Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | ||||||
24 R Hard | ★★ The Age of Reason - with zachary vertrees | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
||||||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | ||||||
24 R Hard | ★★ The Age of Reason - with JJ | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Toproped the hard bottom half from good gear in middle of climb before the easier top part…
Did all the moves with a few falls, except initial boulder to get established…
Great progress but shredded tips for the effort…
|
||||||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | ||||||
24 R Hard | ★★ The Age of Reason - with Macciza a.k.a. Macca | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got it pretty much all worked out… except initial moves off ground to first decent hold, my legs don’t work like they used to …
Amazing thin technical climbing that only gets easier via good technique.. Definitely need tougher tips as they aren’t handling it too well currently…
|
||||||
Tue 19th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | ||||||
24 R Hard | ★★ The Age of Reason | 30m | ||||
Strange how a big break can change one’s opinion of spicy routes.. where previously the lack of bolts was of some concern, looking at it today it seems they may not even be necessary and it could go just on gear instead… still have to work out the moves but this makes it all the better…
|
||||||
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | ||||||
23 R Hard | ★★ Freak Where Soft | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Can now hold the holds and climb through low crux though protection still an issue… still fine tuning exactly which hand holds to use and footwork to match… definitely full value route and seeing some progress…
|
||||||
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
23 | ★★ Creep Show - with zachary vertrees, Kamil | 18m | ||||
Hmm, it seems one’s warmup and grade progression doesn’t really carry over from the previous evenings climbing… bugger ….
Oh well put in a reasonable effort before getting a bit boxed one move from a better hold but couldn’t sort lower body out in order to bump right hand a few inches to a better hold… Flash pump saw me digging the final few moves.. |
||||||
22 | ★★ Room With a View - with zachary vertrees, Kamil | 15m | ||||
Redeemed myself somewhat with a single fall on this .. Did all the moves but similar lower body/ legs issues… Have done this before BITD…
|
||||||
23 | ★★ The Never Believers - with zachary vertrees, Kamil | 15m, 8 | ||||
Ooops, logged the wrong climb , was actually Creep Show…
Will leave this up as I would have done thus 20 years ago…
|
||||||
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ These People are Sandwiches - with zachary vertrees | 15m | ||||
Toproped this after Zac’s barefoot ascent to finish the day not expecting much… But then I don’t like to just give up so found myself fighting hard to find body position off the slopes pocket before spitting off… Looked at the sequence, pulled back on instead threw past the poor pocket to the jug ledge then on to the top… I guess I could be up to leading it sometime soon hopefully…
|
||||||
21 | ★ These Dogs are Whippets - with zachary vertrees | 15m, 5 | ||||
Not having bolt plates with us we rigged this for toproping and I went for it and went fine… Although more technical my guess at grade was 18/19 so pleasantly surprised when told its 21 …
|
||||||
18 | ★ Hold on to Your Hats - with zachary vertrees | 15m | ||||
Little bit more engaged on this one mainly working out where to go and whether I should choose easier or direct options? Not as comfortable but got there in the end without too much difficulty…
|
||||||
13 | ★ Pompadour - with zachary vertrees | 15m, 10 | Average | |||
Well I guess it’s good that this one of my first getting back to leading climbs given it was the first climb I got on post accident in moon boots…
Felt comfortable, no big deal really…
|
||||||
Thu 1st Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | ||||||
23 R Hard | ★★ Freak Where Soft - with Macciza a.k.a. Macca | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Re found most of the holds and gear.. and thanks to old video could work out most of the sequences…
Still a bit to piece together…
|
||||||
Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | ||||||
23 R Hard | ★★ Freak Where Soft - with Macciza a.k.a. Macca | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This came up in recent discussions so I figured I should have a re-look at … hmmm, ok ….
Might need to look again to find the rest of the holds and gear… whatever was I thinking???
