Ascents as Clean as trad by davedave

good enough.

p1, cleaning after JDs awesome lead, heady laybacking crux. Finger didn't seem to mind

last pitch middle bolted into gear finish.

Feels much more placid on the blunt end in approachies. Definately recommend the ~#1 cam slot out left rather than the nut behind marginal flake at the steepness.

P1 - usual slabbing with spaced bolts/gear essentially P1 of Juliet, to right of the two DBB on the slab.

P2 - out left and up following spaced bolts supplemented by gear through steepness, followed by some more lower angle climbing with less gear than would be ideal.

Felt easier than AMJ, but was seconding so hard to say. grAId calls this 16/17.

The usual mix of average to middling gear in the horizontal wander of the first pitch to the cave (many carrot inc. stainless GIMB with fixed hanger belay anchor) - probably worth keeping seconds low to ease rope mx.

Short second pitch out left of cave past dragons head, modern glue in bolt protected crux and up to top.

Note - accessed via abseil gully - anchor massive non-stainless industrial eye bolt and some non-stainless carrots.

Loose block/flake at 2/3 could prolly go a trundle

Bolt protected crux

Finally actually climbed the route, by which I mean on TR.

Decided to change it up and not wear approachies and fall off. Used as access to P2 flake

yoyo I guess ?? Cleaning up pats 3/4 lead

Piddo day - star chasing

So much funsies

Woop woop, climbs even better then it looks.

Would welcome an explanation of how these climbs managed to score an anchor of about 15 bolts past and present...and it still looks jank. Two well placed stainless glue ins and some cammo chopped bolts anyone ???

First pitch only

Approachies send

Approachies

Warm ups

Second in approachies, was a bit relucant to get back on it but feels like a must for each trip

Resigned myself to a mixed face and crack approach with good results. Will have to lead next time- few large cams, with a 5 and 2 sixes.

Following the hectic 2 pitch, 2 day siege self-yoyo approach by snapgate. Mega classic with a lovely finish !

Snapgate tells me the tree anchor is a bit stuffed, recommends CIT bolted anchors.

Aided up a meter or two to check the gear for snapgates ascents given the routes history, all seemed fine. Beautiful route, awesome climbing.

Paper book gives no stars, it can go get stuffed.

Jam school with sean, felt a bit loose in approachies.

good to have big gear for the opening moves

That move right is wild on lead and seccond.

Quick second before the rain.

Recent rebolt - from upper stance fresh looking U bolts, single rack of cams +120 cm sling for thread.

No stuck cams today

So wild

So good, thin ?fradgile corner leads to glory hands

Needed to lower after hanging to clean gear. The top crack is sooo good

Three star crack, minus 2 for the poorly protected face climbing start.

One of the three Stuck cams has been cleaned.

A no4 at the first chockstone and a no5 for the last move keeps it pg. Superclassic, don't walk past it.

still don't like that low face climbing section, lovely upper.

What a line. Stiff start.

First moves seemed stiff for a book 18, started at tree - seemed a bit stiff.

Much more comfy in approach shoes today..