Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 15th Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Backstreet Boyce - with Match | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Sun 9th Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | ||||||
30 | ★★ Simmering | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back in 2019 I came a hairs breadth from freeing this for the First Ascent after sieging it for an entire season. A year later Nigel did the FFA, and since then I've had this in the back of my mind as an "obvious project to return to for a gr30 slab I know I can do".
Trying it today, I did all the moves "okay" (certainly better than my first days of trying it back in 2019) though it would still need a tonne of effort to put it all together. But you know what I realised? I just really don't enjoy this style of razor-blade crimping much anymore, and I'm not so desperate to chase my first gr30 to suffer it for the sake of the grade. Honestly, I'd rather climb something steep (though it suits me less) and have more fun. This is a proper slab/face test piece, and substantially harder than it looks from below. If you're still vibing that style, this is definitely your cup of tea. Now, after 18 years of climbing, I know it's not mine anymore. |
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Sunset Buttress | ||||||
24/25 ~25 | ★★ Catch and Kill - with Heath Black | 37m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun end of day attempt in the pouring rain... Felt like I was climbing well... and then I found the crux!
Took a few biiiiiiig falls on the crux undercling move. When I stuck it (replete with flying drive-by) I felt like a boss! Short (if climbed without linking into the upper pitch) but great rock, and very strange (engaging) moves. I'm happy to call this one 25 with my physiology. |
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Millionaire's Row | ||||||
24 | ★★ Calcified Mind - with Heath Black | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bah, not winning Fell off a key hold well-above the cruxy start that for some reason was covered in sand. Its okay, future ascensionists, I've cleaned it up for you now
The start is hard, but super rad when you figure it out. The roof is strangely easy, given its absurdity, and the climbing above is relatively cruisy. Totally worth your time! |
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Sunset Buttress | ||||||
25 ~26 | ★★★ Highdrogen Flare - with Heath Black | 37m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing, sustained, technical face climbing, and bloody hard for the grade! It took me quite a bit to sort the two main cruxes (I had to approach them very differently from the FA), and I took a huge whip from the very top going for a big link attempt. Beautiful rock, wild position, unique movement.
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Millionaire's Row | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Old Punks Must Die - with Heath Black | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A bit more of a gnarly warmup than I was expecting. I pumped out on the last moves of the opening roof crux, but otherwise had no trouble with this route.
The start and roof boulder is great rock and wild moves, and the headwall is classy face climbing. Totally worthwhile addition. |
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
27 | ★ Nadir - with Match | 36m | ★ Good | |||
Finally decided to suss this route to the top. The moves to gain and turn the lip are mega, and the grey-rock face climbing above involves some complex and gripping sequences for a first ground-up lap.
Probably the most annoying part for me, is having to lap the lower 24 section of this route to get to the hard bit |
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27 | ★★ Kaizen - with Match | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat placing draws to the roof (easy 25 to here) then I explored the upper section. The move to turn the lip is very much the 27 bit, but the section above it is probably another 25 in its own right (albeit with good stances before the hard climbing). The upper section is excitingly runout when placing draws, in classic Emil style
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Hung on a Tree | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back-to-back-to-back thinness on positive edges. The technical finale is the best bit. No time for another shot.
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Bare Rock | ||||||
New Horizons | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★★ Captain Awesome | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another stacked one. The opening boulder gave me a fair bit of grief initially. I went through it twice, only to bungle easier moves higher up. Complex face climbing.
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Three O'Clock Hill | ||||||
23 | ★★ Rock Steady | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 shots. Couldn't keep it together at the mid-point crux on either lap. A stacked upper half.
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Susie now Settled | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Not clean. Great to have something new to do (all on gear) when you've done everything else here, but it is really contrived (and kinda hard to decide what exactly is "off route").
Regardless, it has some rad, powerful moves. With my busted wrist, there was a single move I couldn't do today, but otherwise it seemed "achievable"... maybe. |
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall | ||||||
25 R | ★★★ Tjuringa | 50m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 short early morning sessions. I really liked this, but there was a single move I never did -Maybe I need crisp conditions to use the slopiest sloper that ever slopered? Beautiful, inspiring rock, and more sustained than I expected for a slab
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Headlamp EOD attempt. Great! After the inconsequential start, this is rad and engaging all the way to the topout
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Mind Arthritis - with Simmo | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Exploratory lap. Mega climbing with a bouldery crimp crux. Not particularly scary -though all the bolts are in the wrong spot, its fine once the draws are on. I could probably do this this trip, but I think id rather get on more Arapilean-esque routes.
