Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 19th Dec 2021 - Waipari | |||||||
Slug Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Snarf - with Alex Popinga, Aparajita Chakraborty | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Swell - with Alex Popinga | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Put the gear up for Alex with a bit of aiding, and ticked the holds for Alex's send.
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Fri 17th Dec 2021 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Middle Curtain | |||||||
22 | ★★★ AP32 - with Kyle | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 17th Dec 2021 - Waipari | |||||||
Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Hold On To Your Face | 20m, 6 | |||||
Finally got on this route. Though I was pretty tired today and didn't get very far.
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26 | ★★★ Hold On To Your Face | 20m, 6 | |||||
Slightly better second go, but still trying to navigate the traverse. Need to get on this fresh to assess my chances.
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Thu 16th Dec 2021 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Unknown 20 - with Kyle | 20m | |||||
Mon 13th Dec 2021 - The Altar | |||||||
27 | ★★★ The Alter Boy | 10m, 4 | |||||
very strenuous crux, didnt have anywhere near enough juice !
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25 27 | ★★ McChurch | 9m, 4 | |||||
tried the 25 variant, really cool moves
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Tue 7th Dec 2021 - Luggate Boulders | |||||||
Roadside Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ #2 | ||||||
Tue 7th Dec 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ Snap Back Crackalack | 12m, 4 | |||||
Fri 3rd Dec 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Dochawiyogicojalime | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell off right at the end, gut crushing. Feeling strong, but need to be confident on the feet.
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Thu 2nd Dec 2021 - Pōhara | |||||||
Bo Peep Slab | |||||||
25 | ★★ Red Tape - with Jordan Widodo | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2 takes, 0 fall.
worked out beta, wish the top wasnt wet
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Wed 1st Dec 2021 - Pōhara | |||||||
Bo Peep Slab | |||||||
25 | ★★ Red Tape - with Jordan Widodo | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2 takes
2 falls
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Tue 30th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Carpe Diem | 11m, 3 | |||||
Was tantalizingly close using the "normal" beta, might have to find some alternative short person beta (or just get good).
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Mon 29th Nov 2021 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Amphitheatre | |||||||
24 | ★★ Overture - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
First attempt. Just aided my way up to get the draws on and feel the holds and moves.
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24 | ★★ Overture - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Second attempt. Made a good burn to a couple of moves below the end of the boulder problem but still struggling with feet placement and whether to go left through the shattered crimps or right hugging the arete.
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24 | ★★ Overture - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Third attempt. Felt weaker after crimping so much the first couple of times. I will probably extend the third draw significantly to avoid having to think about the run-out, especially if I stick with the right-hand arete beta, which climbs above a big block of rock.
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Sun 28th Nov 2021 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Al Cove | |||||||
25 | ★★ Bob the Builder | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Testing a3 pulley... did all the moves finger felt good
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Sat 27th Nov 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Incredible Hulk | 20m, 8 | |||||
this took all my skin and life juice. epic sustained crux moves
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22 | ★★ Mr Mojo | 55m, 13 | |||||
no more mojo wicked face to climb though
|
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Sat 27th Nov 2021 - Pōhara | |||||||
Bo Peep Slab | |||||||
25 | ★★ Red Tape - with Jordan Widodo | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 24th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ A Carp Died for This Climb - with Alex Popinga, cinthy lorena jimenez silva, Aparajita Chakraborty, Tiki | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 15th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Lust For Life | 10m, 2 | |||||
Don't have the contact strength to grab the crimp below the big horizontal crack nor the explosiveness to go straight up. Time to start the hangboard training.
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Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
27 | ★★ Renegade | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 11th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Right Corner Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Everybody Hrgngh to the Left - with Marnus, Sam Turner | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Working on the bottom section. A fun left foot flag out on start position for short boi beta.
|
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Tue 9th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ I Like Arêtes and I Cannot Lie - with Marnus, Samuel Malan, Nathan | 10m, 5 | |||||
Another attempt, working the move to the arete between 3rd and 4th
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27 | ★★ Renegade (Open Project) | 8m, 2 | |||||
worked on top rope, clean to the pocket then struggling to the next two crimps feels tough heading the left had side pull, top section clean
|
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Mon 8th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ I Like Arêtes and I Cannot Lie - with Marnus, Samuel Malan | 10m, 5 | |||||
Working the move to reach 4th bolt. Made my arm & left ring finger feel sore like I'd been bouldering
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Sun 7th Nov 2021 - Ti Point | |||||||
Whiskey Delta Area | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Troll | 12m, 4 | |||||
Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
24 | ★ HOLE-19 | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ledge eliminate. Really hard at the 2nd bolt. Need to keep working on the beta.
