Ascents in North America as trad by David Gibbs having Distinct route

Lower bolted section went far more smoothly than I expected.

Since I'd already climbed Relampago, instead of finishing up the crack, I finished directly up. Probably a 5.9 finish.

Went smoother than I expected. I should lead this next time.

Thin at the start and the gear is a bit PG.

The 5.6 grad on this was a mite mad -- definitely harder and more committing than that. Still a tough and heady lead -- but a couple bolts in the dihedral where I sling the tree (twice) would be a good improvement.

Some interesting stuff, but a lot of dirt part just past the opening section -- might turn into an interesting route if cleaned up.

"Warm up"

Borrowed and place a #6 on this. But, probably ok with a #4, then smaller gear at the back of the ledge, rather than the #6 in the wide crack.

Good gear and good climbing.

Went clean unexpectedly easily on TR, despite the initial layback section being a bit wet. I keep thinking about leading it, then thinking again.

Definitely easier than Rupert or Lavender.

Was climbing Peggy, but climbed this in sections with re-directs and lowers-in to figure out how it went, and how hard. I think, with a couple re-directs, this could be a fun top-rope off the Peggy anchors. Leading it... hm... after a couple more rehearsals, I think.

I remembered how to do the crux from previous try, so it went pretty well. A good climb.

A good climb with some very interesting moves. Both near the start, and along the upper finger crack. Gear looked good, and I think I should be able to lead this one.

Fell off right at the top -- which is far better than I expected this to go.

This is an old-school Gatineau "5.8". Probably more like 5.10.

I took several falls on this one. I found it harder than "Johnny Rock", but buddy said it was easier. We agreed that "Johnny Rock" was more technical, but this one more physical (strength based).

Ok gear, but often placed from poor stance.

Unlike many of the other climbs in the area, this doesn't take particularly good gear.

Generally good protection, a lot of variety in the problems, and some outstanding views. I led pitch 1 (5.7 variant), which goes well with good protection. I sent Phil up pitch 2 & 3 to link them. He got the traverse to belay 2, and the crack up to the roof fine, but backed down from the traverse under the roof. I took over, finished the traverse to a belay on a platform on the arete. Pitch 4 goes hard right off the platform, on small nuts, but, the hard bit is fairly short.

Lead P1, followed P2.

Fell, again, in the crux section from bolt 1 through 2 to the mantle. I'm pretty sure the moves in that section are not 5.8.

Mostly on Simon's gear, though I did add one piece. Gear was good, and good stance for placing it, so could easily have place it myself.

Just an absolutely excellent climb. Great gear throughout, many interesting problems, but, assuming you have the climbing vocabulary, never harder than 5.8.

Good climbing, but really hard for5.8, and looks like the gear would be tricky to place, too.

If the start weren't wet, this would be a lovely climb. Gear looks a bit tricky, though.

Lovely, well-protected crack; wide at times -- but I found I could usually get a good jam deeper in the crack where it was narrower.

Start was soaking wet and slimy, other bits were wet in the crack, so we decided to TR it.

Got the red point on my 2nd lead attempt. No particular move is, really, harder than 5.7 or so, but it is continuously sustained at that level for most of the climb, and far harder if you're not comfortable with crack techniques.

A very enjoyable route with generally good protection.

The MdA book only gives it three stars for protection, from climbing it, I would say this is more because of a lack of stance for placing gear, rather than a lack of protection opportunities.

A nice 5.8 warm-up. Gear was good. All nuts and tri-cams.

A nice bolted bit, up into a wonderful crack. Runs long, but climbing less interesting for last 15m or so.

Some quite burly moves on the lay-back around the edge of the scale, but everything was there, and generally what needed to be done was obvious. Fun, but obvious. Still, a hard lead for a 5.8.