Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 26th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Lost World Area Lost World | ||||||
23 | Naked Flame | 18m | ★ Good | |||
We came down to consider rebolting with anchors-feels sandbagged at 23 without bridging across chimney. Came to no decision. Weirdly it was chalked up
|
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Resurrection Shuffle | 30m | ★ Good | |||
The first half was fine, but a crack that stays wide blue for ever in the second half is my anti style and I’m not that interested in embracing the pain.
|
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Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★ Jumping Jack Russells | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Did top section clean from below roof, but rained off after this.
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Bullet Hole Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Mental Fatigue Direct Start | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Time to bail, getting increasingly hot and slippery. Greased off where it joins the regular route
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Tue 21st Nov 2023 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Black Leg Miner | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Just the back half via alt start into cave and onwards. Did it clean to last bolt second go, but hadn’t refreshed memory as to the last moves on first go due to heinous rope drag so fell victim to the Booladelah factor. Nice to be back here, but the rock is so sharp!
|
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Military Wall | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ All Things Considered | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Last climb at RRG this trip, wish we had got on this earlier. One go only to clean. Got to half way, had rest, all moves quite ok
|
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Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Gallery | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Gold Rush | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Aussie Ryans draws were on so I thought I would have one more go and clean the, for him-came off above last bolt again.
|
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Gallery | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Gold Rush — 2 attempts | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Almost want to subtract a star for the wet start. Came off at final bolt first go and after final bolt second go because I had failed to work out any pumped beta. Didn’t really rest and went through. Fun.
|
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Snozzberries Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Hip To The Jive | 20m, 7 | ||||
One sit on last bolt on second go. Fell off first go with heel toe cam in for an exciting fall. Excessive chalk and very pumpy but good power endurance training. After 2 weeks at the RRG I might be ready to climb here!
|
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Military Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Minumum Creep | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One fall at second last bolt where the massive holds disappear and there’s desperate chalk smears on crap holds. Got back on and went to end. The overhanging laybacking 5.9 dihedral was harder- tore my palm.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Blocks Area | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Disturbance — 2 attempts | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two goes, on lead, then top rope. Very cruxy, major issue getting to first decentpod with the negative 9 cm ape factor my right arm has. Not sure it’s worth further time. Nice line though.
|
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | Average | |||
Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.
|
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Wed 27th Sep 2023 - Discoteca | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Ali shuffle | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Got on this as the sun hit. Got to second last bolt on onsight. Slimpers at crux felt awful by then. Battled to anchors.
|
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Acquafraggia | ||||||
La Mezzera | ||||||
7a | ★★ Rufus | |||||
Hadnt learnt my lesson about the sun and baked. Nice from flake up but no idea how to establish. Would make a nice grade 25 project at home.
|
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | ||||||
Brattberget | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Trusa på utsida — 2 attempts | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had trouble around the fourth bolt, fingers and overhung, shame it’s so far from home!
|
||||||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Brattberget | ||||||
Stora väggen | ||||||
6c | ★★ Till Malin | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
So hot in the sun, with high humidity. Took a while to do the crux sequence otherwise clean. Probably won’t be back, but what a nice gneiss crag
|
||||||
Tue 27th Jun 2023 - Umina | ||||||
Lake View | ||||||
24 | ★★ Mental Pinch — 2 attempts | 11m | ★ Good | |||
The mantle is nice, the start nails if slot is out of reach and the end pretty hard. Gives me something to come back for.
|
||||||
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag The Balconies | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★ Jane | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Still no luck on this crimpy beast. My negative ape factor is obvious on the bottom big move, I’m 5 cm short. Having to dyno will add a few grades. Feels at least 24 regardless going from there.
|
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Mon 13th Feb 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Vamp Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★★ No Standing | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thanks to whomever put in the new anchors since I was last here. This I think is my favourite route in the gorge. Got here a bit late, and it was damn hot, so had a single go to reacquaint myself, with one slip on the lower part, then time to go packrafting the Gorge!
