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Ascents in Oceania as trad by gaetan

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 250 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
7 Diapason P1 - with Mona
1 7 20 Trad
Trad 20m Very Good
Not sure I had done it before

 
Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
14 D Minor - with Mona Trad 35m
Fun route, first climbed years ago as beginner trad leader.

 
Thu 25th Jun 2020 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
18 Morgul Khan - with Chris Harper, HIllary Trad 40m Very Good
My feet got tired, not used to standing on small feet after a few month in lock down. Great climbing engaging at times

 
Fri 19th Jun 2020 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
18 The Hard Ears - with Chris Harper, hillary Trad 13m
A bit tricky for shorties, but nice crack climbing

 
15 Puppy Love - with Chris Harper Trad 35m
Thu 18th Jun 2020 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
19 Acapulco Gold - with Chris Harper, Hillary Trad 10m Very Good
Really nice fiery crack, shame it's a bit short. I believe I top roped this one years ago.

 
Thu 18th Jun 2020 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
13 Mason's Apron - with Chris Harper, Hillary Trad 24m Good
Nice little adventure

 
17 The Wilderness - with Chris Harper, Hillary Trad 30m Good
Some nice climbing on the headwall, committing on lead but it's all there

 
17 Edgell Gerber Memorial Flake Climb - with Chris Harper, Hillary Trad 30m Very Good
Nice warm up, awkward start

 
19 Morgul Can't - with Chris Harper, Hillary Trad 40m Very Good
Any shorter and I probably wouldn't be able to the move after the flake. Nice and sustain.

 
Wed 17th Jun 2020 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
20 Mind Games - with Chris Harper, Hillary Trad 25m Good
Got pumped on the jugs ... Nice little climb

 
11 Pedro - with Chris Harper Trad 36m Very Good
nice 3d climbing

 
15 Beautiful Possibilities - with Chris Harper Trad 30m Very Good
15 Beautiful Possibilities - with Chris Harper Trad 30m Very Good
Thu 4th Jun 2020 - Mt Alexander
Dog Rocks
15 Sporran Trad 10m
Not sure if side of the cracks are in, but climbed it using cracks as side pull , no jamming

 
12 Rover - with tom Trad 10m Good
14 Fido Trad 10m Good
Tue 5th Nov 2019 - Arapiles
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
18 The Rack - with tom Trad 13m Classic
Slipped of the top jam a move of the jug ... I blame the humidity

 
Sun 3rd Nov 2019 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully
16 Sheer Ecstasy - with tom Trad 20m Good
Nice line

 
Sun 3rd Nov 2019 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites
18 Huey Trad 16m Very Good
Such a cool line

 
Sun 3rd Nov 2019 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area
13 Rush of Blood - with tom Trad 18m Very Good
17 The Creesed Palm - with tom Trad 14m
Exiting start till you can get established in the corner, followed by atmospheric move on the arete. Suspect sounding block just before the top, avoid putting gear behind!

 
Sat 2nd Nov 2019 - Arapiles
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
14 Nero - with tom Trad 13m Good
16 Crucifixion - with tom Trad 12m Good
Call it pink point as the gear until the wide crack was in. Got some use of my #4 cam.

 
20 Christian Crack Trad 13m Classic
Feel like I climbed it in much better style than last time.

 
Wed 30th Oct 2019 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
16 Blind Justice - with Tom Mixed trad 40m, 5 Good
Mon 18th Mar 2019 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
16 Scylla - with Tom Trad 15m Good
Always though this was 16

 
Sun 17th Mar 2019 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
19 Judgement Day - with thara, Tom Mixed trad 67m, 1 Classic
A good exercise in rope management for a party of 3! Was more mentally challenging than technically difficult. Awesome little adventure.

 
Sun 17th Mar 2019 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face
20 Dazed and Confused - with thara, Tom Trad 20m Very Good
Nice face climbing

 
Sat 16th Mar 2019 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
16 Saracen - with Tom Trad 110m Very Good
Shame the first pitch is a bit meh in sections. Nice outing in the shade.