All that said, it’s an interesting proposition…
|
||||||
Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Sound and Vision - with Tom | 20m | ||||
1 fall when glasses got messed u and couldn’t see hold…
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Mike and Lorna go to Town - with Tom | 25m, 6 | ||||
19 | ★★ Quirrell's Quarrell - with Tom | 25m, 10 | ||||
Wed 17th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Fashion Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Pushover Pinnacle Direct | 20m, 9 | ||||
Finally a clean ascent as the final, and easiest, route of the day… Warmdown with rain coming…
|
||||||
23 | ★★ Fashion | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hmmm, my last recorded tick of this route was in approach shoes, with 1 fall… not quite back to that even in my current technical shoes…
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Queen Bitch | 15m | ||||
Warmup..?? Got through the start, settled a bit, but gassed out just before chains… Tried, tired…
|
||||||
Wed 22nd Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Colosseum | ||||||
23 |
★★ Ant Acid P2
- with
zachary vertrees
2
23
14m
| 14m | Average | |||
Second pitch only after trad first pitch. Not too bad...
|
||||||
17 | Red Solo Cup - with zachary vertrees | 20m | Average | |||
Not too bad... bit of tape might have helped ...
|
||||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Crown Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses - with zachary vertrees, Nigel | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Maybe La Petite Course would be more appropriate… though it is grand with a little bit of almost every crack size in its short length… Stout start that quickly eases, good fun …
|
||||||
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
The West Side Ridge | ||||||
19 | ★★ Spot the Brain Cell - with zachary vertrees | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Didn’t spot it …?? Definitely licheny and somewhat hard at the grade because of that … quite the task for my feet… bit of rope weirdness saw me not wanting to take a pendulum fall at the crux after cleaning final gear … Almost pitched off but managed to grab rope and use a 2 second tension move to avoid catastrophe before thrutching to glory …
Would be quite different if you could see more of the rock when necessary…
|
||||||
16 R | ★ Split Cwym Boulder - with zachary vertrees | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Probably not the best for people with dodgy ankles or feet.. but really quite challenging fun… still a bit put off by potential pendulum falls but managed to avoid it …. Really lichened top out …
|
||||||
Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Colossus P1
1
23
A quick seconding lap to remind myself just how nails hard this is in classic old school grading… how could I forget to tape my pinkies …?? | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Amen Corner - with zachary vertrees, Nigel | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Bit of a battle due to sore legs and feet… also tend to forget this is 18 not 15… had to fight for it, but at least didn’t give up…
|
||||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Auntie Jack - with zachary vertrees | 27m, 1 | ||||
15 | ★★ Peppercorner | 30m | ||||
Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sunbath | ||||||
20 | ★★ Radioactive Man - with zachary vertrees | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Probably did this back in the day as well, so Alzheimers flash… bit of fight but stuck at it and got there in the end…
Starting to feel a bit more comfortable with technical footwork but lacking strength…
The return continues…
|
||||||
18 | ★ Spook Eyes - with zachary vertrees | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
May have/probably done it back in the day… but it was pretty much my first lead in a few years…
Ridiculously great climb to do it on climbing in to clear and present danger around the arete rather than the contrived thinner face… pulled back onto main face for the end…
Hopefully more lead to come…
|
||||||
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Victoria Falls Left Side Upper | ||||||
23 | ★★ Spasmo's on Acid Direct - with zachary vertrees | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Middle a bit thin for me, and misremembered Zac’s sequence… but soldiered on to the top in the end … probably could have done them in approach shoes like Zac did, back in the day… maybe again someday…
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Optimum Beer Level - with zachary vertrees | 30m | Average | |||
Chewed a bit much gas having to create solutions at the start so didn’t quite have enough in the tank at the end … not the best warmup…
|
||||||
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Valley Farm | ||||||
25 | ★★ Frankenstein - with Zac | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Hmm, so this was supposed to somehow be 18 at the bottom an 23 at the top by our reckoning even though it hardly looked it … it wasn’t… but I still put in a reasonable effort at points though ultimately my feet failed me …
|
||||||
26 | ★★ I ought to be thy Adam - with Zac | 32m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Somehow angled to convince ourselves this should be a 22 due to poor research… it wasn’t … in fact quite tricky and somewhat hard,… Dogged bits towards the top..