|
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Fri 5th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Dochawiyogicojalime | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
New high point at the ledge to the right of the third bolt, but was too tired to continue.
|
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Tue 2nd Nov 2021 - Ti Point | |||||||
Whiskey Delta Area | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Troll - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
1st tie-in of the day. Working and remembering all the moves. No skin. Ouch!
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25 | ★★ The Troll - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2nd tie-in of the day just to check the first 10 moves with fingers taped. Didn't go well.
|
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25 | ★★ The Troll - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
3rd tie in of the day. Was just cleaning the gear off, but got the first 10 moves clean. Also tried the delicate traverse to the 4th bolt and pretty sure I am happy with the beta now. Really the climb is 16 moves to a jug and then some rest options around the 3rd bolt followed by a delicate sequence of 2-3 moves to jugs for clipping the 4th. The 4th could as well be the anchor as it is walking after that.
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Mon 1st Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Blood Sweat and Sunblock | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
24 | ★★ Dochawiyogicojalime | 11m, 3 | |||||
Clean until the lay back. Need to find the right hand placements. Should get it next session.
|
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23 | ★ Snap Back Crackalack - with Marnus, Nathan | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
New high-point on lead. Need to figure out the move to get over the edge. No way this is a 22
|
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Mon 1st Nov 2021 - Ti Point | |||||||
Whiskey Delta Area | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Troll - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Put the gear on from the ground. Lots of nice moves, quite technical. Got most of the moves sorted on the check out. Pity we forgot our chalk and my skin was very worn. Hopefully it will go down fairly quickly if I get comfortable clipping the second bolt.
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Sat 30th Oct 2021 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Amphitheatre | |||||||
23 | ★★ Pegasus - with Thibaut | 10m, 3 | |||||
Tue 26th Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Dodor - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Put the gear up for Alex.
|
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Sat 23rd Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ Snap Back Crackalack - with Thibaut | 12m, 4 | |||||
Sat 23rd Oct 2021 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Homage Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Pierre | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good links. Ready for red point burn soon.
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Fri 22nd Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Dodor | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got to the move going out right to the pinch of the shallow two finger pocket above the vertical side pull. Couldn't generate enough force to get up there as I can't pull up on the pocket. Need to get feet higher. Good route otherwise, cool sequence.
Climb needs to be brushed |
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24 | ★★ Dochawiyogicojalime - with Marnus | 11m, 3 | |||||
Reached 2nd bolt but couldn't clip. Finger's felt sore after fall so stopped climbing.
|
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Fri 22nd Oct 2021 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Farside | |||||||
25 | ★ On Bidet | 14m, 6 | |||||
Wed 20th Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Two Tools, One Tool, No Tools | 11m, 6 | |||||
Tue 19th Oct 2021 - Glendhu Bay | |||||||
Glendhu Bay Boulders Bay Boulders East | |||||||
V2 | #4 | 3m | |||||
Not yet, can’t get the sit start. Back to the gym I go…
|
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Mon 18th Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
26 25 | ★ Dodor - with Andy Baird | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
too hard for me. but fun to play.
|
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Sun 17th Oct 2021 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A few grades above my usual, but did get to the 3rd bolt
|
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Sat 16th Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Carpe Diem - with Marnus, Samuel Malan | 11m, 3 | Average | ||||
Getting up over the edge isn't easy
|
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Thu 14th Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ Snap Back Crackalack - with Marnus, Nathan, Samuel Malan, Jarod | 12m, 4 | |||||
Managed to kinda do the move from right to left on toprope
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Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
22 | ★★ Shark Chirac | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Arch | |||||||
26 24 | ★★ Two Blue Birds | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Up the arête then right at 2nd bolt. Hard.
|
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Sat 9th Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Two Tools, One Tool, No Tools - with Andy Baird | 11m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
my next project I think
|
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Wed 25th Aug 2021 - Waterfall Crag | |||||||
V7 | ★★ Cramp | ★ Good | |||||
V7 | ★★ Short But Sweet | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Making some links.
|
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Mon 23rd Aug 2021 - Waterfall Crag | |||||||
V8 | ★★ Mr Miyagi | ★ Good | |||||
V7 | ★★ Short But Sweet | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Waterfall Crag | |||||||
V7 | ★★ Short But Sweet | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Start is nails and a bit too uncomfortable without a mat.