 
Sat 16th Mar 2019 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
18 I'm A Little Asteroid - with Tom Trad 25m Very Good
As good as I remembered

 
Sat 16th Mar 2019 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork
18 King Rat - with Tom Trad 20m Classic
A bit of an alzeimer onsight, I did second it years ago.

 
Sun 10th Mar 2019 - Arapiles
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
25 Henry Bolte - with thara Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
Warming up

 
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Arapiles
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
25 Henry Bolte - with thara Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
Cheking out the moves, and the top out

 
25 Henry Bolte - with thara Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
High point, the reachy move at 3rd bolt will likely be the redpoint crux

 
25 Henry Bolte - with thara Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
Last go of the day, trying to refine the sequence around the small crimp

 
Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
17 Poxbow Trad 30m Good
Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Sun 18th Mar 2018 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
18 Aardvark - with Molly Trad 18m Very Good
Nice little route

 
Sun 18th Mar 2018 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
19 Tannin - with Molly Trad 35m Mega Classic
Such a great climb !

 
Sun 18th Mar 2018 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
19 Morfydd Trad 30m Classic
Probably the third time I second this one.

 
Sun 18th Mar 2018 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
13 Horn Piece - with Molly Trad 33m Very Good
Apparently I had never lead this one.

 
Sat 17th Mar 2018 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
20 Electric Warrior - with Molly Trad 30m Very Good
Getting of the ground is easier than it looks. Great climb, good pro. Some moving rock in the middle.

 
17 Mari - with Molly Trad 35m Classic
Full value at 17

 
Sat 9th Sep 2017 - Victoria Range
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag
23 Pocket Full of Dreams - with thara Mixed trad 25m, 2 Very Good
Took me a couple of tries to do the start.

 
Sun 11th Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Windjammer Wall
24 Mutiny On The Bounty Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
Couldn't do the first move again, did clean after pulling past first move.

 
Sun 4th Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Windjammer Wall
21 Talk of Mad Women Mixed trad 25m, 2 Very Good
To clean the gear, nice tricky slab move at the start.

 
24 Mutiny On The Bounty - with gaetan Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
Did all the move, harder for short people. A #3 camalot or equivalent works well if you don't have #4.

 
Sat 27th May 2017 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
17 Spellbinder - with Rodney Polkinghorne Trad 27m Good
A bit of burl required

 
Sat 27th May 2017 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully
16 Arts Part-time - with Rodney Polkinghorne Trad 16m
I think that's what we did

 
Sat 27th May 2017 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites
18 Huey - with Rodney Polkinghorne Trad 16m Very Good
Awesome looking line, climb easier than it looks.

 
Sat 27th May 2017 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
22 White Heat - with Rodney Polkinghorne Trad 20m Very Good
Jamming definitely helps. Went down quickly once I had the moves figured out.

 
22 White Heat - with Rodney Polkinghorne Trad 20m Very Good
Dog my way up to put the gear in and workout the move

 
Mon 22nd May 2017 - The You Yangs
Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area
16 Silver Knight Trad 15m
Sat 13th May 2017 - The You Yangs
Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area
17 Asylum for the Insane Mixed trad 22m, 3 Good
Sun 26th Mar 2017 - Bundaleer Area
Bundaleer
12 Scarab Mixed trad 59m, 1 Very Good
21 Pathos Trad 28m Classic
Pumped out at the end of the crux with the jug in sight. I was feeling solid till there.