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Girls on Bikes | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a monster whip falling off the upper crux on my onsight-attempt. Then had a few more less dramatic falls before I pieced it together. A briefly thin and reachy sequence, but otherwise not tooooo hideous.
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Diamond Bay Northern Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Ordeal by Fur - with Tom Collins | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Almost a classic, but that its essentially about gr24 with a v6+ crux. Night time attempt, 2 shots, awesome second lap but still couldn't link that crux, unfortunately. The rest of the route is great, though.
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
25 | ★★ Beaver Shot - with Match | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One day I'll tick this
Super fun start and finish, but I find the crux rather nails. An easy way of making this less cruxy (at the same grade) is to traverse left around the little crux boulder, since you end up back on-line by the next bolt anyway. |
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Big Top | ||||||
30 | ★★ The Clumbsy Caterpillar - with Michael Moore | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one TRS lap. Very technical slabbing. More arete-y than I expected. Rock is a mixed bag of quality.
Did all the moves (with lots of falls) to the last bolt, and I think I could link this much on lead within a sesh or two... But I never made any upwards progress in the 1.5m from the last bolt to the anchor, and didn't really have an idea for how to do it at the grade. |
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27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Michael Moore | 12m | Average | |||
Just the one exploratory lap.
Some cool moves, but probably the most contrived bolted route I've ever been on, and hardly aesthetically inspiring. The rock is also rather soft (and probably not destined for long term survival). Only the start move gave me any real grief (that is; once I'd figured out how I'd attack the upper crux). If I came back, and can sort the start, I think I could do this next visit |
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
The Grotto Cliffline P.C. | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Turn Your Eyes Insane — 2 attempts - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | 16m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 attempts. Super rad.
Unfortunately, I couldn't touch the initial boulder move (never stuck it once) but linking from the 2nd bolt to the top was no real trouble. Great little sustained number, with lots of body tension trickery on some proper slopers. A joy to climb. |
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27 ~28 | ★★★ Hard Candy - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing climbing.
Most of the route gave me no real trouble (the moves around and past the upper roof to the last bolt are awesome!) but the only way I could do the top crux is via the undercling mono (I couldn't use the sharp crimp) and -though I could do it- it just felt dangerously tweaky without some targeted training. One to come back for (with some preparation ) |
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Mon 3rd Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Bärenschluchtwände Bärenschluchtwände | ||||||
9+/10- ~10- | ★★★ Tanz der Arroganz - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | ★★ Very Good | ||||
3 days of effort. Struggled with wet sections, but also managed some proud links. The roof boulder and top section in a push was particularly memorable.
I never managed a single move in the mid-height crux, despite lots of effort and numerous different sequences. Id love to hear from someone who has done it since the crimper broke off? I was surprised how much glue was holding this classic together (read: tubes and tubes and tubes of it)... makes me feel better about Blue Mountains route development. |
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9 ~9+ | ★★★ Rauchende Bolts - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
4 laps. Didn't have the time to try and send this bold puppy on lead, but was hoping to manage the clean top rope. Alas, no dice... managed to get it down to two halves, but this late in the trip, I didnt have the endurance to put it together.
After leaving the slab and campusing the rail, it's all on to the top, with some of the raddest pocket moves I did this trip. 1-pad mono steep cranking... awwww yeah! |
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Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Massone Settore B | ||||||
7b | ★★ Marlene - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 shots. This is where the wheels fell off for me on this trip -I had a full meltdown here. I could do all the moves on my first attempt, and thought I had a 60% chance of sending, only to struggle in the heat, full sun, and 2 weeks of non-stop climbing.
This is a great route, of two very different halves, but equally brilliant. The bottom crux reminds me of hard Taipan face climbing. |
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7a ~7b | ★★ Greta - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 shots. Mega tufa and pocket climbing, but a monster sandbag at the grade, even for massone. The crux alone (though brilliant) is a 7a+ sequence in isolation.
