Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 17th Jun 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 |
★★ Omaha Beach
- with
Josh Ring
1
2
| 80m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Couldn't do the nails start, and not what I signed up for at grade 18. Traversed a meter or two to the left and went up at a couple of cam placements which was difficult enough anyway. Was good climbing that way. Chockstone staircase finish.
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 ~14 | ★★ Dunes Direct - with J’aime Brunet, Zara, Josh Ring | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Linked second and third pitches with mega drag. Zara did an extra piss ahem pitch.
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge - with J’aime Brunet, Zara | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sunrise
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★ Stalagmite - with J’aime Brunet | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sick stemming and jams. Pro-a-plenty. Love it. Waiting for Dunes.
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
16 Hard | ★ Jason - with Josh Ring | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Slimy slippery polish in the crack. Not a huge fan, but it is good. Would second, but not lead again.
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy - with Josh Ring | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got up to the last buldge before after getting completely bottled below. Rested on gear rather than committing to the crux on hands that could barely open a 'biner. Need to remember to place a purple cam in the crux crack/ pocket reaching from the flat jug to the right. Before then in the big crack, place a red cam in the pocket below.
Overall happy with my effort despite being very unhappy at the time. I think the right decision was made. Had a high left foot to get past the lower crux.
Must try again.
Single rock of cams up to #3 and single rack of nuts with pink tricam should do.
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
18 Hard | ★★ Hurts - with Josh Ring | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained pump management with good gear. I liked this. Felt close to the ground all the time so I placed a lot.
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Stoat Steps Out - with Josh Ring | 8m | Average | |||
Nothing to write home about. Crux seemed to be small hold pulling unless I missed some beta.
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Echo - with Josh Ring | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some awkward beta through the lower corner, but moves throughout the rest were otherwise a delight. Impressive lead by Josh, I would have been squirming. Good composure.
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
21 | ★★★ A Taste of Honey - with Josh Ring | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Superb. Happy with how I climbed this, not as long as I was expecting. Crux moves provoke thought and commitment. Ripper. Thanks for following on this Josh.
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Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bushranger Bluff Back Wall | ||||||
16 Easy | ★ Rubbery Under Arms - with Josh Ring, J’aime Brunet, Zara, Konrad, Amelia | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Up on Josh's gear. Pretty fun! Started further left than expected.
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10 | ★ Tullah's Pleased - with Josh Ring, J’aime Brunet, Zara, Konrad, Amelia | 12m | Average | |||
Not particularly memorable
|
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15 | ★ Orange Crush - with Josh Ring, J’aime Brunet, Zara, Konrad, Amelia | 10m | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★ Kelly Watch The Stars - with Josh Ring, J’aime Brunet, Zara, Konrad, Amelia | 10m | ||||
6 | ★ Cartridge Wall - with Josh Ring, J’aime Brunet, Zara, Konrad, Amelia | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Zoom
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7 | ★ Trooper One - with Josh Ring, J’aime Brunet, Zara, Konrad, Amelia | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Adequate gear and nice rope anchor option at top.
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
15 Hard | ★★ Toccata - with Sumaya | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fwoah, reaaaaally good. Lead as one pitch. Bomber gear and deliciously technical moves requiring some thought. Not a drop of water in sight.
|
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18 ~17 | ★★ Jens Roof - with Sumaya | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Has some entertaining stuff at the roof which would be very photogenic from the didgeridoo pipe I reackon..
Less gear than Dirge.
|
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17 Easy |
★★ Dirge P1
- with
Sumaya
1
17
35m
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Simply divine. Get me back on this. Just the first pitch, second didn't look enticing.
|
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
11 ~10 | ★ Penny Dreadful - with Sumaya | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Way easier than it looks.
|
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11 | ★★ The Archbishop - with Sumaya | 48m | ★ Good | |||
The stemming is cool up top of first pitch.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Second Affinity - with Sumaya | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really quite good. Excellent gear when you need it.
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9 | ★ Munchkin - with Sumaya | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Nice enough.
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16 | ★ Waddy Mackenzie - with Sumaya | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Double rack of cams would be nice but not necessary.
|
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 | ★★ Driftwood/Antigone - with Josh Ring | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Shame about the last pitch, because this route is fab! Huge pitches and mostly decent gear. Tricams galore on second pitch and a microcam protects the last move. Beaut' day for it.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge | ||||||
5 | ★★ Introductory Route - with Josh Ring | 140m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fast simul while we waited for Driftwood-Antigone
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
15 ~18 |
★★ Day of Rest P1
- with
Imogen
1
| 85m | Average | |||
Sandbag. Lowered off the first rap as intended. Half offwidth, half crack. Didn't have the greatest time though the one fist jam was good.
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18 Hard | ★★★ Entertainer - with Josh Ring | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still a classic, and harder than I remember. Josh took a nice big whip on his first attempt!
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15 Easy | ★ Dante's Inferno - with Josh Ring, Imogen | 70m | ★ Good | |||
Gear spaced but good when it's there on the first pitch. Rap chains at the top can be done in one 60m rap or two 30m raps. Better than you would be lead to believe.
