a series of corners (some cracked, some fused). Bring your A Grade stemming ability for the crux pitch. Rack - wires, singles of #0.3-0.5 camalots & doubles of #0.75-#4. Rock quality on this route is big grain and sometimes dirty - take care. All belays are bolted. Approach - rap anchors are located halfway along the crawl section with the fixed rope. Either fix a 70m rope, and rap down to top of pitch 1 and then double rope 30m to ground - or fix a 100m rap line. The route starts left (looking out) of where the rap ropes touches down.

1. 30m (19) Short handcrack to grasstree, then step left into fused corner (bolt). Up corner (fiddly gear) to ledge. Finish up spooky but spectacular layback crack to novelty belay on "boot flake" ledge.

2. 25m (23 to 25) Left off ledge (medium cams in breaks) to bolted face & techy fused corner. Save a #1 & 2 Camalot for the top. Full hanging belay on bolts. Leave the rest of the rack for the second to lug up. The grade of the crux on this pitch is proving quite divisive (hence the route name).

3. 25m (21) 3 bolts up face to the right of corner (bird poo marks the way!) then swing right into blind trad protected corner that leads to tiny ledge belay.

4. 30m (21) Stem up a few moves to cam break - then traverse right onto orange face and up to small roof crack. Over this (burly!) then up long dirty wide crack to top. Don't place all your big gear down low - you will want it high up!

A good slightly runout adventure up a long wall that starts up Pure Spirit's corner then straight up bolted wall above. The print guidebook says this is a sport route - it is not. Bring a big cam for the start (#5 camalot - and a handful of finger/fist cams for wall section leading up to the very high first bolt). The grade 25 crux is at the 6th bolt - but can be easily avoided at grade 23 by climbing 1m right of the bolt.

Line up right side of slab. Start over ankle breaking rock up faint groove to join edges that increase in size with height.

Technical smearing, padding and slabbing at its best. Very sequency with every move harder than previous.

Climb the fantastic overhung arc up the slab. Just enough holds to be climbable. Serious unprotected climbing at an unreasonable height. One of the best lines in Sydney.

Take the direct line of 'Go North Young Thang' and avoid the left ledge above the slab by clipping the lower traverse bolt before heading up on the thin pockets and crimps. Looks like it will be a great line, but a bit contrived.

This steep little number climbs out of the cave about 6m left of the start of Crossing The Rubicon. Powerful start to an awkward rest. Then a technical traverse to the lip. Has fixed quickdraws on the route, but no loweroff on the anchors. Easiest to touch the anchors then jump!

Crux-less, sustained climbing. Start as for SQ for first 4 bolts then trend left to link in to DBP.

Start up Urban Ethics then branch left into Star Wars. The more common way of doing Star Wars since the rockfall

Impressive steep slab face thing. We were soooo close but no FA yet due to crumbling holds. You are welcome to try. Starts the same as Dumb Idea on you as far as i can remember. Easier if you hold your breath and have the fingers and poise of a praying mantis.

Not a bad little 1 1/4" chimney, a very hard to jam size that required an extensive tape job on the arse to protect iti from abrasion. This crack is made for 1 1/2" friends and is a bad fit for twos so gather up as many as you can and suck on it.

(1) The well defined crack to the right of AS. The chossy stuff at the top is avoided by easy climbing in the left groove.

'Think of a gross name Chunder?' - 'Fuckbars, mate.' Another absolute classic of the area, not too hard but not real easy. It has plenty of scope for fighting with the pro and for making quick progress while doing so.

(1) The crack and groove twenty metres right of RMIV. Up the crack thin laybacking to start then jamming, the crux is getting into the jam crack where good progress can be made to the ledge on the left.

24 if you do the contrived start out right. May be slightly easier if tall or inclined to wander. Line of RBs 2m right of VVV. Clip first RB from block then return to ground to start. Nice boulder problem then grey streak direct (thin between 3rd and 4th bolts). From 4th RB diagonally right to finish as for TFTP to new double UB lower off.

Wonderfully sustained. Start at two shallow cracks in the center of the wall, with a BR at arms stretch. Good climbing past 3 FH to finish up large crack. DBB

24X Crux is high, and there are no bolts...

Inch Worm 7m V3 Climbs the slab R of Offspring. Committing. B Aikman 27/02/05

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/shark-rock-quarry-2/

Sit start on edge on L side of face. Move up and across with a wide span into R arete. Up arete on sidepulls and crimp to a slopey finish.

Cameron Whycherley

Squat start on good jug flake on right end of face. Traverse left along the crack on slopey underclings, before heading up in middle of face.

Sit start fridge feature, then trend right https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n48nXsBcwQ&feature=youtu.be

Stand start on left arete and crimp on right arete (around same level) . Compressioney!! There is a version that starts with the left hand on the crimp on the face but it adds about 2 grades.

Careful not to dab your back as you top out

Sit start and up with good holds under the roof. Located on the back side of the 'Shit Cunt' Boulder.

Sit start in the obvious slot. up the face to the breaks and trend slightly left to top out.

Up the hanging rib and top out left.

Purple holds

Standing start. Up wall on side pulls and layaways to a pinch at 5m, then 'hero' jugs to the top. Fun! Spooky.

Start deep underneath and follow the nice holds up.

Start as per Lanky Submarine but traverse the whole boulder and finish up Coal-Powered Submarine.

Ground ledge and lip of boulder are out.

Sit start to Strawberry Pigs, sit start as for Roush Hour

Stand start the Arete left of bench seat. Quite a bit of history as this was reportedly FA'd by Henry Barber in 1975

Jump start to the good crimp rail at around 2 and a half metres up. Move straight up without using the large ledge on your left. Eliminate but good problem!