|
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Shady Side Dammit Area | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Dammit — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well the start and end were good, suspect some rope assistance through the low crux and the upper one needed more work. Spent some time brushing someone else’s excessive chalk and tick marks- lest anyone think it was us, but it needs a good shower to clean it off. Will have to get fitter and return
|
||||||
Thu 2nd Feb 2023 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★ Jumping Jack Russells — 2 attempts | 15m | ★ Good | |||
2 goes, unlocked a bit of beta, got rained off
|
||||||
Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Skidrow Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★ Short and Sweet | 8m | Average | |||
Painful and not appealing
|
||||||
27 | Experimental Method — 2 attempts | 10m, 3 | ||||
Hadn’t really looked at guide. Great moves to a literal nails crux but I think I could do it, though I was doing a karate kick to the right after matching on the thin rail. Sticking the thin rail was the only move I didn’t do.
|
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Thu 12th Jan 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
The Back End Northern Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Zorro | 95m, 26 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got to half way mantle clean and almost got through it it, then easy to the crimp crux and faded on the top third again.
|
||||||
Wed 21st Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Alive 'n' Kicking | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unfortunately the sun had hit the wall by the time I got here and could see not much due to glare and it got rapidly hot. Need to come back in shade.
|
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Sat 17th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Heathcliff | ||||||
23 | ★★ How Far We Have Fallen | 33m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 weeks laying on the couch has not helped my endurance.
|
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Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Tetragrammaton Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Tetragrammaton | 40m | ||||
First pitch clean, second pitch found the lower bit fine but spat off a metre from the top when it’s way too wide for my fists
|
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Wed 23rd Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | ||||||
25 | Dislocator Beta | 12m | ||||
Tried this last time I was here, better than it looks
|
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Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Shimmy Sheister Buttress | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★★ Waiting for Bobbo — 2 attempts - with David Gray | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried leading but stumped at third bolt. Despite trying every permutation, including as pictured in the guidebook I could not get the reach to the key hold. Every other move done, though often with twice as many moves as Dave needed, including a technical start for the short! Great name.
|
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Sat 12th Nov 2022 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★★ Bloodhound | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still finding this finger destroying
|
||||||
24 | ★ Jumping Jack Russells | 15m | ||||
Short but some good movement. Too hot in the sun to try again
|
||||||
Thu 3rd Nov 2022 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
26 ~24 | ★★ Tour de France | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Have to do double the moves at the start cf Dave, but it’s still easier than the 24 to the left. The rest didn’t feel much harder than the 24 either, but not sure I trust the bolts. A rebolt would be good.
|
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Mon 19th Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Hat Hill Crag | ||||||
23 | ★★ Swallow the Fly | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell off 3 moves from the anchor, should have omitted clipping last bolt that was a bit of a diversion for me. Fell back to the hands free kneebar and went to finish from there
|
||||||
Thu 8th Sep 2022 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
The Fish Bowl | ||||||
23 | ★★ Bed Swerver | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
3 laps, really sharp on the fingers. Totally forgotten the crux move sequence, but it’s been a decade. Pleasant jugging to there
|
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Wed 7th Sep 2022 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
The Back End Northern Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Guardian Angel | 45m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
All clean with lots of microbeta remembered- except one move of crux sequence.
|
||||||
23 | ★★★ Fat Head | 60m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed out. Fell off move to arete and ended back at starting ledge.
|
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Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
The Back End Northern Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Guardian Angel | 45m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Reacquainting myself with this beauty. Forgotten how I did the crux, the rest slowly came back to me.
|
||||||
23 | ★★★ Fat Head | 60m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Piked at lateral dyno but did the rest.
|
||||||
Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Dora Pinnacles Main Pinnacles | ||||||
21 | ★★ Rabies | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Totally blue sized jams- except for the chicken wing section. Not sure I will ever get this
|
||||||
Thu 18th Aug 2022 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
The Back End Northern Wall | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Zorro
1
26
95m
2
3
24
25m
| 120m, 26 | ★★★ Classic | |||
P3 only. Not sure if it’s the morning weeding or just decrepitude, but did quite abysmally. Had a police boat zip in to investigate for some reason. Will be falcon closure time soon, but no problems today.
