Routes in World for selected grade

Esta ruta es la, “cereza del pastel” de la zona. A la simple vista impone la configuración de la misma asemejando a la clásica ruta, “Cobra Crack” localizada en Squamish, British Columbia; Canadá armada en 1981 por Peter Croft y Tami Knight a espaldas del, “Chief”. (Como dato la histórico de la ruta antes mencionada, en su momento de armada; duró 25 años sin el primer ascenso hasta que el 23 de Junio del 2006 el escalador, Sonnie Trotter liberó esta ruta de 40mts después de 3 años de trabajo). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaP-_N3h4lY Después de haber escalado la primera sección de, “Eleva tu Cosmos”; la extensión de esta misma te lleva por algunos 10 mts. con un ángulo de alrededor de 25°con una micro fisura la cual no promete ningún agarre en su proximidad junto con una pared liza y resbalosa a sus alrededores lo cual es muy probable que ni la mejor suela pueda lograrla fricción adecuada para soportar la tensión del escalador. Se rumora que pudiese ser el siguiente nivel de dificultad en el país de México que hoy por hoy; todavía no se ha aperturado alguna ruta con este probable grado. Además, después de haber escalado la primera sección, el estilo de escalada con fisura es uno que pocos dominan pero no por eso significa que sea imposible de realizar. Vengan, corran la voz e intenten esta ruta que de seguro promete no ser nada fácil pero si te asegurará momentos inmensos de felicidad.

Good overhang.1st and 2nd bolt missing. Here it's 9b+.

8C+ boulder problem in the 8b top out

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb the pocketed wall.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start with block and climb the perfect finger crack.

#sd #rl

#sd #rlrl

#sd, #lr; Along underclings to "Rythmo Brachial"

El bloque más duro de Galicia? Repeticiones?

#SD Video.

The impressive rail on the back of the boulder. Open project. Potentially the hardest line on the islands (if it´s even possible).

SD

#sd #rl

#sd #rl

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD #sitstart Start z madla uprostřed stropu jako 'Willie York' a dále stropem za pravý backhand a tupý spoďák, nátah do hrany a dolez jako 'Willie York'. V podstatě je to 'Willie York' bez špatného stisku vpravo. Z madla uprostřed stropu 8B, ze sedu jako 'Phew York' 8B/B+.

Kombinace cesty 'James Bond' a 'Dnes neumírej'.

Start right hand on crimp low down on hanging block, left hand on flat rail on the backside of the block. Work your way left to eventually finish on big flat edge about 4m away.

Low start with obvious low flakes (low left hand sidepull and right hand under the roof) and left toe. Hard starting move up to the diagonal flake and then up to jug rail to topout on the slab. The pedestal supporting the rock is out. Estimated 13/14? Has been done from one move in (starting with right hand gaston on the flake) clocks in at ~V10/11 Has also been done in two overlapping halves from the start (T Farrell 2023)

Reverse Rodeo Clown into Yo Mama (Anger Management exiting Persistence) Some decent power endurance! Easy V14? 8c/+ Route

R. Hofmann

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis

Tom Farrell

Start at left of cave on good hold traverse right to finish on toucan. Grade is height dependent. Yves said V13 most likely for tall climbers

#SD

Sit-start and climb the overhanging prow finishing out left (the use of a kneepad drastically changes the grade.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start as Steak House but climb through the long roof and finish as Winnie. "Opened on Nelson Mandela's 85th birthday"

Stand start on bad angled edges below the start for Sideshow and Main Event. Head right via gastons and sidepulls to gain gain the lip and finish as for Sideshow

Start with There Will Be Blood, but instead of topping out use the edges on problem #39 to come across to The Katana and finish on The Katana. A long endurance test piece that will certainly be a hard link up. Adds in a hard crux of coming down of the starting edge of #39 to the start of The Katana. Could probably shake out stemming between the Katana and Blood boulders... Contrived...

Description by Keita Kurakami: The first crux is V9 big dyno, and then you can take a short rest but it not good rest. Then you climb 27 crimpy moves 5.14c section. I felt it’s not 5.14d, but I can’t give 5.15a grade so my few experience for sport route. So I graded it 5.14d / 5.15a finally.

A gently overhanging limestone route.

Starts on "Atlantis".

Little white wave shaped overhang. The hardest moves in the crag. Still a project. Grade above 8c+ for sure

A link-up of "Jungfraumarathon" and "Gimmelexpress".

Climbed by Josune Bereziartu (2005).

Same start as 'Il domani'.

Starts with the first 5 five bolts of La Catedral, followed by 2 of "La Catedral del Mal", crosses into Hipoxia and finishes on "Narcótica".

Ciudad de Dios linked into La Novena Enmienda.

The full length of Open Your Mind Direct with its 15m extension.

The grade of this route varied from an initial 9a+ to 9a/9a+ or even 9a. After the ascent by Mateusz Haladaj a hold broke and Ashima Shiraishi was the first to repeat the route after that. Since then the consensus is at 9a/9a+.

Links JoeDan into La Enmienda.

A long traverse and a variante of Tekimuking de la Mare.

A connection of "Joe Blau" and "Papichulo".

Connects "Victimes del Passat", with "Gancho Perfecto". Initially graded 8c+ par Ramon Julian, it was upgraded to 9a/+ by Tom Bolger and Jorge Díaz-Rullo.

Repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi (6/4/2018).

Shares the first part with Wild Publico and the Upper Part with Pal Oeste.

Shares finish with "El subnormal del antihydral".

Easier finish of "Picasso".

A long and steep overhanging line.

This route climbs 10 meters of roof to end up joining with Hulk after a precarious rest. Initially graded 9b, downgraded by Jonatan Flor to 9a.

Adam Ondra thinks the route is hard 9a rather than 9a+, and proposes a slash grade would be best until it has seen more repeats.

Shares anchor with "Nordic Plumber".

Extension of Odin's Eyes. Anchor of Thor's Hammer.

hard 9a/+ means Elias Iagnemma

Connection between 'St. Anger' and Zauberfee.

Climbs Kalmia to the roof then blasts L to finish on Space Shuttle.

This route is made of two parts:

• the first part is a resistant and physical 8c+, followed by a good rest.
• the second part is an 8c taking place in the steepest part of the work that will drain your stamina...

Seb has said that this was harder than "Thor's Hammer" which is why he is suggesting 9a+.

Gérome started working the direct version in 2004 after sending the classic right finish (8c+). He came back to work it in 2009 and again in 2010 when conditions were better. That year, it took him six days to free it.

Starts with a few technical moves and finishes on a sketchy slab.

Originally suggested as a 9a+ also graded with 9a (https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/10/video-anatole-bosio-mit-dritter-begehung-von-aubade-direct-9a/)