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | ||||||
16 Easy | ★ Hum - with Josh Ring, Imogen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool one move!
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17 | ★★ The Second Affinity - with Josh Ring, Imogen | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Middle (laziest) of the three.
|
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 Hard | ★ Gecko - with Imogen, Josh Ring | 48m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Loved this and would come back to lead it to get to AdF first belay.
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21 |
★★★ Auto Da Fe P1
- with
Josh Ring
| 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Only climbed pitch one; ran out of daylight after spending too long working out the moves off the deck. Fantastic climbing above some questionable gear. Would love to come back and finish the other pitch(s). For me the first move involved a dyno to the sloping hole, then mantling from this up to further tricky slab moves with no pro. Real fear.
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14 | ★★ Salamander - with Josh Ring | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Josh got the good pitches. Fun outing and we made excellent time. Would do again.
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area | ||||||
11 | ★★ Harlequin Cracks | 80m | ★ Good | |||
Not the easiest approach. Would do the third pitch direct up the corner next time. Lacing up the zigzag line would cause a lot of drag. There are some alternate, more direct options that are a little more difficult but also look well protected.
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Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
12 Hard | ★★ Watchtower Chimney | 110m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Drag not too bad on the first pitch so long as you are clever. Bring a bolt plate if you choose to use the carrot. Had a magical moment watching the pines drop their pollen in unison. I wonder if there is a more elegant way of doing pitch three than worming your way up, points loss for me on style. I found the pro a bit tricky to place also.
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
11 | ★★ Didgeridoo | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seemed a shame that it didn't get three stars until it bailed off left avoiding the attractive cracks of Horn Piece above. A shame to pike off that way. Bomber pro.
|
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16 | ★ Decibel | 50m | Average | |||
One move, but it's a good move! Reasonable protection and the exit is novel.
|
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Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The juggy side pulls are a delight to hold. Too much to ask for a rack of ten medium blue/ yellow nuts?
|
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18 | ★★ Golden Fleece | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Harder in the rain! Solid lead by Liam
|
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Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
12 | ★ Iago | 45m | Average | |||
Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
12 | ★ Wee Skerrick | 12m | Average | |||
Mon 28th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | ||||||
12 | ★★ Cheshire Cat | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Found a fun thread on the traverse to place a sling with a nut tool. The step around the roof is exciting.
|
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15 | ★★ Siamese Crack | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Take me back to jam school! Forces you to use them.
|
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18 | ★★ Claw | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still just as thrilling on second. Tried it facing right this time, harder or am I fatter?
|
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Mon 28th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area | ||||||
9 | ★★ Beau Geste | 140m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Belay ledge at the top is choice.
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13 | ★ Sob Story | 16m | Average | |||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall | ||||||
12 | ★ Dhole | 20m | Average | |||
Sun 27th Nov 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
11 ~12 | ★★ Bastress - with dinesh s. | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Like someone picked up an organ pipe and plonked it at the other end of Araps. Delightful climbing.
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Sun 27th Nov 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Vandal Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Vandal - with dinesh s. | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely rock. Some tat at the end if pitch one needs cutting and removing. Don't nick your own rope!
|
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Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Reaper
— 2 attempts
- with
dinesh s.
1
2
| 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a blast. First pitch is quite good. Second pitch I managed clean to the crux, tried a few different sequences but by the time I worked it out was gassed and punted off. Went back to belay, pulled the rope and tried again. Ended up briefly dislocating my shoulder through the crux but held on and pulled the remainder of the moves to end up groveling through the crack.
There's a fixed cam at the crux on this route that we couldn't get out, might be blocking a key hold?
10/10 would relocate again.
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Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle | ||||||
20 R | ★ Scourge - with dinesh s. | 20m | ★ Good | |||
10 | The Minstrel - with dinesh s. | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
19 Hard | ★ Rosy Shy - with dinesh s. | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid - with Sumaya, Lewis | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fan-Bloody-Tastic. The first pitch on big block moves, the commitment for the crux, a brilliant technical section after. All on bomber gear where you need it.
Took a break in the second pitch to wander over to watch people on "Spasm in a Chasm" from above.
Then strolled back to smash out the last pitch with glorious exposure. The bottomless chimney can be handled without much thrutching. Taking the crack all the way to the next ledge is a wild way to finish (but well protected with a small cam). The walk off left on original second pitch end looked sketch.
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock Hells Bells Area | ||||||
11 | ★ Armageddon - with Sumaya, Lewis | 13m | ★ Good | |||
9 | ★ Hell's Bells - with Sumaya, Lewis | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
18 | ★★ Salem - with Sumaya, Lewis | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 | ★★ Morgul Can't - with Sumaya, Lewis | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty excellent. Bring your brass. Enjoyed the crux.
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6 | ★ Cloaca - with Sumaya, Lewis | 30m | ★ Good | |||
More instruction. Plenty of gear.
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Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon - with Sumaya, Lewis | 42m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
It's still good. First lead for the others is impressive.