|
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Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
The Fish Bowl | ||||||
24 | ★ Cynical Bass | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Not much new climbing ( so I don’t know why I fell off) however there appears to be a broken crimp at the second bolt making life more difficult
|
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Wed 10th Aug 2022 - Kwiamble National Park | ||||||
MacIntyre Falls Falls Walls Wilde Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Wilde slab | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did the bottom bouldery bit and all the sequences on the slab, but a few slips. Need to be in the shade
|
||||||
25 | Wilde seam | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Still shedding little flakes. Razors on the fingers
|
||||||
Wed 10th Aug 2022 - Kwiamble National Park | ||||||
MacIntyre Falls Falls Walls Falls River Left | ||||||
23 | ★★ Clean Slate | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Need to try again. Could be a bold DWS, no bolts to be put on these walls
|
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Fri 8th Jul 2022 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Beehive Area | ||||||
23 | ★ The Window Cleaner | 14m | Average | |||
2 goes, one sit second go when I forgot the sequence. Painful, really needs anchors
|
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Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Joll's Bridge | ||||||
Lower cliffline | ||||||
25 | ★★ Channel Bill Cuckoo | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Reacquainting myself with the two finger pocket. Rest of it fine.
|
||||||
Wed 22nd Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
Easy Meat direct start | 18m, 6 | |||||
A half baked attempt, it’s very friable, just do the original
|
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes | ||||||
21 | ★★ No Support for the Monarchy | 15m, 5 | ||||
The bolts were out, drill dust everywhere, I was meant to be evaluating new bolt positions but it was too crozzly to be sure.
|
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
24 | ★ Speak Easy | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
MF answer to a campus board. A little bit of rope assistance on the crux move, but quite happy with my crimping today
|
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23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One brief foot misstep, felt pretty good otherwise. The usual brown tree snake just below anchors. It didn’t move.
|
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Tue 14th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
26 | ★ Jacob's Ladder | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
I’m still keen on a right hand start. Super bouldery funky moves I can barely do, and the start feels harder than 26
|
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Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Treatment Plant | ||||||
Plant 1, The Sunny Side | ||||||
24 | ★★ Lock It In | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The climb briefly dried, then the tide started coming back in and it got drenched again
|
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Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Babylon Areas Occupied Territories First Canyon | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Axis of Evil | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 shots today. More grating on finger skin than I recall. Knee pads next time 3 knee bars. Middle crux match, r foot up, right hand side pull, left hand unchalked dimple then slipper, forget about chalked holds to left then up to above bolt. Top crux commitment!
|
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Vine Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Spank The Donkey | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just missing the spanking move, couldn’t stick despite todays excellent friction. One previous go about a decade ago before the 2 extra bolts added probably left me scarred.
|
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Thu 2nd Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Butterfly Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Butterfly Wall Direct | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 laps, getting up into undercling is my main problem, the rest is ok, but a few other spots you could fall. Will have to prioritise it this year
|
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Wed 25th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A good way to exhaust ourselves before/ as the rain hit with a couple of runs on this. Shame about the ledges.
|
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Sun 22nd May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Gah. Came off at end of undercling section. Definitely not the first to do that. I did second this clean about 12 years ago, but I had forgotten everything…
|
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Sat 14th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge | ||||||
23 | ★ Just Out of Habit | 20m | ★ Good | |||
One sit. The route finding isn’t obvious. We went right then up then left then right! Double ropes would be useful
|
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Mon 9th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
24 | ★★ Nose Job | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Another reacquainting mission. One low percentage move is my main problem.
|
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Sun 8th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
24 | ★★ Horrorscope | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Reacquainting myself with this. I find it has some long moves
|
||||||
Wed 27th Apr 2022 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★★ Bloodhound | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting to 4 th bolt, but the move to the alcove is hard. Then fine to top.
|
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Main Face | ||||||
23 | ★★ Insecurity | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
P2 only. Did all the moves, but the thin start trashed my hands and toes in the sun. Feels more 24 than 23 with lots of micro beta needed to reach the holds. The top is also good.