Sitstart compression between left 2 aretes. Precise moves up and left to top-out

Sit start crack with LH crimp

5 meter tall thin finger and tips layback on a smooth wall, with a nice thistle landing.

A nice warm up. shouldery move to flake, match the lip, continue rightwards to the top.

The first climb you'll encounter in the cave. Hang start on block with letters BT-GM. With aid of kneebars and toehooks traverse right on holds at lip until easily up scoop. Top out by grabbing tuffs of grass or be sensible and downclimb.

SDS. Sitstart off the block, and climb the thin face to the left of the overhanging crack

Sit Start on juggy flake left of main rail. Make a move right via a pinch to a decent crimp just left of rail. Continue right to the rail and follow it right to Sky Blue's beginning and top out up crack.

Sit start with left hand on under-cling and right hand on wide sloper edge. Compress your way up the arete and top out. Can be topped out either on the right or the left.

Stand Start on good LH side pull around the arete and RH on smaller sidepull on the face. Head up arete to top out via a small crimp rail on the top of the boulder.

The arete on the North Western point of the boulder. Stand start with the glorious side pull jug on the arete and whatever you can find for your left hand. Rock up, pray hard for sticky shoes and follow the thin seam to the top.

Sit start under roof at the back, traverse out left along crack/lip and mantle up and out to finish in the same spot as MK Warm Up

Stand start on rail as for Slap Chasm, but instead make a hard move left to sidepull and exit out through large crack

Either up crack attack and bust right into power undercling and up or straight up into power undercling via jump or hard moves. Still needs to be rectified with Vaughn

Slab climb. Good feet for the start, the crux is up high - stick those feet.

Arete LHS.

Tall featured arête between trees. Classic.

R of the tree starting low off the slopey crimps.

Up just R of the arête on good sidepulls. A little scary.

Alternative start to "Pull Hard". Start just to th left with left-hand sidepull.

Variant of “Snorkel”. Pull left onto face.

Face of boulder only. See also “Face and Arete Variant”.

On hill side of boulder. Sit start with two underclings halfway in roof. Work to quarts vein rail, then to far left edge and jug feature just beyond. Gain lip and topout (can also traverse left on lip and then topout).

Sharp rock. Tape up and brush start holds. Some glass in further than start position to be mindful of.

Same as for SD except that the right wall is IN for feet/hands.

Arete just right of Gecko graffiti. Slopey compression after small edges. Tops after high dark pinch. Harder starting off right edges and traversing into arete.

Start on right side of good rail, big moves to the right and up. Scary top section. Once on top of the ledge, traverse right and downclimb. Located on the left river side.

Start standing on far left arete then traverse into blank appearing slab. Use sequence of thin holds to get into good edges and topout through middle right of boulder. Footwork and hand-eye coordination is key.

These boulders are located above Flume and Uke.

Sit start just to the R of the middle of the face on trio of holds, just L of the mini roof. Traverse L and low along good holds and top out at L arête.

Crouch start L end of river side face. Traverse R, following the beautiful sloped lip around the corner and topping out above the steeper slab.

Cameron Whycherley Jared Tyerman and Farid Borbar

Sit start left under-cling-catch right sidepull. Follow right into layoff features, then trend up through balancy section to lip.

Sit start, moving directly up from the obvious good edge, through the prominent boomerang shaped feature, to top out on crimps over the lip.

Sit start at base of arete on blocky features, up through small slopey edges and better features up high.

Stand start on with obvious ledges. Move up to good edges and into high undercling. Possibly a little height dependent

Extension to Zin's Traverse, starting matched from the arete. Adds a few kinda burly moves. Fun and satisfying traverse.

To the right of “Chilli Omlette”. Stand start with LH on sidepull sloper in the cheesy, water runnel, RH on non-existent “diced bacon” ripple, utilising the obvious “saucy” ledge for feet. Break a slice off, moving up and over the bulge to a gourmet top.

Find purchase on the thin face, use a pebble for your left and up you go

Start matched on good jug. Traverse left without using the lip or anything above it. Top out as for Mike's Mischief.

Sit start on the right. Avoid climbing over the lip and snatch the left side when you get the chance before topping out.

Start with a hand in each of the good cracks, working upwards on good crimps and dodgy feet to an easy mantle top out.

starting on your select choice of crimps and feet on the right corner of the slabby thingo aim true for the "jug" hold

Crouch start right hand good pinch left hand higher crimp using good feet underneath face. Moving slightly left to establish for powerful moves directly up through odd crimps, slopey break, dish crimps and devil horn jugs to the very pinnacle of the boulder resting above, ascending with highly immoral behaviour.

Spoiler alert Beta video of first ascent for those that want the assistance. Good way to see starting position. https://youtu.be/I0RGlU686WA

Stand start with slopey holds and move up.

Sit start wide compression, up the slab.

Sit start opposing side pulls, left hand is low.

Sit start 1.5 metres left of Blockaholic on protruding corner block below vertical seem. Work your way out left on slopey jugs to vertical wall then crank up on pockets and crimps. Finish on big right hand pocket about in line with Blockaholic's finishing hold.

B9 in Dazza's guide. Originally finished by traversing to the right.

Traverse both ways. Follow the crack seam under the rooflet. Graded 3 in the original guide. Current V grade is interperated.

Start as for It's So Dirty Low Sit and traverse across the lip. Mantle left of Mega Mantle.

Early mantle on Mega Mantle is a bit easier but sweet.