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Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Terlago | ||||||
Settore A | ||||||
6c+ ~7a+ | ★★ Enrico la talpa - with Simmo | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing climbing up an incipient crack feature on perfect rock, but brutally hard at the grade. The final boulder problem alone is probably V4ish? On my 2nd shot, I made it to the anchors, but was too pumped to clip!
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Thu 23rd Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Ringlerwand Bella | ||||||
9 | ★★ Civil War - with Simmo | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Despite a lot of effort, I never managed to figure out the first few moves to the good pocket (just below the first bolt), though twice I went from that hold to the anchor clean. A brutal start, leading to more moderate steepness.
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Thu 23rd Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Bärenschluchtwände Bärenschluchtwände | ||||||
9 | ★★★ Herkules - with Simmo | 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mega mega mega roof pocket jugging through space. None of the moves gave me too much grief, and this could even be achievable while on this trip... but at the moment, its just too damn wet. Come on sun, do your stuff!
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9- | ★★ Roter Baron - with Simmo | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Only time for the one shot. The entire crux headwall was heaps of pockety fun, but there was still half a move I didn't get sorted. Keen to come back, though.
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Mon 20th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Kühlochfels Amberger Turm & Wand | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Die Insel - with Simmo | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
EOD toprope inspection lap. Powerful start, then gnarly and very runout technical arete climbing. One move I didn't sort in the limited time I had on this.
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8 | ★★★ Reif für die Insel - with Simmo | 17m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one shot. Frustratingly wet and cold today meant frozen fingers, and not much fun climbing this. Seems like it would be brilliant in better conditions. My flash ended on the final moves to the anchor.
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Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
8 | ★★★ Saftpresse - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 shots. Came close, but a flapper-induced fall mid-clip put paid to the send. Struggling in the heat! Super awesome juggy steep pocket pulling.
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Sat 18th Feb 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
26 | ★★ Charlie Don't Surf - with Simmo, alyssa smirnov, Jared Anderson | 70m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Decided to try linking the Monteith Memorial Traverse (L-R 24) into P1 of this for a 50m enduro-monster (belayed from the cozy ledge). Turns out it's okay with some rope management, but quite the undertaking!
I found P1 of this very tough placing the draws, and absent chalk, though all of the moves went okay (ableit with a few exciting falls to piece them together). If I'm back here belaying people on Thin Line, I'll probably try for this linkup as an arbitrary challenge. |
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Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
28 | ★★ EIEIO - with Ben Jenga, Match | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one re-familiarisation lap (and to show Mitch some of my beta). Also surprisingly good.
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25 ~26 | ★ Gropertron — 2 attempts - with Ben Jenga, Match | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 shots. Surprisingly good -this thing seemed to have been untrafficked for months at the time of my attempt. Short but intense in the upper half. On my second shot, I fell off "fingering" the finishing jug. Probably 26, IMHO.
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Wed 25th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Sail Away Wall | ||||||
26 | ★ Fumble Factor - with Will Vidler | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one shot. My onsight attempt ended with my hand on the end-of-crux jug (but never really latching it) but then I never managed to do any better, even after hanging on the rope/working the move.
Great climbing on awesome rock, but super cruxy. |
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Wed 25th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass SSCC4 Area | ||||||
29 | ★★★ Utopia - with Will Vidler | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome! Way more interesting and arete-y than I expected. Kinda a bit scary, even. Just the one exploratory lap (with a lot of time spent piecing it together) but there was still one sequence near the top that I never really figured out. Totally my style, for sure!
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Adventure Park Ecstasy | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Halo | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
P2 only. Wow! Every bit 25 IMHO. Very sustained for the first half.
Sustained, technical, and demanding face climbing leads (eventually) to a No-hands rest, followed by some punchy steep climbing to finish. Cool! I fell off the low-crux, sorted it out, and came back down to try again... only to fall off it again. I'm going to use the excuse of the heat, and my own weariness by this time of the day Having said that, I fell off about 3 more times on the upper moves, so I was never going to get this one done straight-up |
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Thrustblock Area | ||||||
26 | ★★ I Can Appreciate That — 2 attempts - with Geoff Johnston-Hall | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2 attempts. I never quite managed a single move turning the rooflet, but the rest of it was fine after I'd properly sussed it. Seems like a move that would be easier if you're short (on a Blueys slab... crazy, right???).
