Ascents in World as Clean by John Pitcairn

Fine lead from AJ. Balancy getting the gear out.

Warmup? Haha.

Following an early morning slog back up the gully to D Major top to look for the forgotten hex, then extended search for its bootiers around camp. Jonno linked both pitches. Arvo trip into Nati for gas bottle swap.

Jonno led it all in one pitch.

Had led before as a DHMK linkup. Bloody great jamming and bridging. Only let down by a sandy unprotected traverse in and loose topout. Started up GOTG to avoid the grot, long sling on the DHMK anchor and the bolt before it. We sent a few missiles down. Fixed up the core shot GOTG hand line then rapped down that.

Up for a 3-fairy all day cleaning session on this, Natural Selection and Safety In Numbers. Much cleaner now.

Thanks to Aidan for the clean! The closest thing to quarry climbing you'll get here. The big midway flake is now starting to hinge outward at its midpoint, it needs to be removed soon.

Nice line, could use a brush.

Snuck in before the sun started cooking the wall.

The Angela move for the win. Don't stuff yourself in.

Finally ... some Euro twatbag decided it was OK to throw their rope down without asking when G reached the anchor, rap past me seconding and then start to pull the ropes. If you don't like being sworn at don't be such a massive dickhead. And pad your bloody hammock cord.

Quite the onsight fight for AJ. An epic 2 minute bout of swearing and gibbering under the roof could only be answered by "roger that". The finish through the bulge was taken.

I just wanted to lie down in camp. Valiant attempt by AJ with a few falls, attentive belaying required. Surprised to get a clean second.

Warmup. Belayed from bottom of corner. Easy jamming over all too quickly, then some monkey business getting gear out under the roof. When did the rap chains go in? And why?

AJ exorcises a demon with audience of ShiChang and Vasily (more interested in the rock than the climbing). It's OK.

Good lead from AJ. Start is committing but we both did it differently. Good piece after the crank. I do wonder if the FA traversed in from left, which would make the original 14 about right.

Really nice. Sling is not insecure if you can tie a good slip knot. There is also a small less good offset after it.

Not actually as good as it looks. Soloed up to the corner crack. Careful, cams can walk in. Rapped off like sensible people, just barely down on a 60.

Overnighting at Green Lake much better than rolling in at 4am. Hard to believe AJ has never led this.

Always good. Still pretty clean, present me thanks past me.

Quite a change in character after Korimako...

Final day, warming up, find shade, get something done to salvage the trip. Warmup, feels hard for 15.

Finally, a nice day! Got a bit off route to the Siren P1 ledge, then wound up belaying a bit high on the arete. P4 is the business. Watched a general military training clusterfuck in progress on and above Hot Flap. Somebody is gonna die if they keep that shit up.

Not the best choice of warmup JH. Awkward to clean and stay on too. We stupidly rapped from above Christian Crack, better to walk through to the other rap anchor.

A step up from JH. No stars for the name. Must lead it sometime, hopefully after it has been renamed.

JH arrives to more rain and plentiful mosquitos, with mumblings about working up slowly. Drizzle, greasy rock, quite a stiff move getting onto the low ledge/pinnacle thing.

Rain stopped long enough to run up something late afternoon. I have no memory of this from my first trip 11 years ago. Bottom pitch is trivial, top pitch is good. The ferns in King Rat Gully are extremely well watered and above head height.

A reasonable day but Brolga still a waterfall. Up this instead. Not bad. Two river crossings en route, the black scunge of a Smeagol finish was not at all appealing.

Weather reasonable but inherited Jonno's cold, belay neck headache, took most of the day off. Good lead from Grant.

P5 for exit. A touch more rain and wait, a near solo from Grant, more rain at topout, quite a lot of wind, a long slippery walk down.

This is a weather report, not a climbing log. Another shifty looking day but bugger it, we're on. P1 only for access. Waited out a couple of showers at the base. A small stream crossing en route and some wet stuff on the right of the chimney.

Surprisingly got another one in.

Rainy morning then cleared just enough. Wound up here after finding a school group swarming at Bushrangers. Wouldn't bother doing it again.

A rainy looking day indeed but the crew had arrived and were itchy for a go. P3 quite nice in just a few spots of rain, then it started in seriously toward the finish of P4. Back to Nati for a day and a half of cabin fever and gear drying.

Hot sunny morning, but getting tired and clumsy. Had to step daintily through rivulets at the P1 crux, linked into P2, dropped the giga jul at the belay, from there on it was 2 munters for belaying on doubles - easier than you'd think. Then dropped one of Geoff's biners later. Rapped off on a munter with extreme rope twist mess, really hard pull, found the biner on the trail but not the giga jul. Took the afternoon off to avoid cockup escalation, and a full rest day following and moved camp again.

On 2 ropes. Jake veered off route left and up the overlap via small strenuous corner crack, then up and back right all the way to the edge of the Oasis. Felt about 15-16 to follow, and there can't have been much rope left. Finished up the chimney at top. Rapped off. Jake departed, then moved camp in the arvo.

Warmer day finally and joined by Mishka. Didn't place much gear on 1st pitch, and the 3rd is nothing like I remember it every damn time. Very fun.