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Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Spurt | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun line. Can get to the bowling ball hold, but can't move off of it.
|
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Sat 7th Aug 2021 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Opening the account on this stonker of a route. Amazing movement! Made all the moves to the penultimate bolt, just below the waterfall. Definitely need to refine some beta, but mostly need to be able to hang on!
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Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Sheridan Hills | |||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | |||||||
24 | ★★ Arms Control | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got past the crux, but was too pumped to do the rest of the climb
|
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Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Britten Crag | |||||||
Legends Wall | |||||||
24 | ★ Face Plant | 18m, 6 | |||||
Wed 14th Jul 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
15 | ★ Canadian Summer (M5) | 11m, 7 | |||||
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - The Airstrip | |||||||
The Spartan Roof Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Spartan Roof Traverse | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Needed good spotters to send it
|
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Sat 3rd Jul 2021 - Pakeho | |||||||
Main Crag | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Daz Angst - with Alex Popinga | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pumpy. In my current condition I was just happy to get to the top. Took a big whip off the upper bulge, so I guess the head game is okay
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Sat 3rd Jul 2021 - Pakeho | |||||||
The Stone Steps | |||||||
23 | ★ Bottle of Smoke - with Alex Popinga | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cute little route but my finger didn’t let me have a proper go.
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Mon 28th Jun 2021 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
25 | ★ Power Curve | 18m, 5 | |||||
Stuck the 'jug' after a few attempts. Need a few red-point burns once I'm back in Wanaka.
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Sat 26th Jun 2021 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Amphitheatre | |||||||
25 | ★★ Strong Men Also Cry - with Edwin Sheppard | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had a go after watching Erica on it Committed to her version of solving the crux from 4th to 5th bolts (same beta as Alexei ♡) 👍🏼 Made improvement, can get the crappy intermediate crimp with left hand by cranking the high right heel, bumping up left foot, squeezing hard to stay close to wall (thanks to Edwin and Erica both for the tips!) Did 5th bolt to anchor cleanly for first time. Will continue working it next time when it's not so busy!
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Fri 25th Jun 2021 - Jardines | |||||||
Tussock | |||||||
V6 | ★ Tussock West Face 2 | ||||||
All moves linked, just gotta pull crux mantle.
|
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Thu 24th Jun 2021 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Highside | |||||||
27 | ★★ Attict - with Ryan Instone | 15m, 7 | |||||
Sun 20th Jun 2021 - Jardines | |||||||
Tussock | |||||||
V6 | ★ Tussock West Face 2 | ||||||
Sat 5th Jun 2021 - Waipari | |||||||
Bete Noire Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Safety Buffalo - with Thibaut | 10m, 5 | |||||
Sat 5th Jun 2021 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★ Thunder Blaster | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 4th Jun 2021 - Wye Creek | |||||||
South Side Harold's Wall | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Projection | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great climb well bolted, fun runouts safe whips, will take a while to get the beta down to climb it fast enough to not get too pumped and flow. highly recommend
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Sat 22nd May 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | |||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Wicked - with Alexei Drummond | 19m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did the crux (bouldery bottom) then backed out as I know the rest very well from having just done "Wicker Man" to the right (they share the rest). Messed up my flash attempt by not getting the right hand two finger pocket pinch quite right and threw for anything for the left hand by the 2nd bolt (rather than getting the right hand solid and then just standing up to reach the crimp pocket for the left hand) 🙂 Would have had a 2nd go but felt totally powered out today (couldn't do any sort of pull-up move whatsoever by this point - maybe should listen to Chris and physio and do more pull-up, etc., training!!!)
|
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Sat 1st May 2021 - Mangorewa | |||||||
River Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★ Chuffa Chuffa Toot Toot (Chuffa Chuffa Toot Toot P1)
1
21
15m
| 15m | |||||
Sat 1st May 2021 - Turakirae Head | |||||||
The Bronx Kish Kash Boulder | |||||||
V4 V3 | ★★★ Kish Kash | 6m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Very good problem, all technical. You need to use a couple of good foot techniques eg. Kneebar to send this problem. Definitely recommend it. Harder than V3!