|
||||||
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zap Crag Upper Zap | ||||||
22 | ★★ Jug Buzz | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to try hard on the warmup but did pretty well.. misread a sequence or two trying to work out my feet… but sorted it out easy enough.. probably did this back in the day …
|
||||||
28 | ★★ Zapt | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Just some top rope fun on the easier bit at start so I could try hard …
|
||||||
Tue 15th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Noisy Place | ||||||
22 Easy | ★★ Die, Fox, Die - with zachary vertrees | 15m | ||||
Seconding Zac, taped first two fingers and climes better, more linkage, then on previous top rope solo attempts… Might be possible on lead with practice and gear placements sorted…
|
||||||
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
19 Hard | ★★ Hot Flyer pitch 1 - with Seb and Co. | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Seems I can still kinda climb.. when I need to…
Climbing fast due to setting sun and using unchalked crimps for a revised sequence at the crux due to feet not working…
Amazing how needing to get something done makes it more possible…
Thanks for the support folks
|
||||||
Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Noisy Place | ||||||
22 Easy | ★★ Die, Fox, Die | 15m | ||||
Hmm, fingers and hands still kinda work but my footwork sucks on account of my feet…
Maybe, maybe.. but wouldn’t be able to stand around placing too much gear, so maybe maybe not…. See what happens…
|
||||||
Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mike and Lorna go to Town - with Dillon | 25m, 6 | ||||
Trying to get back into it before have to back out due to upcoming operation....
|
||||||
Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Pluck the Duck | 12m | ||||
First time on rock in my new shoes...
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★ Hark! The .. - with zachary vertrees | 15m, 6 | ||||
19 | ★ Anal Leakage - with zachary vertrees | 15m, 6 | ||||
Mon 26th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Ancient Mariner Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Mr. Curly - with zac, sophie | 10m, 3 | ||||
Actually wore climbing shoes and even used some normal technique… and got to the top despite using some poor holds…
|
||||||
Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Hermione - with QLD Uni srudents | 25m, 8 | Average | |||
Pretty sure it was this one … not really paying attention just bludged a belay whilst passing by on a walk…
First completed route in quite some time … in approach shoes too…
|
||||||
Sun 17th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab | ||||||
18 | ★ The Answer is Obvious - with zachary vertrees | 20m | ||||
Yep, the answer is obvious.... I’m not quite recovered... But still a climber...The most painfully difficult fun I’ve had in a while ... Have always been good at adapting my style to my injuries but this is next level...
Just missed the final move, but I was wearing approach shoes... anyway did it a quarter century ago and my kids did it 20 years ago... will come back when I can wear climbing shoes for the send ... |
||||||
Fri 1st Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | ||||||
10 | ★ Lishenbak - with zachary vertrees | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Well obviously I’ve done it before, in many different styles, but it’s seems this is the first time I’ve recorded it...
Seemed hard for 10 in my current condition... though trying to climb it technically probably didn’t help... First time trying actual climbing shoes in a very long time, approach shoes would have been better ...
Felt like 15 but would only have been 12 in approach shoes... definitely felt less than 10 last time I soloed it ...
|
||||||
Mon 14th Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ Joseph - with zac and co | 46m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Well considering the last few times on this I soloed it... today was somewhat humbling...
Felt somewhat difficult.. more difficult than an 18 slab at Shipley .... but I got there ... even if I was totally outclimbed by a 10 yo kid and a BTK amputee... well done by them ...
Feet were having quite the party afterwards and the walkout was somewhat hellish...
But I did it ...
|
||||||
Tue 25th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab | ||||||
18 | ★ The Bandoline Grip | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
2nd route back on rock after a years break... slightly challenging in boots ... bailed on final move, but close enough...
|
||||||
Fri 14th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | ||||||
13 | ★ Pompadour | 15m, 10 | Average | |||
1st route back after my accident and 2 days shy of the anniversary... Arctic conditions meant I needed to pull through final moves due to painful frozen fingers ... plus moonboots don’t perform well on small footers ...
|
||||||
Wed 15th Jan 2020 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Bluff Mountain | ||||||
20 19 | ★★ Ginsberg - with zachary vertrees | 330m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did the Cameron/Moon 20 variant and possibly some other variations as some of the route description doesn’t match what we did ...