Despite just being a "direct" on The Mind Boggles, this has a tonne of new and intriguing climbing, and is definitely worth your time. |
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Sat 24th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Disbelief Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief — 2 attempts - with Simmo, Rene Provis, Jacques Beaudoin | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 Attempts. On my 2nd I managed to get to the last 5m body-squeeze/offwidth section with a single rest, but never really managed to work out the last few metres. To me, with my physiology, it seemed like I was going to need to invert? But lacking more big gear, I was too intimidated to commit properly to it. I'll have to come back with bigger gear, and maybe a few more skills.
The rock is a mixed bag, but it's outweighed by the wildness of the climbing, which is varied, brutish, and intimidating. I used 7 x #4, 2 x #5 and 1 x #6 for the roof part of the crack. I could probably have done with another #6 at least, and perhaps something bigger (purely for the purpose of working the last part of the roof). |
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Fri 28th Oct 2022 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Mrs Troglodyte — 2 attempts - with Michael Moore, Jared Anderson | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 attempts.
Awesome, but demanding. Very varied climbing, and steep as hell up a beautiful prow feature. Dynamic and tension-y. Hard at the grade. I was pretty happy to get some mega links on my 2nd shot (linked to the crux throw), and to refine my beta for the following moves. I'd love to come back to this one, but I need to be prepared to leave my draws on it, because equipping it (and unequipping it) sucks. |
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
26 27 | ★★ Fucked on Cocaine - with Simmo | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 shots. I hated this on the first lap, but as I unlocked the beta, I came to appreciate it more and more.
Despite not being my style (essentially, two hard boulders separated by a rest), the rock is bullet, and the moves are pure. Though, the start point is kinda dumb. |
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Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
27 | ★★ The Syndicate (Open Project) | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 days of efforts, but I never had the power endurance to keep it together for the crux. Will probably be 28ish, I think, but I'm happy for someone else to score it. Probably easier if you're tall.
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Wed 21st Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath DG's | ||||||
27 26 | ★★ Angiotensin - with Luke Yerbury | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 shots. Came here today fairly optimistic of a send (or at least a good showing) only to struggle quite a bit with the final headwall. The start was definitely a bit damp, but the rest was fine despite the weather. Left my draws on it, though, as it's so radical it deserves some more efforts.
Still, even if I'm struggling with a high-gravity day, was radical to hold the ropes (and scream and shout) as Luke crushed the route on a super-unlikely 3rd lap of the day. |
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Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath DG's | ||||||
25 | ★★ Hornblower - with Michael Moore, Heath Black, Stephen Varney, David Dearnley | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Flashed to the anchor clipping hold, but couldn't clip the anchor despite hanging on it for ages. Was too frustrated to go up again.
Essentially, this is grade 24 to the clipping hold, or grade 26 to clip the anchor. Up to the clipping hold, this is a really fun route (thuggy, juggy, and steep!), but the nails anchor clip, and the fact it finishes in the middle of nowhere, is a bit dissappointing. |
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27 26 | ★★ Angiotensin - with Michael Moore, David Dearnley, Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 shots. The last EOD effort ended at the final bolt. This thing is all class. Sure, it's a bit sharp, but the line and the moves more than make up for it. The opening boulder is tough but funky, and the runout headwall finale is an appropriate bookend. I'll definitely be back.
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Sat 10th Sep 2022 - The Hide Away | ||||||
The Ghetto Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Ghetto Superstar - with Tom Collins | 23m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell off at the last bolt on my 3rd shot. The final few bolts were wet, and -frankly- I was pumped I kept out of the cave for the raddest (though contrived) send effort.
A proper classique roof, with bloody great rock. The infamous opening boulder isn't harder than V3, so don't be put off by it. |
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Sat 3rd Sep 2022 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Short Sharp Loud - with Stephen Varney | 8m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 more shots, both to the top boulder problem. It wasn't until the end of my 2nd lap, that I really put together the top sequence in a way that suits me. Hopefully next time.
Another really funky, fun route! But, damn that final boulder is gnarly. |
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Sat 20th Aug 2022 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
27 | ★★ Full Dole Cheque - with Tom Collins, Stephen Varney | 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 shots. A very strange, but really radical route, with a surprising amount of climbing in the first half.