 
Sat 25th Mar 2017 - Bundaleer Area
Bundaleer
16 Basilisk Direct Finish Trad 50m Classic
Such an outrageous climb. And of course I got to lead the roof pitch

 
20 Blimp Mixed trad 25m, 1 Classic
Ended being stupidly pumped at the top before the traverse. Really Nice corner.

 
Mon 13th Mar 2017 - Victoria Range
Harrop Track Ruined Castle
18 Tiger Mitres Central Organ - with Chris Harper Trad 20m Average
Felt hard for 18, probably easier for taller people

 
Sun 12th Mar 2017 - Victoria Range
Harrop Track Gilham's Crags - Southside Shady Gully
19 Slap and Tickie - with Chris Harper Trad 18m Good
maybe 20, felt hard for 19 but I was climbing in approach shoes. Maybe easier for taller people

 
Sun 12th Mar 2017 - Victoria Range
Harrop Track Gilham's Crags - Southside Smoke Wall
18 A Burnt Out Case - with Chris Harper Trad 25m Good
Sun 29th Jan 2017 - South-Eastern Grampians
Seven Dials Area Barbican Wall
20 Stormbringer-Rapier Combo - with Sean Ladiges Trad 48m Very Good
Loose block at the start, we tip toed around the left to get established on the Stormbringer crack. Lead the second pitch, awesome corner crack. Watch out for a loose looking block when exiting the steep first part of the second pitch. Last pitch is a bit committing on lead but short and powerful. We added some cord to the rap tree. Bring some extra sling/cord for the rap, as the existing tat is old and shouldn't be trusted.

 
Sat 28th Jan 2017 - South-Eastern Grampians
Seven Dials Area Barbican Rocks
19 All at Sea - with Sean Ladiges Trad 35m Average
Yoyo style again. The gear around the crux is small and fiddly. Probably fine if you are feeling strong. Felt a bit sandbagged, but maybe it's because that was the last climb of the day. Bring some sling/cord for rapping of tree.

 
20 The Lonely Sea - with sean Trad 50m Classic
Avoid yanking on the chalked (??) loose block in the middle of the first pitch. Great second pitch, did it yoyo style. Lead it to the top after Sean handed me the lead. Tricky wide section. Rap anchor is on the left when topping out.

 
18 And a Bottle of Rum - with Sean Ladiges
1 18
2
3
Trad 93m Good
Only did the first pitch, rapped of 2 nuts from the ledge below the second pitch. Nice feature, some loose rock in places. A few committing move, but nothing too hard

 
Mon 5th Sep 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
22 In Lemon Butter - with Sean Ladiges, Molly Trad 15m Very Good
Climb it yo yo style after Sean tried the start. Sweated of the ledge and took a good flight, a bit harder that what I remembered

 
Sun 4th Sep 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
19 Quisling - with Sean Ladiges Trad 30m Good
Warm up, Good old arapiles weirdness, left a bit of skin on the slippery jams

 
22 Squeakeasy - with Molly Trad 30m Classic
Put up a good fight put I got too pumped. Sustained !!

 
Sat 3rd Sep 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
19 19 R Green Shirt - with Molly, Sean Ladiges Trad 25m Good
The finish looks unlikely but it's all there. I don't remember seeing a loose flake let alone placing an rp ??

 
Sun 31st Jul 2016 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area New Image Wall
22 Continuum - with Chris Harper Trad 25m Very Good
Just enough gear to keep you sane. Interesting crux move, probably easier if you are tall. Be gentle climbing the rooflet, everything feels loose.

 
Sun 31st Jul 2016 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
21 Chinese Algebra - with Chris Harper Trad 48m Classic
alzeimer onsight, but I'll call it a flash. Awesome climbing, the crux still felt hard I need to relax more on the hard bits.

 
20 Wasp - with Chris Harper Trad 30m Classic
went a lot smoother on second. Not as hard as I remembered. Awesome climbing.

 
Sat 30th Jul 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall
22 Straw Dogs - with Chris Harper Trad 11m Very Good
nice technical bottom, to a pumpy top.

 
22 Hellspite - with Chris Harper Trad 12m Very Good
Fell at the tricky crux. Desperately clawed my way to the top after figuring out the moves, seems to lack feet.