Done as 5 x 60m pitch’s more or less ... Thunderstorm rolled through to cool, and wet, us down in the upper pitches ... Great fun of the type you can only have in places such as these ... car to car in about 10 hours but we smelt the roses along the way ... |
||||||
Sun 15th Dec 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ Joseph | 46m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Everyone should do the second pitch as well ...
|
||||||
Sun 15th Dec 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Hocus Pocus Area | ||||||
8 | ★★ Hocus Pocus | 49m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 15th Dec 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Descent Gully Area | ||||||
11 | ★ The Bonatti Crack | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 4th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
20 21 | ★★ Smack My Pitch Up - with zachary vertrees, Michael Croker | 120m | ★ Good | |||
Hmmm not bad... bit of a ‘weird scenes inside the goldmine’ type day ...
Route is a bit over bolted imho but most probably like it like that.
Swung pitches...
|
||||||
Sat 14th Sep 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall | ||||||
26 M5 R | ★★★ Gigantor - with zachary vertrees | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A little bit of TR reacquainting with this king line ... great to get back, been too long ...
|
||||||
Fri 6th Sep 2019 - Blue Lake | ||||||
Mr Macs Mini Mixed Crag Left Side | ||||||
M6 | ★★ Jase’s Pick - with Jason Piper | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm up for Mrs Macs that had me cooking... First winter (spring?) mixed route at crag. Not too bad.
|
||||||
WI3 | ★ First Rush - with Jason P | ★ Good | ||||
First winter route at cliff . Ain a rush to get to top to see what belay options there wet ...
good fun , solid sticks with tools under a layer of loose snow ...
|
||||||
Mon 2nd Sep 2019 - Blue Lake | ||||||
The Boulder | ||||||
M5 WI4 WI4 M7 | ★★★ Mac’s Mere Winter Climb - with Jason Piper | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First top rope ascent. Complete route via technical M5 drytool start then various ice to WI4...
|
||||||
Sun 1st Sep 2019 - Blue Lake | ||||||
The Steppes | ||||||
WI3+ | ★★ Right Chimney - with Jason Piper | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first actual lead ascent of this ... despite having down soloed it last season, and TR’d before that ...
Bit of fun as it allows a little bit of 3 dimensional climbing rather than the usual flat plane...
Nice fat ice this year.
|
||||||
Sun 25th Aug 2019 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
13 | ★ Sod - with Yulid Shorrock, Pedro V | 84m | ★ Good | |||
Sport version of the old school aka runout version of this ... a cam, then two bolts clipped with wires .. up to the chains and lower off...runout solo like slabby goodness...
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Mirrorman - with Nathaniel | 90m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat from BITD...
Classic when done as 2 mega pitches.... gave Nate the top two for full value as I’d sold him short on the top of Cactus ... great finish...
|
||||||
19 | ★ Agent Orange - with Nathaniel | 90m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty sure I did this back in the day and probably on sight so will tick repeat as such ...
Gear is fine,if not optional at start, same with directional in roof if placed... certainly does not need any extra bolts, will fix description...
|
||||||
Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Cactus - with Pedro V, Nathaniel | 78m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Note to self: checkout climb better before deciding to attempt it in oversized trashed mountain boots... and decide better .,.
Any way, redeemed myself with mega pitch above that, though I was extremely short on draws somehow... didn’t leave Nate much at the top but no other option really .. sorry matey...
Probably best as 2 decent length pitches. Single rack, wires and draws should do .. ymmv ..
|
||||||
Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Psychodrama Direct Finish - with Nathaniel | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup climb after a week down the snow .... Crimpy goodness but it’s the feet that matter ..
|
||||||
Fri 16th Aug 2019 - Blue Lake | ||||||
The Boulder | ||||||
WI4 M7 | ★★★ Mac’s Mere Winter Climb - with Macciza a.k.a. Macca | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 7th Jul 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Delicate Flower - with zachary vertrees, Kamil, Sophie | 45m | ||||
Pretty much did all the moves with only some minor bogging down at the crux ... linked a bunch more, then bogged down a bit with the pump ... regathered a bit and trucked to the top ... end of day cleaning mission ...