I had a lot of trouble putting together a viable sequence for the traverse crux. When I finally sorted out a repeatable sequence, it felt boss ! |
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Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower | ||||||
27 25 | ★★★ Psycho Killer - with Heath Black | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some awesome, sustained climbing on great rock.
Unfortunately, a super key hold has snapped off between the 3rd and 4th bolt, making this move now grade 1 billion (I found a mcdougall around it, or you could simply traverse across from SCC higher up). The main slab section is gnarly and sustained, but freaking awesome. I never really figured out the move from the last bolt to the ledge (perhaps it traverses left to the arete?) I'd probably be willing to give it another go in the near future. |
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Hanging Rock Crayfish Creek | ||||||
25 |
★★ Human Cannonball
1
25
15m
2
25
30m
| 45m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Aaand the wheels fell off... tiiiired.
Pitch 1 was cool steep bouldering with funky knee-bar trickery, and the onsight went well... until it didn't... but I tried bloody hard - a funky cool little pitch. Pitch 2 is more bum-rock climbing on runout carrots, but quite bouldery and more sustained. I made it to the last of the hard face moves, but couldn't figure it out (even off the carrot) and couldn't aid past it... by this point my head-game was shot from the day, so I downclimbed and bailed. I used a 0.5 cam at the start of P2. With a 60cm runner on the anchor at the end of P1, there was no issue linking these pitches together. |
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Mon 13th Jun 2022 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★ Chic Chic Boom Chic - with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Geoff Johnston-Hall | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 shots (via left hand finale). Felt about 60% sure I'd stick it on the 3rd lap, but it was at that point where the wheels fell off. Awesome, powerful, dynamic roof climbing. Took me a bit to figure out the sequences. Will be back.
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Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer | ||||||
30 | ★★ Detache Mode - with Match | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 shots. Still haven't quite latched the dyno (getting closer, though), but the move immediately after is my crux. The rest of the route felt easier than a year ago, but still lots of work to do.
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Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
25 | ★★ Desiree - with Heath Black | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one EOD shot. The bolting is moderate death insanity, but the climbing is pretty cool technical face tic-tacing, marred by some snappy rock. Harder-end 25 for sure. Hopefully I get back before I forget the beta
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Wed 1st Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
27 | ★★ Armistice Direct - with Matt King | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one shot. Absolutely cruiiiiised the part shared with Armistice, but couldn't properly work out the single move to gain the razor-blade roof pocket. I "sort of" had a way of doing it, but was too scared to commit (for fear of severing a finger). Maybe there's a trick?
Fun steep jugging with much time foot-free, guarded by a single very hard move! |
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Sun 29th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Egg | ||||||
24 | ★★ Tornado - with Match | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Backlogging. I like this climb, but the bolting through the crux is rubbish (and a touch dangerous). More sustained and engaging than I thought.
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Wed 18th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★ The Kangaroolity of Women (Project Paul) - with Will Vidler, Michael Moore | 15m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I'm now at 2 full days of effort on this one, and have fallen off the last move a comical number of times. I don't actually think it's that hard, I'm just quite talented at falling off it.
A bit sharp through the roof-flake section, but otherwise this is a great steep adventure, with a mega classic roof boulder to gain the jug on the lip. With any luck, this should go down soon. |
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Sun 15th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★★ Mountain Ant - with Heath Black | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one attempt as a warmup. In my usual "post trip sucking" I couldn't actually do the crux move at all Having said that, it is a really cool route. Even rather wet today, it was fun,
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Tue 26th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island | ||||||
Cloudy Bay The Aviary | ||||||
23 | ★★ Desert Raven - with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 gnarly cruxes in differing styles separated by easier climbing. The upper crux got me, I'm afraid. Was a bit too frustrayed to give it another shot.
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25 | ★★★ Lodestone - with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Went for the unchalked, spoogey onsight, and managed to make it to the roof before falling. After that it was bolt to bolt. Happy with my effort and the fight at EOD, cause it is proper stemmy stem insecurity to the roof.
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Supernaut Face | ||||||
25 | ★ Heaven and Hell - with Jared Anderson | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gave it a mega onsight attempt, which ended high high high when I encountered too much moss on one of the final sequences. With a quick scrub it woulda been fine, but such is the nature of onsighting, I guess.