 
Sat 30th Jul 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
18 Howling Wolf - with Chris Harper Trad 28m Very Good
Nice face climbing, to an easy but run out top

 
18 Jackal - with Chris Harper Trad 25m Good
Nice variety of jam, the wide section is easier than it looks. The fun is over quickly though

 
Sat 30th Jul 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall
18 The Stoat Steps Out Trad 8m Very Good
Nice warm up, but climbed poorly

 
Sat 7th May 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - South
25 Mr. Joshua Pitch 1 - with Julian Goad, Chris Harper Mixed trad 28m, 8 Classic
Back up to work the move.Got a new beta for the first crux. Got insanely pumped linking the crux to the rest. Worked the move for the upper bit. Need more fitness

 
25 Mr. Joshua Pitch 1 - with Julian Goad, Chris Harper Mixed trad 28m, 8 Classic
Went up to put the gear on, couldn't remember half of the move ...

 
Wed 27th Apr 2016 - Mount Buffalo
The Hump Area The Hump
22 The Icing On The Cake - with Mattyj
1 22
2 21
Mixed trad 75m, 9 Very Good
Steep slab, desperate at time but with some nice holds towards the top. Started where it branches of initiation, as we had both done initiation before. Managed to second the 2nd pitch clean somehow ! It's quite run out and would be better with a couple extra carrot.

 
Sun 24th Apr 2016 - Mount Buffalo
The Hump Area The Hump
20 Cows with Guns - with Chris Harper, Mattyj Mixed trad 50m, 7 Good
Nice slabbing on slightly featured wall.

 
19 Run free with the buffalo - with Chris Harper, Mattyj Mixed trad 30m, 6 Good
Another nicely protected slab. 30m to double carrot belay

 
19 Chickens in Choppers - with Chris Harper, Mattyj Mixed trad 30m, 7 Good
Nice protected slab, route is 30m to the double carrot belay.

 
Sun 22nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
18 Kincaid Trad 20m Good
Sun 22nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
15 16 Arab Trad 110m Average
Nice outing to finish the week-end.

 
Sat 21st Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
23 Lunatic Mixed trad 25m, 3 Very Good
Tricky committing start. The rest is really enjoyable, pumpy finish on jugs.

 
21 Yesterday's Rooster Mixed trad 22m, 2 Good
alzheimer onsight, tricky classic arapiles crux. Good to work on arête climbing which I am not good at.

 
23 Fever Pitch Mixed trad 30m, 2 Classic
The top is thin and keeps coming at you. Managed to keep it together and pull all the move. Great pitch in an awesome location. One to try on lead now.

 
Sat 21st Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress
21 Running on Empty Trad 20m Good
A long-ish move at the start but otherwise a really nice route

 
Sat 21st Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
18 Turquoise Trad 25m Good
Sat 3rd Oct 2015 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - South
25 Mr Joshua (Mr Joshua P1)
1 25
Mixed trad 50m, 12 Classic
went up to work the move

 
25 Mr Joshua (Mr Joshua P1)
1 25
Mixed trad 50m, 12 Classic
Link up to the first crux but powered out. Refined my beta for the upper part and the upper crux

 
Fri 2nd Oct 2015 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - South
25 Mr Joshua
1 25
Mixed trad 50m, 12 Classic
With the gear in, dog my way up to try the move. The lower crux felt fine once I found a good beta. The upper crux feels almost harder, I can see it being an issue on the redpoint.

 
25 Mr Joshua
1 25
Mixed trad 50m, 12 Classic
Went up with the intend of putting the gear and try the moves. Got shut down by the crux.

 
Sun 6th Sep 2015 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
10 D Major Trad 50m Classic
Still a really fun climb even after 3 or 4 times on it.

 
Sat 5th Sep 2015 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
18 Jens roof Mixed trad 30m, 1 Average
Fun move in the roof but the rest is pretty average

 
19 Tannin Trad 35m Mega Classic
Really nice climbing and good gear all the way. Nice way to get back on the lead after the winter break

 
Sat 5th Sep 2015 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
13 Horn Piece Trad 33m Very Good
Fri 15th May 2015 - Victoria Range
Eureka Area Eureka Towers
22 Return to Gariwerd - with Chris Harper
1 22
Trad 35m Classic
Awesome climb ! Got a bit spooked by some fiddly gear, but still went up it in questionable style . One to come back to.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 250 ascents.

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