Probably a good side project for stamina training for some harder objectives ... hoping for a fairly quick tick ...
|
||||||
13 | ★★ Berk, Berk, Bekawrk - with Sophie, zachary vertrees, Kamil | 20m | ||||
Lovely alpine womble made all the better due to moistness.... if only I’d had my mountain boots instead of blown out approach shoes ...
|
||||||
19 | ★ Pick Pocket - with zachary vertrees, Kamil, Sophie | 20m | ||||
Pleasant enough...
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Drop Bear - with zachary vertrees, Kamil, Sophie | 20m | ||||
Skipped a few clips ...
|
||||||
21 | ★ Enough Already - with zachary vertrees, Kamil, Sophie | 32m | ||||
If you didn’t really watch the people before you that much and find that you climb it differently to how you thought they climbed it ... is that a flash .. or a ‘pinkpoint onsight’ ....
Nice climbing ...
|
||||||
Wed 15th May 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond | ||||||
23 | ★★ Bad Moon Rising - with zachary vertrees, Vince | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had been saving this one for far too long , and Vinnie was psyched for it so I joined in, somebody had to clean it after all ...
Enjoyable climbing up to the roof that lulls you into a false sense of difficulty before suddenly turning up a notch at the lip ... bit of flash/cleaning pump and bad hand placement caught me out on the first shot but then climbed through ... Great route, will be back for the full tick soon .. |
||||||
Wed 15th May 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Shakes and Flakes Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes - with zachary vertrees, Vince | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not sure about the rebolt, but fortunately did this ‘back in the day’ so got the original experience as a beginner... so we ended up doing the ‘extra shakes’ greenpoint version with only one bolt clipped on whole route , though I did clip a second temporarily before deciding to remove it ... may be able to avoid the one we clipped but may require a good belayer or simply not falling ...
Good gear available for most of route if you take your time, commit a little bit at times and relax for the final runout to the chains ... best way to do the route imho ... try it, you’ll like it .! |
||||||
Mon 22nd Apr 2019 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Tonduron | ||||||
FA ★ Midnight Express - with zachary vertrees | ★ Good | |||||
Accidentally FA’d first few pitches whilst looking to free Starlight Express ...
More pitches to follow hopefully... |
||||||
22 M3 22 M3 | Starlight Express - with zachary vertrees | 240m | ||||
Ooops... bit of confusion meant that I’d racked up for the rather easy looking first pitch it was easier to just solo up an easy ramp to set the first belay...
Oh well I guess I get what would have been the second pitch ... Oops... looks like I headed up the wrong crack ..... an accidental FA... and start of new project ... will be back for round two on both routes ... |
||||||
Sun 21st Apr 2019 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Belougery Spire North Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Caucasus Corner - with zachary vertrees | 330m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Late start but direct approach and we just managed to fit the summit and descent in ...bit of a long day all up ...
Did some variant pitches in the upper half as the phone had run out so we had to just make it up... looking back at the description we definitely weren’t on line for a while there but ended up in roughly the right the spot and summited ... Bit of a long day but mostly mild climbing ..great view and some great position, some interesting rock in parts ... |
||||||
Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Tonduron | ||||||
5 | ★★ South Arete - with zachary vertrees | 170m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got a bit high on the way to the East Face so figured we would continue to the top then downclimb the South Gully ...
Of course we had our packs with double rack and double ropes, etc and I was in mountain boots ... great fun, great views ... A few options for shorter harder trad around too ... |
||||||
Tue 9th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Sanction of the Victim - with Terri | 22m, 13 | Average | |||
Was on this once a while ago... so second shot tick ....
|
||||||
21 22 | ★★ Sheep go to Heaven, Goats go to Hell - with Terri | 24m | Average | |||
18 | ★★ The Polar Opposite - with Terri | 20m | Average | |||
Sun 31st Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Disbelief Cave | ||||||
21 | FA ★★★ The Gob-smacking Brute ?? - with zachary vertrees | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First ascent ... An awesome line that seems to dare/demand that you to give it a try despite your 'better judgement' ....