Despite appearances, this has a lot of independant, sustained technical climbing, which I thoroughly enjoyed. |
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Wed 9th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
27 | ★★ Chalk Chops - with Will Vidler, Luke Yerbury, Matt King, Michael Moore, Nathan Kenny | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one sussing lap. Much better than I expected, and quite sustained in the first half, with 3 distinct and varied cruxes. I imagine this is nails if you're short!
I found the final face crux (before the dawdly headwall) quite hard, but the other sections very manageable. I'll definitely come back to this. |
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Sat 8th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
26 25 | ★ Digitalicious - with Matt Pascoe | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 shots. Kinda got a bit schooled by this today -weird, because I've never had this much trouble on it in the past.
Could do the crux, just couldn't link it into the lower section, and above the crux was a cruise as always. Can I blame conditions? Maaaaaybe. Super bouldery roof turn. But still pretty rad. |
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Mon 3rd Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Waterfall Wall | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Intergalactic Holistic Space Traveller - with Will Vidler, Match, Luke Hef | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just the one shot. Really struggled with the mantle crux on this today -a move that hasn't given me too much trouble in past. Not sure what is going on with me
Anyway, it's a rad route regardless. Technical face climbing, and surprisingly pumpy. |
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Sat 1st Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Philosopher's Zone Extension | 29m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
2 shots. Got a bit schooled by this. I put together the sequence, but never really came close to linking it on the send burn. Essentially: a 5-move boulder-problem around a rooflet off a sitdown rest. Not my favourite route ever
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30 | ★★ Bankrolla | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one attempt, sussing the moves. There were two moves I didn't do, but the mid-traverse crux seemed the sort of move I'd never be capable of. Average rock, but radical moves for the most part.
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Wed 29th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
28 | ★★ EIEIO | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 shots. All the moves felt very doable today, though in the rubbish conditions it wasn't going to get send Hopefully I get back before I forget the beta.
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Sun 26th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
★★★ Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Martin Cankov | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
2 Redpoint burns. Worst conditions I've had here yet, and probably my worst laps on this in months. Quite frustrating. Slimed off at the worst point and took the scariest fall possible on this route. After that, I didn't have much psyche for another lap.
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Sun 26th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Disbelief Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) - with Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 x laps. The First was a long ordeal, trying to properly suss viable moves/sequences/gear/clipping. The second was to confirm what I learned from the previous lap. Thought I had it all figured out (though it would need a lot of effort still to send!) but on my 2nd lap there was a single move I couldn't repeat. Tired? Or just too hard? Who knows.
IT was rad tackling this knowing I'd need new beta -being the first of my physiology to undertake the challenge. My beta encompassed mono-fingerlocks, and 2-finger stacks through dead-horizontal roof. Painful as hell, but megar megar. Thanks heaps for letting me have a play, Jacques! |
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Sun 19th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall | ||||||
28 27 | ★★ Quack Attack | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Just one the lap. Brutally thin, and lots of very average rock. I think I'd probably have enjoyed this before the decent edge above the 3rd bolt broke off, but since its breakage this seems -to me- to be more suffering than fun. The steep bit is enjoyable enough.
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Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
★★★ Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Match, Nathan Kenny, Matt King, Michael Moore | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Day 4: 3 more shots, but apparently 30 degree weather isn't ideal for climbing the hardest you've climbed. Probably had my 2nd best effort so far, despite this.
Still haven't managed to link the entire upper section in one, though |
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
★★★ Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Gavin | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
3 more shots. No new highpoint, but made it through the crux of Life Without Meaning all 3 times (best ratio yet), and refined the moves on the Two Nobodies traverse.
Last week I thought I fell off from the top bolt on link cause I was tired at the end of a long day... Today I learned that I fell off because its hard to have much oomph for those final moves at the end of such intense climbing, regardless of how fit you're feeling. Linking that top move will be haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaard. |
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Sun 5th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave | ||||||
29 | ★★ It Takes a Lot to Laugh, It Takes a Train to Cry - with Stephen Varney | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 attempts. Couldn't sort the last few moves of the main crux, and not sure I'd ever be able to essentially. Essentially gains the 2 grades that earn it 29 in those few moves alone. Otherwise, linked most of the route on my 2nd lap. A really fun route, with wild steep climbing, and plenty of funky moves. The roof crack is hilariously fun, and the finale is thrilling. Shame its a bit beyond me, but I had fun.