|
||||||
Wed 20th Apr 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag The Balconies | ||||||
23 | ★ Jane | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Had a quick go on our way out in the twilight. Pretty reachy in 3 spots and getting too freezing to dyno for crimps. I don’t like Stephenson 23s!
|
||||||
Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
24 | ★ Les Grands Ensembles | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The start is impossible direct anywhere near the grade, I ended up doing the start of the 26, came off halfway between the second last and last bolt where it looks like numerous flakes have disappeared feeling I had already done enough for the grade! And whats with the huge runout at the crux?
|
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Mon 11th Apr 2022 - Fruehauf | ||||||
25 | ★ Anaphalaxis Hobbit Varient | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Pretty much done the fingery start, but the top is still perplexing. I just can’t push up into the roof or reach the crimp over it. Too cold to feel properly warmed up
|
||||||
Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Lost World Area Lost World | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Savage Journey | 30m | ★ Good | |||
More aid for the top half. Long arms and a bigger fist would help.
|
||||||
Fri 1st Apr 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Offal Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Offal | 15m | ★ Good | |||
The offwidth was fine but the finger crack ate my finger and wouldn’t let go. I was afraid I was about to lose it!
|
||||||
Mon 14th Mar 2022 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Campsite Buttress & Pinnacle | ||||||
25 | ★★ Rain Bom | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I just couldn’t make Dave’s beta work, though he used mine! A good bouldery problem but the move into the upper left hand crack was very frustrating for me.
|
||||||
Tue 1st Mar 2022 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
The Docks Paradise Prow | ||||||
24 | ★★ Jackjumper | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Will have to try again, the move to the arete from flake to enable the throw to the horn is out of reach for me, feeling more 25 for vertically challenged. managed all the other moves, though often a couple of moves to Dave’s one needed. This does seem like it has retro bolted Paradise Prow, which must have been a pretty scary route.
|
||||||
Fri 18th Feb 2022 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★ Sly Dawg | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
Felt like a boulder problem on top of a bolted crack, with lots of razor sharp crimps that broke. Maybe I need to know the secret beta.
|
||||||
Thu 17th Feb 2022 - Fruehauf | ||||||
25 | ★ Anaphalaxis Hobbit Varient | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
I don’t think tall people can appreciate how many points of reachy this whole climb has. It takes about twice as many moves and substantially more energy as the elegant way someone who is 20 cms taller can do it. But trying it will make me fit.
|
||||||
Fri 4th Feb 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Fire Starter | 18m, 9 | ||||
Wet, dirty, and stumped by the long move below permadraw
|
||||||
Sun 26th Dec 2021 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Waterfall Area | ||||||
20 | ★ You are not the bose, I am the bose | 9m, 2 | Average | |||
I was trying too direct / right now that I’ve read the description..
|
||||||
Mon 20th Dec 2021 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | |||||
Another go today. There’s still a 2m section I can’t do. Dave’s beta doesn’t seem to work. He’s done all the moves, but doing it clean is the hard part.
|
||||||
Tue 7th Dec 2021 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★ Legless Miner | 16m | ★ Good | |||
I wish I’d written down my beta for the start. I think I will just get on black leg miner again!
|
||||||
Mon 30th Aug 2021 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Middle Earth | ||||||
25 | ★★ The Enthusiastic Enthusiast | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Having issues getting right foot onto lip pocket. May have to go more direct. Can do the mantle once it’s there
|
||||||
Sun 22nd Aug 2021 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
24 | ★ Podolobium (aciculiferim) (Project) | 13m, 5 | Average | |||
Time to clean up old projects. Sharp on the fingers and a bit contrived, but at least it’s something to do.
|
||||||
Sat 7th Aug 2021 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
20 | ★ Cheap Vendetta | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Super dirty, slipped out and had to brush. Would be a bit tenuous to lead.