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17 | ★★ lphigenia - with Sumaya, Lewis | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Careful downclimbing required getting off the pinnacle at the back, not great for beginners. Or belay your party down to the ledge/ left and not up to the pinnacle.
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Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | ||||||
11 | ★ Lizard Procrastination - with Sumaya, Lewis | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 2nd May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington - with Dean Bailey, Moriah | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Extremely good. Was waiting for the right day to send and this was it. Last move was puckering and required some steadying of mind to trust the feet. The hand jams and finger locks down low were divine. Get on it.
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Mon 2nd May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Pibroch - with Dean Bailey, Moriah | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dean made use of the bomber gear placements
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21 | ★★ Ethereal - with Dean Bailey, Moriah | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Knowing where the crux moves are made this a calmer lead than it could have been.
|
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21 | ★★ Running on Empty - with Dean Bailey, Moriah | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite different to Ethereal and thus worth doing both for a change in styles. Good doing it second I think. Alzheimer's onsite.
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Sun 1st May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Quisling - with Dean Bailey, Moriah | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Classic raps bulges, love it. Gentle on the fingers.
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Sun 1st May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight - with Dean Bailey, Moriah | 18m, 5 | ||||
All the moves on top, exciting. Big ups to Moriah and Dean for placing the draws!
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Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
6 | ★★ Exodus - with Dean Bailey | 36m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Would eat up pro. Solid rock, nice exposure and good movement.
|
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Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
6 | ★★ Guiding Light - with Dean Bailey | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 23rd Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
14 | ★ The Fall of Man - with Amy Sandkuhl | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty spacey positions for a 14, hectic! Funny and well protected crux on P2 but careful about the rope stretch for your second. Double rope rap off.
|
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7 | ★ The Nude Balloon Dance - with Amy Sandkuhl | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun jug hauling. Well protected but may get some drag if trying to lace it up in one pitch.
|
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13 | ★ The Baptism - with Amy Sandkuhl | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Can't believe this used to be graded ten! Grunty little crux. Inspiring lead by Amy. Well done!!
|
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Wed 22nd Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
10 |
★★ D Major
- with
Amy Sandkuhl
| 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still great. Swung leads with Amy, she led well. Got benighted, what a gumby.
|
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Wed 22nd Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Skink - with Amy Sandkuhl | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Pretty damn fun. I probably need more than 4 alpines. Amy's first hanging belay.
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Wed 22nd Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 | ★ Lawrence - with Amy Sandkuhl | 100m | Average | |||
Bush bash your way through the first pitch for moderately better climbing on the others. Pro can be spaced.
|
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Tue 21st Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Possibly Beautiful - with Amy Sandkuhl | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A repeat. Took a bit of commitment for the holds I couldn't see.
|
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20 | ★ Mind Games - with Amy Sandkuhl | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Worth jumping on for the crux move.
|
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Tue 21st Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★★ Saracen - with Amy Sandkuhl | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good, top can be a bit tricky to work out where to go. Linked P2+3 together.
|
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Wed 4th Aug 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Death Row - with Josh Ring | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
17 | ★★ Garden Gnome - with Josh Ring, Nicholas Stanley | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good!
|
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Wed 4th Aug 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge - with Josh Ring, Nicholas Stanley | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mon 5th Jul 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Ethereal - with Jim Lister | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Managed to snag a sneaky TR provided by Matt and Jim, cheers!
|
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Mon 5th Jul 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
15 | ★★ Sundance - with Josh Ring | 140m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyable!
|
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14 14 R | ★★ Hot Flap - with Josh Ring | 170m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had ticked the start which is shared by Xena. Tri cams got some use.
|
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Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | ||||||
20 | ★★ Bam Bam - with Josh Ring | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really happy with my climbing on this.
|
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Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan - with Josh Ring, Nicole C, Stephen Carter | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
15 | ★ Mullumbimby Madness - with Josh Ring, Nicole C, Stephen Carter | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Certainly some good moves on this at the beginning.
|
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6 | ★ Cloaca - with Josh Ring, Nicole C, Stephen Carter | 30m | ★ Good | |||
9 | ★ The Parson's Nose - with Josh Ring, Nicole C, Stephen Carter | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty decent!
|
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18 | ★★ Morgul Khan - with Josh Ring, Nicole C, Stephen Carter | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Can go direct start on this without using the ramp before the pockets. Well protected and goes at a similar grade. Straightens it up well, especially for Morgul Can't.
|
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Sat 3rd Jul 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | ||||||
23 | ★ Predator - with Josh Ring | 15m | ||||
Gave it a red hot crack. Beyond me!
|
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20 | ★★ Pilot Error - with Josh Ring, Stephen Carter | 12m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Couple of laps
|
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20 | ★★ Pilot Error - with Josh Ring, Stephen Carter | 12m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
19 | ★★ Togrul Khan - with Stephen Carter | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice moves
|
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Mon 1st Mar 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
17 |
★ Barbed
- with
Stephen Carter
2
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
Only the first pitch, then diverted to SCO
|
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18 | ★ Serious Callers Only - with Stephen Carter, Nicole C | 28m | ★ Good |