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Sat 4th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
★★★ Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Match | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
3 more shots. On my last shot of the day, in spoogy conditions, I managed to link all the way to the last bolt before falling off... Took a 12m fall as a result, but damn it was awesome fun!
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Sun 28th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
★★★ Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Jared Anderson, Marty Doolan | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
2 shots. Refamiliarising with the top half of One Somebody, and sussing how this will go with rope drag and associated shenanigans.
Maybe the best pure resistance route of this grade in the Blueys? Unrelenting. |
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Sat 27th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Left | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Brute from the Balkans - with Jared Tyerman, Stephen Varney | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 shots, with some "okay" linkage on the second. Some cool climbing at about gr26, with a proper hard boulder problem (with 2 nails moves) near the tippy top. 2 particularly hard moves on the boulder earn this one the grade. Some wild positions, but lapping Boy from Oz would surely get old fast if I was projecting this.
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27 | ★★ Fuel My Fire - with Jared Tyerman, Stephen Varney | 12m | ★ Good | |||
One long investigatory lap. Essentially a very hard boulder (v5/6?) guarding gr24 climbing to the anchor. I never managed the big move to the jug rail at the start despite a fair bit of effort. Cool climbing, but sandy, disintegrating rock.
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Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
26 | ★★ Daphne - with Heath Black | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 shots. First was mostly bolt to bolt in the lower half, getting some chalk on it, and getting scared from all the runouts. As I got to the anchor, torrential rain blasted the route, but after waiting for it to dry I went up again.
2nd shot ended getting to the 3rd bolt (just hadn't worked the start enough), at the same time as hail and more torrential wind-backed rain returned. AFter that I was pretty stoked just to achieve mega linkage in such rubbish conditions. Cool moves, but might even be borderline gr27, with some shitty bolting, and rather snappy rock. |
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Sat 13th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Day 11: Just the one redpoint burn before bailing from the worst conditions I'e ever had. After all the rain the waterfall was pumping, but the 80kmph gusting winds were blowing said waterfall all over the route, and the belay.
On my one burn I powered through the crux like a boss, only to have an epic clipping at the end of the sideways runout due to clipping hold being proper wet. After this I went from below this sequence to the anchor. I just seriously need a bit of luck out here. |
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Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Will Vidler | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Day 10 - 4 more redpoint burns, new highpoint on the jug one move from the no hands rest, on my last shot of the day, pumped to oblivion and unable to finish it off. Got unlucky on the first 2 burns (one fall I ended up BELOW Will after falling off), and had a dry slip while crushing on my 3rd.
2 more days of good connies and I reckon I can get this done. |
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Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Jared Anderson | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Day 9. Equalled my 2nd best highpoint 3 times (out of 4 redpoint burns) but still didn't push any higher. This still makes it my best ratio going through the low crux. More epic beta refinement until I was so tired I could barely jumar out. Forgetting my brush did NOT help things today.
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Mon 1st Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Day 8. No new highpoint, though I came up with more reliable (though burlier) beta for the first boulder crux, and totally new beta for the move I fell off on my highpoint (which means I should never do THAT again... assuming I ever get there again).
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Sun 24th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match, Luke Hef | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Day 7 - The closest I've come yet. Now including the bottom boulder problem into the rest of the pitch, I fell off on the final moves of the lower half before the no-hands rest. Then on the "one-sit" attempt, I actually stuck the move I normally fall off at the tippy top, but bungled a footer and didn't make the easier moves... But at the end of a big day, I was wrecked.
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Sun 17th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Sail Away Wall | ||||||
28 | ★★ Free Willy - with Stephen Varney, Jared Tyerman | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one lap. Had a pretty good onsight attempt (with no chalk on this thing) but that came to an abrupt halt 3 bolts from the top. I eventually figured out the moves up the burly flake, but the move past the final bolt I never worked out. Not sure if something has broken, if it's just hard, or if I was just worn-out... but it seemed gnarly!
Definitely worth another lap to decide whether or not to stick it out, though I imagine lapping all the hard bit of sail away would get tedious. |
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Sat 16th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Day 5. 3 more laps, and twice more the final move gets me. Groundhog day, much?