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Tue 27th Apr 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Pump House Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Gorsing Around - with Eric Horn | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Finally got the moves dialled, all about the footwork, going left, and the finger lock in the top of the triangle slot.
|
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Mon 26th Apr 2021 - Elephant Rocks Bouldering | |||||||
Map 3 | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ French Kiss | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So close to the top! Super sharp pockets to a mono, to a razor sharp edge. All on smears, just gotta dial the smears to mantle!
|
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Sun 25th Apr 2021 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | |||||||
23 | ★★ Hardon | 8m, 2 | |||||
Sun 18th Apr 2021 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | |||||||
25 | ★ 0 to 10 in 60 | 6m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Amphitheatre | |||||||
25 | ★★ Strong Men Also Cry | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The hold is gone!! The crimp right of the 4th bolt was my crux hold and now there is just a rock scar where it used to be. There is a much smaller sharper crimp that is 10cm lower remaining, but I can't do the same move off that one. So back to the drawing board. How annoying At least Alex worked out some really nice efficient beta for the boulder problem at the first bolt.
|
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25 | ★★ Strong Men Also Cry | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Third go of the day. Second go with Thibaut's beta for going left of the fourth bolt. However my skin is knackered and every hold hurts to use Got to the fourth bolt clean again but couldn't do the crux move with my sore fingers. I guess I am going to have to put one more day into this one At least it is a cool climb.
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Fri 9th Apr 2021 - Britten Crag | |||||||
The Alcove | |||||||
23 | ★★ Liposuction | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 8th Apr 2021 - Colac Bay | |||||||
Pounamu Cove | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Payne and Glory | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Holding the dyno off slopers. Just not sticking it with tension. Big move, bad feet.
|
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Wed 7th Apr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
25 24 | ★ Rumble in the Jungle | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
my fingers hurt
|
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Mon 5th Apr 2021 - Whakapapa Gorge | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Ape to Angel - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Just happy to get to the anchor. Either trying this on the third day climbing was a bad idea or I am just not strong enough yet
|
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Sun 4th Apr 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Pump House Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ The Potarta | 10m | |||||
Playing around on The Potarta and checking out William's new route to the right of it.
|
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Sat 3rd Apr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
24 | ★ Rumble in the Jungle - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 5 | |||||
First go. Climbed to third bolt but then worked it through 4th and 5th bolts. To the 5th bolt is definitely the crux for me.
|
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Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Arch | |||||||
18 14 | ★ Kyrie Elison - with Eric Horn | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
At least as hard as Chad, and I haven't done the roof yet. Thanks to Eric's help past the crux [better jamming helped too]. Tricam blew out behind large block, so I'll abseil down again to check that next sections placements, seems a lot of stacked blocks :-/
|
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Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Waipari | |||||||
Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Hold On To Your Face | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
26 | ★★★ Hold On To Your Face | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 27th Mar 2021 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Arch | |||||||
24 | ★★ Two Blue Birds - with Alexei Drummond | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found some better beta by going right early (after clipping second bolt) rather than going right late.
|
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Thu 25th Mar 2021 - The Airstrip | |||||||
The Wave Wall | |||||||
V9 | ★★★ Wave of Echoes | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Amazing climb. Should have tried this a long time ago. Next session.
|
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Mon 22nd Mar 2021 - Frog Pond | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
24 25 | ★★★ Mutation in my Genes | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such a wicked climb and would love to get back on this one day for another go. Only set it up using the clipstick to work the moves but it's definitely doable. Personally I'd say it's more of a 24 but that's just my opinion. Great climb however and well worth the stars
|
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Tue 16th Mar 2021 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Right Corner Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Hrgngh Direct | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 14th Mar 2021 - Waipari | |||||||
Heavenly Wall | |||||||
24 | ★ Jolly Green Giant | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 13th Mar 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Aliens | 20m, 9 | |||||
Sun 7th Mar 2021 - Stony Batter | |||||||
First Round Area The Salma Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Salma - with Thibaut | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great moves but hard to top out
|