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Aug 2021 - Kwiamble National Park | ||||||
MacIntyre Falls Falls Walls Wilde Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Wilde slab | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just a 2m section my shoe rubber wouldn’t stick. Dave did brilliantly.
|
||||||
Fri 30th Jul 2021 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Carrion Comfort | 25m | ★ Good | |||
The Heberdens nodules are making thin cracks tricky. I used to like them. Ended up going up LLL and stepping across when I could finally bridge. Shoulder not happy. Heatstroke. Definitely despairing and feel like carrion feast.
|
||||||
Mon 19th Jul 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
24 | ★★ Shake and Bake | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One to try again a bit earlier in the day when I have regrown skin and don’t have weeping tips.
|
||||||
Sun 27th Jun 2021 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two snakes and one sit, I get through the crux and have problems getting onto slab….should come back and lead it this winter, but the trad placements are a little tricky
|
||||||
Sun 20th Jun 2021 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Waihoo 354 | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Swindled | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very classy route. Surely someone can do it without Batman start. Second go got through the bouldery start and mucked up the head wall despite feeling fresh enough. Used pockets to the left at the start which were full of cobwebs
|
||||||
Sat 12th Jun 2021 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
24 | ★★ Down With His Pants | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
We needed to tire ourselves out quickly, that was the plan, and i have never quite figured this one out. Some super long moves. I solved one, with bunched beta, but my short beta for the second move to the blob on the arete is low percentage
|
||||||
Sun 4th Apr 2021 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
24 | ★★★ In Flagrante Delicto | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I really need to try this more than once every 5 years. By the time I have relearned a short persons crux ( about 3 moves higher than Dave and a sideways Dyno) to arete, my fingers are too sore to try again
|
||||||
Fri 2nd Apr 2021 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Boneyard | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Dopamine | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got to seventh bolt first go then went bolt to bolt with only one section near the finish taking time to sort out.
Second go was abysmal, I was tanked and the sun had come out.
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Mon 29th Mar 2021 - Sisters Beach | ||||||
Corruption Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ The Crimson Tipped Crumpet Plunger | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Feel like I haven’t crimped for 8 weeks on this. ( too many cracks and slabs). Two falls was the best effort in 3 goes.
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Mon 8th Feb 2021 - Sand River | ||||||
The Panopticon Panopticon Central | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Fine Line | 17m, 10 | ||||
Missed good part of fissure at crux. Fell off. Went straight to top.
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Tue 12th Jan 2021 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Waterfall Area | ||||||
21 | ★ Ghost of Sparta | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Will have to try when it’s not so humid, and take a brush. Very slippery
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Sun 20th Dec 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ In Phase | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun.must come back and lead it.
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Wed 16th Dec 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
24 | ★★ Nose Job Direct Start | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I still find this quite hard. The pinches are wide and some long dead points.
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Wed 4th Nov 2020 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Phoenix Rising (Pro VW) | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Unlocked more beta that gets me to the rooflet more consistently and fresher. Psyched.
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Tue 3rd Nov 2020 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Phoenix Rising (Pro VW) | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Couple more goes. Getting the 25 start now every time. Refining beta in the middle. Trying not to pump out at the end.
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Tue 20th Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Dragon's Egg | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell off after last bolt. Second warm up ( was aiming to put some long draws on NIB.
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25 | ★★ Ness is Best | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Thought to reacquaint myself with this but it’s so painful on the fingers, I didn’t try that hard
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Mon 19th Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Grape Hour | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty nice movement, the rock felt brutal on my hands though, so only 1 go putting draws on, then cleaned. Linked a few sections, and found a few rests. Wish it was closer to home...
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Mon 14th Sep 2020 - Joll's Bridge | ||||||
Lower cliffline | ||||||
25 | ★★ Larry | 7m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Like being at the bouldering gym
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Sun 30th Aug 2020 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Fieg's Overhang Fiegs Right Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Bugs Bunny | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I think the short person beta will be to jump, I think the sneaky crimp I used in past times has gone.
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Tue 25th Aug 2020 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
The Fish Bowl | ||||||
25 | ★★ Flatlander | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Had forgotten all about this. A bit butter-knife-ish.
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Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Black Wall Major | ||||||
25 | ★★ Sarah Fieg (unknown name) | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Too much jamming and not enough crimping in the last month.
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