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Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Vicky Chen | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Day 4, 3 more laps. Falling off the final moves at the top of this is fast becoming a theme, here. The sequence is hard in isolation, but after 35m climbing it's hard to have the internal discipline to boulder it out. I put in a lot of effort to refining the sequence, and I think I have finally sorted it out (albeit with the loss of a LOT of skin). The biggest concerns now are exhausting all my (wonderful) belayers, or it getting too hot this season.
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Wed 6th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 more shots. Twice fell off the final crux right at the tippy top. The low crux is still giving me a lot of grief, though. So much fun, falling off doesn't matter all that much (though running out of climbing partners does ).
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Sat 2nd Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower | ||||||
27 | ★★★ The Unforgiven - with Jared Tyerman, Stephen Varney | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 laps. The moves felt easy enough today, but on the second lap I still struggled with decent linkage on those final few metres (though hard to tell how much sore skin/tiredness from the day before was a factor). Probably better than I remember, with proper classic climbing throughout, though I imagine the heartbreaker finish might get frustrating.
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Fri 1st Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Stephen Varney, Ben Sanford | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 shots. HARD! Some of the most complex and technical steep climbing I've ever done. The dyno at half-height through the roof is outrageous, and the top 15m headwall is nearly Hairline-levels of mega, up a series of improbable linked features. Still one move I've never worked out near the start.
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Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
29 | ★★ Stelvio - with Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen, Nikita Miltiadou | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 more shots. Had some good linkage on my 2nd shot today. Its kinda down to a single move I just can't stick without rope tension. Proper hard crimp bouldering at the end of 20m of more moderate climbing.
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Sat 18th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
27 | ★ Nadir - with Jared Tyerman, Ben Sanford | 36m | Average | |||
Could be worthwhile if you've sent someone else up with a leaf blower (and bucket and spade) to clean all the sand off first, but as it was today, this felt like a contender for one of the worst routes I've been on in the Blueys. Never again.
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Wed 8th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Proleptic Decrepitude and Despair (Project Paul) | 40m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 laps. Got some good linkage, but the full link is going to be an endurance test. Bloody steep! 27ish? Perfect conditions today, I hate to think how hard this would be if it was humid.
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Sun 5th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Project Paul | 40m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 laps on TRS. Arctic weather, with the wind blasting me with waterfalls from either side. Made some progress.
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Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
29 | ★★ Stelvio - with Match, Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
27ish to the 2nd last bolt, and not too bad, though obviously untrafficked and in need of some mileage to clean it up. The final 2 bolts are nails, and I couldn't touch the last move to the anchor. Could be a rad 27 to finish up the last 3m of the 25 immediately right.
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29 | ★★ Cloudheat Extension - with Match, Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen | 27m | ★ Good | |||
A few cool sequences, though brick hard for 3 bolts, and with an utterly disgusting key chip (I can't fit my fingers in it). Pretty average rock. I wouldn't give it another lap.
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29 | ★ S for Stile - with Match, Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen | 18m | Don't Bother | |||
The start and finish is okay face climbing. The 10m in the middle is a contender for the most glue I've ever seen on a climb, and the worst rock on bentrovato. I broke off 2 key glued holds at the crux almost immediately, so it may not even go anymore. Avoid... seriously!
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Thu 26th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Tank Top | ||||||
26 | ★★ Shelf Life - with Match | 27m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 equipping laps and 3 redpoint burns, all of them ending on the final few moves. Weird that the low crux is no longer an issue (which I couldn't even touch a while ago) but the finale is giving me grief. Perhaps im tired.
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Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Devils Circus | ||||||
27 | ★★ The Dark Hour of Reason - with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Match | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 more shots. Some good linkage, and probably seem more achievable than it has in the past. Awesome, compact, sustained power-endurance climbing on great rock. Much better than I remember.
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Sat 14th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Zoncolan - with Jared Tyerman, Matt King, Nikita Miltiadou, Maxwell Cullen, Emily Blackbourn, David Barrie | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 more redpoint shots. On my 1st lap today I fell off on the final hardish move. After that it got too cold, and then too sunny.
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Cliffhanger-esque roof absurdity. Short, but hilarious. Makes you feel like a boss.