Regardless of the chance of failure and obvious ensuing difficulties we gave it a shot, though the unknowns of getting a decent belay and getting through the roof held the keys to success... fortunately we were pleasantly surprised.... An awesome, engaging, full value climb ... |
||||||
Tue 26th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | ||||||
10 | Nutmeg - with Macciza a.k.a. Macca | 20m | Average | |||
Easiest way out after looking at some other routes in the area ... well, ok there is a 9 but it's R rated ... and my approach shoes are blown out ...
|
||||||
Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Disbelief Cave | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Left Crack - with zachary vertrees, jaimie | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was meant to be warm up for one of the other routes here ... but wasn't really warmed up for this anyway ... was more interested in time than the onsight so unfortunately no gold star ...oh welll maybe a silver next time ...
|
||||||
22 | ★★★ Center line - with zachary vertrees | 40m | ||||
Seconding Zac on FA. 1 cleaning issue at crux and lovely wetness for the easy top out... great fun ...
|
||||||
Sat 2nd Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Disbelief Cave | ||||||
19 | ★★★ A Right Chimney - with zachary vertrees, J Corkins | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Onsight First ascent(?) by Zac and cleanly seconded by Jamie and myself. Almost came off in offwidthy thrutch section just before cave but kept it together. Strange how sometimes one can seemingly completely forget , or at least not remember, or perhaps ignore, sequences you've just watched others do...
Good fun old fashioned climbing, done in fine style by all... |
||||||
24 | ★★★ Beyond Belief - with zachary vertrees, Jamie | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just the short version today... cleaning after Zac's onsight ... enjoyable climbing up to where it steps up a little ... pealed out off an off-hands section trying to milk a poor jam to get my other failing jam a bit better ... then continued ... will be back for further attempts and beyond ...
Great climbing and quite novel looking route ...
|
||||||
Sat 23rd Feb 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
24 |
★★ Charlie Don't Surf P2
- with
zachary vertrees, Kamil
2
24
25
| 25m, 18 | ★ Good | |||
Rapped in and toproped out for fitness .... not bad, bit pumpy ...
Route is a bit 'gluey' in spots, and probably could have had less bolts ... imho ... |
||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with zachary vertrees, Kamil | 75m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rack of DMM's, rack of Totems and half a dozen small-med offset Metolius, plus a rack of wires (only 2 got used) and Zac still had gear left over at the end ... as usual, and ledge to ledge as a single pitch with direct finish continuing up corner to CDS belay ... the obvious and natural finish in our view, no need to bail onto the slab, stick to the line ... a 60m makes it as one pitch this way, though dismantle belay and climbing up to start of route(tied in and ready) makes sure ...ymmv..
Anyway was hoping I'd be able to stem more but instead found a lot of had to load my bad knee quite a bit requiring weird techniques at times and ultimately a fall or two... lot of stretch on 8.4's left me well off line and a short jug or two was needed to get back to the climbing... direct finish was pretty good and should clean up ... will be back at some point... great climb as done, not sure on grade until I lead it .... Ran into Neil and Frothy out there on their respective projects and had some interesting discussions about stuff an' things ... |
||||||
Sun 17th Feb 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Dalpura Head The Lost Pillar | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Wafer Thin Fin - with zachary vertrees | 71m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Only 2 stars from me due to weird bolting plus I prefer carrots in wilderness adventure settings ... I feel it's a bit overhyped but it's certainly good fun ... Only seconding as I still need to work out what my knee can actually handle ... Simul- rapped in, and climbed out, on thin'ish doubles...
Typical day really...? Walked in late enough to see canyoners exiting as we leisurely strolled in ... got off track once or twice but knew the general direction and had GPS backup... didn't see any tape but didn't really need to... navigation and trackfinding is not too bad ... Weird start particularly if not stick clipped and belayed from the ground ... might need to look at the direct start at some point ... and further investigate some other options... Thought the first pitch felt harder than the second... second pitch was far less pumpy .. didn't need the draw to pull on on third pitch but missed a move after that and had a rest ... Rapped down into gully on double 60's and climbed out on Welsh Dragon due to time constraints so that we made it back to the car by dark.and without needing to find the blue barrel of destiny... a great afternoons ramble.. I'll be back ... |
||||||
Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | ||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - with zachary vertrees | 45m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun excursion.Loses star for excess bolting at top ... sorry
|
||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - with zachary vertrees | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seconded first pitch, firsted second pitch ...
Rapped from tree to rings . Then to ground with a 70...
|
||||||
Sat 26th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Thor Head | ||||||
24 | ★★★ I Hurt it on the Grapevine - with Zac | 50m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I think we did the direct start, which may be a tad harder than 24 and a bit reachy... Pulledbthrough s few hard bits down low but climbed the rest fairly well albeit a bit pumped ...
|
||||||
Thu 24th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | ||||||
21 22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bugger ... so close and yet so far... but I guess a bit of ClifBar, drink and smoke beforehand may not have been best before an onsight..
Lacking double Red and Green didn't help either ... nor did hanging around to try and retrieve a tipped-out medium offset, shenanigans around the tree and trying to conserve stuff for the top... left me a bit ragged heading up the v-Chimney at the top which didn't treat my stomach or dodgy knee too well... Was really hoping the #2 would just slit right in at the lip... but it didn't really Totem would have been fine, anyway blacked it back in the start of roof. Retrieved long sling from below and then finally went to look round the lip but nah, no gear options to suit my fatiguing condition and hip/knee tweakage that wasn't the best ... Lowered off the 2 in the roof, retrieving a bunch of gear, climbed back up and aided on to above roof then pulled over the top ... Really should have onsighted it ... |
||||||
21 | ★★ Dude where's my cam? - with zachary vertrees | 45m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Maybe soft at 21 ... Shuffling a #4 up the wide part works well if you only have 1 with you ... Roof crack can be avoided by angling right to arête and good gear at end of the roof ...
Only 1 tricky move (particularly with a dodgy right knee) on top arête and could have had less bolts up there so loses a star for that
Prob only 35 m as yet again we simul-rapped on a 70m to get down. |
||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams - with zachary vertrees | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wasted a bit of energy getting bogged down at the start but managed to sort it in the end and settled down into the climbing without having any real worries about gear ..
Stuck it out to the end for the OS...
Prob only 35 m as yet again we simul-rapped on a 70m to get down. |
||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado - with zachary vertrees | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Prob best as 1 pitch which is how we did it. Prob only 35m as we simul-rapped back down easily on a 70m rope.
|
||||||
Sat 19th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Greater Carne Creek | ||||||
18 20 | ★ Crack 2 (Double Standard and Vested Interests) - with Macciza a.k.a. Macca | 50m | ★ Good | |||
Rapped down line from tree at top on a 60m lead line. Rope-soloed out in dodgy approach shoes with a rest (to dry retch, due to heat and cordial), didn't seem to bad, just a bit physical but you get that on chimneys...
Single rack to #2 at most prob, plus wires should be fine, maybe double small cams if worried ... probably best as single pitch, with some long runners... 'Cleaned' a few loose bits accidentally, will be back for the tick... and a few others that I bouldered the starts of .... |
||||||
Mon 14th Jan 2019 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | ||||||
23 | ★★ Dont spare the horses - with Zac | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fine technical slabbing... with a nice finish ... then continue up Home James...
|
||||||
20 | ★★★ Home James - with Zac | 30m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Quite nice, great fun... after doing the pitch below as we rapped a bit too far ... all good ...
|
But the start is absolutely nails… really difficult somewhat tenuous slightly highballish boulder problem before things settle down a bit… top is easier but still able to fall off I guess …